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CORRESPONDENCE

PALESTINE TOURISTS;

COMPRISING

A SERIES OF LETTERS

aEORGE A. SMITH, LORENZO SNOW, PAUL
A. SCIIETTLER, AND ELIZA R. SNOW,

OIF tjtj^h:.

MOSTLY WRITTEN WHILE TRAVELING IN

EUROPE, ASIA AND AFRICA,

ZJV THE YEAES 1872 and 1873.

Prtnita at tne,De^ertl News. SteuKi- Printing •Fetahiiahmeht

SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH TERRITORY.

1875.

lis
S^7c

INDEX AND CONTENTS

LETTER I .

PAGE.

Instructions— Going to Europe and Asia Minor— Openings for the Gospel —

Palestine to be Dedicated— Return ol the Jews— Fulfilment of Prohecy, 1

LETTER II.

At Washington — Visit to the Departments— The Presidential Election— The

Epizootic— Interview with President Grant— Passports for Europe. 2

LETTER III.

Traveling by Steam— Departure from Salt Lake City— Good By— The Plains—

The Missouri Bridge— Thunderstorm— In a Palace Car— Arrival at Chicago. 4

LETTER IV.

Visiting Relatives at Fountain Green — Sisters of Joseph Smith, the Prophet
—At the Birthplace of Joseph and Hyrum Smith— The Epizootic— Fitch-
burg— At New York. 6

LETTER V .

Riding Five Days and Five Nights— Arrival in New York— Members of the

Company — Missionaries for Europe. 8

LETTERVI.
On the Ocean— Sea-sickness— At Davenport— At BuflTalo— Niagara Falls— The

Railroad Suspension Bridge — Crossing to Canada. 9

LETTER VII.

Nearing Queenstown— Departure from New York— Rain and "Wind at Sea—
Sea-sickness— Headwinds— Smooth Sea and Fair Winds—" Crossing the
Atlantic," a Poem by Miss E. R. Snow. 11

LETTER VIII.

On Terra Firma— Ben Butler— At the St. Nicholas Hotel— West Point— Inter-
view with Officials— A Drive Round Central Park. 15

LETTER IX.

At Liverpool— Visit to the Workhouse, It Covers Nine Acres of Ground— The
Shoemakers' Quarters— Picking Oakum—Paupers do not Like Work— Their
Sleeping Rooms— Apartments of the Female Inmates— Tea and Bread and
Butter— The Laundry — The Childrens' Apartments—" Poor Little For-
saken"— The Hospital— The Dining Room— The Church— Monument to
Agnes Jones— The Vagabonds' Apartment. 18

IG^91-1

IV INDEX AND CONTENTS.

LETTER X,

PAGE.

Crossins the Hudson— Visit to West Point— Trophies of War— Putnam's Fort-
Tete-a-tete with a Student— Information about Palestine— Leave New York. 23

LETTER XI.
On Board the " Minnesota "—First Sight of the Ocean — Arrival in Liverpool-
Dense, Interminable Fog — Leave for London— English Railway Cars— No
Sleeping Cars— English Rural Scenery— Poem, " London," by Miss E. R.
Snow. 24

LETTER XII.
A Conference — Passed Queenstown — Arrival at Liverpool — Scattering of the
Members of the Party— Arrival in London— The Albert Memorial— The
Princess Theatre— Houses of Parliament — Under-ground Railway — Attend
Meetings— George J. Adams and the Holy Land, 28

LETTER XIII.
In London— Full Description of the National Monument— The Grandest Monu-
ment in the World — One Hundred and Eighty Feet High — Its Construc-
tion—Mass of Concrete— Substructure of Brick— The Podium — One Hun-
dred and Eighty Marble Statues— The Tabernacle— Lofty Spire set with
Thousands of Gems— Embossed Globe— Statue of Prince Albert— Faith,
Hope, Charity and Humanity. 30

LETTER XIV.
Description of the Tower of London — When Built— Queen Elizabeth's Armory
—Cell of Sir Walter Raleigh, Ralstone, Ac— The Horse Armory— Coats of
Mail and Weapons of Different Ages— Torture Rooms— Ann Boleyn— Earl
of Essex— Lady Jane Grey— Executioner's Axe— Instruments of Torture-
Regalia and Jewel House. 34

LETTER XV.
A Week in London— Sight-seeing— Visiting— Attending Conference— Theatres
— Crystal Palace — ^The Grand Aquarium— Tower of London—" Man's Inhu-
manity to Man "—Going to Rotterdam. 38

LETTER XVI.

At Rotterdam — Programme of Travel — Antwerp — Brussels— Paris — Lyons —
Marseilles — Nice — Genoa — Turin — Milan — Venice — Bologna — Florence

—Rome, &c 40

LETTER XVII.
Amsterdam— The Hague— Haarlem— Description of Rotterdam— Jews, Catho-
lics, Protestants — Canals— Church of St. Lawrence— Public Schools— Fight-
ing Old Ocean— Windmills and Steam Engines— Calamity at Dort — The
Hague Described — Mode of Keeping Back the Waters— The Museum— Mas-
terpieces of Dutch Painters—" The House in the Wood "—An Evening with
the American Minister. 41

LETTER XVIII.

Sight-seeing in Liverpool— Arrival in London— Albert Memorial- Houses of
Parliament— Westminster Abbey — Nelson Monument— Crystal Palace—
Theatres— Rotterdam— Table d'Hote— Visit to a Moravian Settlement— The
Hague— The Japanese Museum— Visit to the American Minister— Haarlem

INDEX AND CONTENT a.

—The Cuthcdral and Grand Organ, Imitation Thunderstorm— Meeting
with Saints— Amsterdam— Its Museum— The King's Palace— Visit the
Navy Yard — Leave for Rotterdam — Cross the Maas — Enter Belgium-
Catholic Marriage Ceremony— Programme of Ti-avel. .. . 4»5

LETTER XIX.

8ea-sicltncss— Rotterdam— Among the Moravians— The Canal System- The
Utrecht Cathedral^Beautiful Trees— Struggle for Mastery between Land
and Sea— The Hague— "House in the Wood"— Evening with Mr. Gorham
and Lady— Haarlem— A Shot by the Spaniards—" Bible Hotel "—King's
Palace— Navy Yard— Building Iron-clad Monitors— The Cemetery— Meet-
ing withSaiuts- Baptisms— Enter Belgium— Antwerp Cathedral— Paintings
and Tomb of Rubens. 51

LETTEK XX.

At Haarlem— Its Former Struggle with Spain— Two thousand People Executed
—Church of St. Bavon and its M^onderful Oi-gan- A Dutch Wedding— The
Inventor of the Art of Printing— Amsterdam— A City on Piles Built on a
Salt Marsh— Amsterdam Sapped and Mined by a Formidable Army of
Worms— Canals— A City Containing One Hundred Islands and Two Hun-
dred and Eighty Bridges— The Museum— A Palace on Piles— The Council
Chamber— Clipping Iron Plates— Diamond Cutting'- Charitable Institutions. .>5

LETTER XXI.

Journey to New Yorlc— Crossing the Atlantic— London— The German Ocean-
Rotterdam— House and Statue of Erasmus— Queen's Palace— The Old Bible
Hotel— Shipbuilding— A Dutch Burial Ground— Antwerp— The Cathedral-
Church of St. Jacques— Tomb of Ruben s— Field of Waterloo. 60

LETTER XXII.

In Brussels— A Tour in Holland— Its Geographical Divisions— Naval and Mer-
cantile Marine — Colonies — The Executive — The Legislature — Modes of
Travel— Brick Roads— Canals— Annual Expense of Dykes— Lofty Buildings
Cleanliness— Mirrors in the Streets— Church Chimes— A Singular Custom-
Births and Marriages — Dutch Country Houses — Gigantic Windmills —
" Polders, " how Produced — Public Schools. 63

LETTERXXIII.

Brussels— Hard-worked Women— Feeding Horses with Coarse Bread— Field of
Waterloo— Monument of the Prince of Orange— A Saying of Joseph Smith—
A Genuine Relic of Waterloo. t>8

LETTER XXIV.

Antwerp, Its Maritime Trade — Cathedral of Notre Dame, Its Wonderful
Chimes— The Museuna— A Masterpiece of Rubens — The Royal Palace —
Brussels, Paris in Miniature — Cathedral of St. Nicholas— Selling Wax
Candles — A Catholic Devotee — A Singular Marriage Ceremony — Royal
Operatic Theatre— National Palace— Hotel de Ville— Monument to Counts
Egmont and Horn. 70

LETTER XXV.

Paris— Visit to Versailles— Bois de Boulogne— St. Cloud— Attend the National
Assembly— French Glory, Bruises and Scars— Interview with the President

Of the French Republic.
2

yi INDEX AND CONTENTS.

PAGE

LETTER XXVI.

Paris-Destrnction of the Commune-Palace of the Louvre-Relics of Napo-
leon First-Napoleonic Rule in France-French Aristocracy-Magnificent
Improvements-Champs Elysees-Garden of the Tuileries-Garden of the
Luxembourg-The Palace of Versailles-Tho Finest Hall in the World-
Memories of Louis XVI-Le Grand Monarque-An Aristocratic Gambling
Saloon-Bed-chamber of Three Queens-Fifty Miles of Parks and Gardens-
Extract from the Paris " American Register "-Poetry-" Farewell to Paris." 79

LETTER XXVII.

Brussels-Theatre Royal-Church of St. Michael and Gudule-Visit to a Lace
Factory-Houses of Parliament-Hotel de Vllle-Waterloo and the Farm of
Hougomont-Arrlval at Paris-Call upon the American Minister-Visit to
Palaces— Notre Dame— Opinion of Utah Silk— Visit the Common Schools-
Go to Versailles— Bois de Boulogne— Visit the President of the French Re-
public—Arrival at Lyons — Silk Factories and Cocooneries.

LETTER X XV III.

The Religions of France-Marriage A Civil Contract— The Concordat— Convents

in Paris-The Educational System— Number of Births in Paris— Illegitimacy

—Working classes— Paupers— Prisons— The Supreme Power, Where Vested—

The Standing Army.

LETTER XXIX.

From Paris to Lyons— Burgundy and its Wines- Famous Towns— Fontalne-
bleau— Lyons and Its Silk Industries— Thirty-one Thousand Silk Looms-
Weaving Portraits— Beautiful Marseilles— An Amphitheatre 1,800 Years
Old— Roman Relics— Olive Plantations and Vineyards— 1 he Mediterranean.

LETTER XXX.

London Conference— Visiting the Poor—" Work Their Lives Out to Keep Life
In »_Rotterdam — Dutch Cleanliness— Political Economy in Holland-
Brussels and its Carpets and Lace— Waterloo— Continual Rain— Twenty
Miles of Tunnels— Alpine Railroads— European and American Railways.

LETTER XXXI.

Reflections-Members of the Party-Birthplace of Columbus-Religion on
Continental Europe — High Mass— The Cathedral at Genoa— Approaching
Marseilles — Orange and Lemon Groves— The Mediterranean— European
Apples.

LETTER XXXII.

At Venice— Railroad Track on Artificial Ground— Gondolas— A City Without
Horses-A Glass Factoiy— News From Home— Death— Consolation

LETTER XXXIII.

Shores of the Mediterranean— At Venice— Genoa— Statue of Columbus— The
Cathedral St. Lorenzo— The Chain That Bound John the Baptist— Desecra-
tion of the Sabbath— Start for Turin— Milan— The Arcade— Cathedral of Our
Blessed Lady, the Grandest Religious Edifice In the World— Magnificent
Marble Statuary— Statue of St. Bartholomew— Attend High Mass— Arrival
in Venice, the City of Waters.

8(1

9(i

100

105

108

INDEX AND CONTENTS. vii

PAf.'E.

LETTER XXXIV.

Venice— A Railroad on Piles— A City without Horses, Cabs or Omnibuses-
Gondolas— Sailing Along the Streets— Method of Building— The Grand
Canal— Three Hundred and Six Bridges— The Rialto- The Armenian Mon-
astery—Former Residence of Lord Byron— A Mad -house — National
Arsenal— Ancient Arms— Trophies of War— Flayed Alive— Terrible Method
of Execution— The Republic— Last of the Doges— Mercantile Marine. 11")

LETTER XXXV.

More about Venice — Historical Reminiscences- Administration of the Doges-
Destruction of the Republic— Vandalism of Napoleon— Curious Method of
Burial -Popularity of Victor Emanuel— Old Palace of the Doges— Senate
and Council Chambers— Bridge of Sighs— House ol Shylock— Residence of
Othello— Palace ol Desdemona— Dwelling Place of Marco Polo— Remains of
St. Marc the Evangelist— Columns of Solomon's Temple— Granite Slab
from Mt. Tabor— Slab from the Prison of John the Baptist— Ancient Tomb-
stones, etc. 12(1

LETTER XXXVI.

Architectural Appearance of Venice— Ancient Customs-Fires— Plague and
Pestilence— Council of Ten— Traitor Beheaded— Instruments of Torture-
Bridge of Sighs — Bologna — An Arcade with 700 Arches— Leaning Towers

Florence, the Most Beautiful of Italian Cities — Paintings and Sculpture — A
Wonderful Cabinet of Gems and Works of Art ]25

LETTER XXXVII.
Visit to an Infant School— Singing— Exercises in Reading and Writing— Lunch

Time— Excellent Ordei- — Medicine and Beds for the Sick, &c 130

LETTER XXXVIII.

Bologna— House of Galvani, Inventor of the Galvanic Battery — University of
Anatomy— Florence — Raili-oad through the Apennines— A Tunnel Tm'o
Miles Long— Damage by High Waters— Rome — The Forum— Triumphal
Arch of Titus — Ruins of Heathen Temples— The Colosseum — Arch of Con-
stantine— Famous Churches— Aqueduct of Nero— St. Anthony'sDay, Blessing
Horses and Asses— Pio Nono— Italian Unity— Victor Emanuel Denounced , 133

LETTER XXXIX.
At Rome — Ruins of Ancient Temples — Excavating the Forum— The Holy
Staircase— Arch of Titus— The Colosseum— St. Anthony's Day— Palaces of
the Emperors — Ruins of Caligula. 13,-,

LETTER XL.

Rome and its Population— The Seven Hills— Purchase of Real Estate bj-
Napoleon III— Excavations by the Government — The Forum — Anthony
and Julius Caesar — Where Virginius Stabbed his Daugliter — Famous
Obelisks— Temple of Venus — The Tarpeian Rock— Dimensions of the Colos-
seum—Visits to Cathedrals — St. Peter's— A Call on the American Minister. ]3.s

LETTER XL I.

Leave Venice— A City with One Hundred and Thirty Churches— A Famous
University— Villa of King Victor Emanuel — Leaning Towers— Eoad over
the Apennines—" The Garden of Italy " — At Florence — Pisa— The Campanile
— The Basilica— Rome— Ancient Ruins— Beggars — Santa Scala.or Holy Stair-

Vlll INDEX AND CONTENTS.

Page.
case — Atiueduct of Nero — The Apollo Theatre — Palaces of the Caesars — The
Pantheon— Capitoline Hill— Prison where St. Peter and St. Paul Were
Confined — ^House of Rienzi— Column of Pius Antoiiinns — The Chamber of
Deputies— The Sixtine Chapel — Cemetery of the Capuchins— Visits to Fam-
ous Localities and Places— The Quirinal — The Appian Way— Tombs of
Celebrated Romans — Tumuli of the Horatii and of the Curatii — Circus of
Romulus— The Vatican — Baths of Caracalla— Golden House of ]>Jero—
Statue of Moses. llS

LETTER XLII.
< io to Turin and Venice— A Hotel in Waten— A City Without Carriages— Famous
and Curious Glass Manufactures— Bridge of Sighs— Bologna, Florence and
Pisa— At Rome- Cemetery of the Capuchins— Burial Place of Five Thousand
Monks— Arches, Chandeliers and Candlesticks of Human Bones— Palace
of Victor Emanuel. 149

LETTER XLIII.

Description of the Vatican — Decorations of Michael Angelo — " The Last
Judgment "—Anecdote of Paul HI and Michael Angelo— The Appian Way —
Remains of Seneca- Baths of Caracalla— A Much Venerated Chapel —
Footprint of the Saviour— Obelisks— Forum of Trajan— Statue of St. Peter —
Constantino Embracing Christianity—Naples- Herculaneum— Pompeii-
Mount Vesuvius. .-•• ...~.... 153

LETTER XLIV.

Cathedral of St. Januarius— Beggars and Peddlers— Excavations of Pompeii-
Villa of Diomede— Villa of Cicero— Inn of Albinus— Vestals of Narcissus-
House of Sallust— Bread Baked 1,800 Years Ago— Ancient Baths— Temple
of Fortune— Temples of Jupiter and Mercury— National Museum— Relics of
Pompeii— Herculaneum— Ascent of Vesuvius 158

LETTER XLV.

City of Naples— Dwellings of thePoor— Beggars— Pompeii— The Earthquakes
of Anno Domini 63 and 79— Excavations and Relics— Herculaneum— The
Museum of Naples— The "Secret Cabinet "—Ascent of Vesuvius— Pliny
the Elder — Thirty-four Volcanic Eruptions— The "Hermitage" — From
Naples to Brindisi— Hardworking Women— Turkish Towns and Villas-
Corfu— Olive and Grape Culture— Religious Service in a Greek Cathedral-
No " Grecian Bend "—Take Steamer for Alexandria.

160

LETTER XLVI.

Railroad Ride Across Italy— At Foggia— A Filthy Hotel— A Night in a Railway
Station— Brindisi— Arrival at Corfu— Mementos of Venetian Rule— Services
in a Greek Church— Holy Water— Kissing Pictures of Saints— A Political
Meeting— A Man Killed— Take Steamer for Egypt— Alexandria— Pompey's
Pillar— Cleopatra's Needles— A Mahommedan Cemetery— Wailing for the
Dead— A Mussulman Gala Day. -. ^'^^

LETTER XLVII.

Leave Naples-Arrival at Foggia~On Board the " Trebisouda "- Cross the
Adriatic- Corfu-Visit a Greek Church — Embark on the "Saturno"—
Correcting False Impressions— The Ionian Islands—Reach Alexandria—

INDEX AND CONTENTS. IX

Crowds of Arabs, Turks, Greeks, Copts, Armenians, Syrians, &c.— Ma-
hommedan Passover— Summer Gardens and Palace of the Viceroy-
Cleopatra's Needles. -"

169

LETTER XL VIII.
Rome— Excavations by Napoleon III— Naples— Pomp and Beggary— Thousands
of Homeless People— Ascending Vesuvius — Brindisi — Corfu— Women
" Beasts of Burden "—Embark on the " Saturiio "— " Sunrise on the Medi-
terranean "—Alexandria. 172

LETTER XLIX.
In Cairo— Description of Alexandria— People of Various Nationalities— Riding
on Asses— Arab Runuers—Turkish Dresses— Veiled Ladies— Cleanliness of
the Mussulmen — Washing and Piayer — The Mahommcdan Hegira—
Mourning for the Dead— A Famous Greek Church— Joseph's Well— The
Pyramids— The Sphinx— Gardens and Palace of Gizeh— Marriage Festivi-
ities 176

LETTER L.
Leave Alexandria— Cross the Nile— Irrigation— Method of Cultivation— Arab
Mounds— Primitive Mode of Dressing— A Famous Mosque— Joseph's Well-
Cairo— Church where Joseph, Mary and Jesus Tarried— The Oldest Mosque
Known— Visit to the Khedive's Gardens— A Drive to the Pyramids—
Backsheesh— The Sphinx— Religious Services by the Dervishes— Marriage
of the Khedive's Children— City of Heliopolis- Temple of On— Fountain
of the Sun— A Famous Sycamore Tree 181

LETTER LI.

Cairo— Mosque of Mahomet All- Joseph's Well— The Khedive's Festivities-
Visit a Coptic Church— A Sheik Hanged— Hieropolis and City of On— The
Place Where Moses Was Educated— Virgin Mary's Sycamore Tree — Salt
Well Miraculously Sweetened— Plain of Heliopolis— Defeat of the Mame-
lukes—Egyptian Hotel Accommodation— Land of Goshen— Suez— Where
the Israelites Crossed the Red Sea— An Arab Village. 185

LETTER LII.

Tour of Egypt— Love of Children among the Egyptians— Divorce and Marital
Infidelity Rare— Turkish Mosques— The Turkish Sabbath— The Copts— Lack
of Education — Mahommedan Schools — Sobriety and Honesty Among
Mahommedans— Male and Female Attire— Religious Sects— Modes of
Worship— The Dervishes— Visit to a Dervish Place of Worship— Hotel Ac-
commodations in Alexandria — Agriculture and Irrigation — A Steam Plow
in Egypt— Suez and the Red Sea— Leave for Jaflfa 190

LETTER LIII.

Leaving the Land of Egypt— Going to Jaffa— Land of Goshen— City of Bubastis
—Suez— Mount Sinai— At Kantarah— Lake of Menzaleh— The Suez Canal-
Port Said 195

LETTER LIV.

Near Jaffa— The Martyrs' Tower— Plains of Sharon— Battle Ground of David
and Goliath— Church of the Holj' Sepulchre_St. Stephen's Gate— Valley
of Jehoshaphat^Sacred Relics— Centre of the Earth. 19T

X INDEX AND CONTENTS.

LETTERLV

View of Jerusalem— Solomon's City Wall— Hole " Made by the Saviour's

Elbow"— Crowds of Beggars— Mourning Women. 199

LETTER LVI.

Leave Port Said— Jaffa — Mussulman Customs Officials— Tiavelllng Arrange-
ment—The oldest Seaport in the World— Place where the Ark was Built—
Jonah's Place of Embarkation— House of Simon the Tanner— Mahom-
medan Funeral Ceremony- Plains of Sharon— The Martyrs' Tower— A
Night in the Desert— Start for the Holy Citj'— Battle Field of David and
Goliath— Resting Place of the Ark of the Covenant— Rose of Sharon— St.
George's Church— Mount Zion — Mount of Olives — In Camp Before Jeru-
salem 20J

LETTER LVII.

On the Mediten-anean— At Jaffa— Cheap Oranges— Visit a German Colony—
Arimathea— Hills of Judea— Valley of Ajalou — Lydda of the Acts —
Kirjath-jearim— Mount of Olives— The Holy City— Camp by the Jafta Gate-
Church of the Holy Sepulchre— Where the Saviour was Scourged— Judg-
ment Hall — Place of the Crucifixion— Valley of Jehoshaphat — Garden of
Gethsemane — Tomb of Zacharias- Jacob's Well — Solomon's Pools —
Bethlehem — Church of the Nativity — Dead Sea — Ruins of Jericho —
Elisha's Fountain— Gilgal— Christ's Hotel— Mosque of Omar— Judgment
Seat of Solomon— Tomb of Aaron's Sons— Pool of Bethesda 20(>

LETTER LVII I.

Land at Jaffa — Orange and Lemon Orchards— German Settlements in Palestine
—Valley of Ajalon— Ancient Battle Field— i hurch of the Holy Sepulchre —
Start for the Dead Sea— Famous Localities Mentioned in the Scriptures —
NovelWater Vessels— Bethlehem— Monastery of Mar Saba— Brook Kedron
—The River Jordan— Ruins of Jericho— Mountain on Which the Saviour
was Tempted— A Bedouin War Dance— Bethany— Church of the Ascension-
Backsheesh- Mosque of Omar— Saddle of Mahomet — Mount Moriah —
Garden of Eden— Sacred Cradle— Foundations of Solomon's Temple —
Visit to the Chief Rabbi— Ancient Parchments 217

LETTER LIX.

guez — Red Sea— Port Said — On Board the " Vesta "—Anchor off Jaffa— Passports
Demanded — Commencement of Tent Life — House of Simon the Tanner-
Travelling to Jerusalem— Plains of Sharon— Valley of Ajalon— Valley of
Elah— Mount of Olives— Church of the Holy Sepulchre— Tomb of Rachel —
Bethlehem— Dead Sea— Jordan— Jericho — Gilgal — Bethany — Mosque of
Omar. 22(i

LETTERLX.

One Day in Jerusalem — Rachel's Tomb— Description of the Pools of Solomon —
Birthplace of the Saviour— Church of the Nativity— Grotto of the Nativity-
Altar of the Innocents — Studio of St. Jerome — Bedouin Arabs— The
Shepherds' Field— Convent of Mar Saba— Skulls of the Dead— An Ancient
Palm Tree— River Jordan— Rencontre with Bedouins— Description of the
Dead Sea 229

INDEX AND CONTENTS. XI

PAGE.

LETTER LXI.

Visit to tiie Jordan River— Sacred Localities— Singular Custom Among the
Cliristians of Palestine— Fountain of Elisha— Valley of the Jordan-
Brook Cherith— Plains of Jericho— The Jericho of To-day— Entertained by
Bedouins— Belhany—Residonce of Mary and Martha— Tomb of Lazarus—
Garden of Gethsemane. 23fi

LETTER LXII.

Topography of Jerusalem— Hill of Evil Council— Mizpeh— Mount of Olives-
Valley ol Jehoshaphat— Ilinnom and Kcdron— Absalom's Pillar -Siloam—
Mosque of Omar— Solomon's Temple— Hill of Zion— Tombs of the Holy
City— Mount Moriah— Worship of Moloch— Scarcity of Water in Jerusa-
lem—Political and Financial Condition of the Jews— Place of Lamenta-
tion 244

LETTER LXIII.

Sacred Localities— The Stone of Unction— The Holy Sepulchre— The Chapel of
the Angel— Hill of Calvary— The Hole in which the Cross was Planted-
House of Pilate—" Behold the Man "—The True Cross— Opposition Gardens
of Gethsemane — Rivalry of Christian Sects — A Terrible Massacre —
Fighting Among Cliristian Zealots Prevented by Turkish Guards— Christi-
anity Despised by Jews and Mahommedans. 34Jt

LETTER LXIV.

Robbers' Glen— Bethel— Ancient Shiloh— Jacob's Well— Joseph's Tomb— Mount
Gerizim— Ancient Shechem— Ancient Samaria— Tomb of John the Baptist—
Dothan— Plains of Esdraelon— Mountains of Gilboa— Spring of Jezreel—
Suite of Rooms of Joseph and Mary— Dining Room of the Saviour and his
Apostles— An Assyrian Chapel— Mount Carmel, Nain— Church of the
Annunciation— Assyrian Pilgrims. 254

LETTER LXV.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre— Sacred Localities— Religious Services on the
Mount of Olives— Dedication of the Land of Palestine— Hospice of the
Knights Templars— Trades Among the Arabs— Arab Cookery— Visit to
the Chief Rabbi— Valley of Hinnom— The Gibbeah of Saul— Bethel-
Robbers' Glen — Mosque of Shiloh — Jacob's Well —Mounts Ebal and
Gerizim — Sychar— A Gala Day— Dothan— Valley of Esdraelon— Mount
Tabor. ■ 2q9

LETTER LXVI.

Farewell to Jerusalem— A Gala Day— Arab Agriculture— Nablous, Ancient
Shechem — Among Ferocious People— Avengers of Blood — Cultivation of
the Olive— Samaria. 364

LETTER LXVII.

A Famous Scripture Locality— A Village of Bobbers— The "Fountain of
Gardens "—The Battle Field of Palestine— Mounts Tabor and Hermon—
Nazareth— The Holy Grotlo— Workshop of Joseph— Table of Christ— Arab
Ploughs— Cana of Galilee— An Arab School— Sea of Galilee— Tiberias-
Bedouin Spinsters— Residence of Mary Magdalene— Serenaded by Bedouins
—Backsheesh 270

XU INDEX AND CONTENTS.

Page.
LETTER LXVIII.

Services in a Greelc Cliurch — Personal Cleanliness and Mean Dwellings of
Turks and Arabs— Nazareth— Armenian Pilgrims— Hills and Plains of
Galilee— Arab Villages— Communism— Novel Metliod of Churning— From
Alexandria to Cairo— Sea of Galilee. 276

LETTER LXIX.

Cana of Galilee— Ancient Stone Jars— Jotapa— A Memorable Battle Field—
Tiberias— Sea of Galilee — Ancient Ruins — Chorazin—Bethsaida — Site of
Capernaum— Lake of Gennesareth — At Dan— Cesarea Philippi — Burial
Place of Nimrod— Castle of Suboiteh— Damascus— Visit the American
Consular Agent— Mosque of St. John— Interview with Abd-el Kader 279

LETTER LXX.

Leave Jerusalem— Bethel— The Robbers' Glen— Ruins of Shiloh— Jacob's "Well —
Gerizim and Ebal— Shechem— City of Samaria— Church of St. John the
Baptist— Dothan— Valley of Jezreel—Endor — Nazareth— Church of the
Annunciation— Cana of Galilee— Dwelling place of Joseph and Mary—
Tiberias— Where Nimrod was Buried— Cesarea Philippi— Damascus 287

LETTER LXXI.

Start for Beyrout— At Damascus— An Excellent Road— Massacre by Turk»—
Rain— At Kob Ellas- Arrive at Beyrout— Sacred Relics— Monkish Rivalry-
Physical Contrast Between Arabs and Jews— Silk Culture— Groves of Figs,
Oranges, Olives and Dates. 292

LETTER LXXII.

Sea of Galilee— Tiberias— A Daughter of Juda— Visit Jewish Residences-
Human Beings and Asses Dwelling in one Room— The Cleanest Town In
Palestine— Mouth of Jordan— Chorazin and Bethsaida— Ruins of Magdala —
A Ramble on the Sea Shore-Mount Hermon— Damascus and Its Forty
Thousand Dogs. 296

LETTER LXXIII.

Leave Damascus— The only Wagon Road in Syria-Fine Scenery— Mountains
of Lebanon— Beyrout— Finish of Camp Life— On Board the " Mars"— Island
of Cyprus— Rhodes— Patmos—Scio— Smyrna— Lesbos-Tenedos—Dardanelli
—Abydos — Gallipoli— Sea of Marmora— Golden Horn— Constantinople. 299

LETTER LXXIV.

Damascus— Reception Rooms of a Prince— River Abana— At Dimas— Large
Flocks of Goats— In Camp on the Anti-LabanonMountains— The Scenery of
Lebanon— Contrast Between Art and Nature— Beyrout— Silk Industry-
Entertained by Turks^Adieu to Tent Life— On Board the " Mars." 302

LETTER LXXV.

Four Days at Constantinople— Visit the German Minister— Embark on the

" Mars"— Arrive at Athens— Famous Grecian Ruins— Religious Toleration. 306

LETTER LXXVI.

At Athens— Plains of Attica— Hill of Mars— Galilee— Scriptural Reminiscences
Fountain of Dan— Cesarea Philippi— Damascus— An Unfortunate Archi-
tect 312

INDEX AND CONTENTS. X1H

I^ETTER T. XXVII.

Leave Constantinople— Piraius— Classical Ruins— The Greek Parliament— The

Acropolis by Moonlight, 321

LETTER L X X V I I I .
Be yrout— Protestant College and Schools— Embark for Constantinople— Island
of Cyprus— Mount Olympus— Sea of Marmora— Arrival at the Turkish
Metropolis— Leave for Athens— Greek Independence Day 324

LETTER LXXIX.

Palestine Tour Completed— Beyrout — Constantinople— Reminiscences of Cri-
mean War— The Pirseus-Athens, Ancient and Modern 330

LETTER LXXX.

Sunday at Sea— The Austrian Lloyd Steamers— An Immense Ship of War-
Leave for Verona — The Quadrilateral— Field of Solferino — Tomb of Romeo. 333

LETTER LXXX I.

At Athens— Classical Ruins— Peculiar Customs Among the Greeks— Funeral

Ceremony. 336

LETTER LXXXII,

Brigandage in Greece — The Classical Ruins of Athens— Leave the Pirseus- The
Austrian Lloyds— At Trieste — Verona— Ancient Roman Amphitheatre— The
Tyrol— Munich. 342

LETTER LXXX III.

Constantinople— Island of Syra^Athens— The Acropolis— The Areopagus-
Visit the American Minister— Trieste— Verona— Munich 346

LETTER LXXXIV.

The Nile— Heliopolis— Goshen— Red Sea— Holy Places— Sea of Galilee— River

Jordan— Mountain of the Temptation 349

L E T TER LXXXV.

At Munich — Visit a Kindergarten — Employments and Pastimes of the
Children— Contrast between Children of Germany and France— Conveni-
ence of the Kindergartens 351

LETTER LXXXV I.

Munich— Visit a Royal Palace — Statue of Bavaria— Imperial Wedding-
Vienna— The Arsenal— Summer Palace— The Great Exhibition „. 353

LETTER L-XXXVII.
Stormy Weather— No Beggars— Royal Marriage— Instruments of Torture-
Visit the American Legation. •• 3-50

LETTER LXXXVIII.

Principal German Cities-The,King's iPalace-A Famous Glass Factory— Glass
Window Curtains— Visit the Universities—Marriage Festivities— Vienna
and Its Great Exhibition— " No Place Like Home." 361

xiv INDEX AND CONTENTS.

PAGE.

LETTER L XXXIX.

At Vienna— Berlin— The Royal Palace — A Large Banquet Hall— Beautiful New
Chapel— Monuments— Visit the U. S. Miuister— Freedom of Parliament —
Multitudes of Soldiers— Unhealthy Moral Condition of Berlin— Hamburg-
Church of St. James— In London Again. 365

LETTER XC.
Leave Vienna — Bad Weather — Berlin — The Thier-Garten- Bismarck and

Moltke— Prussian Ladies— Hamburg— The Hollanders — A Land of Soldiers, 370

LETTER XCI.

In London— Attend Conference-Russian and Turkish Baths— Visit to Topes-
field— Visit From the Marquis of Sligo. 374

LETTER XCII.

On the Atlantic Ocean— Hamburg— London Conference— Leave for Liverpool-
Embark on the "Wisconsin." 376

LETTER XCIII.

At St. Louis— Fine Scenery— Visit Relatives. 379

TELEGRAMS.
Telegrams from Salt Lake City and Evanston. 385

LETTER XCIV.

Home Again— Reception by Friends. 383

LETTER XCV.

Salutation to the Ladies of Utah. 384

CORRESPONDENCE

PALESTINE TOURISTS

LETTER I

Instructions— Going to Euroi^e and Asia Minor — Openings for the Gospel —
Palestine to be Dedicated — Return of the Jews — Fulfilment of Prophecy.

Salt Lake City, Utah Territory,

October 15tli, 1872.
Pkesident Geoege a. Smith :

Dear Sir: — As you are about to start on an extensive
tour tlirough Europe and Asia Minor, where you will doubt-
less be brought in contact with men of position and inliuence
in society, we desire that you observe closely wliat open-
ings now exist, or where they may be effected, for the intro-
duction of the Gospel into the various countries you shall
visit.

When you go to the Land of Palestine, we wisli you to
dedicate and consecrate that land to the Lord, that it may be
blessed with fruitfulness, preparatory to the return of the

2 CORRESPONDENCE OF

Jews in fnltilment of prophecy, and the accomplishment of
the purposes of our Heavenly Father.

We pray that you may be preserved to travel in peace
and safety, that you may be abundantly blessed with words
of wisdom and free utterance in all your conversations per-
taining to the Holy Gospel, dispelling prejudice, and sowing
seeds of righteousness among the people.

BRIGHAM YOUNG,
DANIEL H. WELLS.

LETTER II

At Washington — Visit to the Departments — The Presidential Election— The
Epizootic — Interview with President Grant — Passports for Europe.

Metropolitan Hotel, Washington, D. C,

November 2nd, 1872.
Mrs. Bathsheba W. Smith:

My Dear Wife : — Elder Feramorz Little and myself called
upon several heads of Departments, and other gentlemen
with whom we are acquainted, but found that Secretaries Fish
and Delano, and most of the others had gone to their
respective States to look after the Presidential election, and
be ready to vote next Tuesday.

More than half the horses in Washington are disabled by
the epizootic, and but few street cars and conveyances are
moving, making it difficult to get conveyances.

We called at the White House, where we expected to
meet our acquaintance, Gen. Babcock, but he was absent
with the rest. We sent in our cards to the President, and

PALESTINE TOURISTS, 3

were almost instantly admitted into the Keception Room. On
our entrance lie arose and gave us each a cordial shake by
the hand, and motioned us to seats. We told him we were
about to visit the Old World, and wished to commence our
journey by paying our respects to the Chief Magistrate of our
country. He enquired after the material progress of Utah,
her railroads, and her iron and coal mines, and said that we
should manufacture our own iron, instead of buying it from
abroad. We told him that we were doing so to a limited ex-
tent, but would be compelled to purchase railroad iron from
abroad until we could form connections between the iron and
coal regions, which were generally at a distance from each
other, and it would require time, and the construction of rail-
road lines to connect them. We gave him some account of
our progress in the manufacture of woollen goods and other
necessaries, in which he seemed interested. When we arose
to retire, I tendered him our thanks for the interest he had
taken in our affairs in getting the Engelbrecht case before
the Supreme Court before its regular order, and obtaining a
decision which had released us from many embarrassments,
and placed us right before the country.

The interview was a pleasant one, although President
Grant was suffering from the effects of a violent cold.

We have obtained our passports from the State Depart-
ment, and expect to sail from New York by the Guion line on
the 6th, as our party have arranged to meet us at the St.
Nicholas Hotel, New York, on the 4th.

Affectionately, your husband,

GEORGE A. SMITH.

CORRESPONDENCE OF

LETTER III

Traveling by Steam— Departure from Salt Lake City — Grood^ By — The
Plains — The Missoiiri Bridge — Thunder Storm— In a Palace Car — Arri-
val at Chicago,

Chicago, Illinois, October 30tli, 1872.
Editoe Woman's Exponent:

Dear Lula : — Traveling with steam velocity is productive
of sudden changes, my home is already considerably in the
distance.

I left Salt Lake City on the morning of the 26th ; was
accompanied to <)gden by several prominent ladies, where I
met my brother, Lorenzo Snow, of Brigham Cit}^, with whom
I traveled. President G. A. Smith, with others of his partj^,
started on the 16th. We shall meet them in New York.

On board the train for the east I bade '*good by" to
very many dear friends of Salt Lake and Ogden cities, who
waited on the platform to see us off, and, at 6 p. m. of the
3rd day, arrived at Omaha.

In crossing the plains, I frequently drew the contrast be-
tween the present and the past, and could hardly realize the
present to be a living reality. To travel with ease, devoid of
fatigue, in three days, a distance which a few years ago
required more than three months of weariness and privations to
accomplish, is certainly a very great change. * * *
I took an earnest glimpse of the beautiful, stupendous
bridge as we crossed the Missouri River. It is a piece of
workmanship worthy of a critical daylight observation.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 5

We left Council Bluffs in the midst of one of those thun-
der storms so common to that locality, beyond the necessity of
artiticial irriijation. It was 9 o'clock at night, but what were
the night and the storm to us ! Instead of pitcliing tents and
circling beneatli a dripping roof, we were comfortably seated
in a palace car and travelling at an almost incredible speed.
So much for the blessings of God on the march of improve-
ment. These night travels cheat us of many pleasurable
scenic views, a tax which time-saving naturally brings.

At the Bluffs we took the Eock Island route to Chicago,
and arrived at Davenport, where we breakfasted, and took a
hasty view of the stirring, beautiful place, with the railroad
bridge — one in progress of erection — all curiosities to one as
little acquainted with railroads as myself. The scenerj'- from
Rock Island to Chicago is variegated, and as seen while pass-
ing, as we did, at times at the rate of nearly a mile per minute,
is very delightful , one characteristic worthy of notice, being
the freshness of verdure in comparison to what we had previ-
ously passed.

We arrived here last evening at 4 o'clock, and the mis-
sionaries to Europe left on the 5 o'clock train for New York.
* * * My health is good, and my heart full of grati-
tude. Sister Mercy R. Thompson joins in love to all our good

sisters.

ELIZA R. SNOW.

COKEESPONDENCE OF

LETTER ly.

EXTRACT FROM A LETTER TO PRESIDENT YOUNG.

Visiting Relatives at Fountain Green — Sisters of Josepli Smith, tlie Prophet
— At the Birthi^lace of Joseph and Hyrum Smith — The Epizootic—
Fitehbvira; — At New York.

New York City, November 1st, 1872.

Brother W. D. Fuller accompanied me here, and did his
best to make me comfortable. Brother Feramorz Little went
to St. Louis from Omaha. I went to Chicago by the Burling-
ton road, switching off to visit Colchester and Fountain Green,
at which places I found three sisters of the Prophet Joseph
Smith, whom I had not seen for twenty-five years. They were
very glad to see me. Sophronia McClarryisa widow, residing
with her daughter, Maria Stodard, who married a man named
WooUey. Catherine is living on the place that you furnished
her means to purchase, and is apparently the hapjDiest woman
I have seen on the journey. Her place is a piece of timber
land, which your last bounty enables her to increase to
twenty acres, and as in all her life she has never been able to
enjoy a home of her own for a single hour, her gratitude to
you seems unbounded.

Arthur Milliken rents a house at Colchester at nine dollars
per month, and spends his time weighing coal for the railroad
company, for which he receives a regular salary. His boys
are at work digging in the mines, and the family are living
quite comfortably. I did not fail to tell them that the}^ ought
to be in the mountains, striving to build up Zion.

1' A L p] S T I N E T O U K I S T S . 7

I took the Grand Trunk Railroad through Canada to
Boston, stopping one day in St. Lawrence County and passing
through the towns in Vermont where Joseph and Hyrum Smith
were born, and through the tow^n in New Hampshire w^here
my father was born.

While at Boston business was much paralyzed by sick-
ness among the hor^ies, the streets being silent. A few j^oke
of oxen were all that could be seen, moving express wagons.

I spent the Sabbath with the Hon. Alva Crocker, M. C, of
Fitchburg, Mass., whose family took every pains to make us
comfortable, and he exhibited to us to the best advantage the
wonderful manufa'^tories of that place. His kind feelings
towards our people, so often manifested in Congress, are
repeated by him whenever opportunity offers. He wishes to
be remembered to you.

Brother Feramorz Little and family arrived in New York
to-day, all well. They have had an agreeable visit, among
others, with Malcolm Little's family.

I was glad to learn that the brethren expecting to accom-
pany me had started and that Brother Schettler was also to
arrive here in time to cross the sea with us. I am very glad of
this, as I do not wish to remain long in the damp climate of
England, and I shaU be in favor of crossing the channel as
soon as consistent.

Brother Thomas Taylor and daughter arrived to-day.
Brother Feramorz Little and myself go to Washington by the
night train. We have seen Brother Spencer Clawson, he is
well and in good spirits. Brother Staines is very busy out-
fitting small parties of emigrants who have unexpectedly

made their appearance.

GEORGE A. SMITH.

8 CORRESPONDENCE OF

LETTER V.

Riding Five Days and Five Nights— Arrival in New York— Members of
the Company — Missionaries for Europe.

St. Nicholas' Hotel, New York City,

1 a.m., November 6tli, 1872.

Editors Salt Lake Herald:

I arrived liere yesterday morning at 7 o'clock, after a ride
of five days and five nights, and was very busy all day arrang-
ing for onr passage to Liverpool. Our company consists of
Elders George A. Smith, Lorenzo Snow, George Dunford, An-
son Call, Feramorz Little, Miss Eliza R. Snow, Miss Clara S.
Little, Mrs. Mary R. Thompson, Mrs. Mary A. Fielding and
myself, also a number of our missionaries who are going to
Europe, but whose names I have not been able to ascertain.
We intend to leave at 9 a. m. to-day, onhoaid the Minnesota.
Elders Thomas Taylor, Jacob Weiler and W. D. Fuller are
returning home. We are all well and anticipate a pleasant
time. You will hear from me again after we arrive in Eng-
land.

Very truly yours,

PAUL A. SCHETTLEB.

PALESTINE TOURISTS

LETTER VI

On the Ocean— Sea-sickness— At Davenport— At Buflfalo— Niagara Falls—
The Railway Suspension Bridge— Crossing to Canada.

Steamer "Minnesota," 800 miles from Liverpool,

November 15tli, 1872.
My Dear Miss Greene:

Here I am in the midst of the ocean. We embarked, as
we had anticipated, on the 6th. The sea was calm and sailing
pleasant till towards night, when the winds became too strong
for the sails— they were all fnrled, which produced a rolling
motion of the vessel, conducive to sea-sickness with some of
the passengers. We liave had considerable rough weather,
but now all is calm. I have experienced a slight touch of that
disquieting malady called sea-sickness, just enough to make
my appetite inexpensive for two or three days, and to cause
a little cleansing of the stomach for my future benefit.

The short period of time since leaving my Mountain Home
has introduced me to much that has been interesting; my
health has been good, and tlius tar my endurance of the
fatigue (if anything I have experienced is worthy to be called
such) has been beyond my expectations. • * * *

On entering Davenport I remarked that they could not
run street cars there, but I was mistaken, for presently I saw
one despite the narrowness of the streets, some of which are
very handsome. Davenport is a pleasant, stirring town, but,
like all other towns and cities I have seen since I left Salt Lake,
it seems destitute of sufficient land to give elbow room to the
streets.

10 CORRESPONDENCE OF

We stopped two hours in Buffalo— a rainy morning, but
I wanted to see Buffalo and took a Jong ramble for that pur-
pose. From Buffalo we went to Niagara — crossed into Canada
on the new suspension bridge, over which the railroad trains
pass, to view the Falls ; and, after witnessing those scenes of
nature in her display of the grand and beautiful, we recrossed
on the old bridge. From descriptions from various sight-seers,
my imagination had been whetted to an appreciative idea, so
far as the majestic grandeur of tlie scenery is concerned ; but
its beauty — so chaste, so indescribably delicate — I had not an-
ticipated. In fact, without actual, personal . view, I never
could have comprehended such a harmonious combination of
power and delicacy. Imagine for a moment a body of water
falling in a magnificent volume to a great distance, and form-
ing in its descent a mantle of pure, sparkling white, of ever
changing folds, over a robe of th^ most delicate sliade of green
that either the dye of art or of nature can produce — at times the
green appearing as if approaching the surface — at other times
seen obscurely — the chaste and beautiful snow}^ white ever
preponderating ; while from the depths below springs are con-
stantly ascending, apparently as far as the eye can reach, and
then dropping in heavy mists on the ever humid surroundings.
But after so many able pens have descanted upon this subject,
it seems like folly for mine to attempt it. I leave it, after
drawing the conclusion that Mark Twain was induced to speak
indifferently respecting this celebrated curiosity, lest he should
be suspected of doing or thinking for once like somebody-
else.

As yet I have had but little opportunity for writing, the
passage being rough makes it difficult.

E. E. SNOW.

P. S. Still pleasant, and all right.
Nov. 17, 180 miles from Queen stown.

E. E. S.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. H

LETTER VII.

Neariug Queenstown— Departure from New York— Rain and Wind at Sea—
Sea-sickness— Headwinds— Smooth Sea and Fair Winds—" Crossing the
Atlantic," a Poem by Miss E. R. Snow.

Steamship "Minnesota," November KJtli, 1872.

At Noon, 2,554 Knots from Nexo Jorlc.

Editors Salt Lake Herald:

The sea being very calm to-day, I think I cannot do
better than pen you a few lines, to be mailed on our expected
arrival at Queenstown on Monday morning, the 18th inst.
We left pier 46 in New York at 9.45 a. m. on the 6th inst.,
bidding adieu to Messrs. Staines, John W. Young and lady,
Bishop Thomas Taylor and Messrs. Jacob Weiler, S. B.
Young and W. D. Fuller, the former having done all he
possibly could to make us comfortable on our passage over
the Atlantic.

As soon as we had passed Sandy Hook it commenced
raining and a heavy breeze was swelling our sails. The con-
sequence was that Miss Clara S. Little and Mr. Anson Call soon
felt the effects of being afloat, and during the night and the
two following days all of us, Mr. Dunford excepted, followed
suit. We made pretty good time, our log book showing 263,
270, 260 and 258 knots for the first four days, and after re-
covering a little from the first attacks of sea-sickness, we
commenced to enjoy our meals up to the 12th, when the
wind shifted towards the east, and during about thirty-six
hours we had to contend against heavy head-winds, which

12 CORRESPONDENCE OF

made tlie steamer roll and pitch tremendously, and not only
turned our stomachs inside out, but tossed about and upset
everything that was not very securely fastened in the saloon
and in our small staterooms.

President Gfeorge A. Smith had a pretty hard time of it,
as he could liardly turn over in his berth ; but with the rest
of us the contrary was the case, as we were continually
rolled from one side to the other, and had to brace ourselves
against some part of the berth to prevent our being pitched
out. Miss E. R. Snow has stood the voyage and sea-sickness
so far, as well as any of us, and has given us a good deal of
intellectual enjoyment. Mr. Call had to suffer the most, but
he is getting over it now. Since the 14th we have had pretty
fair wind, and to-day the sea is remarkably smooth. All are
well now and in good spirits, and we pass away the time in
reading in different guide books and making our plans for
future journeyings.

As I informed you before, our excursion party now
consists of seven, viz.— President George A. Smith, Elders
Lorenzo Snow, Feramorz Little and George Dunford, and Miss
Eliza R. Snow, Miss Clara S. Little and myself. Mrs. Mary R.
Thompson and Mrs. Mary A. Fielding are travelling with us
to England ; also Elder Anson Call, who is going on a short
mission. The names of the other missionaries on board are
John I. Hart, Mark Lindsey, John Martin, Wm. Parker, Wm.
Bircumshaw, Thomas Snarr, Hugh S. Gowan and Henry B.
Wild with wife and child. They are all well.

I enclose you a copy of a nice little poem written by
Miss Eliza R. Snow, entitled " Crossing the Atlantic," a copy
of which she presented to our captain, who highly appre-
ciated it.

Very truly yours,

PAUL A. SCHETTLER.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. ]3

CROSSING THE ATLANTIC.

Written at Sea by Miss Eliza R. Snow, of Salt I^ake (Jity, Utah.

We're on the "Minnesota,"

A ship of "Guion Line,"
Which boasts her Captain Morgan,

The geo'rons, staunch and kind.

Amid the heaving waters
That form the liquid plain ;

With fou.r and twenty draft feet
The steamer jjloughs the main.

I'm gazing on the ocean

As on the deck I stand,
And feel the cooling breezes
With Avhich the sails ai-e fanned.

By sunlight, star and moonlight,
And tranquil evening shade,

The ever varying features
Of ocean I've su.rveyed.

At times with restless motion.

As if her spirit grieves —
As tho' her breast were paining.

Her mighty bosom heaves.

And then, vast undulations.

Like the rolling prairies spread:
With wave on wave dissolving,
With tumbling, dashing tread.

Upon the deep, dark billows,

Broad, foaming whitecaps rise.
And sprays in dazzling beauty,
Shoot upwai-d to the skies.

'Tis now a plain, smooth surface.

As tho' in cozy sleep
Were wrapped each wave and billow

Upon the briny deep.

14 CORRESPONDENCE OF

But hark ! The Captain orders
The furling ev'ry sail;

Storm clouds and head-winds rising
Portend a coming gale.

Anon all Neptune's furies
Are on the steamer's jjath ;

"We mount the deck to witness
The ocean in its wrath.

The scene ! What pen can write it ?

"What pencil's art could show
The wild, terrific grandevir

Which reigns around lis now ?

The waving, surging waters,
Like battle armor clash ;

Tumultuous waves upheaving
"With foaming fury dash.

The steamer mounts the billows,
Then dips the space below ;

And bravely presses onward,
Tho' reeling to and fro.

"We're sailing on the ocean

"With wind and sail and steam ;

"Where views of "terra firma"
Are like the poet's dream.

The God who made the waters—
Who made the solid land,

Is ours — our Great Protector,
Our life is in His hands.

Subservient to His counsel —
Confiding in His care —

Directed by His wisdom.
There's safety everywhere.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 15

LETTER VIII

On Terra Firma — Ben Butler — At the St. Nicholas Hotel — West Point — In-
terview with Officials — A Drive Round Central Park.

Liverpool, England, November 19th, 1872.
Editor Woman's Exponent:

My Dear Lula: — I am now on ^' terra tirma," buf so
highly elevated that I almost claim to be tilling an serial posi-
tion, being located on the fourth tloor in the " North- Western
Hotel," a spacious building. The room I occupy, in company
with Mrs. Thompson and Miss Little, fronts St. George's Hall,
said to be the largest edifice in the city.

In my last, I left you with the Falls of Niagara. I do
not recollect anything of special interest occurring between
there and New York, unless the presence of Hon. Ben. Butler
should be so considered. Not having seen him, I felt consid-
erable interest when it was announced that he was on the
train, and to my entire satisfaction , he entered the car in which
I was riding, and seated himself where I had a good view of
his ample phiz. As we arrived at towns by the way, the
citizens, no doubt having been apprised of his coming, were
out in masses, to whom he delivered electioneering speeches,
w^hich were listened to with the usual enthusiasm of such
occasions. For my part, I feel to respect any man who pos-
sesses sufficient independence of character, in this age of
political bribery, to speak as he thinks — which I believe Ben
Butler does.

We arrived in New York on Sunday morning; it was

16 CORRESPONDENCE OF

raining, but luckily for us, the beautiful depot afforded us
shelter, while, after considerable delay, a carriage (probably
the property of some unpopular intidel) was j)rocured to
carry ourselves and our baggage to St. Nicholas' Hotel. The
fact of our arrival on the Sabbath was the cause of delay;
this very religious people have plenty of cabs and hacks to
receive strangers on other days of the week, which stronglj^
reminds me of a class of religionists referred to in New Testa-
ment history. I am now speaking in general terms — there
are very excellent people living in New York, I know sev-
eral, although my knowledge is very limited.

St. Nicholas' Hotel is a splendid establishment — it con-
tains 600 rooms and accommodates from ten to eleven hun-
dred occupants. It is freely ventilated, and so warmed with
pipes running in various directions as to keep an equili-
brium of temperature. Water is conveyed to and from the
rooms in pipes, so that you are not stinte'd — you can wash
yourself and rinse too, if you choose. The whole establish-
ment is lighted with gas, and you can have as much light as
you please; yet I think there is an extra charge if you keep
it burning all night. What I consider an enormity is the
charge of one dollar per daj^ for fire, however small it may
be; and then tlie porter graciously expects a small fee for his
condescension in making it for you. But that is all very
^ell — he is so obliging and does it so much better than any
one else.

I stayed three nights in New York— spent two days in the
city and one in visiting Willard Young at West Point. In
company of President George A. Smith, my brother and Bro-
ther Dunford, I went to the office of the Notary Public, the
kind and affable Mr. None, before whom I solemnly sub-
scribed to my allegiance to the United States Government,
etc., according to due fonn of law, and he made out my
application, which he promised to send to Washington for my
passport, which I expect to meet in London on my arrival.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 17

In conversation with Mr. None, Brother Smith spoke of his
rdjerjtion from the Philadelphia Convention, on account of
his religion, when Mr. None exclaimed, emphatically, "How
ridiculous ! " He expressed much pleasure on meeting Pres-
ident Smith, saying he was the first official of our people
with whom he had met. We then called on the "Consul
General of the German Empire," Mr. Roesing, where we met
the very gentlemanly JMr. Schleiden, mi^mber of the German
Parliament. Both thise gentlemen had visited Salt Lake,
where they made Brother Smith's acquaintance. They spoke
of their visit in the highest terms.

Through the kindness of Brother J. W. Young, I enjoyed
a pleasant turn around Central Park ; and here, amid its
shades, fountains, equestrian statues, etc. etc., I leave you
for the present.

ELIZA R. SNOW.

18 COKRESPOXDENCE OF

LETTER IX

At Liverpool — Visit to the Workhouse, It Covers Nine Acres of Ground —
The Shoemakers' Quarters — Picking Oakvim— Paupers do not Like
Work — Tlieir Sleeping Rooms — Apartments of the Female Inmates
Tea and Bread and Butter— The Laundry — The Childrens' Apartments
— "Poor Little P^orsaken" — The Hospital — The Dining Room— The
Church — Monument to Agnes Jones — The Vagabonds' Apartment.

Liverpool, England, November 20th, 1872.
Editor Deseret News:

Through the blessings of kind Providence, we have
safely crossed the Atlantic, and are now in Liverpool.

All are in good health and excellent spirits. We were
twelve and a half days crossing the ocean, and were well
pleased with the steamer Minnesota and its accommodations.
The captain, James Morgan, we found to be a kind, affable,
and intelligent gentleman. We anchored in the Mersey on
the 19th, at 1 a. in. Early next morning Pn^sident A. Car-
rington and son, accompanied by Elders J. G. Bleak and.
G. F. Gibbs, joined us on board ; and through tlie hospitality
of the Captain we breakfasted together.

Presuming that you have been posted, through ether
sources, concerning our tour thus far, I will proceed to give
you a brief sketch from my journal, of "Two hours in a
Workhouse."

Liverpool embraces many objects of curiosity and interest,
among" which is its celebrated workhouse. Through the
interest of some friends and the courtesy of Mr. Teasdale, the
Deputy Governor of the establishment, I had an oppor-

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 19

t unity, in company with Elder J. G. Bleak, of visiting these
magniticent premises. An area of nine acres is covered by
this enormous pile of buildings, being nearly one half mile
in circumference. In 1868 its inmates numb(;rod ry^iJOO. At
present the number is reduced to 2,300, all of whom are
recognized as paupers. They are admitted into this institu-
tion by virtue of their citizenship in Liverpool parish, and
their entire inability to provide their own living.

The management of this workhouse is under the super-
vision of a committee elected by the people of the parish,
and is conducted on tlie most economical principles, but in
no sense approaching a point of self-sustaining. It is sup-
ported principally by city taxation, with slight assistance by
appropriations through the influence of some member of the
British Parliament, who has taken it, I believe, as a kind of
pet child, under his protection. In the year 1871 its expenses
amounted to about |700.000. It consumes, in the winter
season , coal , averaging per week 120 tons. Cost of provisions
consumed by the paupers in 1869 was estimated at $100,000.
The expenses, the same year, for educating pauper children,
were nearly $5,000.

Mr. Teasdale conducted us through the various depart-
ments explaining, and answering our many inquiries. The first
building we entered embraced the quarters appropriated to
shoemakers, consisting chiefly of aged men, who were busily
engaged and appeared contented. The boots and shoes,
when made, were given to the inmates of the establishment
as their necessities demanded. In the next department men
were picking oakum ; in another, others were picking to
pieces and preparing material for stuffing cushions, sofas, &c.
I asked Mr. Teasdale whether this business, together with
others in which the paupers were engaged, could not be made
lucrative. He said that, as a general rule, the paupers were
disinclined to labor, and exercised considerable ingenuity to
avoid work ; furthermore, that a large majority of them were

20 CORRESPONDENCE OF

aged, sickly, and broken down in body and mind, that they
were compelled to labor, more for a moral effect and to
retard others from unnecessarily crowding the institution,
than for any pecuniary advantage. In the course of my con-
versation with this gentleman, I discovered that the managers
of the workhouse kept in view the idea that paupers were
naturally inclined to avoid work ; but the interests of the
institution demanded that it should be rendered impossible.
We examined their sleeping apartments. They were extraor-
dinarily neat and tolerably well ventilated. They were all fur-
nished with good bedsteads and good comfortable beds,
made of soft material, with clean bedding in abundant sup-
ply. The sleeping rooms contained, each, about thirty-two
single beds, arranged in rows on each side, the rows being
about fifteen feet apart.

We visited the buildings and apartments appropriated to
the women. We were ushered into a spacious room, where
I viewed with astonishment a most indescribable scene. With
a feeling of profound respect, I uncovered my head. Two
hundred tidily dressed, venerable appearing, gray-haired
matrons, seated on benches of two rows extending the whole
length of the extensive apartment, were plying their needles,
knitting stockings in solemn silence. What a spectacle I
Some of these unfortunate mothers of men once moved in
the circles of wealth and fashion, ere the cruel floods of
adversity engulphed them beneath their seething billows.

We were conducted into other buildings and apartments
for women. In one of these about twenty paupers were
seated around a table enjoying their tea with bread and
butter. We passed through a lengthy hall containing
numerous rooms, in each of which were two single beds and
a coal grate, designed for two women, who were furnished
weekly with provisions, instead of having it dealt out daily,
according to general regulations. We visited the washing
and drying departments, where a battalion of women in a

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 21

fog of steam were engaged in washing immense quantities of
sheets, shirts, blankets, etc., for the entire institution. They
had an ingenious arrangement for drying by the application
of steam. We were conducted into the apartment tor cut-
ting garments, another for making them up. We also visited
one appropriated to pauper children, where we saw a nice lot
of them, some very pretty and intelligent looking, all clean
and well dressed, and many of them orphans, some entirely
ignorant of their parentage, being foundlings. I noticed with
peculiar interest one lovely infant, which had recently been
found one stormy night, abandoned. Poor little forsaken I
Why not have waited or sought your path into life by way of
Utah, where you would have been recognized and appre-
ciated ?

We next visited the hospital department. Two hundred
and seventy were on the sick list, mostly very elderly peo-
ple. The hospital consisted of numerous rooms with an
average of thirty single beds. Many of the invalids had
been confined to their beds for several years, their diseases
affording no prospects of recovery. In a frame a record is
suspended over each sufferer, giving name, age, with date of
reception into workhouse, nature oi disease, and how treated
and dieted. Excellent nurses are provided for these sufferers.

The largest dining hall seats 800. In this, every Sabbath,
Roman Catholic service is performed. An Episcopal church
constitutes a portion of this mass of buildings ; it is well
seated and has a fine organ.

I noticed, as a matter of curiosity, a marble statue repre-
senting an angel with extended wings. It was carved at
Leghorn and placed here to honor and perpetuate the memory
of Agnes Jones, a wealthy lady, daughter of an Irish Colonel.
This estimable and philanthropic woman devoted her large
fortune to the relief of the poor, and while administering to
the sufferers in this institution she contracted a contagious
disease, of which she died at the age of thirty-six years. A

22 C O R E E S P O N D E N C E OF

beautiful epitaph is inscribed upon lier monument, written
by the Bishop of Derby, and also lines with deep expression
by Florence Nightingale.

Finally we came to apartments appropriated to vaga-
bonds. Here philanthropy exhibited itself upon a higher
plane. A bath, supper and breakfast, could be obtained by
any vagrant outside of Liverpool parish. To obtain these
benefits, the participant must enter the register's office, have
his name registered, then be conducted to the bath-room,
where he undergoes a thorough process, to wit, stripped,
soaked, soaped, and scrubbed, and having his clothes
replaced, is served to a dish of soup, then admitted to a clean
cot for the night. For these services he is required to render
compensation in labor in the morning, after which he receives
another dish of soup and departs. This department is never
crowded.

We were introduced to Mr. Wilkie, the Governor of
the Workhouse, with whom we had an interesting interview.
On our leaving he politely proffered to send to my address
written information on any point I might wish in relation to
the institution.

My "Two hours in a Workhouse," constitutes a very
interesting item in my experience.

LORENZO SNOW.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 23

LETTER X.

Crossing the Hudson— Visit to West Point— Trophies of War— Putnam's
Fort— Tete-a-tete with a Student— Information about Palestine— Leave
New York.

Liverpool, England, November 20tli, 1872.
Editor Woman's Exponent:

My Dear Lula: — In my last, I left you at Central Park
in New York. Early next morning, (5tli of Nov.,) in com-
pany of Brother Feramorz Little, Sister Little, Clara S. Little
and her little brother Frank, also Brother Spencer Clawson, I
took the cars for West Point, where we arrived at 10 a. m.,
after crossing the beautiful Hudson River on a steam ferry-boat.

West Point is a delightful point. The natural scenery
is variegated and imposing. Having one hour to while away
before we could have an interview with the object of our
visit, Mr. Willard Young, we strolled around the premises,
viewing the objects of interest, and some tilings, which to
us, promoters of peace, were not particularly interesting.
Great numbers of cannon, of various forms and sizes, were to
be seen in different places— some from Mexico, others from
the Crimea, preserved as specimens ; also a portion of the
ponderous iron chain whicli the Americans stretched across
the Hudson, in the Revolutionary war, to impede the British
ships. I admired the beautiful green area, with its fine shade
trees, surrounded by rugged hills ; on the top of the highest,
in the distance, Putnam's Fort is to be seen, which is said to
remain precisely as the veteran General, whose name it bears,

24 CORRESPONDEXCE OF

built, and left it. The next hour was very pleasantly spent
in a tete-a-tete with the young military student, whom we
found in good health and spirits, and returned to New York
at 4 p. m.

That evening Mr. Richardson and lady called on us ; he
has been a traveller in Palestine and gave us much interesting
information respecting it. Before we left New York, the
number in the hotel, from Utah, amounted to twenty.

ELIZA R. SNOW.

LETTER XI

On Board the " Minnesota"— First Sight of the Ocean— Arrival inLiverpool—
Dense, Interminable Fog— Leave for London— English Railway Cars —
No Sleeping Cars — English Rural Scenery — Poem, " London," by Miss
E. R. Snow.

London, England, November 24th, 1872.
Editor Woman's Exponent:

Dear Lula : — I wrote you from Liverpool up to our last
evening in New York.

On the morning of the 6th we went on board the steamer
Minnesota, and, through tlie kindness of Brother W. C.
Staines, were very comfortably quartered, and soon launclied
forth into the Hudson and from thence into the broad ocean.

I saw the ocean for the first time, and was in nothing so
disappointed as its color, which is, when calm, dark, very
dark, yes, positively black, and to me appeared like a mass
of ]ava. I wanted to look at it poetically, and watched
intently for "blue waves," or even '^green waves," but to no

PALESTINE TOUKISTS. 25

purpose, except when the waters were stirred, then, beneath
the white foam, the bine, and more particularly the green,
were observable. I was but little sea-sick, and although our
■passage was rougli, I enjoyed it. It was raining w^hen we
arrived in Liverpool on the morning of the 19th. Tlie North-
western Hotel, where we stopped, is a iinely constructed
building, with many accommodations, but is conducted
altogether too ceremoniously to consult convenience and com-
fort. We stayed two days in the dense, interminable fog of
Liverpool, where they have more light by night from gas
than the sun affords them by day.

The first day I spent in writing, with a very agreeable
and interesting visit to the sanctum of President Carrington ;
on the second, a severe cold prevented my visiting the work-
house, as I had anticipated, a sketch of which my brother
Lorenzo has written to the Deseret News.

We left Liverpool for London by train at 9 a.m., and
arrived at 2 p. m.— two hundred and three miles. The cars
in England, instead of being open from end to end and the
seats all in one view, as in America, are petitioned into boxes
containing two seats, the first-class seating six persons, three
on each seat, face to face ; ai=id tlie second-class eight, four
on each seat. These compartments open only on the out-
side, so that there is no communication between the diiferent
sections. Here the distances are so short compared with
those of Americi that sleeping* cars are not in use.

I was deliglited with the appearance of the country
between Liverpool and this city. Even at this sterile season
of the year it is picturesque, and must be very, very beautiful
when the fields, which are enclosed by scrupulously neat
hedges, are clothed with fresh vegetation.

With this brief letter, I will enclose a poem I have just
written, entitled

26 C 0 E R E S P O N D E N C E OF

LONDON

Far, far away from our dear native land,

In England's great Metropolis we stand ;

Where art and skill — labor and wealth combine

With time's cooperation in design

Of superstructure's bold and beauteous form,

With all varieties of strength and charm.

Here massive columns — stately towers, arise,
And lift their spires in greetings to the skies ;
Fine parks and gardens, palaces and halls.
With sculptured niches — frescoe-painted walls ;
Where no expense is spared to beautify,
Nor time, nor toil, to captivate the eye.
We saw, and viewing, courteously admired
The master strokes by Genius' hand inspired.

To "Xew Westminster Palace" we resort.
Where the Chief Justice holds his au.gust court ;
'Twas then in session, and the Exchequer too —
In wig and gown — a grand, imposing view !
The House of Lords and Commons too , we saw,
But not those grave expounders of the law.

With deferential thought we fixed ovir gaze.
There, in the "Prince's Hall," where face to face
On either side, on carved projections stood,
With features varied as in life's warm blood,
White marble statues, from the sculj^tor's hand,
Of British Statesmen, men who could command
The power of eloquence — the force of mind,
A mighty nation's destinies to bind^
Chatham, Pitt, Granville, Walpole, Fox, beside
Others who're justly England's boast and pride.

We visited the "Abbey," Avhere repose in state
The eflflgies of many good and great,
With some whose deeds are well deserving hate.
Group'd in the "Poets' Corner," here, we found,
With rich, artistic sculpture trophies crown'd.
The mem'riesof the muse's world-renowned.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 27

In some compartments where old massive stones
Comprise the flooring, lie their mouldering bones,
And we with reverential footsteps tread
Above the ashes of the illustrious dead.

Great London City, mart of wealth and power,

Home for the wealthy — charnel for the poor !

And here, amid its boasted pomp and pride.

Some faithful Soldiers of the Cross reside —

A few choice spirits, whom the watchman's care.

By humble search, found scatter' d here and there,

"Like angels' visits, few and far between,"

As patient gardeners sep' rate clusters glean.

They barter earth's allurements and device

To gain the "Pearl" of great and matchless price.

And what to them the honors, pride and show.

That perish with their using, here below ?

Their hopes are high— their noble aims extend

Where life and peace and progress never end ;

Where God's own Kingdom Time's last knell survives,

Crowned with the gifts and powers of endless lives.

ELIZA R. SNOW.

28 CORRESPONDENCE OF

LETTER XII

A Conference— Passed Queenstown— Arrival at Liverpool— Scattering of the
Members of the Party — Arrival in London — The Albert Memorial —
The Princess Theatre— Houses of Parliament — Under-ground Railway —
Attend Meetings — George J. Adams and the Holy Land.

London, England, November 24th, 1872.

Editor Deseret News:

Dear Brother : — Having just returned from the confer-
ence held to-day, at East India Dock Road, to our boarding
house, I feel like dropping you a few lines. We passed
Queenstown on the 18th inst., at 4 a. m., and reached Liver-
pool on the 19th at 1.30 a. m. Brother Carrington with his
son Brigham, Brothers Bleak, Gibbs and a few others, came
alongside the Minnesota in a tug boat at 7 a. m., to bid us
welcome, and we were very glad to meet them. After taking
breakfast with them, we went ashore, soon got through with
the examination of our luggage, and drove to the ''North
Western Hotel," opposite St. George's Hall, where we found
good and comfortable quarters, and felt thankful to be on
terra firma again. We spent the rest of the day and the
day following partly at "42" and partly in attending to busi-
ness matters and making other preparations for our further
journey.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 29

Brother Dunford went to Trowbridge, Wilts, to visit his
friends, and Sister Tliompson, wlio is still with us, went to
Preston for the same purpose. Thursday the 21st, at 9.15 a.
m., Brothers George A. Smith, Lorenzo Snow and Feramorz
Little, and Sisters Eliza R. Snow, Clara S. Little, Mercy
Thompson, and myself took train for London where we
arrived at 2.30 p. m. and put up at Mr. Cook's boarding
house, opposite the British Museum, which is a very quiet
place. Brother Junius Wells met us at Willsden Junction
and is now stopping with us.

On the morning of the 22nd a few of us called at Mr.
Cook's office, but his son was out of town, and we intend to
meet him to-morrow and see if we can make any satisfactory
arrangements with him. We have seen several parties who
have been travelling with his coupons, and under his arrange-
ments, who speak very favorably of him. About noon we
drove to the Albert Memorial in Hyde Park, which is a very
fine specimen of art and workmanship, but as the weather
was very wet and unpleasant we gave up the further part of
our programme for that day, and returned to our lodgings.
In the evening five of our party, with Brother George Crismon,
visited the Princess' Theatre, and saw "Hamlet" performed
in very fine style. Yesterday we visited the Houses of Parlia-
ment and Westminster Abbey, Westminster Bridge, and
thence, per under -ground railway, to Charing Cross and Tra-
falgar Square. The evening we spent writing up our journals.
This morning at 8.45 we drove to the Conference meeting
house. East India Dock Road, five miles distant, and had two
higlily interesting meetings, at 10 a. m. and 2 p. m. Most of
the Elders made short remarks, and President George A.
Smith and Elder Lorenzo Snow delivered very interesting
discourses to the Saints and to quite a sprinkling of strangers,
who were present.

At the close of the meeting George J. Adams, of former
notoriety, came on the stand to see President George A. Smith,

30 CORRESPONDENCE OF

and gave us an invitation to call on him, in order to give us
some useful information in regard to the Holy Land, where
he has resided.

We are all well and in fine spirits.
Yours truly,

PAUL A. SCHETTLER.

LETTER XIII

In London— Full Description of the National Monument— The Grandest
Monument in the World— One Hundred and Eighty Feet High— Its
Construction— Mass of Concrete— Substructure of Brick— The Podium-
One Hundred and Eighty Marble Statues— The Tabernacle— Lofty Spire
set with Thousands of Gems— Embossed Globe— Statue of Prince Albert
—Faith, Hope, Charity and Humility.

London, England, November 28th, 1872.
Editor Deseret News:

In company with President Smith and party I visited the
Prince Consort National Monument. It is situated in Ken-
sington Gardens, in the central part of the Metropolis. It is
designed to perpetuate the name of Prince Albert, also to
show the high estimation in which he was held by the British
nation, likewise to represent allegorically, by sculpture and
Mosaic pictures, the arts and sciences which he fostered, and
to point to some of his important undertakings, the Great
National Exhibition being the foremost.

For grandeur of design and excellency and beauty of
workmanship I believe it e>:cels every other structure of a
commemorative character in any part of the world. In ap-

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 31

proacliing it I. was struck with astonishment by its beauty
and magnificence. A vast column, covered from base to
pinnacle, with beautiful sculptures, rich carvings, embossed
and Mosaic work of the most elegant description, beautiful
foliage of beaten metal, fine enameling, the whole being set
out in artistical order with twelve thousand gems sparkling
like stars in the firmament.

This monument, including the foundation, rises one hun-
dred and eighty feet above the surrounding ground, termi-
nating in a large ball, embossed, supporting a magnificent
cross. It commences with a mass of concrete sixty feet
square, seventeen feet thick, overlaid with two courses of
thick stone ; upon this is erected a substructure of massive
brick work, upon which the great column is based. The
base of this column or " podium," as it is termed, is about
twelve feet high, surrounded by one hundred and eighty
marble statues about six feet in height, representing men of
all ages, distinguished in the arts and sciences. This podi-
um, built of massive blocks of granite, forms the foundation
for the " Shrine" or Tabernacle, a vast canopy about fifty feet
high, richly ornamented, beneath which, upon a lofty
pedestal, will be placed the colossal statue of the Prince.
This Tabernacle is supported by four clusters of pillars of
finely polished granite of various colors. Several of these
pillars are two feet in diameter, held together, in part, by an
ornamental band of bronze set with polished "gem-like
stones;" and in part are cemented by a dove-tail groove to
the central core, around which they cluster. The Tabernacle
is terminated by four gables ornamented with Mosaic pictures
and decorated with carvings and enamel work and polished
gem-like stones, some of them nearly four inches in diame-
ter. Upon this tabernacle is reared a lofry spire of cast iron
work, ornamented in the most magnificent style and set
with thousands of gems. Out from this Tabernacle, near its
angles, arise four small structures built in imitation, in many

32 C 0 R R E S P O N L> E X 0 E OF

respects, of the principal one, being enriclied and highly
ornamented from base to pinnacle. This column, or spire,
the same as the Tabernacle which forms its base, is sur-
rounded with statues at successive heights, standing in its
ornamented niches, and at their angles.

Four of these figures, standhig in niches above the base
of tht, -spire, are eight and a half feet high, the four at the
angles are seven and a half in heiglit; far above them, the
spire is flanked by statues six and a half feet high, repre-
senting angels; and still higher, other figures six feet in
height with a like representation. These sixteen statues are
all of copper.

This lofty spire is crowned with a magnificent globe,
beautifully embossed, supporting a great cross highly orna-
mented.

A vast pyramid of granite steps surrounds this monu-
ment. The total length of these steps is equal to two miles
and a half, and the number of steps is eighteen hundred
and three. Several of the blocks of granite in the base of
the column and in the pillars weigh fifteen tons each ; the
working of each of these stones occupied twelve men sixteen
weeks. The iron girders which bear the spire weigh twenty-
three tons, and the weight resting upon them is two hundred
and ten tons. The spire is made of iron built up in stages
and bolted together ; the girders are of wrouglit iron. The
gems and inlays are formed of vitreous enamel, spar, agates
and onyxes, more than twelve thousand in number ; two
hundred of these are real onyxes, many of them nearly four
inches in diameter.

The genera] features of the design are thus delineated :
The Prince is to be represented by a colossal statue seated
upon a lofty pedestal beneath this magnificent canop}^;
around and above him are gath^^red in series and in groups
the most beautiful works of man, illustrating the arts and
sciences which he promoted, and the subjects to which he

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 33

devoted his attention. Upon foar large pedestals, composed
of blocks of granite, at the outer angle of the steps, the four
quarters of the globe are represented by groups of marble
statues. Upon the pedestal forming the angles of the podium,
or base of the Tabernacle, are groups of marble statues illus-
trative of Agriculture, Manufactures, Commerce and Engin-
eering. Again, still above, on pedestals of polished granite,
are statues in bronze, representing Astronomy, Chemistry,
Geology and Geometry. Above these is another set or order
of bronze statues representing Rhetoric, Medicine, Philoso-
phy and Physiology. The four sides of the podium contain
one hundred and eighty marble statues, representing emi-
nent artists in Printing, Sculpture, Architecture, Music and
Poetry. From the base to the roof of this Tabernacle, the
vrhole range of arts and sciences is illustrated. The column
above is devoted to illustrating Virtue and Religion. The four
statues in the niches of the spire, point to the Christian vir-
tues— Faith, Hope, Cliarity and Humility. The four figures
at ther angles represent the moral virtues — Fortitude, Pru-
dence, Justice and Temperance. The four angels above them
are in attitudes signifying resignation of worldly honors,
while those above, surrounding the base of the cross, are in
attitudes as if desiring celestial happiness.

Here, I will close my sketch of this curious and wonderful
specimen of intellectual and physical effort, so happily and
beautifully displayed in this magnificent monumental struc-
ture.

LORENZO SNOW.

34 CORRESPONDEXCE OF

LETTER XIV

Description of the Tower of London — When Built — Queen Elizabeth's Ar-
mory—Cell of Sir Walter Raleigh, Ralstone, &c. — The Horse Armory —
Coats of Mail and Weapons of Different Ages— Torture Rooms— Ann
Boleyn — Earl of Essex — Lady Jane Grey — Executioner's Axe — Instru-
ments of Torture — Regalia and Jewel House.

London, England, November 30tli, 1872.
Editor Deseret News:

If one wishes to indulge in melanchoh' or the sympa-
thetic, he should visit the "Tower of London," and devote
an hour or two in examining its mouldering records and
crumbling inscriptions, pointing to heart-rending scenes en-
acted in j)ast ages within its dark and gloomy walls.

In comi)any with President Smith and others of our
tourists, I visited this place, although not for the purpose
above mentioned.

It is a sombre mass, consisting principally of antique
walls, gates, portcidlis, bastions, moat and twelve towers.
None of the excellency, beauty, splendor and grandeur is
exhibited in these structures as is seen in Prince Albert's
Monument. Simplicity and solidity are characteristics of its
architecture ; I was impressed with no other, with the excep-
tion of oppressive gloominess.

About thirteen acres are enclosed by the moat surrounding
the Tower and a double line of walls and bulwarks encircles
inside the moat, with a street running between, except on the
south.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 35

The White Tower, or citiidel, the most important edifice,
occupies the central part of these ^jremises. It is one hun-
dred and sixteen feet by ninety-six, and ninety-two in height,
Avith walls fifteen feet in thickness. It was built in the latter
part of the eleventh century, nearly eight hundred years ago,
and is a specimen of Norman architecture. It is divided
from base to summit into various compartments by walls
seven feet in thickness. The smallest apartment is now
occupied by what is termed Queen Elizabeth's armory. On
one side of this room, formed in the wall, is a cell eight feet
by ten, without light except at its entrance — formerly the
prison of Sir Walter Raleigh, Eal stone, Fane and Culpepper.
Above this apartment is St. John's Chapel, another specimen
of Norman architecture. A chaplain was formerly engaged
to perform service here for about twelve dollars per annum.
The most spacious room on the upper floor, in tbrmer ages
was used by the king as a council room, where their courts
were held. It is said to have teen here that, when the coun-
cil was assembled, the Duke of Gloucester demanded Lord
Hastings' immediate execution. This chamber and the ban-
queting room are used at the present time as depositories for
small arms. Grreat artistical skill is displayed in the arrange-
ment of some of these arms and their implements, in form of
floors, aquatic plants appearing in streams of water, lumi-
nous stars and the sun rising in splendor.

We were conducted to the Horse Armory, which is nearly
one hundred and fifty feet in length by thirty-four in breadth,
filled with objects of curiosity and historical interest. There
were equestrian figures, others on foot, dressed in armor of
diflerent periods embracing over two and a half centuries.
It is curious to trace the development of the idea relating to
armor and weapons, as exhibited in the multitude of those
specimens. The conception in its perfect development, in
regard to armor, was strikingly illustrated by a full suit on
a life-sized ef^gy of Henry the VHI, mounted on a horse.

36 COREESPONDENCE OF

This suit of armor was made of plated metal artistically
arranged in sections overlapping one another, and turning
upon pivots so as to afford the body, head, neck and limbs
free motion, without exposing any portion. It is ponderous,
weighing, as nearly as I recollect, about one hundred and
twenty pounds. This armor is elaborately worked— inlaid
with gold and very beautiful. We were shown a rough suit
he wore at the age of eighteen, which weighed ninety-two
pounds.

The first specimens of armor manifested the idea as
rather confused : leather cut in pieces in the form of fish
scales and sewed on cloth or deer skins. The next stage of
development appears in a specimen made of small rings of
steel sewed on to the same material. Again, in the begin-
ning of the thirteenth century, a higher point ot develop-
ment was reached— armor was constructed of vast quantities
of small rings intersecting one with another so as to form a
connected garment. After this, another improvement was
introduced— mixed chain and plate being worn on the arms
and legs. And thus invention progressed to its full develop-
ment as represented at the period of Henry the VIII.

We saw various specimens of weapons invented at dif-
ferent periods, commencing with the cross-bow, the spear
and battle axe, exhibiting step by step successive improve-
ments represented in the matchlock, improved matchlock,
flintlock, improved flintlock, percussion lock, improved per-
cussion, double-barreled gun, improved double-barrel, revolv-
ing cylinder, cylinder improved, until we have reached the
most perfect weapon now known.

The twelve towers of this fortress were erected, princi-
pally, in the early part of the thirteenth century ; some of
them, however, were built about the close of the eleventh
century. The strange scenes enacted in past ages, beneath
these frowning battlements, form a dark and bloody page in
English history. Observing the multitude of objects bearing

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 37

distinct marks of those terrible events, my mind was almost
overpowered with sad and gloomy reflections. In these
dark and loathsome dungeons, kings and queens, after liav-
ing been divested of their crowns and robes of royalty, were
forced to make their ignominious abode.

These walls bear traces of having echoed the sighs and
groans of illustrious men while gasping for life beneath the
bloody instruments of horrid torture, also of princes and
nobles having been thrust into these dungeons and ended
their lives by means shrouded in mystery ! Tradition speaks
of secret passages, of torture rooms and hidden recesses
within and underneath these walls where I stood. Many
eminent personages left inscriptions upon their prison walls,
which 3^et remain — sad mementoes of themselves and their
sufferings, Queen Ann, having enjoyed a few years of
pomp and splendor, basking in the smiles of Henry the
Eighth, was forced to exchange queenly habiliments for the
prison costume, in which she passed from this loathsome
captivity to the executioner's block. Queen Elizabeth's favor-
ite, the Earl of Essex, the pride of the English court, was
immured within one of these towers previous to being be-
headed upon the scaffold. The beautiful, amiable and ac-
complished Lady Jane Grey was incarcerated here. '*Jane,"
engraved by Lord Dudley, her unfortunate husband, on the
stone walls of his prison, which I saw, reminded me forcibly
of the melancholy circumstance. Two princes, sons of
Edward the Fourth, while suffering captivity in what is
termed " the bloody tower," were secretly murdered, and
afterwards their bodies found mouldering beneath its walls.

We were shown the executioner's axe, the heading
block, thumb-screws, iron collars and other horrid instru-
ments for human torture. We were conducted to a small
enclosure, surrounded with iron pailings, where many illus-
trious men and women of distinction and royalty had been
privately executed.

38 COKEESrONDENCE OF

Omitting many objer^ts of interest, perceiving my letter
becoming lengthy, I will close by noticing the "Regalia" as
a strange contrast with what has been described. The
*'Jewel House" is a building of modern construction, within
the enclosure of these ramparts, and contains the " Crown
Jewels." There is a magnificent display of crowns, diadems
and sceptres embellished with pearls, rubies, emeralds, dia-
monds and sapphires, together with Edward's staff of beaten
gold, over four feet in length, added to which are the '^swords
of justice," temporal and ecclesiastical, and the pointless
*' sword of mercy."

LORENZO SNOW.

LETTER XV

A Week in London— Sight-seeing— Visiting— Attending Conference— Theatres
—Crystal Palace— The Grand Aquarium— Tower of London — " Man's
Inhumanity to Man" — Going to Rotterdam.

London, England, November 28th, 1872.
Editoe Deseret News:

We have been in London one week. We have divided
our tune among the various occupations of resting from our
Yojage across the sea, sight-seeing, visiting the brethren, call-
ing upon gentlemen who have visited Utah, attending Lon-
don Conference with the Saints, and a concert got up b}^ them,
studying to obtain information concerning the further pro-
gress of our journey, attending theatres, etc.

Our several calls, without exception, have been pleasant
and agreeable.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 39

On the 26th we spent th- day very pleasantly in the
Crystal Palace, in company with Pn^sident Albert Carrington,
Elders John B. Fairbanks, BrigUam Carrington, David O.
Calder, Erastus W. Snow, Samuel S. Jones, Junius F.
Wells, Elijah A. Box, James G. Bleak, George F. Gibbs,
Charles H. Wilcken, Newell Clayton, John Neff, Anson Call,
Mark Lindsey, David Cazier, John Bennion, missionaries from
Utah, Brother Scofield of the Manchester Branch, Sister Mercy
K. Thompson, President Lorenzo Snow, and his Sister Eliza
R., Feramorz Little and his daughter Clara, Paul A. Schettler,
Thomas W. Jennings, visiting and examining the curiosities
that have been collected in this magnilicent structure. It
would require weeks, perhaps months, to make even a par-
tial examination of the specimens of nature and art that are
here on exhibition, including statuary, paintings, numerous
varieties of mar^hinery, clothing, furniture, rare plants — na-
tive and exotic, representations of diflerent nations in their
native surroundings, etc.

The Aquarium exhibited here, presents to the eye speci-
mens of the mysteries of the deep. A considerable variety
of fish, in all stages of existence, moving in their own ele-
ment, carefully fed and nourished, is a recent addition of
much interest. Most of the same party visited the "Tower
of London," rife with gloomy historic reminiscences, and
when we left we mutually felt like exclaiming with the poet,
^' Man's inhumanity to man."

We are making arrangements to leave England for Rot-
terdam on the 30th.

Yours, etc

GEORGE A. SMITH.

40 COREESPONDENCE OP

LETTER XVI.

At Rotterdam— Programme of Travel— Antwerp— Brussels— Paris— Lyons-
Marseilles — jSTice — Genoa— Turin — Milan— Venice— Bologna — Florence —
Rome &c.

New Bath Hotel, Eotterdam, Holland,

December 5th, 1872.

George Q. Cannon, Esq., Salt Lake City,

Dear Brother: — My time is so completely occupied in
attending to the business and traveling arrangements of our
party, that it is impossible for me to send you further corres-
pondence, but Brother Lorenzo Snow kindly volunteered to
attend to it.

We are all well, enjoy ourselves very much, and in-
tend to leave here for Antwerp to-morrow at 10.10 a. m. On
the 8th int^t. we shall reach Brussels, and at Paris we intend
to make a stay from the 11th to the 18th inst., at Lyons the
20th, Marseilles 24th, Nice 25th, Genoa 27th, Turin 29th,
Milan Jan. 1st, 1873, Venice Jan. 3rd, Bologna Jan. 9th,
Florence 10th, Rome ICth to 24th, Naples 26th to 30th,
from Brindisi to Corfu Jan. 31st, Alexandria Feb. 7th, Cairo
23, Jafla 26th, Beyrout March 23rd, Constantinople March
31st, Athens April 5th, Trie&te April 19th. Should we stay six
weeks in Palestine instead of four weeks, the last four dates
will be two weeks later each.

Remember us kindly to Presidents Young and Wells,
and to all inquiring friends.

Yours truly in the Gospel.

PAUL A. SCHETTLER.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 41

LETTER XVII

Amsterdam — The Hague — Haarlem — Description of Rotterdam — Jews,
Catholics, Protestants— Canals— Church of St. Lawrence— Public Schools
—Fighting Old Ocean — Windmills and Steam Engines — Calamity at
Dort— The Hague Described— Mode of Keeping Back the Waters— The
Museum— Masterpieces of Dutch Painters— " The House in the Wood"
— An Evening -with the American Minister.

Amsterdam, Holland, December 5tli, 1872.
Editor Deseret News:

We, President Smith and party, are now located at ^' Old
Bible Hotel" in the city of Amsterdam. We reached Rotter-
dam, Sunday, 1st December, having left London the previous
evening. Tuesday we visited the Hague, Wednesday re-
sumed our journey for this place, calling a few hours at
Haarlem, and arrived here in the afternoon.

I now make a few extracts from my journal, beginning
at Rotterdam. Our Hotel is pleasantly located— fronting a
beautiful quay extending one and a half miles, bordering an
extensive harbor, bearing on its placid bosom ships of the
largest tonnage from the fo\ir quarters of the globe.

The city of Rotterdam is situated on the river Maas ;
it is the second commercial city in Holland, numbering one
hundred and twenty thousand inhabitants, Jews, Catholics
and Protestants. It is intersected by numerous canals of
sufficient depth to accommodate large ships, Avhich discharge
their valuable burdens into the very heart of the city, pro-
ducing stir and life truly wonderful, which render the same
very picturesque. A city filled with canals— floating ships

42 CORRESPONDENCE OF

in all directions— to strangars presents a romantic app:^ar-
ance, exciting surprise and admiration. Tliese canals are
crossed by numerous drawbridges. The city is remarkably
clean and orderly, considering its immense commerce and
business. We visited the church of "St. Lawrence," con-
taining several splendid marble monuments of Dutch heroes,
bearing old Dutch inscriptions, whi'^h I regret to say baffled
our best linguists. It has a magnificent organ with three
key boards, seventy-two stops, four thousand and sixty-two
pipes, the largest being thirty-two feet long and seven-
teen inches in diameter. This organ is supposed, by some,
to equal if not surpass the famous instrument at Haarlem.
The tower of this church is two hundred and eighty-eiglit
feet in height ; its summit affords a fine view of Dut^h scenery
—canals bordered with trees, country houses, straight aven-
ues, broad arable fields, green pastures and meadows, form-
ing a plane with no perceptible inclination ; also numerous
windmills, in motion, in every direction.

Rotterdam has several public schools. We saw eleven
hundred children belonging to one of them of from four to
eleven years of age. We remarked that their countenances
failed to exhibit those characteristics of health and long3vity
observable in the children of our Utah schools.

The Hollanders possess indomitable energy and perseve-
rance. By untiring industry, towns and cities have been
built upon trembling morasses, lakes and seas rolled from
their beds giving place to cultivated fields, green pastures
and beautiful meadows. Portions of seas and lakes have
been intersected and surrounded by dykes or embankments
and the water pumped out by steam engines and windmills.
This reclaimed land is intersected by canals and sects at
suitable distances, taking advantage of every perceivable in-
chnation, dead levels being the characteristic of the country,
and yet the most formidable enemy a Dutchman has to com-
bat. The main canals are continued through the country to

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 43

some river, inlet or the ocean. In every instance the surface
waters from a lower plane are conducted, into canals running
on a higher elevation, by windmills and steam engines, carry-
ing an immense amount of surplus water, wliich is constantly
gathering, especially in rainy seasons, out from these re-
claimed districts. This process imposes a heavy tax on the
wisdom and patience of the irrepressible Dutchman, initiat-
ing him imperatively into the practice of the mysteries of
hydraulics. In Utah, we labor to secure water for our lands;
here, the removal of it, and the preservation of life and prop-
erty from its overflow, is a national work, which involves an
almost infinitely greater amount of toil and expense. The
least neglect in their operations exposes the country to de-
vastation. In the province of Dort, in the fifteenth century,
seventy villages were overflowed and one hundred thousand
inhabitants destroyed.

From Rotterdam we proceeded to the Hague, containing
one hundred thousand inhabitants. It is the most elegant,
beautiful and fashionable town in Holland. It possesses no
internal resources or advantages of commerce, but to the
presence of the Court, and of numerous nobles and diploma-
tists, who make it their residence, it chiefly owes its aristo-
cratic and prosperous appearance. Many of its streets are
broad and handsome, bordered with beautiful trees ; its
buildings lofty and substantial. A magnificent basin of
water in the central part of the town, with an ornamental
island and flocks of white, graceful swans, is the most fash-
ionable locality.

The Hague and its environs are so flat that the waters in
the canals are destitute of fall ; this difficulty, however, is
overcome by artificial arrangement. A steam engine on the
Duenny pumps fresh water into the canal, by which an im-
perceptible current is formed, carrying a fiow towards Rot-
terdam, where it is pumped into the river Maas.

The Museum attracted our attention. It contains a fine

44 ■ CORRESPONDENCE OF

collection of curiosities in the lower part of the building, and
in the ui)per a picture gallery comprising specimens by the
most celebrated Dutch painters. I was so delighted with the
beauty and artistical display that I invested in an opera glass.
Our attention was attracted to a painting by Rembrandt,
representing a school of anatomy, possessing rare merit and
beauty of design and execution. This wonderful picture
was purchased for about thirteen thousand dollars, by King
William the First. It represents Professor Tulp, surrounded
by his anxious puj)ils, in the act of dissecting a corpse. The
subjer't perhaps is not very agreeable, but all of the figures,
the expression of their features, the death appearance of the
corpse, the whole was brought out with such profound skill
as to invest the painting with an irresistible charm.

Paul Potter's far-famed "bull," regarded as the gem of
the whole collection, also rivetted our attention. The French
carried it as a trophy to Paris and placed it among their pic-
tures in the Louvre, and considered it worthy to rank as
fourth in point of value. The Dutch government offered
Napoleon twenty thousand dollars for its restoration. We
were conducted through various departments appropriated to
objects of curiosity of various descriptions. I will merely
notice a model house constructed by order of Peter the Great
with the intention of taking it to Russia to present to the
Empress a view of the interior of a house in Amsterdam.
This model is reported to have cost about twelve thousand
dollars, and to have occupied twenty-five years in its comple-
tion.

We visited the Queen's palace, called " The House in the
Wood," very romantically situated in an extensive park.
We were conducted through the principal apartments. The
palace contains some excellent paintings, and magnificent
silk tapestry of exquisite needle work done by Chinese and
Japanese, representing birds of their country with their brill-
iant plumage, etc. This tapestry, we were informed by our

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 4o

conductor, was presented to the Stadtholder, William the
Fifth, by the Emperor of Japan.

After many expressions of admiration, and, by request,
having inscribed our names in the Queen's register, we pro-
ceeded to Scheveningen, a fashionable resort upon tlie sea
coast, and enjoyed a splendid drive, passing through groves
of majestic oak, elm and linden.

While at the Hague we called on Mr. Gorhani, the Amer-
ican Minister, who received us very cordially and insisted on
the whole party joining him at tea and spending the evening,
which invitation was accepted by President Smith in behalf ot
the party. Our interview in the evening with Mr. Gorham,
and his wife, a very intelligent, affable and accomplished
lady, was agreeable and entertaining, and will ever be asso-
ciated with the pleasant recollections of our visit to the beau-
tiful Hague.

LORENZO SNOW.

46 CORRESPONDENCE OF

LETTER XVIII.

Sight-seeing in Liverpool — Arrival in London — Albert Memorial — Houses of
Parliament— Westminster Abbey — Nelson Monument — Crystal Palace —
Theatres— Rotterdam — Table d'Hote— Visit to a Moravian Settlement —
The Hague— The Japanese Museum— Visit to the American Minister —
Haarlem— The Cathedral and Grand Organ, Imitation Thunder Storm —
Meeting with Saints — Amsterdam — Its Museum — The King's Palace —
Visit the Navy Yard— Leave for Rotterdam— Cross the Maas— Enter
Belgium — Catholic Marriage Ceremony — Programme of Travel.

Hotel de l'Europe, Antwerp, Belgium,

December 6th, 1872.

Editors Salt Lake Herald:

You will certainly think that my letters are few and far
between, but I have been so much engaged with our travel-
ling arrangements, that I really could not find time to write
ere this.

We arrived in good health and spirits at Liverpool;
spent two days there in looking around the city and preparing
ourselves for our further journey ; left for London, Nov. 21st,
at 9.15 a. m., and arrived at Euston Station at 2.30 p. m. We
put up at Mr. Thomas Cook's boarding house, No. 59 Great
Russel Street, opposite the British Museum, where we were
comfortably quartered. During our nine days stay in London
we visited the Albert Memorial in Hyde Park, the Houses of
Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Traftilgar Square with the
Nelson Column, The Union Bank, Sydenham Crystal
Palace, Dr. Anger's College in Regent Park, and Dr. Jabez
Burns and his Baptist Chapel. President George A. Smith

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 47

and myself also called at Mr. Hep worth Dixon's, but we did
not find him at home. Of the principal theatres we visited
Covent Gardens, Drury Lane and Princess'. On the day
which we spent at Sydenliam Palace we were accompanied
by President Albert Carrrington and about a dozen Elders,
some from the Liverpool office and otliers who had come to
see us. Saturday, the 30th, at 9.55 p. m., we left per train
for Harwich, where we arrived at 12.30 a. m. on December
1st. We wi;nt on board the steamer Richard Young^ left
Harwich at 2.30 a. m., and arrived after rather a rough pas-
sage at Rotterdam at 2.30 p. m., put up at the New Bath
Hotel, onder de hoompjes, as the Dutch call it, and enjoyed
the first table d''hote after the European plan, having from eight
to ten different dishes served at intervals of about ten minutes.
This gives to almost ever^'^ epicure a chance to find something
that will tickle his palate, and we all much preferred it to the
American " bolting " system. Six of our party skipped at Rot-
terdam to see the sights, and to witness the enormous amount
of business which is transacted here every day in receiving
and shipping merchandise from and to all parts of the world.
The greatest vessels can go right in front of the warehouses
in the heart of the city. Holland imports most of the pro-
ductions of its possessions in raw material, and after manu-
facturing them ships the surplus to other countries.

President George A. Smith and myself left Rotterdam
the same evening at 6.40 for Zeist, a Moravian settlement
near Utrecht, where some of my relatives reside. We reached
there at 9 p. m., and after providing for the comforts of Pres-
ident Smith at the hotel of the place, I went to see one of my
uncles, Mr. E. C. Martin, who with his wife received me in
the most cordial manner. Next morning President Smith
and myself were shown through Mr. Martin's extensive
factory of white china, heating stoves and house ornaments
of burnt clay. We then visited the " house of the bretliren, "
where the unmarried men of the Moravian Church live, and

48 CORRESPONDENCE OF

went tlirongh a number of tlieir stores, where tliey sell all
kinds of merchandise, partly of their own manufacture, each
diff 'rent kind of goods in a separate room, M^Licli is unlocked
for each visiting party, and locked again as soon as they
leave that room. The outside door of the building is also
locked, and if a person wishes to make purchases he has to
ring the bell to be admitted. We then visited some of my
old friends, and one of them, Mr. Muller, though being sick,
had us immediately ushered into his room, and introduced
us to his family. This gave President Smith an opportunity
to see these peoj)le in their own houses, and learn more of
their habits than he could have done otherwise. We also
visited another uncle of mine, Mr. Adolphus Menzel, who
received us very cordially ; and he speaking English toler-
ably well. President Smith had about an hour's conversation
with him. His oldest daughter, Emilia, about eighteen years
old, is quite an intelligent girl, speaking English, French,
German, and Dutch, and playing the piano very well. Mrs.
Martin took us in the afternoon in a carriage to Utrecht, and
we passed many fine country seats, farmhouses, meadows,
etc.; she was only sorry that we could not stay longer, but
she and my uncle were exceedingly pleased with the visit of
President Smith, and I know that this visit will have good
results. We thence took rail to Rotterdam, and after visiting
the fine old Cathedral, met our friends again, all well and
enjoying themselves.

Next morning, December 8rd, we took train for the
Hague, the residence of the King of Holland, and visited the
Japanese Museum, and the Picture Gallery, with the cele-
brated paintings, '^ The Bull," by Paul Potter, and "Anatom-
ical Lessons," by Eembrandt. Then we called upon the
American Minister, Mr. Charles T. Gorham, Bellevue Hotel,
wlio received us very kindly, and invited all of us to take
tea with him at 8 p. m., which we. did, and spent a very
pleasant evening with him and his lady. In the afternoon

PALESTINE T O U E I S T S . 49

we also visited the celebrated " House in thj Woods " — Dutch
" t'huis ten bosh" — the residence of the Queen of Holland,
where we saw some very tine paintings by Rulens and his
scholars, and other objects of art. From there we drove to
the lishing village of Scheveningen, the Urand Bazar, and
back to our hotel. Next morning we departed for Amster-
dam, and stopped two hours at Haarlem, where we visited
the Cathedral which contains the large organ, that has 5,000
m3tal and 2,030 woaden pipv^s and sixty stops. VVe had
it played for an hour. Among other pieces, the organist
treated us with the imitation of a thunderstorm, which, as the
Dutch say, is played so effectively that the milk in all the
neighborhood turns sour. At 1.10 p. m. we arrived at Am-
sterdam, the capital of Holland, wliere we met Elder S. Van
Dyke, who now labors in this mission, and hj informed us
that he had made arrangements for a meeting with some ten
or twelve Saints at 10 p. m., as several had to work till nearly
that hour. President George A. Smith, and Brothers Little,
Dunford and myself attended, and we had a good little meeting
at Elder W. T. De Groot's house, an excellent spirit prevail-
ing. We all spoke a short time, and I translated for the
other brethren. President Smitli blessed and reconfirmed the
native priesthood, and we administered to some of the sisters
who were afflicted. The rest of our party did not go with us,
because they suffered from severe colds, but Sister Eliza R.
Snow called to see some of them the next forenoon, which
gave them muc;h satisfaction. Immediately after our arrival
in Amsterdam we visited the Museum and thi palace of the
King, on tlie square called " the Dam." The celebrated Ex-
change Buildings are also situated on the same square. On
th3 morning of the 5th we drove through the city and visited
the navy yards, called the "Marine," where we saw some
powerful machinery used for the building of monitors ; shears
that cut iron plates of half an inch thickness as if they were

50 CORRESPONDENCE OF

sheets of paper ; and punches that went through inch plates
of iron as if they were nothing but pasteboard.

At 2.80 p. m. we left for Rotterdam by a shorter route,
and arrived at 4 p. m. Friday, the 6th, at 10 a. m., we
crossed the river Maas, on the other side of which we took
train for Antwerp, which we reached afc 1. 10 p. m. At the
station where we entered into Belgium we had our luggage
examined. Soon after our arrival we visited the Cathedral,
which contains many of Rubens' celebrated paintings, and
also the vault in which he and his two wives are buried. In
going from there to the Church of St. James we passed
through the Exchange, which is a very handsome building.

Brussels, Belgium, December 8th, 1872.

At 1.18 p. m. we departed for Brussels, where we arrived
after one hour's ride, and called upon the American Minister,
Mr. J. Russell Jones, but he had not yet returned from the
United States, and was not expected before Christmas.

In the evening we took a stroll through some of the finest
streets of the city and visited some large bazars and arcades,
where merchants keep their goods displaj^ed under brilliant
gas-light to the best possible advantage. This morning we
visited a Catholic church and witnessed the ceremonies,
which were highly interesting to some of our party who had
never seen them.

Our programme is: To visit the battle field of Waterloo
to-morrow; leave for Paris on the 11th ; stay at Paris till the
morning of the 19th; at Lyons from the 20th to 22nd; at
Marseilles from 23rd to 24th; reach Nice the 25th; Genoa
26th; Turin 29th; Milan January 1, 1873; Venice from 3rd
to 8th; Bologna 9th ; Florence 10th to 13th ; Pisa 15th ; Rome
16th to 25th ; Naples 26th to 30th; Brindisi 31st of January,
and leave same evening per steamer for Corfu ; arrive at
Alexandria February 7th; Cairo Feb. 23rd; arrive at Jaflfe,

PALESTINE TOLTRISTS. 51

February 26th, where we commence our Palestine tour on
horseback till we reach Bejrout, March 23rd. Thence we go
per Austrian Lloj^d steamer to Constantinople, to reach tliere
March 81st, Athens April oth, and back to Trieste, April 10th,
1873. Should we, however, prolong our Palestine tour from
thirty to forty-two days, the last four dates will be two weeks
later each, because steamers leave Beyrout every two weeks
on Monday. We are all eiijojdng good health. I intend to
write you again before leaving Paris, if '.ime permits.

PAUL A. SCHETTLEE.

LETTER XIX

Sea-sickness — Rotterdam — Among the Moravians — The Canai System — The
Utrecht Cathedral— Beautiful Trees— Struggle for Mastery between Land
and Sea— The Hague — "House in the Wood"— Evening withMr.Gorham
and Lady — Haarlem — A Shot by the Spaniards — "Bible Hotel" — King's
Palace — Navy Yard — Building Iron-clad Monitors — The Cemetery —
Meeting with Saints— Baptisms — Enter Belgium — Antwerp Cathedral —
Paintings and Tomb of Rubens.

Antwerp, Belgium, December 6th, 1872.
President Brigham Young:

Most of our party suffered discomfort from sea-sickness
in crossing the German Ocean. I was sick about eight hours.
I lay on a lounge about two-thirds as broad as I am. I
turned over occasionally to keep my balance. As soon as
our party were fairly settled at the Bath Hotel at Rotterdam,
I started with Elder Paul A. Schettler to visit his relatives at
Zeist. They belong to a settlement of Moravians, a sect of
Christians who came to Holland from Germany in 1745, in

52 CORRESPONDENCE OF

order to obtain religious libeity. They purchased su:ficierit
land from the "Lord of Zeist" to build their houses and
church and a place for burying their dead.

The tine brick meeting house, ere-t-d in 1745, is still
sufficiently large, which indicates that th 'ir numbers are not
increasing.

Although they cam ' from Germany, they have lived in
Holland until they are thoroughly Dutch. Their houses and
grounds are very neat and clean. Th y have canals leading
from the main canal of the kingdom to all their business
houses. This is the case throughout Holland, canals answer-
ing the place of roads in other countries.

Brother Schettler's relatives and friends were ver}^ glad
to see him, and treated him with marked kindness and
respect ; seemed glad that I accompanied him. One of his
uncles and one cousin spoke a little English, which was very
gratifying to them and esp'ciall}^ so to me. One of his aunts,
a very intelligent lady, who has six children and one grand-
child, seemed verj^ anxious to talk. She took her carriage
and carried us several miles to see the Cathedral at Utrecht.
Her husband showed me through his extensive establisliment
for manufacturing porcelain stoves, and ornaments of burnt
clay. I regarded ra}' going with Brother Schettler as a fortu-
nate circumstance, as it gave m > an opportunity' of becoming
acquainted with som .> of the people of Holland at their own
firesides. I was surprised at the nu:iiber of beautiful trees
which are growing in rows by the sides of the canals, and in
small groves. Most of them are very beautiful. I recog-
nized the bass wo jd and the beech, although the bark looks
greener than in the American woods.

Most all of the land app 'ars to be but a few inches above
the sea, and a good miuy thousand acres are lower than the
sea, and are only drained by pumps run by windmills,
which raise the water 'o higher levels, and run it off to the
sea, it is then kept out by immense embankments. This

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 53

would seem rather precarious— living lower tlian the Go iman
Ocean— when we consider that only a few hundred years ago
half a million people were drowned by the ovei-flow. Much
of the country then overflowed has not yet been reclaimed.
On the 4th inst. we visited the Hague, the rnpital of Hol-
land, examined its museum, and enjoyed a drive to the
Queen's Palace, known as the " House in the Wood." We
then drove to the sea i^hore, and on our return shopped at the
Bazar. In the evening all called on the American Minister,
Honorable Charles T. Gorham, who invited us to spend the
evening and take tea. We accepted the invitation, and were
introduced to Mrs. Gorham, a very pleasant and agreeable
lady. We next went to the Cathedral at Haarlem, an im-
mense pile. By paying thirteen florins we were privileged
to hear the mammoth organ for an hour. It is truly a won-
derful instrument, containing 5,000 metal pipes, and it is said
2,000 more of wood. We saw, embedded in the wall, a cannon
shot fired by the Spaniards in 1572. It is lodged near the
pulpit, and was intended to kill the minister. We passed
through Ley den. rendered famous in history by the vigorous
siege by the Spaniards, during the revolutionary war of
1673-4, a contest between Catholicism and Protestantism,
as well as between Dutch independence and Spanish tyranny.
At Amsterdam we stopped at the Bible Hotel, and we visited
a mu-eum famous for its old paintings. We also visited the
King's Palace, and spent about two hours in the navy yard,
examinnig the immense machine shops and <.)ther places in
which the building of iron vessels of war is carried on. We
saw one new monitor afloat, so arranged that they conld sink
the upper deck two feet under water, all but the turret. We
also saw slabs of iron plating eight inches through, one of
which had several holes shot through, the ball first pene-
trating twelve inches of hard wood, showing that they cannot
make plates that cannon balls cannot penetrate. Went
through the marine arsenal, which contains a great variety of

64 C O E R E S P O N 1) ]^: N C E OF

arms of various periods, many of wliicli are now used in the
Dutnli navy. We drove to the cemetery. The monuments
are stone slabs, polished until they are as smooth as glass ;
they are laid flat on the ground.

Elder Van Dyke, of Ogden city, called to see us, and
Elders Little, Dunford, Schettler and myself went with him
to the home of Brother De Groot, and met with a branch of
the church, all of us speaking to them in turn, Brother Schett-
ler interprethig. Brother Van Dyke has baptized twenty-
seven since lie came to Holland. He accompanied us to Rot-
terdam and stayed with us over night. We regard him as a
faithful missionary laboring under difficulties.

To-day we left the dominions of his DutoU Majesty, Wil-
tiam II, and entered those of Leopold II, King of the Bel-
gians. We had to stop and have our trunks and satchels ex-
amined, to see if we had anything on which we should pay
duty, but on the whole we regarded th > oficers of our new
king as rather courteous than otherwise, in the discliarge of a
Rot very pleasant duty. We are now at the Hotel de I'Eu-
rope. We have visited the great Cathedral of Antwerp, re-
markable for containing several original paintings by the im-
mortal artist Rubens. We saw a man hy the name of Van
den Wildenberch, who has spent thirty-eight years of his
life in making copies of Rumens' two master-pieces, one of
the crucifixion of the Saviour, the other, taking liim from the
eross. Van den Wildenb'^rch sells these at 300f. a piece.
Rubens is almost the idol of Antwerp. His statues and pic-
tures are everywhere to be seen. We went to the Chuivh of
St. Jacqu':'S,- where we saw his magnificent tomb, above which
hangs ou'^ of Ids own paintings — a portrait of himself, his two
wives, one daughter, one son, and other members of his family.

Our onl}^ anno3'ance in regard to health is colds. The
climate is damp naturally and the whole country is but a few
inches out of water.

GEORGE A. SMITH.

I'ALESTINE TOURISTS. 56

LETTER XX.

At Haarlem— Its Former Struggle with Spain— Two thousand People Exe-
cuted—Church of St. BaYon and its Wonderful Organ— A Dutch Wedding
—The Inventor of the Art of Printing— Amsterdam— A City on Piles
Built on a Saltmarsh— Amsterdam Sapped and Mined by a Formidable
Army of Worms— Canals— A City Containing One Hundred Islands and
Two Hundred and Eighty Bridges— The Museum— A Palace on Piles—
The Covmcil Chamber — Clipping Iron Plates — Diamond Cutting— Charit-
able Institutions.

Antweep, Belgium, December 7tli, 1872.
Editor Deseket News:

We arrived at Haarlem en route to Amsterdam, on
Wednesday tlie 4tli of December. It is a town of considera-
ble importance, containing thirty thousand inhabitants — in
former periods the residence of the Counts of Holland. In
the latter part of the sixteenth century, during the Spanish
war, the citizens of Haarlem, after suffering seven months'
siege, in which thej^ endured the severest hardships, were
forced to capitulate. Ten thousand people on that occasion
perished by famine or lost their lives in the terrible encoun-
ters of those blood}^ struggles. The commandant and the
Protestant clergy, together with two thousand townspeople,
were barbarously executed after having surrendered. Fred-
erick of Toledo, son of the Duke of Alva, commanded the
besiegers, and had given solemn assurances of life and hon-
orable treatment. We saw traces of a striking character, still
remaining as sad mementoes of the atrocious deeds.

St. Bavon, erected about three hundred and seventy

56 CORRESPOXDEXCE OF

years ago, is the principal church in Haarlem. This is a
magnificent strncturp, fonr l/undred and twenty -five feet in
length ; its nave is supported by twenty-eight massive col-
umns, eighteen feet in circninferonce. This church is re-
nowned for its famous organ, which, for a long time, has
been considered the largest and most powerful in the world.
It has four key boards, sixtj^-four stops, five thousand metal
and two thousand wooden pipes; the la-gest of these pipes is
thirty-two feet long, and fifteen inches in diameter. It is very
beautiful — adorned with marble statuary, life size, and. in
attractive attitudes, representing personages playing on instru-
ments of various descriptions. We employed, the organist
and three or four blowers to exhibit its merits. Imitations
of different tones of the piano-forte, the trumpet, whistle,
battle call, sacred music, closing with a tremendous thunder
storm — all were executed with admirable accuracy, fully
satisfying us as to its wonderful capabilities.

We saw a cannon ball which was nearly buried in the
wall, having be^n thrown through an opposite window from
a Spanish gun during the siege above mentioned.

While exploring this church for objects of curiosity, we
were Interrupted by the approach of a wedding party, which
afforded some diversion, especially to our* young t- urists,
who had never witnes-ed a Dutch wedding. The bride and
groom were accompanied by a grave clerical gentleman, to
whom we bowed with becoming reverence, and with smiles
of our heartj" approval to the happy groom and blushing
bride. As we discovered nothing in the ceremonies surpris-
ingly characteristic, I omit description.

In front of this church is a bronze statue of Coster, form-
erly a citizen of Haarlem, representing him as the inventor of
the art of printing.

Having spent two hours in that intorestin-r town, w^e took
cars for Amsterdam, where we arrived about half past 3 p.
m. Amsterdam is the great commercial city of Holland,

PALESTINE TOURISTS

nnmbering 275,000 inliabitants, of wliom 57,000 are Roman
Catholics, and 28,000 Jews. It is built over a e^alt marsh,
npon piles driven from forty to lift}' feet into the ground.
We were informed that one liouse only, in this city, s-tands
on any other foundation. These people apparently feel as
secure upon these wooden posts as if founded on solid ground,
although at one period this faith in their safety was fearfully
shaken. While busied in making canals and windmills —
smoking their pipes, unsuspicious of danger, the enemy in
vast numbers had succeeded in securing a lodgment beneath
the city and commenced mining and sapping the entire sub-
structure—penetrating and cutting into the very heart of
these underpinnings. These fearful invaders were wood
worms/ They were honey -combing the wooden piles with
alarming rapidity, threatening to tumble all Amsterdam into
the great salt marsh. The whole city was in consternation !
Every Dutchman's ingenuity and military tactics were called
into requisition to devise measures to rout the enemy. Some
of the crusaders were captured while working the trenches,
and submitted to the inspection of zoologists, in hopes of
discovering some vulnerable point, susceptible of attack, but
all to no purpose — still they were mining and sapping, bor-
ing and eating, and, by millions, doubling and quadrupling.
At last, however, these belligerents ended their hostilities
after the same fashion as Bonaparte's army in Russia— the
Holland winter finished them. It appears that these insects
had been imported by some vessel from a waiTQ climate— the
colder regions of the north compelling them to succumb and
leave the honest Dutchman to smoke his meerscl aum in
peace and security. Living specimens of these insects are
preserved in the Cabinet of Zoologists in Amsterdam, where
they may be seen by the tourist.

The expense of these foundations for building frequently
exceeds tliat of their superstructures. The neglect of proper
attention to this matter is liable to result in disaster. An < x-

58 COREESPONDENCE OF

tensive warehouse, containing 3,500 tons of grain, was pre-
cipitated into the marsli in consequence of the inefficiency of
the foundation.

The city is about nine miles in circumference — intersected
by numerous canals, dividing it into nearly one hundred
islands, which circumstance, in connexion with other re-
semblances has given it the title of the " Venice of the North."
Many of these canals are very broad— flanked with avenues
of tall elms, presenting a handsome and picturesque appear-
ance, comj)aring favorably witli the finest streets in any city
we have visited. Two hundred and eighty bridges form the
crossings of these canals. A reservoir about thirteen miles
distant ^supplies^the^inhabitants with drinking-water, which
is conveyed in pipes.

We visited the Museum, which contains many valuable
paintings, chiefly the works of the old Dutch school. The
finest edifice in Amsterdam is the " King's Palace," which
rests on a foundation of thirteen thousand six hundred and
fifty-nine piles; its length is two hundred and eighty-two
feet— two hundred and thirty-five in width, and one hundred
and sixteen feet high. Its tower is sixty-six feet high, con-
taining a splendid set of cliimes. The interior of the palace
is' grand and beautiful— its principal apartments, through
which we passed, are constructed of white marble, and many
sumptuously decorated. The "Council Chamber" is one
hundred and twenty feet long by sixty broad over the en-
trance, and opposite to it we noticed flags and trophies wrest-
ed from the Spaniards and other enemies. We also visited
the Navy Yard, and were conducted through the different
departments of ship-building. Steamers, monitors and iron-
clads were in course of erection. We were amused in view-
ing the operation of their ponderous and complicated
machinery. By a downward stroke chunks over three inches
in diameter were punched out of cold iron plate above an
inch in thickness. Ponderous iron pillars were pared, pol-

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 59

ished and grooved, blocks of iron eiglit inclies thick were
turned and twisted into every desirable shape. It seemed
impossible that any projectile could be forced through an
eisht-inch block of iron : we were, however, shown one of
this description which had been perforated bj' a cannon ball
after having passed through a covering of oak at least one
foot in thickness.

The most remarkable trade in this city is that of diamond
cutting, which is done almost exclusively^ by Jews, The
stones are cut or sawed through by means of wires covered
with diamond dust and polished by being pressed by the
workmen against a rapidly revolving iron disk, moistened
with a mixture of oil and diamond dust. This last material
has proved to be indispensable in this work, as no otlier sub-
stance will make impressions on the diamond.

Amsterdam is celebrated for its numerous charitable in-
stitutions. It has upwards of forty designed for the benefit
of the sick, aged and indigent, lunatics, foundlings and
widows, all being supported by voluntarj' contributions. Up-
wards of twenty thousand poor are sustained at the expense
of private individuals. We saw a number of establish-
ments for the poor, which appeared more like palaces for the
ricli than dwellings for the destitute. This cit}^ as well as
many others in Holland, is famous in its liberal arrangements
for educating the poorer classes. The " Society for Public
Welfare," founded in 1784, by a Baptist minister, is an ad-
mirable institution, having for its object the education and
moral culture of th? lower classes, and extending its opera-
tions throughout the kingdom of Holland. It comprises
14,000 members who subscribe two dollars annually. It
educates teachers, publishes schoolbooks, establishes Sunday
schools, reading-rooms, and libraries, publishes works of
literature, bestows rewards, and confers public distinctions
on persons who have made themselves conspicuous b}^ their
generosity and philanthro2jic conduct.

60 CORRESPONDENCE OF

We left Amsterdam, Thursday the 6th, at 2 p. m., re-
turned to Rotterdam, whifh we left on the following morn-
ing, and at 1 p. m. arriv(^d at this place.

LORENZO SNOW.

LETTER XXI

Journey to Xew York— Crossing the Atlantic— London— The Gorman Ocean
—Rotterdam— Hovise and Statue of Erasmus— Queen's Palace— The Old
Bible Hotel— Shipbuilding—A Dutch Burial Ground— Antwerp— The Ca-
thedral—Cliurch of St. Jacques— Tomb of Rubens— Field of Waterloo.

Beussels, Belgium, December 9tli, 1872,
Miss Mary E. Cook:

Dear Lady -.—Six weeks and two days have elapsed since I
left the ' • City of the Saints." In that time I have jonrneyed to
New York— crossed he Atlantic— spent two days in Liverpool
—thence to London— stopp >d nine days in that mammoth city
of world-wide interest, and withal, so unsystematically plan-
ned, that when asked how I liked London, I invariably re-
plied, that, were I to shape it to my liking, I should, in the
first place, take it to pieces and straighten out its streets. It
is impossible to describe tb^n— in curves, semicircles, diago-
nals and a few in straight lines, but most of these are so
abruptly intersected, that when you turn your eyes to look,
in the distance, the focus of si^ht is brought to a sr.dden
standstill. But with all these discrepancies— its fogs and
darkness, London is a grand metropolis, where, after you
have seen very much, you realize that, comparatively, you
have seen but little. So I felt when, leaving on the evening

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 61

of November 30th, we — President Smith and party — took
cabs atour hotel, ''Cook's Boarding Hou'se," opposite the
British Museum — then the raih-oad train to Harwich, where
we took steamer and crossed the German Ocean — arrived in
Rotterdam in the afternoon of December 1st— after dining on
board and having our effects very politely examined by the
custom house officer in the service of King William, while
anchored in the Maas.

Rotterdam is a beautiful city — one of many and large
industries. It is alive with business— full of canals, the
smaller ones used for individual purposes, instead of teams
and wagons, the larger ones for expensive commerce. In
every part of the city, ships are either anchored or afloat, giv-
ing the whole town the appearance of a navy j^ard. I was
very much intire^ted liere by the way of " sight seeing" —
was shown the house once the dwelling of the celebrated
Erasmus, also a bronze statue of him, in standing position,
on an elevated pedestal, in a mucli frequented portion of the
city.

On the evening of the 3rd we went to the Hague — visited
the Qaajn's Palace, entitled th- "House of the Woode,"
situated one and a half miles from the town, in a beautiful
park — the drive to it is through ranges of stately forest trees.
We were shown through the lovely dwellings, and invited to
inscribe our names in the Queen's register. Much to our re-
gret her Majesty happened to be in town at the time. From
the Hague we went to Amsterdam, stopping by the way
at Haarlem — saw and heard the world-renowned organ in
the "Old Church of Bavon." I much admired its tones,
especially when it most magnificently imitated a thunder-
storm. In its tower I obtained a fine view of the town and
its surroundings. In Amsterdam we quartered at the *' Old
Bible Hot'^1," where a large Bible is stationed in an open
position directly above the public entrance. This city, though
much larger, exhibits in some respects the same chiiracteris-

62 CORllESrONJDENCE OF

tics as those of Rotterdam and the Hague, only more so, that
is, so far as shipping is concerned. Ships are made here. In
company with President George A. Smitli and party I went all
through a monstrously hirge establishment of this kind in
the " Dutch Marine " or Navy Yard of Amsterdam, where a
new iron monitor was just launched, and where we saw the
ponderous machinery at work with which the manufacture
is accomplished. It was surprising to see sheets of solid
iron, several inches in thickness, cut like cheese. We visit-
ed the King's Palace, which has a ball-room said to be the
best in Europe — it is one] hundred feet high, one hundred
and twenty long and sixty in breadth. The cemetery is very
neat — instead of raised or erect stones, the graves are cover-
ed with beautifully polished granite slabs laid prostrate —
some of them very expensively and elaborately ornamented.
From Amsterdam we went to Antwerp, where we sub-
mitted our trunks and valises to the respectful examina-
tion of King Leopold's officers of customs ; visited the great
Cathedral of Antwerp — examined some of Rubens' celebrat-
ed paintings— one in particular, which is considered his
master-piece, entitled "The Descent from the Cross." We
also visited the " Church of St. Jacques," which contains the
tomb of Rubens, over which is a painting, by himself, into
which he has introduced a representation of himself, his two
wives, his father and his son. From Antwerp we came to
Brussels, where we arrived on the 7th. To-morrow we
anticipate an omnibus ride to the field of the "Battle of
Waterloo," and the next day we go to Paris.

With the exception of a little sea- sickness, and a cold
taken on emerging from my steam-boat recess across the
ocean, my health has been excellent, and, thus far, I have
enjoyed the tour much beyond my expectations. What-
ever I enjoy as a tourist, and whatever good I may ac-
complish, is attributable to the financiering and philanthropy
of my beloved sisters, the noble ladies of Utah. This,

PALESTINE T O L" R I S T S . 63

wherever lain, is present with me. I wish to be remembered
to them all in love, with a double portion to those dear
young ladies who are honoring that most important position,
the " Young Ladies' Retrenchment Organization." They are
often in ray thoughts, with my heart's earnest response — God
bless them! Clara S. Little is a good, companionable girl,
and I am very much at home with our party.

ELIZA Pt. SNOW.

LETTER XXII.

In Brussels— A Tour in Holland — Its Geographical Divisions — Xaval and
Mercantile Marine — Colonies — The Executive— The Legislature— Modes
of Travel — Brick Roads — Canals — Annual Expense of Dykes — Lofty
Buildings — Cleanliness — Mirrors in the Streets — Church Chimes — A
Singular Custom — Births and Marriages — Dutch Country Houses — Gigan-
tic Windmills — "Polders," how Produced — Public Schools.

Brussels, Belgium, December 9th, 1872.
Editor Ogden Junction:

I am now in Belgium, after having made a brief and
interesting tour tlirough the principal cities of the kingdom
of Holland. Some observations upon the general features
of that remarkable country and its inhabitants, which I ex-
tract from my journal, I trust will not be uninteresting.

The kingdom of Holland is divided into nine provinces,
embracing a population of three millions and a half, one
third Roman Catholics and one hundred thousand Jews. On
an average, each square mile is occupied by two hundred and
seventy-seven inhabitants. The total area of their possessions

64 CORKESPONDENCE OF

in thj East and West Indies amounts ta six hundred and
sixty thousand square miles, with a popjlat'on of ei<,dit3en
millions. The merchant licet of Holland numbers above
seven thousand vessels ; two thousand hve hundred of these
carry on a traffic with distant parts of the world. Its army
consists of sixty-one thousand men, besides thirty thousand
which are distributed throughout the colonies. The Royal
Navy consists of one hundred and ninety-two vessels of war
of diHerent descriptions.

Tlie executive power consists of a State Council of
twenty mjmbers, twelve of whom ard nominated by the
Kin^. The legislative power comprises two chambers : the
first consists of thirty-nine members elected by the provinces
for a term of nine years, the second, of seventy-four members
elected by the ele3tori of the districts.

Their modes of travel by steamboats, railways and dili-
gences, with respect to celerity, price and comfort, compare
favorably with those of othjr countries. The roads in Hol-
land are worthy of commendation. As stone does not abound
in the country, small, well hardened bricks, one and a fourth
inch thick, are employed as a substitute, forming an extremely
hird surface, which is supposed to equal, if not to ex^el in
l)oint of excellence, that of our best macadamized. The first
cost of thj construction of these Dutch roads is estimated at
about two thousand five hundred dollars per mile. They are
])nt little travelled however, except by light vehicles, the
main trafiic being done upon their num-rous canals, which
intersect the country in every direction, enlivened with mul-
titudes of barges, oftim drawn by small screw steamers.

The roads or streets flanking the canals are planted with
trees, relieving in part the monotonous characteristic flatness
of the country, and imparting to the landscape a beautiful
and picturesque appearance. These canals serve, not only
as means of communication between their towns and cities,
but also to carry off from their arable lands, surplus water,

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 65

and likewise answer in the place of hedges and walls, to
enclose fields and gardens. The large canals, which are
immsdiately connected with the sea, are closed at the point
where they emp'y by massive floodgates, to prevent the
encroachment of the sea when its level is lower than the
water in the canals. The principal canals are sixty feet in
width and sixty feet in depth. The great Northern Canal,
connecting Amsterdam with the North Sea, is the broadest
and deepest in Europe. This, however, will be surpassed by
the one now in course of construction, connecting these
two points by a shorter route, seventeen miles in length, and
one hundred and ninety to three hundred and twenty feet
in breadth, and twenty-three feet in depth.

I presume that Holland is the lowest country in the
world, at least, the lowest of any in which T have travelled
the greater portion lying several feet below the sea level ;
much, therefore, of the security of the country depends upon
dykes, or embankments. These dykes are not only required
to prevent incursions of the sea, but rivers likewise, in con-
sequence of the gradual and constant raising of their beds by
alluvial deposits. Hence, one can scarcely imagine the
enormous expense connected with these undertakings. The
first principle to be observed in constructing a dyke is to
make a massive and permanent foundation — it must be
stamped and compressed to give it the necessary solidity ; as
much of this banking material is of such a soft, soapy, oozy
nature, it requires immense patience and labor to consolidate
it sufficiently.

A vast embankment was thrown up from the slimy beds
in the vicinity of Amsterdam, which required forty years to
settle it to a state of firm solidity. In the construction of
these dykes, twigs of willows are used, interlaced one with
another with elaborate skill, the interstices being filled with
clay, in order to bind the whole in one solid mass. These
are renewed, -usually, every three years, being cultivated very

66 CORKESPONDENCE OF

extensively in all parts of tlie country for this purpose. The
estimated annual expense of keeping these dykes in repair
throughout Holland, is about two and a half millions of
dollars.

Much difficulty is often experienced in forming perma-
nent foundations for buildings. I noticed in the cities many
structures of massive proportions, beautiful and magnificent,
but sadly out of perpendicular, owing to imperfections of
their substructures. The houses generally are lofty— built of
small, red brick, the windows of imposing dimensions, and
kept scrupulously clean, cleanliness being an admirable
Dutch characteristic. Looking glasses are so arranged upon
the outside of the windows that one can sit upon his or her
cushioned chair, inside, and observe whatever is passing in
the street without being seen. Some might object to this
Dutch invention as a little too much one-sided amuse-
ment.

The chimes in the towers of the churches and other
public buildings indicate the quarters of the hour by playing
bars of some popular or operatic air, which highly amused
us until its frequent repetition moderated the pleasure.

In some of the Dutch cities a singular custom prevails,
viz. — fixing bulletins on tlieir door-knockers where persons are
sick, apprising their friends of their health, thus saving the
trouble of knocking or ringing. The birth of a child is
announced by a placard adorned with red silk and lace. The
friends of the family on these interesting occasions are
treated to wine and cinnamon cakes. Betrothals are cele-
brated by an immense consumption of " bridal sngar," or
sweet cakes aud spiced wine, called "bridal tears," very
appropriate and amusing terms.

In passing through Holland, we frequently noticed beau-
tiful villas and romantic country seats in the midst of parks
and pleasure grounds occupied by Dutch gentry and mer-
chants. Many of their dwellings bear inscriptions indicating

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 67

the sentiments of the occupant, such as Wei Tevrede7i (Well
Content) ; 3Iy7i Ge7icegen, (My Satisfaction) ; Vriends chap
en Oezellscliap, (Frienship and Sociability) ; Buiten Zorg^
(Without care). Many have much more lengthy titles.

Holland is full of windmills, some of which are of
gigantic size, their sails often spreading one hundred feet in
length. They are used for grinding corn, cutting tobacco,
sawing timber, manufacturing paper and in transferring sur-
plus water from low grounds into canals running upon higher
elevations, which discharge it into the sea.

A great portion of the country has been reclaimed from
rivers,morasses, lakes and seas ; these '* polders," or reclaimed
lands are remarkably fertile, owing to varipus causes. In
many instances during the winter season they are covered
with water, thereby receiving additional vitality ; the surplus
water can be removed on the shortest notice. They afford an
admirable and efficient system of irrigation. There are some
remarkable features in the manner in which they produce
these '' polders." The first step in the process consists in
surrounding the morass, or portion of the lake to be drained,
with a dyke sufficient to prevent the admission of water from
without. Then the water is removed by means of water
wheels, constructed for the purpose, driven by windmills or
steam engines. In some instances these lakes or morasses,
to be reclaimed, are too low or deep to admit the water being
at once transferred to the main canals, and conveyed off*. In
such cases a system of dykes, or embankments, one within
another, each provided with a canal on its exterior, constitu-
ting an ascending series of levels, from the lower of which
water is transferred to the higher, and finally into the main
channel, whence it is carried into the ocean.

Holland is celebrated for its numerous private and public
schools, and excellent arrangements for the general diffusion
of knowledge among the lower classes.

We saw some of their schools, but our time was too

68 CORRESPONDENCE OF

limited to investigate their educational system as would have
been desirable.

Holland is also proverbial for her numerous charitable
institutions.

LORENZO SNOW,

LETTER XXIII

Brussels— Hard-worked Women— Feeding Horses with Coarse Bread— Field
of Waterloo— Monument to the Prince of Orange— A Saying of Joseph
Smith— A Genuine Relic of Waterloo.

Brussels, Belgium, December 10th, 1872.
My Dear Daughter:

We started this morning from our hotel, eight of us, in
an omnibus, and drove through a considerable portion of the
beautiful city of Brussels and its environs. We entered
what is here termed a wood. About one half of the coun-
try is under cultivation, the remainder is covered with trees,
much resembling the tall forest trees in the northern part of
the State of Ohio. The open ground, except some newly
plowed fields, was all green— thousands of acres covered
with turnips, cabbage, kale and other vegetables. We saw
women carrying large bundles of wood on their heads and
one drawing a huge load of brush on a cart. Several others
were guiding dogs that were attached to and drawing loaded
carts. Our coachman called at an inn by the way, saying he
wanted to feed his horses and give them some water. The
food was slices of brown, coarse bread, which we tasted and
pronounced tolerably good.

PALESTINE TOUKISTS. 69

Soon after 12 o'clock we arrived at the battle field of
Waterloo, where was fought, on the 18th of June, 1816, one
of the most sanguinary battles recorded in history. About
one hundred and fifty thousand men were engaged for about
ten hours in destroying each other. They covered the coun-
try for miles with their dead, dying and wounded— both men
and horses. It is said that more than thirty-five thousand
men died on the field, and many died afterwards of their
wounds. All of the privates who were killed in battle were
buried where they fell— friends and foes, French, English,
Dutch and Germans, who had slain each other, were mixed
indiscriminately ; and the fields where they lay are now cul-
tivated, and we walked over them. On the spot where the
Prince of Orange was wounded, in fair view of a large por-
tion of the battle field, the Dutch government has erected a
mound of earth, two hundred and forty feet high, on the top
of which is a lion made of cast iron, cast in six parts, and
weighing forty-eight thousand pounds. This lion is placed
in a position which represents it looking towards France,
which gives offence to many of the French people.

The view, from this height, of the battle field and its
surroundings, is truly grand and beautiful; we enjoyed it
much, although while there we were exposed to a pelting
rain. While contemplating this scene, and the melancholy
circumstances connected with it, my thoughts reverted to a
saying of President Joseph Smith, while on an ancient La-
manite battle field, in Clark Co., Ohio, in 1834. '' When a
man of God is in a place where much blood has been shed,
he will feel lonesome and depressed in spirits. This spot
has been an ancient battle field, I know by my feelings." In
a few moments we came to an immense mound of earth,
sixty feet high, covering an acre of ground. This mound
contained many human bones, and was, doubtless, like the
Dutch monument of Waterloo, erected to perpetuate the
memory and also to bury the dead of a great battle.

70 CORRESPONDENCE OF

Our party consists of myself, Lorenzo Snow, Eliza R.
Snow, Feramorz Little, Clara S. Little, Paul A. Schettler,
George Dunford and Thomas Jennings.

I should have said that while we were walking over the
ground on whicli the battle of Waterloo was fought, Thomas
Jennings picked up a bullet which was lying on newly
ploughed land, Avhich is a genuine relic of the battle.

Your loving father,

GEORGE A. SMITH.

LETTER XXIV

Antwerp, Its Maritime Trade— Cathedral of Notre Dame, Its Wonderful
Chimes — The Museum — A Masterpiece of Rubens — The Royal Palace
— Brussels, Paris in Miniature — Cathedral of St. Nicholas— Selling Wax
Candles — A Catholic Devotee— A Singular Marriage Ceremony — Royal
Operatic Theatre — National Palace — Hotel de Ville — Monument to Counts
Egmont and Horn,

Paris, France, December 12th, 1872.

Editor Deseret News:

We arrived in the city of Antwerp, Belgium, Ttli of De-
cember. It is one of th3 finest cities in the kingdom, embra-
cing a population of 133,000. It is the principal seaport of
the country, cariying on an extensive traffic with Great
Britain and Germanj^ Among other objects of interest, we
examined the celebrated cathedral, Notre Dame, 390 feet in
length and 216 feet in width, the most magnificent gothic
structure in Belgium. It was commenced in the middle of
the thirteenth century, and completed one hundred years

PALESTINE TOUKISTS. 71

after. It is the only churcli in Europe that has six aisles.
Its skilfully executed and elaborate carvings, numerous
paintings by celebrated artists, Mosaic work of the finest
description, marble statues of exquisite workmanship, gor-
geous gildings, and decorations of the most costly character,
altogether form a scene of great beauty and magnificence.
The tower is 402 feet in height and is ascended by 622 steps.
It affords a splendid view of the city and surrounding coun-
try. Its chimes are among the most complete in Belgium,
consisting of 99 bells, the smallest of which is but fifteen
inches in diameter, the largest weighs eight tons.

We also visited the Museum, containing a collection of 560
pictures, possessing great merit, the productions of celebrated
masters. One of these by Rubens, which I consider the
most perfect, particularly attracted my attention. It repre-
sents Christ crucified between two thieves ; Longinus, the
Roman officer, mounted on a grey horse, is piercing the Sa-
viour's side with a lance ; the penitent thief, a grey -haired
man, is invoking the Saviour for the last time. In the fore-
ground stands the Virgin mother, whom Mary, the wife of
Cleophas, in vain ende'avors to console. Farther back, St.
John leans against the cross of the impenitent thief, weeping ;
Mary Magdalene on her knees, at the foot of the cross, im-
plores Longinus to spare the sacred body of her master.

The whole is drawn with almost startling accuracy, in-
deed, I never saw a life scene on canvas so strikingly illus-
trated. The writhing agony of the impenitent malefactor,
whose legs have just been broken by a Roman soldier, while
on the contrary, the composed expression of the other, though
worn by suffering — all depicted with such marvellous exact-
ness impressed me for the moment with a feeling that I was
witnessing the reality of this shocking scene.

Antwerp justly boasts of many public edifices of great
beauty and magnificence. The royal palace, erected over 100
years ago in fantastic pompadour style, drew our attention.

72 CORRESPONDENCE OP

though perliaps failed to excite our admiration. This city-
has a splendid theatre, its interior handsomely decorated with
paintings, and busts in marble and bronze of eminent com-
posers and dramatists, among whom are Shakespeare, Moliere,
Euripides, and Mozart. The Zoological Garden contains a
fine collection of animals, which, with its garden and beauti-
ful park, is considered one of the best in Europe.

We left Antwerp the following afternoon and arrived at
Brussels in the evening.

Brussels is the capital of Belgium, the residence of the
royal family, and contains a pojDulation of 170,000, only
6,000 of whom are Protestants. This city has many points of
resemblance to Paris, the capital of France, so much so that
it frequently is called '' Paris in miniature." The majority of
the citizens speak the French language; the Flemish is
chiefly spoken by the lower classes.

As usual on entering Catholic cities, we paid our respects
to its celebrated cathedrals, of which St. Nicholas is the most
prominent. It is of Gothic structure, and presents an im-
posing appearance. Its interior embraces characteristics
similar to other Catholic churches — images, elaborate carvings,
fine marble statuary, sumptuous gildings, magnificent decora-
tions, together with paintings in almost endless variety. Some
have rather singular representations, such, for instance, as
the "Expulsion from Paradise," done in carved wood, with
great skill and at vast labor and expense. Among the beau-
tiful foliage are seen all kinds of animals— a bear, dog, cat,
eagle, vulture, peacock, owl, dove, squirrel, and lastly an
ape eating an apple. These are surmounted by the Virgin
with the Child, who crushes the head of the serpent with the
cross.

In one of these churches, an old lady was holding a
stock of wax candles, some of which ghe insisted on our
purchasing, that we might burn them for the benefit of our
dead friends. In another we saw a gentleman of respectable

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 73

appearance doing penance in a prostrate position upon the
floor of the church, before the cross and image of the Sa-
viour, kissing the stone pavement with great fervor, and wet-
ting it with tears. I imagined he might have committed in
secret some great crime ; I may have failed to do him justice.

In one of these cathedrals we witnessed a Catholic wed-
ding which was quite amusing — the bride and groom were
kneeling before the altar, a priest with sacerdotal robes, with
open Bible, wax tapers, and three silver goblets of wine, was
performing the marriage ceremony, reading a sentence or
two, repeatedly kissing the cross and quaffing the wine, wav-
ing his hands and pronouncing Latin, while in the back-
ground a little boy in a white gown, walking to and fro,
swinging slowly, then rapidly, a small censer with smoking
incense, accompanied with an occasional jingle of a bell. In
the evening we attended the Koyal Operatic Theatre, the
most noted in Brussels, and the finest and most richly fin-
ished and artistically decorated I ever visited. The par-
quette was furnished with cushioned chairs, elegantly made
and sufficient room to pass without annoyance. Its six-tiered
gallery, with elaborate carvings and splendid gildings, pre-
sented a grand appearance. I think the performances could
not be surpassed.

We visited the National Palace, where the sessions of
the Senate and Representatives are held, and were conducted
through the various apartments. The Senate Hall is embel-
lished with fifteen portraits of celebrated Belgians. These
two halls had the appearance of comfort and convenience,
rather than disj^lay.

The Hotel de Ville, the City Hall , the most remarkable
edifice in Brussels, has a graceful tower of 386 feet in height ;
on the summit of its spire is a figure in bronze of Michael,
the Archangel, eighteen feet high. A portion of this hall is
occupied by the City Council of Brussels, comprising thirty-
one members. We noticed some magnificent tapestry 400

74 COREESPONDENCE OF

years old, and ii basin with the keys of the city made of
beaten gold and silver 200 years ago. In front of this hall
stands a magnificent monument of Counts Egmont and Horn,
who were unjustly executed by the notorious Duke of Alva,
June 5th, 1568. A portion of this colossal structure contains
figures in bronze representing the two Counts on their way to
execution. In the Hotel de Ville, we ascended by a winding
staircase to thj summit of its lofty tower, where we enjoyed
a magiiiticent view of Brussels and its environs— a fatigaing
luxury. Also from this lofty height may be seen in the dis-
tance the " Lion Monument," a vast mound upon the battle
field of Waterloo, erected in commemoration of the great
victory won by the allied powers under the Duke of Wel-
lington.

We visited that memorable locality about ten miles dis-
tant from Brussels, spending several hours walking over the
fields, still bearing traces of those bloody struggles, examin-
ing many points and localities of intense interest ; but I will
defer this subject for the present.

We left Brussels, Wednesday, December 11, and arrived
in Paris the same evening.

LOKENZO SNOW.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 75

LETTER XXy

Paris— Visit to Versailles— Bois de Boulogne— St. Cloud— Attend the National
Assembly— French Glory, Bruises and Scars— Interview with the Presi-
dent of the French Republic.

Paris, France, December 18tli, 1872.
Editor Deseret News:

We are pleasantly situated at the "Hotel de Peters-
bourg," in tlie beautiful city of Paris, the capital of lovely,
sunny France. Too much cannot be said of the beauty and
magnificence of this wonderful city. I will not attempt, at
present, to describe all that we have seeai of its beauty and
grandeur. I have just returned from promenading some of
its principal streets, viewing it in its evening splendor, lit up
with thirty-two thousand gas burners.

Yesterday we visited Versailles, some twelve miles from
Paris. We passed through the forest of Boulogne, admiring
the delightful picturesque scenery bordering on the river
Seine, passing through a variegated country until we reached
St. Cloud, where we alighted from our carriages and walked
over the ground where the Prussians planted their artillery
to bombard th(3 city of Paris, and where many thousands
were slain during the late bloody contest. Every building,
except the Cathedral, had been demolished ; this was pre-
served by a body of Prussians, who had been stationed there
through the reverential feeling, perhaps, of the Prussian
Emperor.

At Versailles we enjoyed magnificent views, comprising

76 CORRESPONDENCE OF

objects of almost infinite variety. To me, however, our visit
to the National Assembly, then in session, was the most
interesting, with the exception of our interview with Monsieur
Thiers^ the President of the French Republic, which I will
describe presently. The National Assembly comprises 758
deputies, elected by their respective districts in 1871, consti-
tuting only a provisional government. How long they may
feel disposed to hold office, or the vaccilating minds of the
people to sustain them, the future will reveal. The political
prospects of France are shrouded in fearful mystery — at any
moment the most terrible scenes may burst upon the country !
The National Assembly convenes in that portion of the pal-
ace formerly occupied as a theatre, when Versailles was
revelling in regal pride and splendor. We owed the priv-
ilege of admission to the President of the Assembly, through
the request of Monsieur Bartholemy St. Hilaire, private sec-
retary to M. Thiers, to whom we had been introduced by
Major Lorin. We were accorded seats appropriated to for-
eign diplomats and embassadors, an honor we appreciated and
duly acknowledged. The grave, sedate, dignified, bald-headed
appearance of this great body of French deputies was rather
prepossessing. We spent about an hour in listening to their
eloquent and animated speeches. I have alluded to Major
Lorin — this gentleman distinguished himself as a French
officer in the battles fought against Austria and Italy, also in
many bloody conflicts between the French and Prussians.
In the late war ho commanded about three thousand men.
On the establishment of peace only forty-seven remained ; the
others were either killed or disabled. The Major was covered
with French glory — scars and bruises. We had formed an
acquaintance with this gentleman, and while visiting Ver-
sailles he proposed to present our cards to President Thiers
and procure us an audience. We accepted the proposition
and drove up to the palace of M. Thiers. In a few minutes
the Major returned, accompanied by the President's private

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 77

secretary, wlio politely stated that M. Thiers would be happy
to receive President Smith and party at half past nine, p. m.

We repaired to the palace at the hour designated. M.
Bartholemy St. Hilaire conducted us to the reception hall and
introduced us to President Thiers. He was attended by a
number of distinguished French gentlemen, principally his
cabinet ministers, anxious and curious to witness the inter-
view between the President of the French Republic and the
delegation from the Latter-day Saints in Utah, en route to
Palestine. Mr. Thiers' personal appearance impressed us
favorably — his dignified bearing, plain and unassuming man-
ners, . with a countenance glowing with benevolence and
patriotism. He possesses the reputation of being a good
English scholar, but I presume the vast crowd of business of
late years has allowed liim no time to practise the English lan-
guage, therefore the conversation was carried on in French,
Major Lorin acting as interpreter.

After the introduction. President Smith acknowledged
our appreciation of the honor accorded to himself and party,
in granting this interview — that we were from Utah, en route
to Palestine to study the Bible in the land where its recorded
events had chiefly transpired — that we sympathized with the
President of the French Republic in the great cause he is
laboring to establish — a Republic in France, and had sought
this occasion of expressing our sentiments personally.

Upon this being interpreted. President Thiers replied
that he was gratified with such assurances from Americans,
and pleased to meet this delegation from Utah, and that he
was familiar with the history of our people. President Smith
remarked that we had been twenty-five years laboring under
every possible disadvantage to colonize that portion of our
American desert, in order to make a destitute people great
and prosperous ; that in connection with other objects relating
to our tour, we wished to gather information and statistics of
the progress of older nations, that through their experience

78 CORKESPONDENCE OF

we might more successfully benefit and improve the people
we represented.

President Thiers replied that, while we remained in
France, he should take pleasure in rendering any assistance
we might require in the promotion of tliis object.

We acknowledged our appreciation of this courtesy.
President Smith thanked him for favors extended to Ameri-
can citizens since the establishment of the French Republic.

President Thiers replied that he hoped the peaceful rela-
tions now existing between the two governments would never
be interrupted.

The interview closed in the following words by President
Smith — " President Thiers, God bless you."

These words inspired M. Thiers with renewed interest — he
requested the Major to give a literal translation of that ex-
pression. The honesty, simplicity and earnestness in which
this sentiment was delivered by President Smith, not only
excited pleasurable emotion in M. Thiers, but also were visi-
ble in the features of his ministers who were now crowding
around.

President Thiers cordially shook hands with President
Smith and each one of our party. We then retired, repaired
to our carriages and returned to Paris the same evening.

Shortly after this interview, the circumstance of our
reception was published in several of the French papers.

Please accept my regards for yourself and family.

LORENZO SNOW.

PALESTIXE TOURISTS. 79

LETTER XXYI.

Paris — Destruction of tlie Commune — Palace of tlie Louvre— Relics of Na-
poleon First — Napoleonic Rule in France— French Aristocracy — Magnifi-
cent Improvements — Champs Elysees— Garden of the Tuileries — Grarden
of the Luxembourg — The Palace of Versailles — The Finest Hall in the
World — Memories of Louis XVI— Le Grand Monarque — An Aristocratic
Gambling Saloon— Bed-chamber of Three Queens— Fifty Miles of Parks
and Gardens— Extract from the Paris " American Register "—Poetry —
" Farewell to Paris."

Paris, France, December 19tli, 1872.
Editor Deseret News:

We arrived in Paris llth December. This city contains
a population of about two millions. It is situated upon a
plain on both sides of the Seine. The surrounding country
presents but little diversity in its physical appearance, being
generally level except upon the north and northeast, \^here
it rises into low hills. Many portions of Paris still bear
traces of the vandalism and terrible destruction by the Com-
munists in their attempt to overthrow the National Govern-
ment, and several places which we visited bear witness of
cruel and bloody deeds. The Palace of the Tuileries, once
so famous for its beauty and magnificence, now lies in a mass
of ruins, and must long remain a silent witness of the horrors
of those fearful times.

The Palace Royal, Palace of the Legion of Honor, Hotel
de Ville, Library of the Louvre, besides numerous other
public buildings, together with many private edifices were
totally destroyed. The celebrated Column Vendome, once a

80 CORRESPONDENCE OF

boasted specimen of monumental beauty, lias nothing left
but its foundation.

We visited the Palaoe of the Louvre, famous for its im-
mense collection of paintings, sculptures, and Egyptian and
Roman antiquities. This pile of buildings embraces several
miles of galleries, forming fifteen distinct museums, the most
extensive in the world. The galleries of paintings contain
nearly one thousand eight hundred and fifty pictures, many
of them by the most celebrated artists, costing immense sums
of money. One of these called the '* Conception," the pro-
duction of Murillo, is said to have cost over one hundred
thousand dollars. In the Salle de I'Empereur, we were
shown some of the relics of Napoleon First — the clothes he
wore on ceremonial occasions, the hat worn in the campaign
of 1814, also the hat worn at St. Helena, and the handker-
chief which he used on his death bed. These mementoes
occasioned curious reflections. Our guide, who spoke Eng-
lish fluently, took this opportunity to enlighten us respect-
ing his own opinions of the merits of the Bonapart dynasty.
He said that Napoleon First accomplished much for the honor
and glory of France in military achievements, but that Napo-
leon Third had greatly excelled him by making vast improve-
ments of a national character — expending immense sums for
this purpose — exhausting his own as well as the public trea-
sury in furnishing the laboring classes employment. That
under his reign the interests of working people had always
been studied, that peace and plenty, like streams of water,
had flowed in every direction. On the contrary, since the
establishment of the Republic, things had taken a wrong
direction — general improvement had stopped, leaving the
laboring classes without employment and the means of sub-
sistence; therefore, to the majority of the people, especially
to the working classes, the restoration of the Bonapart
dynasty would not be unwelcome.

The aristocracy of the French are highly educated,

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 81

whereas the lower orders scarcely possess a knowledge of the
ordinary branches taught in the common schools in America,
being verj^ ignorant, and yet ambitious to acquire wealth.
They are unwilling to employ time in searching into the real
causes of political evils and disabilities, but in proportion as
i\\&jfeel the blessings of political prosperity or the misery of
adversity they pronounce judgment upon the merits or de-
merits of government, or the ruling powers.

We observed many magnificent improvements made by
the direction of the late Emj)eror. Palaces had been recon-
structed and enlarged in behalf of the national interests,
ornamental monuments and triumphal arches, illustrative of
the achievements of the French nation. Streets had been
widened and beautified, and spacious thoroughfares formed
through old and crowded localities. We were told that one
thousand buildings, at vast labor and expense, were removed
for this purpose.

Paris abounds in spacious grounds for promenades,
public gardens, and extensive parks. The Bois de Boulogne,
a fashionable promenade of the Parisians, embraces an area
of about two thousand, one hundred and fifty acres. We
passed through a part of this on our way to Versailles. The
Champs Ely sees contain many delightful parterres with
choice shrubs, flowers, and fountains throwing up sparkling,
silvery sprays. The Garden of the Tuileries is exceedingly-
attractive. It has many beautiful fountains with jets and
orange trees, and fine statuary. The Garden of the Luxem-
bourg has a large octagonal basin surrounded by flower beds
and grass plats, flanked by terraces, and adorned with
numerous statuary. We noticed another fountain in this
garden, in the form of an oblong basin, surrounded by rows
of plane trees. It has three niches separated by Doric col-
umns. The central niche contains a group of marble figures
representing Polyphemus, with one knee on a rock, in the
attitude of slaying Acis and Galatea. The summer season

82 CORRESPONDENCE OF

would have afforded a better opportunity for enjoying these
delightful scenes, but a Parisian climate, even in winter, in
"sunny France," is frequently favorable for these enjoy-
ments.

In my last I mentioned our visit to Versailles, the Na-
tional Assembly, and our interview with President Thiers,
but do not feel fully satisfied without some further reference
to its objects of interest and curiosity.

Eleven years were occupied in building the Palace of
Versailles, for which an army of workmen were employed
and immense sums of money expended in overcoming the
obstacles of nature, in erecting its massive buildings, and
constructing and ornamenting the gardens and pleasure
grounds.

Louis XIV held his court in this palace with such bril-
liancy that it became the general rendezvous of the French
aristocracy. It was finally converted, after many years, into
a great National gallery for works of art, illustrative of the
military glory of France. One of the numerous halls is
called " Galerie des Glaces, " the finest in the world — two
hundred and thirty-nine feet long and thirty-five feet in width.
In this hall, during the siege of Paris, the King of Prussia,
surrounded by the representatives of ail the Gferman sover-
eigns, and the chief officers of his government and of the
army, formally assumed the title of German Emperor.

The " Salle du Conseil" is entered from this hall, where
Monsieur de Breze came to announce to Louis XVI the refusal
of the deputies to disperse, and the memorable words of
Mirabeau — " We are here by the will of the people, and we
will only disperse at the point of the bayonet. " From this
hall we passed into the apartment where "Le Grand Mon-
arque" died. It is lavishly decorated, and the furniture
remains in the same condition as at the King's death. The
bed is that on which he died.

We passed into the " Salon de Paix," the card-room

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 83

in which Madame de Montespan is said to have lost, in one
night, over one million, six hnndred thousand dollars.
From this room a door leads to the bed chamber which
was occupied by the three Queens, Marie Theresa, Marie Lec-
zinska, and Marie Antoinette. At six o'clock on the morn-
ing of the 6th of October, 1789, the Queen, asleep in this
chamber, was aroused by the cries of the guard that her
life was in danger. Escaping from this room she hastened to
join the King, whom she found in the "Salle du Conseil."
They at once appeared, with their children, on the balcony of
the King's bed chamber, from which he addressed the in-
censed and furious mob which had crowded into the court
below.

The paintings and sculpture consist of representations of
the most remarkable events in the history of France, especi-
ally the victories won by military valor, including those gained
by Napoleon Third. The j)ortraits are those of the admirals,
constables, marshals and many other distinguished officers of
different periods, who have contributed to the glory of the
nation. Many of these paintings are of immense value.

The park, including the gardens, is nearly fifty miles in
circumference, adorned with marble statuary of exquisite
workmanship, ornamental trees, beautiful parterres and mag-
nificent fountains.

The original cost of this royal palace, with its splendid
surroundings, is reported to have been about two hundred
millions of dollars. With these observations, I close the
subject.

LOEENZO SNOW.

84 C 0 E II E S P O X D E N C E OF

FROM THE TARIS ''AMERICAN REGISTER.

On Tuesday last the Mormon party, now passing through
Europe on their way to Palestine, visited Versailles and were
received in the evening by M. Thiers. The Hon. George A.
Smith, leader of the party, gave the President a curious and
interesting account of Mormonism in the United States, and
stated that the sect which he represents is already composed
of about 120,000 members. Mr. Smith and his party started
for Lyons on Thursday, and leave that city to-day for Mar-
seilles, where, after remaining a couple of days, they will pro-
ceed to Nice.

Although the Mormon party at present in France disclaim
uny other motive than that of pleasure and instruction for
their proposed visit to Palestine, it is asserted by some who
profess to be well informed, that they are going there to ex-
plore the ground for the foundation of a new Jerusalem. We
see nothing improbable in this assumption. The people who
created a paradise in Salt Lake may well aim at founding an
Eden in the land of prophets.

The long interview which the Mormon elders had with
the French President, the other day, has, we are informed,
seriously disquieted Madame Thiers. Surely at the Presi-
dent's advanced time of life there is no fear of his conversion
to Mormon doctrines. As Thiers was born April 10, 1797,
sind, consequently, will be 76 years of age in April next, we
sincerely sympathize with Madame in her alarm.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 85

FAREWELL TO PAllIS

Farewell great Paris, soon I go

Upon the morning train ;
I go where softer breezes blow

On land and wat'ry main.

I'm going now, and as I leave

I take a parting view.
And see the web of distance Aveave

That separates from you.

Your spires that glitter in the sun
Above "The Arch of Time,"

Are disappearing one by one :
I hear no church bell chime.

Gay Paris, beautiful e' en now

Bereft of much you boast ;
Tho' Prussia aim'd your pride to bow

'Twas Paris hurt you most.

War demons 'roused in foreign lands
Can never wield the power

As when, by suicidal hands,
Commissioned to devour.

Of all the ills of human life
That mighty nations cursed,

The warfare of internal strife
And carnage is the worst.

Yovir ruined palaces and halls,

Scathed by fraternal hate,
Are sad mementos— each recalls

Your folly and your fate.

M. Thiers, with wise sagacity,

The dire result foresaw
If France, with blind temerity,

The battle-axe should draw.

86 CORRESPONDENCE OF

He now presides. Will Franco sustain

His policy of peace,
Or in a vortex plunge again

Where waste and crime increase?

Fair, lovely Paris ! What shall be

Your future, who can toll ?
Your lofty spires no more I see —
Again I say, farewell !

ELIZA R. SNOW.

LETTER XXYII

Brussels— Theatre Royal— Church of St. Michael and Gudule— Visit to a
Lace Factory— Houses of Parliament— Hotel de Ville— Waterloo and the
Farm of Hougomont— Arrival at Paris— Call upon the American Minis-
ter—Yisit to Palaces— Notre Dame— Opinion of Utah Silk— Yisit the Com-
mon Schools— Go to Yersailles— Bois de Boulogne— Yisit the President of
the French Republic- Arrival at Lyons— Silk Factories and Cocooneries.

Hotel de L'Eukope, Lyons, France,

December 20, 1872.
Editors Salt Lake Herald:

My last letter to you was dated Brussels, December Sth.
On the evening of that day we visited the finest theatre in
Brussels, called '* Theatre Royal de la Monnaie," and witr
ne^ssed the performance of the beautiful opera "L'Afri-
caine." Next morning we went to the largest church in
Brussels, St. Michael and Gudule, containing some of Rubens'
best paintings. Thence to a lace factory which employs
about 3,000 women, most of whom, however, work at home
and earn from one to two and a half francs per day for twelve
hours work, which is very hard on the eyes. After that we

PALESTINE TOUKISTS. 87

went through the Houses of Parliament, which are very ele-
gantly furnished, contain some most excellent paintings of
this century, and are quite extensive, considering the size of
the kingdom of Belgium. There are seats for 124 representa-
tives and 62 senators. After lunch we went to the old Town
Hall, commenced in 1402, and ascended the tower, which is
404 feet high, and from which very fine views over the city
and its environs can be obtained, even to the battle-field of
Waterloo ; but it rained pretty hard when we arrived at the
top of the tower, and consequently we saw but little .

Tuesday, the 10th, we spent in a visit to Waterloo, leav-
ing our hotel at 9.45 a. m., and arriving there at noon. We
procured a guide, who talked English with a pretty strong
French accent, but who was well posted in the history of the
l^attle, and gave us a great deal of interesting information.
We visited the celebrated farm of Hougomont, where the first
shot was fired at 11.30 a. m., the Lion Monument, etc., and
returned to Brussels in a heavy rain shower.

December Tlth we took train for Paris at 9 a. m., arrived
in the capital of " la belle France" at 5.30 p. m. We put up
at the Hotel St. Petersbourg, 25 Eue Caumartin, and received
a number of letters from our friends at home, dated up to
November 23rd, and four numbers of your semi-weekly to
the same date, which President Albert Carrington had for-
warded according to arrangements made with him. We all
felt glad to hear from " home, sweet home," as the news was
generally of a very satisfactory nature. Our first visit next
morning was to call upon our Minister, Mr. Washburne. He
being still absent, his son, who is secretary of legation,
received us kindly, and furnished a passport to Mr. George
Dunford, who was not provided with one. After returning to
the hotel we took a walk with our ladies to the beautiful
*' Place de la Concorde," thence through the Garden of the
Tuileries to the Palace of the Tuileries and to the Louvre.
A great portion of the Tuileries, which were plundered and

88 C O R K E S P O N D E N C E OF

burned by the Commune, is still in ruins and presents a
rather melancholy appearance. The collection of paintings,
statuary and other works of art in the Louvre is very large,
and it would take weeks to go through the galleries, and
study everything tliat is exhibited. Friday the 18th, we
called at the banking house of Messrs. Marcuard, Andre &
Co., to whom President George A. Smith had a letter of intro-
duction from Mr. Ralston, cashier of the Bank of California.
Mr. Andre gave to President Smith a letter of introduction to
Mr. Husson, General Director of the Educational Department
of the District of the Seine, who also received us with mucli
courtesy, and instructed the Superintendent of the Paris
schools to show us around in all the schools of the city that
we desired to visit. In the afternoon we drove to the Palace
of the Luxembourg, where the legislative assembly met
for about a hundred years back, but since the late war that
body occupies a former theatre at Versailles. Saturday wo
spent a part of the day at the Church of Notre Dame, where
we were shown through the treasury chamber of the churchy
which contains several dozen of the most magnilicent gold
embroidered robes, to be used by the priests of the church on
certain occasions, also the bloody garments of several of the
bishops of Paris, who had been shot by the Commune-
On the 15th I visited several parties who were interested
in sericulture, in compan}^ of Mr. George Dunford, to whom
I had letters of introduction from Mr. L. A. Bertrand, and
they pronounced the samples of cocoons which I had brought
along from home of very excellent quality, and expressed
the opinion that this branch of industry would prove to our
people an almost inexhaustible gold mine. In the afternoon
some of our party visited the botanical and zoological gar-
dens.

Monday, the 16th, the principal clerk of the Educational
Department, Mr. Chasteauneuf, who speaks English pretty
well, called at our hotel to take us to some of the primary

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 89

schools of the city. At the first one we visited, we met
the Inspector of the Paris schools, who together with Mr.
Chasteauneuf exerted himself to give us all the information
we desired, and accompanied ns to all the places which we
visited during the day. The principal of the first school, Mr.
Charles Barbier, had 350 scholars under his charge, from six
to about fourteen year 5 old, and had adopted a new system,
originated in his own brain, to teach history and geography,
by making his scholars draw the maps of France during the
different periods of history, on the walls, which they now
permanently adorn, and keep that history before the eyes of
his pupils. On our entrance to each different class, the
scholars arose and saluted us in military manner. They
receive lessons in gymnastics and military drilling twice a
week, in order to prepare all the male population of France for
another attack of a neighboring enemy. Their lunch time
having arrived, they all repaired to a large room on the first
floor, where their lunch baskets, all named and numbered,
were waiting, under each boy's seat, for an attack on the half
bottle of wine and bread and butter which they generally
contained. Everything was clean and tid}^, no scribbling, no
whittling, because, as the teacher remarked, they did not
allow anything of the kind. The other schools which we
visited were all conducted on similar iirinciples, one of them,
conducted by a Mrs. Lecroix, having 120 little girls and boys,
from two to six years of age, under her charge, who treated
us to a couple of nice songs ; and another school conducted
by friars. Tuesday, 17th, drove to Versailles, taking a
couple of English speaking guides. We passed through the
Bois de Boulogne, or Woods of Boulogne, and stopped a
short time at St. Cloud, to walk through a few streets and see
the terrible destruction which the Prussians had made on
their retreat from Paris. Our guide, having learned who we
were, proposed to get us an interview with President Thiers.
We rather liked the suggestion, though we were not prepared

90 CORRESPONDENCE OF

to appear in full dress, and accordingly drove up in front of
the government department. Our guide went inside to make
inquiries if we could be admitted, but President Thiers was
engaged in a council, and sent his x)rivate secretary, Mr. I
Bartliolemy St. Ililaire, member of the House of Representa-
tives, to our carriage, to tell us that he was sorry that he
could not receive iis now, as he was engaged, but he would
be pleased to see us at 9.30 p. m. We left our cards and
visited the palace, to which we were admitted through a card
of Mr. I. B. St. Hilaire, on which he wrote in pencil, to facil-
itate our seeing the palace, the gardens, and the hall of
Assembly. When this card was presented to Mr. Jule Grevy,
President of the Assembly, he gave orders to seat us in the
gallery of the Diplomatic Corps, facing the President and the
Speaker. In'the evening we called at President Thiers', and
were admitted at 10.15 p. m. He was surrounded by his
cabinet and members of the Assembly. President Thiers felt
sorry that he could not converse in English, and our guide
had to do the interpreting between liim and President Smith.
When we left he shook hands with all of us, and wished us
a pleasant journey. President Smith wished him a hearty
" God bless you."

Thursday, the 19th, at 11 a. m., we left Paris per express
train for Lyons, .319 miles distance, and reached here at 10.15
p.m. , stopping at the Hotel de I'Europe. To-da}^ I called with
a letter from my friend L. A. Bertrand on Mr. Jacquemet Bon-
nefont, dealer in seeds, who has large mulberry plantations
and cocooneries in Annonay. His agent took great pleasure
in taking our party to several silk establishments, where we
saw the manufacture of all kinds of silk and velvet ; also
the weaving of portraits. We bought a few of President
Thiers, General Washington and Mr. Jacquard, the inventor
of that machine. I showed him a photograph I had with me
of President B. Young, and he said he would have it set up,
and weave it, to be ready in about three or four months. He

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 91

sells these portraits, which are 5 1-2 by 7 1-2 inches, at ten
francs, or about two dollars apiece. To-morrow I intend go-
ing to Annonay, to visit the cocooneries and mulberry plan-
tations of Messrs. Jacquemet Bonnefont & Sons, while the
rest of our party will continue sight-seeing here in Lyons.

We are all in the enjoyment of good health, and nothing
has occurred to mar our peace.

Yours as ever,

PAUL A. SCHETTLER.

LETTER XXYIII

The Religions of France — Marriage a Civil Conti-act — Tlie Concordat — Con-
vents in Paris — The Educational System — Xumber of Births in Paris —
Illegitimacy — Working Classes — Paupers — Prisons — The Supreme Power,
Where Vested — The Standing Army.

Lyons, France, December 20th, 1872.
Editor Deseret News:

We left Paris yesterday morning and arrived in this city
the following evening. Before I close my observations upon
our visit to Paris, allow me to extract a few more items from
my journal.

The religion of France is principally Roman Catholic.
The Reformed Oalvinistic, the Lutheran, and Jewish churches,
are recognized and sustained by the State. The masses of
the people, however, profess the Catholic religion, which is
eminently the acknowledged religion of the Government.
The principal festivals of the Catholics are observed as public
holidays, when public prayers are ordered ; the authorities

92 CORRESPONDENCE OF

are supposed to bo Catholics, and are expected to attend
these ceremonies, yet no processions are allowed outside the
walls of a Catholic church in towns where there are churches
of a different order of worship.

Marriage is made a civil contract, and no religious cele-
bration of marriage is allowed until the civil contract has
been entered into before the Mayor Tlie registers of bap-
tisms, marriages and burials, kept by the church, are not re-
ceived as evidence in lieu of the like registers, kept by the
Mayor.

The Concordat, which was arranged with the Pope,
by Napoleon Bonaparte on the restoration of the Christian
worship, still regulates the government of the church. Its
main object is to place the church entirely under the control
of the state. The government nominates the archbishops
and bishops, the Pope then confers the canonical honors.
The bishops appoint the priests, subject to the approval of
the government. No communication from the papal court,
no doctrinal decision or formula can be published or taught,
no council held, no change in the discipline introduced, un-
less sanctioned by the government. The Lutheran, like the
Catholic, churches, are under the control of the state. The
appointment and removal of pastors must be confirmed by
the government. The same also in respect to all protestant
churches in France — the state exercises more or less influence
and control.

In Paris there are over thirty convents, principally of
nuns, ostensibly engaged in the education of young ladies in
the relief of sick and indigent persons, besides other use-
ful employments. We saw them attending the sick in hos-
pitals, in private dwellings, and engaged in superintending
schools for the poor, which impressed us favorably in their
behalf.

The national schools are also under the control of the
government, and are divided into three classes or general de-

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 93

departments — " Instruction Superieure," " Instruction Secon-
daire," and " Instruction Primaire." Tliese departments are
governed by a Supreme Council of Public Instruction, com-
posed of five bishops or archbishops, three senators, three
councilors oi state, three members of the Court of Cassa-
tion, three ministers belonging to the Lutheran Reformed
and Jewish creeds, five members of the Institute, eight in-
spector generals and two heads of private establisliments of
instruction. All the members of this council are nominated
by the government for one year.

About seven thousand students are now attending in the
superior department. In the primary departm-^nt the total
number of pupils is nearly two hundred thousand. President
Smith obtained an introduction to the Prefecteur General of
the Department of the Seine, who courteously accorded us the
privilege of visiting and inspecting these national institutions.
We were conducted by the secretary and public inspector,
Mr. Charles Barbier, into several departments, and examined
minutely the course of studies and discipline, metliods of
teaching, arrangement of desks, seats, &c., and lastly their
gymnastic exercises. Every explanation and facility were af-
forded that we recjuired for obtaining statistics and the
information we sought. The government is very strict, ap-
proaching to that of military discipline. We admired the in-
dustry and general neatness conspicuous in every depart-
ment.

One of these primary schools consisted of four hundred
and fifty boys, from ten to fourteen years of age, divided in-
to branches, each numbering from seventy to one hundred,
occupying separate rooms in the same building. We noticed
that the seats and desks exhibited no signs of whittling pro-
pensities in the occupants. I remarked to the superintend-
ent that I supposed his young students wf^re prohibited pen-
knives, upon which he ordered the school to hold up their
knives, when, to our great amusement, two-thirds of the boys

94 CORKESrONDENCE OF

presented to view tUis article of pocket furniture ; this ex-
periment was repeated in two other departments with like re-
sults. These seats and desks had been occupied seven years
without mark or blemish, a high encomium on school dis-
cipline.

On intimating our wishes to witness their gymnastics, the
superintendent ordered his school of eighty boys to retire to a
capacious hall, where they ]3erformed in a masterly manner
several courses of exercise consisting of military evolutions.
A sentiment expressed on the occasion, by President Smith,
that these young gentlemen, at some future period, might
be able to " put the Prussians through," was highh^ relished
by the superintendent. In all the national schools, I think
these gymnastic exercises throughout are characteristically
military, giving tone to the martial spirit and military am-
bition of the French nation.

After spending several hours in these public schools, we
returned to our hotel fully satisfied with our visit.

A few items of social statisdcs might be interesting. In
1869, the last census returns show the number of births in the
capital to be some above 54,000 ; still-born children 4,500 ;
deaths 45,872 ; marriages 18,948. Of the children born 15,366
were illegitimate ; of these 3,059 were acknowledged by their
parents.

About one half of the population of Paris are working
people ; 15,000 are paupers; 21,000 patients are always in hos-
pitals, and four times as many pass through them in the
course of the year. The population of the prisons is about
5,000. It is a remarkable fact, that families constantly re-
siding in Paris, after a while become extinct.

The supreme power in France is vested in a National
Assembly elected in February, 1871, during the armistice
signed with Prussia for this object. M. Thiers was elected
President at the sitting of the Assembly by acclamation.
His powers of government depend on the will of the As-

PALESTIXE TOURISTS. 95

sembly. The country remains without a constitution. The
common routine of business is ordinarily transacted accord-
ing to former usages, though not expressly confined ta any
particular programme.

A few days since, a petition was circulating in the cafes
of Paris, requesting the members of the National Assembly
to resign. The police, however, soon suppressed these pro-
ceedings.

The standing army of France is about a half million—
in every part of the country we meet soldiers promenading
in military costume.

The laws, usages, all the internal operations, together
with the great mass- of officials, previously in existence under
the monarchy, still remain nearly the same, xlt present, the
French republic does not venture upon many material or
radical changes.

France receives her republic like an ancient aristocratic-
al household its new lord, looking for no changes of servants
nor lessening of fees or emoluments, neither alterations in its
anciently established usages and customs.

How long this ancient house and its new lord will con-
tinue to maintain amicable relations, we leave the future to
illustrate.

LORENZO SNOW.

96 CORRESPONDENCE OF

LETTER XXIX.

From Paris to Lyons — Burgundy and its Wines— Famous Towns— Fontaine-
bleau — Lyons and its Silk Industries — Tliirty-one Tliousand Silk Looms
— Weaving Portraits — Beautiful Marseilles — An Ami^hitheatre 1,800 Years
Old — Roman Relics — Olive Plantations and Vineyards — The Mediter-
ranean.

Marseilles, France, December 23, 1872.
Editor Deseret News:

Our routs from Paris to Lyons lies through a beautiful
and interesting country, abounding in orchards and vine-
yards, many of the latter being very extensive. The district
of Burgundy, so much celebrated for its excellent wines, em-
braces an area of 224,223 acres, all in vineyards. These vines
are trained upon stakes three feet high , being more thickly
set than is commonly practised elsewhere. Their yield differs
according to the soil and quality of the vine, some yielding
as high as one thousand gallons per acre. Immense quanti-
ties of these Burgundy wines are transported annually to
foreign countries. They are highly prized by amateur con-
sumers, being considered superior to most other wines in
point of flavor and delicious quality. The price of the
genuine Burgundy wines where they are manufactured will
average about one dollar per gallon.

The value of these products, in this district is, annually,
in the neighborhood of ten millions of dollars. We were
told that the longest duration of the finest wines capable of
preservation does not exceed twelve or fifteen years from the

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 97

season they are made ; after that time they decline instead of
improve. Some, however, may be kept twenty years, but
such wines are considered of an ordinary quality.

Wine in Fmnce is a common beverage, as much so as
cider in our Eastern States. It is always placed upon the
tables, and all are supposed to be judges of its merits, and to
require its enlivening influences.

We passed many towns famous in history for memorable
battles fought in their vicinity, or stirring events which have
occurred within their walls. Fontainebleau, about forty miles
from Paris, is remarkable for the great battle fought in Feb.
1814, in which the allies were signally beaten by the French
under Napoleon. We stopped but a short time at this
place.

We passed many elegant mansions, beautiful country
seats, chateaux and towns— some of the latter very antique,
embracing ancient castles^ and fortifications crumbling to
pieces, or lying in ruins. We also passed many lovely vales
encircled in the distance by low ranges of picturesque hills
covered with vineyards and olive orchards, the latter still
clothed in rich green foliage. Among these romantic hills,
here and there a beautiful villa appears, with its white chapel
surmounted by a modest, graceful tower.

We reached Lyons on the evening of the 19th, distant
from Paris about 300 miles.

Lyons is the second city of France, with a population, of
about three hundred and twenty-five thousand. It is cele-
brated for its silk manufactures ; in quality and variety they
are considered superior to any others in the world. In the
city and vicinity there are over 31,000 silk looms. Immense
numbers of laborers are employed in the business. We vis-
ited some of these establishments and were amused and
interested in witnessing the skill and ingenuity manifested.
Portraits, groups of people and also landscapes were woven
in silk with as much accuracy in delineation of face and

98 COKRESPONDENCE OF

figure as when done by the most skilful artist with paint and
brush. We purchased a few specimens of their weaving, in-
cluding exquisitely beautiful handkerchiefs, portraits of
eminent personages, George Washington, M. Thiers, and
other distinguished individuals. We showed the proprietor
of the establishment a photograph of President Brigham
Young, and on his proffering to weave the portrait, President
Smith made an arrangement to have a supply in readiness
on our return from Palestine.

We engaged carriages and drove through the principal
streets, park and suburbs of the city. We saw remains ol
walls, fortiii cations and buildings constructed in past ages by
the Eomans, together with other objects of curiosity and his-
toric interest. We had a splendid view of the hills of Savoy
and also of Mont Blanc, one hundred miles distant, clothed
in perpetual snows.

We left Lyons by train, on the 21st, en route for Mar-
seilles. We passed through many towns and cities of great
antiquity, celebrated for remains of architectural relics,
attesting their former greatness and splendor. In the town of
Arlis is a vast amphitheatre, supposed to have been built
1,800 years ago, now lying in magnificent ruins. It is 459 feet
long and 338 leet broad, it had 43 rows of seats and could
accommodate 25,000 people. The walls, to a considerable
extent, are broken down, together with some of its towers.
In former years, during the wars, it was occupied as a for-
tress.

In several parts of this ancient town the ground is strewed
with Koman relics, entablatures, broken down columns, &c.

We arrived in Marseilles, about 200 miles distant from
Lyons, in the evening, and stopped at the Hotel du Louvre et
de laPaix — a very fine establishment.

This city contains 300,000 inhabitants, and is considered
the finest seaport in France. Its harbor is formed by an in-
let of the sea, extending into the heart of the city, cover-

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 99

ing an extent of seventy acres, and will accommodate 1,200
vessels. We found numerous objects of interest and attrac-
tion. No finer streets can be found in any city of Europe —
they are broad and many of them bordered with ornamental
trees. The park is extensive and the public gardens and
promenades are romantic and enchanting to lovers of culti-
vated nature. To fully enjoy the smiling sun and balmy air
of beautiful Marseilles, and also to avail ourselves of an
opportunity for gratifying curiosity and gaining information,
we perambulated the city. The gardens and parks were orna-
mented with rich and costly shrubbery, grass plats tastefully
encircled with llowers, gravel walks with beautiful borders,
ornamental trees trimmed into varied forms, flowers exhaling
sweet fragrance around grottoes, fountains and cascades.

On one side, at a short distance from the city, lies a vast
landscape commencing with rising hills covered with terraces
of equal width, planted with olive trees and vineyards, rising
in regular gradation one above another, like rows of seats in
an amphitlieJttre, beautiful country seats here and there dot-
ting the summits of these hills, fronted with gardens and
groves of the orange and lemon tree loaded with golden fruit.
These ranges of hills, continuing one above another, roll
away in the distance into lofty mountains, and still onward
until their towering peaks are mantled in perpetual snow.
Before us stretching far off beneath the encircling horizon, in
calm and sweet repose, slumber the blue waters of the Med-
iterranean, whose broad bosom is whitened with sails from
every land and clime.

We shall long remember our stroll through the parks
and gardens of Marseilles, and along the sunny shore of the
beautiful Mediterranean.

LOEENZO SNOW.

100 COKEESPOXDENCE OF

LETTER XXX.

London Conference— Visiting the Poor— " Work Their Lives Out to Keep
Life In'"—Rotterdam— Dutch Cleanliness— Political Economy in Holland
— Brussels and its Carpets and Lace— Waterloo— Continvial Rain — Twenty
Miles of Tunnels — Alpine Railroads — European and American Railway's.

Genoa, Italy, December 29tli, 1872.
Editok Woman's Exponent:

I attended the London Conference of tlie Saints with
much satisfaction. In company with Mrs. Thompson, Miss
Clara S. Little and Elder Junins F. Wells, who kindly prof-
fered to escort ns, I spent one day in making calls among the
Saints. I told Brother Wells that I wished to see the poorest
Saints in London. He said he would take us to those in
lowest circumstances of any in the city, and then to those
who possessed the most of this world's goods; although, he
said, outside of the city are some much more destitute than
those within our reach.

All whom we visited seemed cheerful and happy. We
found one family in particular, destitute enough, in an upper
room, reached by a dark, narrow, winding stairway, who had
apparently to " work their lives out to keep life in. " In a
small room that I could nearly reach across, the mother and
two daughters were busy at their "annual" employment,
with scissors, paste, guilt trimmings, pasteboard, wire and
ribbons, making boxes of all fanciful forms and sizes for a
wealthy merchant who furnished the materials, and paid them
at a very low figure for their work. We spent the evening at

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 101

Brother Rowe's, where we were genteelly entertaifted and
had not only the pleasure of the society of our Palestine
tourists, but of a goodly number of Missionaries from Utah.

At Rotterdam we put up at the Bath Hotel, a commo-
dious building — everything in excellent order, and scrupu-
lously clean. Cleanliness seems to be a characteristic with
hotels in Holland ; and, admitting industry to be promotive
of neatness, it must also be a national characteristic. No
sensible, candid person can visit this country without accord-
ing to the people the credit of industry, and indomitable per-
severance. Most people think they do well to cultivate the
ground after it is made, but the Hollanders make much of
the ground they cultivate, and when made and cultivated,
it requires constant labor and expense to protect it from inun-
dation. They must, as a matter of course, be honest, they
have not time to be otherwise.

The wise policy of the Dutch brings wealth : they im-
port raw material of every kind — manufacture it, and export
it when manufactured. For instance , they purchase American
lard, and then, after multiplying its value in their factories,
sell it to Americans in the form of candles. I noticed women
wearing ornaments of gold on their heads, which were very
consp'cuous — some of the size of a silver dollar and some
much larger — and was informed that those ladies were wives
of wealthy farmers, and that thoy wore these ornaments to
represent their wealth.

I could not pass over this very interesting, small portion
of the world, in silence ; but in writing to the Deseret JN'ews
my brother has said so much about Holland, its inhabitants,
shipping, canals, etc., I shall not attempt description. Suf-
fice it to say, I enjoyed my visit in that kingdom, immensely.
Rotterdam, the Hague, Haarlem and Amsterdam, from
which we returned to Rotterdam en route to Antwerp in
Belgium, thence to Brussels, celebrated for its carpets and
lace, which we saw and admired, from which place we visited

102 COKEESPONDENCE OF

the battle-field of Waterloo, and the next day left Belgium
en route for Paris where, including one day's visit to Ver-
sailles, we spent five days very pleasantly.

Rain in unusual quantities has been the order of the day
overhead and underfoot from the time we landed in Liver-
pool until now, with few exceptions. Large tracts of culti-
vated land, with fencing nearly covered, and in many in-
stances, houses entirely surrounded with water, sometimes on
one side of the railroad, at other times on both, have pre-
sented ocean scenes rather than those of terra Jlrma. But
with all the rains and floods we have experienced but little
inconvenience, the most was in coming from Nice to this
place — overflow of water had made breaches in the track, and
instead of one day we were two days on the waj^, distance
one hundred and twenty-six miles. We have met with no
other detention. Some of our party estimated the length of
all the tunnels in the above distance to be, at least, twenty
miles. Whoever projected a railroad in this Alpine country
is worthy of a gold statue for his courage and intrepidity.
It is astonishing to think of the amount of labor and expense
requisite for the accomplishment of this Herculean project.
Most of these tunnels are cut through solid rock, and per-
manently arched, a protection against mountain torrents
flowing in to the Mediterranean, the shores of which the rail-
road follows from Marseilles to Genoa, except when tunneled
or cut through the many spurs of the Alps projecting into
the sea.

Compared with those of England, America may boast
the long stretch of her roads, but, so far as work and means
are concerned, Americans should doff" hats in presence of
this Herculean enterprise of southern France and northern
Italy.

To-morrow mornins; we leave for Turin.

ELIZA E. SNOW,

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 103

THE YEAR 1872

The year is stepping out regardless of
My long, long distance from nay Mountain Home.
It leaves me in Italia's "sunny clime,"
Where verdant foliage gentle breezes kiss,
And balmy zephyrs fan the evening tide.

The year now passing out has, in its course.
In lib'ral portions, meted out to me
The wide extremes of deep bereavement, and
Munificence in richly flowing streams.
Which I acknowledge freely ere we part.

All grateful reminiscences, the old,
Expiring Year inscribes indelibly
On mem'ry's sacred tablet, richly wreath'd
With choice mementos of the good produced,
Of vict'ries Truth and Justice have achieved.
Improvement's progress in the march of mind.
And every aid to poor humanity.
While its successor treads upon its heels. '

Good bye old Year ! We both are moving on :
You, to the cloister of the mighty past.
To join it to the future yet unborn ;
I, to the far-famed land of Palestine,
Which has a hist'ry of the past, that bears.
With a momentous and eternal weight
Of destiny to all of human kind,
Upon the future, which the passing years
With hurried tread ere long will introduce
With bold, magnificent developments.

I go to place my feet upon the land
Where once the Prince of Peace, the Son of God,
Was born — where once He lived and walked and preach' d
And prayed, admonished, taught, rebuked and blest ;
And then, to answer Justice' great demand
And seal his mission of Eternal Love,
Upon the cross poured out his precious blood,

104 COKRESPONDENCE OF

Arose to life triumphant o'er the tomb ;

And after being seen and heard and felt,

Ascended up to heaven ; and as He went,

Those who stood looking heard an angel say —

" Ye men of Galilee, why stand ye here

Gazing to heaven ? The self-same Jesus whom

Ye see ascending in like manner will again descend."

Each year that passes on
Clips from the thread of time a portion of
Its intervening length, and hurries up
The coming great and grand fulfilment of
That strange prediction, strange and strangely true.

That most momentous i^eriod, for the great
Event is fast approximating, and
The moving of the waters now, amidst
The nations of the earth, like deepest shades
Of pencil drawings, seems foreshadowing
The world's great crisis.

Human Policy
Grows tremulous, while human governments,
With tender care are fondly fostering
And feeding with their life s best nourishment,
The seeds of their own dissolution.

France
Is poising on a pivot, Eng'and rests
On her broad pedestal, but resting moves
With vacillating tendencies. The famed
Italia stands in leaning posture froni
The Papal Chair to King Emanuel ;
While Russia, beckoning to Austria,
To Germany, or whosoever will,
Solicits help to lift the balance
Of Power, now lying just beyond her reach.

The wires of destiny are working on

To consummate eternal purposes.

And bring results of change that must precede

" The Second coming of the Son of Man ; "

When, unto him, " whose right it is to reign,"

All human powers and governments will bow.

ELIZA R. SNOW.
Milan, Italy, December 31, 1872.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 105

LETTER XXXI.

Reflections — Members of the Party — Birthplace of Columbus — Religion on
Continental Europe — High Mass — The Cathedral at Genoa — Approaching
Marseilles— Orange and Lemon Groves — The Mediterranean — European
Apples.

Milan, Italy, January 1st, 1873.

Mrs. Jane S. Eichaeds:

Dear Sister : — How very changeful are the events of hu-
man life ! One year ago, the idea of addressing you from Italy
at the commencement of this year would have seemed almost
an hn possibility. But here I am, a long distance from what
to me is the dearest spot on earth — the home of the Saints of
the living God. The lapse of time, since parting with you and
the many dear ones associated with you in Ogden, has been a
constant routine of change combined with deep interest. Our
party consists of President George A. Smith, Elders Lorenzo
Snow, Paul A. Schettler, Feramorz Little, George Dunford,
Thomas Jennings, Miss Clara S. Little and your humble ser-
vant. So far as society is concerned, we are independent
wherever we are, and enjoy ourselves as well as possible for
people abroad, feeling assured of the faith and prayers of the
righteous ; a nd I assure you that I never forget a tribute of grati-
tude to those through whose love, kindness and generous
energies the privilege of this tour is extended to me. I have,
so far, enjoyed it far beyond my anticipations. Two months
and one week, and I am between seven and eight thousand
miles from home, having traveled through England, visited
the most prominent cities in Holland and Belgium, and in

106 COERESPONDENCE OF

France the cities of Paris, Versailles, Lyons, Marseilles and
Nice.. After leaving Nice we enter the dominions of Victor
Emanuel. Our first stopping place in Italy, according to our
programme, would be Genoa, but in consequence of heavy
rains having made a break in the railroad, we stopped one
night in St. Eeno, and went the next day to Genoa, the birth-
place of Christoi^her Columbus. From Genoa we went to
Turin and came thence to this place.

The national religion, we found since leaving England to
be Catholic. I had never witnessed the service until in Brus-
sels. This being New Year's Day, high mass was performed
in the grand Cathedral of Milan, which we attended. The
cathedral is a magnificent Gothic structure, containing four-
teen chapels ; it is, by many, considered the finest in the
world. We were informed that the service on the occasion
was of the highest order ; C3rtainly much of it was senseless
form and unmeaning, though dazzling, display. I enjoyed
the singing and the 'sweet music of the two organs, which
played alternately. The Archbishop, who represented the
Poj)e in all respects except that his hand, instead of his toe,
was kissed, was most gorgeously dressed, bearing, at times,
upon his head a superb mitre, and at other times, according
to the requirements of the service, it was taken off by an
officiate and held until again required, and then replaced.
The burning of incense was profuse. Great numbers, vari-
ously attired, officiated on the occasion, and the congregation
was immense. The services were performed in Latin and, it is
presumable, was as little comprehended by the majority of the
church members as by us. I readily understood'^that many
of the people present were, like ourselves, spectators. But
when I looked upon the congregation and saw some crossing
themselves, some reverently kneeling and others bowing,
first to a golden crucifix, then to the Archbishop, my heart
responded— How long, O Lord, shall these, thy children, be
bound in the dwarfing chains of traditional superstition and

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 107

ignorance 1 It is true the powers of earth are shaking, but at
present I can see no hope for millions of people under the
training of the '^Mother of Harlots," and the influence of
priestcraft, but through the ordinances for the dead. Such
were my reflections while 1 remained a spectator in the midst
of a great multitude in the stately and superb Cathedral of
Milan, which is described as being four hundred and eighty-
six feet in length, and its total breadth three hundred and
fifty feet.

As we apjjroached Marseilles, the face of the country,
which had been level, assumed a very uneven appearance,
hills approximating to the dimensions of mountains, and for
the first time on our route, we saw groves of olive trees, and
occasionally oranges, and when we reached the Mediterranean
they became very common, ornamenting the cities along the
coast — the orange and lemon trees being loaded with golden
fruit ; some of them, very large, must have been planted long
ago.

Our present location is inland from the sea, and the olive,
orange and lemon have all disappeared, save as the orange
is placed on our dinner table every evening for desert. On
this side the Atlantic I have not seen apples that would
compare with those of our mountain home — most of those we
have seen are very ordinary.

January 2nd.

Yesterday was rainy, to-day, being favorable, we ascended
five hundred and twelve marble steps, which brought us to
the platform of the great cupola of the cathedral above men-
tioned, w^here we had a most delightful view of the whole
city ; and but for a fog, which encircled the distant horizon,
we might have seen the surrounding chains of snow-capped
mountains in the distance.

To morrow morning we leave for Venice.

Yours with love,

ELIZA E. SNOW.

108 COERESPONDENCE OF

LETTER XXXII.

At Venice— Railroad Track on Artificial Ground— Gondolas— A City without
Horses — A Glass Factory — News from Home— Death — Consolation.

Venice, Italy, January 5th, 1873.
Beloved Sister Hokne:

We arrived h're on the 3rd, the same evening I received
a note with your signature attached. In acknowledging the
receipt I would give expression to my feelings were it in my
power to do so, but I leave you to imagine. * * * *
Venice is a very interesting city, both on account of its his-
tory and its singular location. Approaching it for a consid-
erable distance, the railroad track is laid on artificial ground,
with water on eac'li side. When we arrived at the commo-
dious depot, gondolas were waiting to take us to the Grand
Hotel Victoria; and with two gondolas for our persons —
four in each — and one for our baggage, we landed on the
threshold of our hotel.

This city is said to have been built on seventy-two is-
lands. Pedestrians can go into all parts of the city, but gon-
dolas instead of horses and carriages are used, the people
having no other means for riding. Yesterday afternoon our
whole party took a gondola ride and visited a factory for the
manufacture of glass, where they were making artificial eyes
for men and animals, together with every fancy ornamental
thing imaginable. The most beautiful looking-glass I ever
saw, with a white glass frame most delicately wrought, was

PALESTINE TOUEISTS. 109

prized at three thousand five hundred francs. We were told
that three of the kind were in America, purchased in Venice.
Our intelligence from Salt Lake has not been very pro-
fuse. The only paper received from there is th" Salt Lake
Herald, which comes occasionally and is a ricli treat to us
all. Arrangements are made with Brother Carrington to for-
ward all trans- Atlantic mail matter from Liverpool to differ-
ent points as President Smith designates to liim from time to
time. * * * By the Herald I learned the sad news of the
death of your lovely, precious daughter. I can think of no
one better prepared to go— although so young she was
ripened for a higher state of existence. For her, there is no
cause for mourning ; but when I think of her father and
mother, her young, bereaved husband, the loss to her bro-
thers and sisters, and the loss to the community where her
noble example has had a purifying influence, my heart over-
flows with sympathy and sorrow. How you will miss her !
But trained as you have been in the gospel of Jesus, you
know where to look for consolation. God alone can breathe
comfort to the deeply stricken heart. When I think of the
bereaved ones, I feel to mourn ; but when I think of ih.^ pure,
noble, lovely Julia, whose earthly mission is so soon accepted
—she spared a longer period of toil, struggle and suffering,
my feelings are buoyant and my imagination, if I may call It
so, follows her triumphant spirit to the happy abodes of pur-
ity and eternal peace. May the daughters oi Zion imitate
her worthy example ! God bless you my dear sister and fill
your heart with his comforting Spirit.

ELIZA E. SNOW.

110 CORKESPONDENCE OF

LETTER XXXIII.

Shores of the Mediterranean — At Venice — Genoa — Statue of Cohimbus — The
Cathedral St. Lorenzo— The Chain that Bovmd John the Baptist — Desecra-
tion of the Sabbath — Start for Turin — Milan— Tlie Ai-cade — Cathedral of
Our Blessed Lady, the Grandest Religious Edifice in the World — Mag-
nificent Marble Statuary — Statue of St. Bartholomew— Attend High Mass
— Arrival in Venice, the City of Waters.

Venice, Italy, January 4tli, 1873.
Editoe Deseeet News:

We left Marseilles by train, December 24tli. continuing
our route along the shores of the Mediterranean. Some por-
tion of the country is rougli and broken into hills and low
mountains, generally covered with vineyards and olive
orchards. The soil appears light, yet iDroductive. Much
labor has been required to bring this district to its present
flourishing condition. A plan was adopted widely differing
from that in Holland, which is a system of terracing, accom-
plished by removing the stones and rocks off ^the acclivities, and
building them up into walls from three to eight feet in height,
laterally, so as to form a level, varying in width from six feet
and upward, according to the steepness of the hill to be ter-
raced. Soil is gathered upon these levels, in which the vine,
the olive, lemon and orange are planted. Mountains from
base to summit adorned by these terraces, like rows of seats
rising in systematic order one above another, form a pleasant
picture, frequently lovely and fascinating.

We arrived at Nice in the evening. It is a beautiful

PALESTINE TOURISTS. Ill

city, romantically located among the hills bordering the sea.
It forms a fashionable resort for people of wealth in quest of
pleasure, and invalids in search of health. The environs
afford many attractions in promenades, extensive views, lux-
uriant vegetation, gardens and sloping hills covered with
vines, olives, aloes, cypress, palm, together with lemon and
orange trees loaded with golden fruit.

After spending two days pleasantly in Nice we left for
Genoa, Italy, where we arrived on Friday, the 27th of Decem-
ber. I was not forcibly impressed in favor of Genoa, its
streets narrow and crooked, some of them filthy. The dwell-
ings built in blocks flanking these narrow, devious paths,
in many instances nearly closed with each other at the top,
appearing to form an archway over the streets. We felt to
award a tribute of respect, however, to Genoa as the birth-
place of Christopher Columbus. One of its squares is orna-
mented with a fine monumental structure erected to his mem-
ory.

Sunday morning we attended Catholic service in the
Cathedral St. Lorenzo, the most celebrated church in the
city. During worship an ofiicer in uniform waited upon us
through the building, pointing out and explaining various
objects of interest. He conducted us to a small chapel en-
closed by an ornamental paling and showed us the ^' iden-
tical" chain with which John the Baptist was bound while in
prison previous to being beheaded, and also his ashes en-
closed in a silver urn. Any doubts we entertained of the
genuineness of these articles we refrained from expressing.
No woman is allowed to enter this chapel of St. John, except
one day in the year, because one of her sex instigated the
death of this saint. My sister, who happened to be the
only lady of the party present, bore this interdiction with her
characteristic grace and fortitude.

On leaving the cathedral, we noticed immediately in
front of it, a great variety of merchandise spread upon

112 COERESPONDENCE OF

stands, and a lively business going on in the way of buying
and selling. Shops and places of amusement are custom-
arily open on Sundays.

Monday, 3()th, we left for Turin. Some portions of this
route were very attractive, in fact, I do not recollect ever
having seen a landscape more lovely and enchanting. We
arrived in Turin in the afternoon, and left the following morn-
ing for Milan, which we reached in the evening of the 31st of
December.

Milan contains two hundred and seventy thousand inhab-
itants. It is situated on the river Alono, in the centre of the
great plain of Lombardy, and is one of the richest and most
beautiful cities of Italy ; the streets regular, broad and well
paved, the dwellings elegantly built, and commodious. The
city embraces capacious squares, promenades and gardens,
tastefully laid out and ornamented with fountains and stat-
uary. The Arcade is a splendid structure ; we visited it in
the evening when lit up with its immense number of gas
burners. An English company commenced this structure
with speculative views, but after having sunk (so we were
informed) nearly one million of dollars, relinquished the
project, after which it became government property.

Milan is celebrated for its cathedral, built in honor of
"Our Blessed Lady." Galeazo Visconti, Duke of Milan,
owing to some cause which we failed to ascertain, made a
solemn vow to build a rich and magnificent temple in honor
of the Virgin Mary, and was joined in this undertaking by
men of wealth and rank, with the intention of making it the
most costly and beautiful ecclesiastical edifice in the world.
For this purpose immense sums from time to time were con-
tributed by distinguished individuals — single donations fre-
quently reaching as high as from fifty to one hundred thou-
sand dollars. Kings, popes, emperors and empresses be-
stowed their princely gifts; one Italian gentleman con-
tributed thirty-five thousand gold ducats. The founder

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 113

donated, together with'other liberal gifts, marble at the quarry,
sufficient to build the entire edifice.

This temple has been nearly five hundred years in course
of construction, and will probably require another century
for its completion. In gazing with astonishment upon the
forest of pinnacles and thousands of marble statues, together
with millions of rich ornaments and endless works of carved
marble, and the great tower, with its lofty summit crowned
with a colossal statue, one would fail to notice any deficiency
or lack in its completion ; yet millions are still required to curry
out, in full, the magnificent design of the great artist who
planned this astonishing specimen of Gothic architecture.

Up to the present about one hundred and ten millions of
dollars have been expended, independent of the marble
donated at the quarry. The walls are eight feet in thickness,
built of fine white marble from Mount Gandoglia. The floors
are paved witli marble— the roof is formed with marble blocks
united by cement. The length of the cathedral is four hun-
dred and ninety feet, its breadtli two hundred and ninety-
eight, and its height to the summit of the tower is four hun-
dred feet. It is built in the form of a Latin cross, divided
into five naves, supported by fifty-two pillars, each about
seventy-two feet high, and twenty-four feet in circumference.
The interior of the building is decorated with fret-work,
carvings, statuary and numerous paintings, the productions
of the most skilful artists of Europe. The exterior is cov-
ered with marble statuar}^, representing some of the most
remarkable events in biblical history— Moses rescued from
the Nile by Pharaoh's daughter, Joseph's temptation in the
house of Potiphar, the angel driving out Adam and Eve from
Eden, Daniel in the den of lions, God appearing to Moses in
a burning bush, David holding the head of Goliath, Sampson
sufi'ocating the lion, and carrying on his shoulder the gates
of Gaza. Fifty-two representations of this character adorn
the front of this temple

114 CORRESPONDEXCE OF

Writers differ in their statements of the number of the
statues which ornament this building. In a work published
by a Mr. Prioli at Milan, the present number is estimated at
seven thousand, and additions are constantly being made.
The most celebrated artists in Europe have been employed,
and are still engaged in embellishing this edifice.

We ascended by a flight of five hundred and twelve steps
to the platform of the great cupola, where we enjoyed a mag-
nificent view of the city, and the immense plains of Lom-
bardy, chequered with towns and villages, stretching far
away till lost beneath the surrounding girdle of snow-caj^ped
mountains. From this lovely picture of nature, we turned to
gaze on the countless objects of beauty and splendor, the
productions of the highest efforts of human genius, which
constitute the exterior decorations of this extraordinary tem-
ple. Before us stood a forest of towers — one hundred and
thirty-six in number, each adorned with twenty-five marble
figures, life size, and thousands of ornamental objects in
white marble, imparting to the scene richness^ beauty and
grandeur. We descended to the interior of the building,
where, among the numerous objects which attracted our atten-
tion, was a marble statue, life size, representing St. Bartholomew
flayed alive and carrying his skin upon his shoulders. The
artist was eight years engaged in this work, which is much
admired as a specimen of the extraordinary skill and ana-
tomical knowledge of the sculptor. In his right hand he holds
a figure representing the knife with which his skin was taken
off. The veins, arteries and muscles, together with the whole
surface of the body and limbs in a flayed condition, are de-
lineated by the hand of the sculptor with marvellous exact-
ness.

We attended high mass in this church New Year's morn-
ing, the Archbishop of Milan presiding. But I must hasten
to a close.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 115

On the morning of the 3rd of January we left Miian and
arrived here, in Venice, the city of waters, the following
evening.

LORENZO SNOW.

LETTER XXXIY

Venice — A Railroad on Piles— A City without Horses, Cabs or Omnibuses-
Gondolas— Sailing Along the Streets— Method of Building— The Grand
Canal— Three Hundred and Six Bridges— The Rialto— The Armenian
Monastery— Former Residence of Lord Byron— A Mad-house— National
Arsenal — Ancient Arms — Trophies of War — Played Alive —Terriblo
Method>f Execution— The Republic-Last of the Doges— Mercantile
Marine.

Venice, Italy, January 6th, 1873.
Editor Deseret News:

Having completed our explorations in this city, I will
now send you a few items extracted from my journal.

The railroad over which we traveled, as it approaches
Venice, is built on piles, extending about two miles from the
main land before it reaches the suburbs of the city ; the sta-
tion was about one mile distant from our hotel. Grand Hotel
Victoria. Our usual mode of conveyance was not at our com-
mand. We had passed the limits of cabs and omnibuses— they
are known only in story by the Venetians. But three horses
could be found in all Venice, and these were exhibited as ob-
jects of curiosity and as specimens of the singular quadruped
employed for service and pleasure by people beyond the sea.

We took two gondolas, each propelled by two oarsmen ,

116 COERESPONDENCE OF

and steered for the hotel. It was dark and we could discern
objects around us only as they apjjeared in the light from
lamps suspended, here and there, from buildings which lined
the narrow passages through which we passed as we wended
our way into narrow lanes turning this way and that, until
we seemed lost in a labyrinth of turns and angles. At last
we terminated our perambulations at the lower stej^s of a
large stone stairway. Here we were received hy the proprie-
tor of the hotel, who conducted us up several flights of stairs,
and into elegant, capacious apartments.

Venice contains a population of one hundred and thirty
thousand. It is situated on a cluster of small islands,
seventy or eighty in number, several miles from the main
land, in the midst of a broad sheet of water, partially sepa-
rated from the sea by a large sandbank several miles in
length. These islands are made principally of mud thrown
up by the currents of water, not sufficiently consolidated,
however, to build upon, independent of artificial appliances.
The following practice is commonly adopted in preparing the
foundations : the spot selected for the edifice is enclosed by
some substantial work, impervious to water, sunk into the
mud. The water is then pumped out, and the mud or loose
dirt excavated from six to eight feet in depth. The space is
then filled with piles driven to a depth of fifteen or twenty
feet. Cement is filled in between them and the tops covered
with the same material. Thick planks are laid over this cover-
ino" upon which are built three or four feet of rock. The
dirt or mud is rex^laced around this mass, so that the entire
woodwork is perfectly covered. The walls of the buildings,
consisting chiefly of small red brick, are laid upon this rook-
work, which stands one foot or more above high- water mark.
Except in one or two instances we saw no appearance of the
walls giving way, although some of these edifices have been
standing probably one thousand years. A vast amount of
expense is incurred in constructing these foundations ; it is

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 117

said tliat lialf the cost of the buildings in Venice lies under
water.

The Grand Canal runs tortuously through the city, and
is the principal thoroughfare for traffic or amusement. The
city is intersected by one hundred and forty- six small canals,
which constitute the water streets of Venice, affording means
for passengers to be conveyed to any quarter of the city.
Three hundred and six bridges cross these canals. The Grand
Canal, which varies in width from one hundred and fifty to
three hundred feet, is crossed by the famous bridge Eialto,
under which we passed on one of our excursions. There are
passages alongside of some of these canals and in various
other parts of the city leading over the bridges, but they are
very narrow and crooked, frequently not over seven and gen-
erally not exceeding ten feet in width.

We visited the Armenian Monastery, on the Island of
St. Lazarus, about two miles from our hotel. We reached it
by the usual mode — the gondola, enjoyed a pleasant ride
over a broad sheet of water dotted with ships, steamers and
multitudes of gondolas. On arriving at the monastery, the
presiding monk received us kindly, and conducted us through
the establishment, and gave such statistical information as
we required in relation to the affairs of the society and the
institution. It embraces a college for young Armenians, a
museum, a library of thirty thousand volumes, a printing
press and office, and a beautiful chapel. Lord Byron lived
here six months and studied the Armenian language. We
saw his autograph, which was written in several languages.
A singular custom prevails of hoisting the Turkish flag every
Sunday morning upon the summit of the monastery. At the
present time twenty monks, thirty students and some twenty
assistants constitute the number in the establishment. The
buildings were given by the Venetian government to a Bene-
dictine monk, who had been expelled by persecution from
his native country.

118 CORRESPONDENCE OF

Some of their customs and regulations are rather pecu-
liar. They arise in the morning at a given signal, breakfast
at eight, dine at twelve, when portions of scripture are read,
and retire at ten p. m. All are habited in black gowns.
]^one are admitted as students but Armenians. They must
possess a natural capacity for mental culture, and remain in
the institution till they have acquired a highly finished edu-
cation. Every department of this singular and interesting
establishment bore a neat and orderly appearance, yet rather
sombre and gloomy, owing no doubt to the fact that woman is
excluded from the society.

President Smith describsd our pilgrimage to the great
American Desert, what we had accomplished as a people,
and explained some of the prominent features of our religion,
all of which was listened to with marked attention, and
enquiries were made on various subjects connected with our
history.

On returning to our hotel we passed a mad-house. Some
of the inmates were playing on musical instruments, others
were silently gazing tlirougli their windows upon the sea,
some fiercely gesticulating as though angry at our approach,
while others again were rushing to and fro yelling and shriek-
ing like so man}^ demons. The scene was horrible. We had
intended a visit inside the building, but what we witnessed
answered our purpose.

We visited the Kational Arsenal, containing models of
ships, galleys, &c., with specimens of various arms and armor
used by the Venetians in their wars at different periods, also
many trophies taken from the Turks and other enemies.

Two statues, standing together in a conspicuous position,
appeared to attract considerable attention from visitors.
They represented two Turkish generals chained together and
suffering death by a singular method of torture. These offi-
cers, in a battle with the Venetians, had taken one of their
generals prisoner, whom they caused to be flayed alive— his

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 119

skin sewed together, stufted with straw, the figure dressed
in his own clothing, and then exhibited to the Turkish popu-
lace for their amusement. These officers were afterwards
captured by the Venetians, stripped, chained together, placed
in an exposed condition and covered from head to foot with
honey or molasses, and left to be eaten by flies, gnats, mos-
quitoes and other insects.

Venice, which now forms a portion of the kingdom of
Italy, for over thirteen hundred years maintained a republi-
can form of government. It had a succession of one hundred
and twenty-two Doges, the last of whom, Daniel Manin, abdi-
cated in August 1849, and was driven into exile by the Aus-
trians. He went to Paris, where he was obliged to give
lessons in Italian to sustain himself and family. He died in
September 1857.

In the brightest day of its prosperity, the republic pos-
sessed over three thousand mercantile ships and thirty-six
thousand sailors, and considered itself mistress of the seas.
Several interesting circumstances connected with the history
of this government, strikingly illustrated by various objects
we saw, I should like to notice, but must defer for the
present.

LOKENZO SNOW.

120 COREESPONDENCE OF

LETTER XXXV.

More about Venice— Historical Reminiscences— Administration of the Doges
Destruction of the Republic— Vandalism of Napoleon— Curious Method
of Burial— Popularity of Victor Emanuel— Old Palace of the Doges-
Senate and Council Chambers— Bridge of Sighs— House of Shylock— Resi-
dence of Othello— Palace of Desdemona— Dwelling Place of Marco Polo-
Remains of St. Marc the Evangelist— Columns of Solomon's Temple-
Granite Slab from Mt. Tabor— Slab from the Prison of John the Baptist-
Ancient Tombstones, &c.

Hotel Brun, Bologna, January 8tli, 1873.
President Brigham Young:

With thanks to our heavenly Father for his mercies I
can inform you that myself and company are in good health.
Brother George Dunford, for business reasons, started for
home yesterday. He was a pleasant companion to travel
with and we regret much the necessity of his return.

We spent five days in Venice, which was peculiarly in-
teresting to me for its historical associations and peculiar
location. At the time that Attila invaded Italy, and des-
troyed Aquila, which was then the great mart of trade in
northern Italy, the panic-stricken inhabitants of the neigh-
boring towns, fearing a like fate from the barbarian, took
shelter in some low mud islands or banks, formed by the
wash of several rivers, north of the Po, in what is called the
lagoon of the Adriatic, driving piles in the mud, using the
various streams as canals, covering the piles with cement and
mud, laying upon them foundations of rock, from which in
an incredibly short time grew the great naval power of the

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 121

republic of Venice, which retained its independence thirteen
hundred years, and may probably during one thousand years
have been considered a first-class power. Its government,
though termed republican, was a consolidated aristocracy,
and very tyrannical. But few of the people had the right to
vote, and they elected from the aristocratic class the senate,
and the senate selected forty of their number, who again
selected ten, who again selected three of their number, in
whose hands was centred a good deal of absolute power.

The Grand Doge or reigning duke was elected for life by
the senators, and seemed to possess much greater powers than
the sovereigns of England do at the present time. Some of
these reigning presidents were men of extraordinary ability,
and extended the dominion of Venice over many islands and
countries. One of them captured and plundered Constanti-
nople and brought from that place many trophies, which were
shown us with pride and satisfaction.

The canals of Venice are streets, the carriages are boats
called gondolas. They are all built of one pattern and
painted black. There are but three horses in the city, which
contains one hundred and thirty thousand inhabitants ; every
hotel, wealthy gentleman and business man have their boats
tied to their doors. The republican government was extin-
guished by Napoleon I. in 1797, and although the place sub-
mitted to his authority without any resistance, he committed
many acts of vandalism, such as carrying away to Paris
many choice paintings, statues and souvenirs of Venetian
greatness ; plundering the churches of their gold and silver
ornaments, and sending them to the mint; scattering the
monks and nuns to the four winds, telling the nuns they
should be raising boys to fill his armies; breaking in pieces
the winged lion wherever it was to be found, it being the
proud emblem of Venetian power; destroying the magnifi-
cent ship in which the Grand Doge of Venice hael married
the Adriatic seven hundred times, and ca'^t into the sea as

122 CORRESPONDENCE OF

many gold rings. An immense amount of gold and silver
used in ornamenting tliis vessel lie sent to the mint. Venice
had two hundred churclies, many of them very costly edi-
tices; sixty-seven of tliese he tore down, converting the land
on which they stood and their materials to other purposes.
A monastery which contained 1,'iOO monks was converted
into a custom house. Up to this time all the dead had been
buried in churches. This he prohibited, and since that time
a cemetery has grown up in the lagoons, formed by the earth
deposited there for the purpose of making an island, and is
being enlarged from year to year by the mud which is taken
from the canals, which are as numerous as the streets of
other cities. This mud is a clay, and is secured by piles
capped with cement, upon wliich walls are built next to the
sea. The ground is raised six feet above high-water mark.
The dead are buried four feet below the surface. The poor
are buried in trenohes, one coffin lying close against another,
but only one tier deep. The last one buried is left uncovered
ready for the next one to be laid against it, and then the
trench is filled. Twenty-four of this class had been buried
there this year when I was there, the sixth of January.
Ground for single graves could be purchased by any persons
for eighteen francs, and all who felt able buried their dead on
their own ground thus obtained. These private graves are all
marked with a cross, many of iron, some of wood and many
of stone. These monuments were generally plain and taste-
ful. A small enclosure beautifully decorated is used for a
Protestant burying place. Among the number buried there
were many English and Germans, but only one American,
William Sparks, aged 30, died August 19, 1849. Few Amer-
icans have had the opportunity to drop a tear over this loneh'-
grave of their fellow countryman. He was U. S. Consul at
Venice at the time of his death. A large addition to the
Catholic cemetery has just been finished and brought into
use. The hundreds of palaces along the Grand Canal, many

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 123

of them fine specimens of arcliitecture, are mostly going to
decay. While Venice belonged to the Austrians, which was
about fifty years, the Austrian government made Trieste the
port of entry and few ships visited Venice. But now, under
the Italian government, its trade has revived, and steamers
and ships give sociability and character and commercial life
to the almost dead city. We heard expressions of approba-
tion and loyalty to Victor Emanuel and to Italian unity,
though they seem to feel heavily the increased taxation which
it has cost to bring it about — two wars with Austria, one with
Naples and one with the States of the Church.

I am satisfied that Victor Emanuel is personally popular
with the people. While in Venice we visited two glass fac-
tories, where man}^ fine specimens of glass were produced.
We visited the palace of Victor Emanuel, or about a hundred
rooms of it, which he occupies during his annual visits to
Venice, the old palace of the Doges, the Senate and Council
Chambers, the ancient prison, crossing the Bridge of Sighs
and returning. We ascended tlie monument in St. Marc's
Square, the highest in Venice, visited the Academy of Arts,
several galleries of antiquities, the arsenal, the Armenian con-
vent, and many other places, particulars related concerning
whicli may have been more imaginary than real, as the house
of Shylock, the merchant of Venice, where the city now
keeps a pawnbroker's office. Our guide showed us the first
church built in Venice, in 421, the house of Othello, the
palace of Desdemona, the house of Marco Polo the great
Venetian traveller and explorer in Asia, the palace of the
Queen of Cyprus, and many other places that history, art
or poetry have rendered familiar with us. Our guide showed
us many holy relics preserved in St. Marc's Cathedral : the
coffin containing the body of St. Marc, which he assured us
was genuine, it having been brought from Alexandria eight
liundred years ago. The body had been smuggled on board
a Venetian ship in a basket of vegetables, thus eluding the

124 CORRESPOXDEI^CE OF

vigilance of the infidel guard, and bringing the remains of
the Evangelist to Venice, to rest in a marble coffin and to be-
come the patron saint of the city. Our guide showed us some
columns of Solomon's temple, that were semi-transparent, a
slab of granite, seven feet by seven, from Mount Tabor, upon
which the Saviour stood when he was transfigured, a slab
from the prison of John the Baptist, upon which his head
fell when it was stricken off by the command of Herod. In
pointing to the door he said, '* There is preserved his head."
The door is only opened on Fridays. The marble chair of
;st. Marc, and many other relics, he assured me, were genuine,
as they had been brought to Venice eight hundred years
ago.

I have to day been looking at some tombstones and
remains of Etruscan nobles, which were buried nearly three
thousand years ago. Tliere are many good specimens of gold
jewelry and ornam^ents of earth and glass and metal, show-
ing that the inhabitants of Bologna three thousand years ago
WQYQ acquainted with many of the arts.

GEOEGE A. SMITH.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 125

LETTER XXXYI

Architectural Appearance of Venice — Ancient Customs— Fires— Plague and.
Pestilence— Council of Ten— Traitor Beheaded— Instruments of Torture —
Bridge of Sighs— Bologna— An Arcade with 700 Arches— Leaning Towers
— Florence, the Most Beautiful of Italian Cities— Paintings and Sculpture
— A Wonderful Cabinet of Gems and Works of Art.

Florence, Italy, January 13tli, 1873.
Editor Deseret News:

We left Venice on the morning of the 8th ult. , stopped
one day at Bologna, arriving in Florence on the evening of
the 9th.

In the first place, allow me to copy a few more items
from my journal in reference to Venice, and its celebrated
republic. The physical appearance of the city— its private
edifices, palaces, cathedrals and other public buildings, are
in a state of decay, and portions of the city, which formerly
were covered with fresco paintings and other decorations
and shone in splendor, appear now as if clothed in habili-
ments of mourning. In passing along the Grand Canal, in
our gondola, we were forcibly impressed with the gloomy
and solitary aspect of the numerous mansions and palaces
which line this great thoroughfare. The immense trade and
traffic this city formerly commanded have been changed into
other channels, leaving unfortunate Venice terriblj^ crippled
in her commerce and manufactures, and no longer able to use
those strange methods formerly employed to preserve exclu-
sively to herself men of skill and genius, whereby she com-

126 CORRESPONDENCE OF

pelled surrounding nations to pour their gold and silver into
her treasuries ; that day has forever passed. The following is
a specimen illustrative of the style which Venice formerly
adopted to secure the advantages of her manufactures—

"If any workman carry bis art to a foreign country, to the prejudice of
the Republic, be shall be ordered to return; if he do not obey, his nearest
relatives shall be imprisoned that his regard for them may induce him to re-
turn, which, if he does, he shall be forgiven and employment again provided
for him ; if, in despite of the imprisonment of his relatives, he perseveres in
bis absence an emissary shall be employed to dispatch him ; and after his
death his relatives shall be set free."

One would hardly imagine that a city built in the sea
would sutler heavy losses by hre; the history of Venice,
however, proves the contrary — at various times fires have
burst out, doing immense damage, in some instances con-
suming palaces, cathedrals and whole blocks of private dwell-
ings. This city has also experienced heavy losses by inun-
dations, which on one occasion threatened the destruction of
the entire city. Neither has its favorable position, sur-
rounded by sea breezes, protected it from the destructive
hand of pestilence.

In the middle of the fourteenth century three fifths of
the poj)ulation were destroyed by contagious disease. In
the latter part of the same century nineteen thousand peo-
ple died by pestilence. In the beginning of the fifteenth
century a pestilence swept away forty thousand inhabitants.
From July 1G30, to November 1631, the mortality of Venice
amounted to forty-six thousand.

A long line of 122 Doges successively performed the ex-
ecutive functions of the Venetian government — many of them
men of talent and great ability, administering the laws in
wisdom and with unbiassed judgment. In the beginning of
the fourteenth century the famous Council of Ten was organ-
ized and continued as a magistracy nearly five hundred years.
Tliough this Council has been regarded as tyrannical and

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 127

cruel, the object of its establishment was noi objectionable, it
being designed to prevent encroachments of the Doges and
Senate upon the rights and liberties of the people ; and it
answered this purpose until demoralized by the innovations
of luxury and extravagance, when it became an instrument
of oppression and cruelty. Mementos of those deeds of
darkness were pointed out to us, while others were shown us
illustrative of the powerful manner in which this Council
administered justice before it fell from itshigli moral position,
as in the following examples : Fifty years after the organiza-
tion of the Council of Ten, the Doge Manin Faliero had been
guilty of conspiring to overthrow the Republic. This Coun-
cil examined his case, found him guilty, and sentenced him
to be beheaded. The sentence was executed on the same spot
where he had been crowned with the ducal cap. He died
begging pardon of the people and acknowledging the jus-
tice of his punishment. In a magnificent hall, splendidly
decorated, we saw the portraits of the Doges placed in regu-
lar succession around the apartment ; but Manin Faliero's
place was covered with a painting of a b'ack vail! One
hundred and twenty years succeeding the appointment of the
Council of Ten, they passed the following sentence on one of
the Republic's most distinguished generals, who, having
grown tired of xoatriotism, had organized a plot against the
government ;

" Francis Carmaguola, public traitor of our dominion, let him be led with
a dovetail in his movith and with his hands bound behind his back, as is the
custom to-day, the fifth of May, afternoon, usual hour, between the two col-
umns of St. Mark's Square, in the usua' place of justice, and there let his
head be severed from his shoulders, till ue dies."

This sentence was directly executed.

We saw many objects of exciting interest associated with
the history of the Doges, the Venetian Republic, the Inquisi-
tion, the Council of Ten, the instruments and modes of
human torture, the loathsome dungeons, " Bridge of Sighs,"

128 CORRESPONDENCE OF

tlie place of midnight executions, etc., which I will not at
present attemj^t to describe.

Leaving this city of the sea, we came to Bologna, a town
of about 110,000 inhabitants, arriving at 1 o'clock p. m., the
8th of January. Bologna is charmingly situated on an ex-
tensive plain, bordered by the lower slope of the Apennines.
We visited several establishments containing many objects of
curiosity and historical interest, and perambulated the city
and its environs. It contains numerous churches and other
public edifices, many of them very magnificent, among which
is an arcade that has 700 arches. Two leaning towers
attracted our attention, one of which, the Arsenelli, was built
764 years ago. Its height is 256 feet and it inclines three feet
from the perpendicular. The other, the Garasandi, is 130 feet
high, with an inclination of eight feet. Whether this lean-
ing tendency was from design or accident, tradition differs.

We arrived in Florence on the 9th, with the intention of
remaining four days. This city is situated on the river Aruo,
in a great plain enclosed by hills, clotlied with fruitful vine-
yards and line gardens, and checkered with lovely villas.

Florence numbers 150,000 inhabitants, and is the richest,
the fairest and most beautiful city in Italy, and affords the
most attractive residence for foreigners. The poet says of it,
" Of all the fairest cities of the earth, none is so fair as Flor-
ence." The nobility and aristocracy of every nation, during
this season of the year, rendezvous here for health and
pleasure. A boautiful promenade and carriage drive extend
several miles along the river Arno, bordered with rich shrub-
bery ; adjacent is a fine park. In the afternoon the scene, in
this vicinity, is lively and animating — multitudes of prome-
naders in fiishionable attire, and gentlemen exhibiting their
best horses, finest carriages and equipages, and the ladies
their gayest plumage. One day, while amusing myself in
noticing the fashionable and sparkling groups of ladies
promenading the rock-paved side- walk along the Arno, I

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 129

remarked to my sister that I tlion^lit we had found where
the fashion of mis-shaping the naturally beautiful human
figure, by back bustling, equals that of our ladies of Salt
Lake. She differed in opinion— considering the style here
less grotesque.

This city possesses many grand historical monuments and
collections of art. In the gallery of paintings and sculpture
we noticed the finest specimens we have seen since we came
to Italy. A magnificent '' Cabinet of Gems " attracted our
attention, which is decorated with four columns of Oriental
alabaster, and contains six large cases of upwards of four
hundred articles of workmanship in precious stones, rock
crystal, etc., enriched with pearls and diamonds. There are
eight columns of sienite agate, eight of rock crystal, and
eight statues of the Apostles. Three busts of women in
hyacinth, a vase in agate, a cup in green emerald, also one
of rock crystal with a gold enamelled cover, a statue of a
warrior in gold, ornamented with diamonds, a jasper cup or-
namented with gold, a head in torquoise, the eyes of which
are diamonds, a bowl in form of a sea-shell in blood red
jasper, a cup made out of a single garnet, etc., the whole con-
stituting a wonderful exhibition of skill and art.

I close my description of this modern Athens. We leave
here to-morrow for Pisa, celebrated for its leaning towers,
where we remain one day ; from there we go to Rome.

LORENZO SNOW.

130 CORKESPONDENCE OF

LETTER XXXVII.

Visit to an Infant School— Singing— Exercises in Reading and Writing-
Lunch Time— Excellent Order — Medicine and Beds for the Sick, &c.

DESCKIPTION OF A BABY SCHOOL.

Floeence, Italy, January 13tli, 1873.
Editor Juvenile Instructor:

While in Paris, after having called on the '^Prefecteur,"
President George A. Smith received a note from him, con-
taining permission for all of our party to visit all, or any of,
the schools in Paris.

We visited several with much interest, but were most
amused with the one I am about to describe to the young
readers of the Juveiiile Instructor, It was composed of boys
and girls from three to six years of age.

As we approached the door of the schoolroom, we were
charmed with the sound of infantile voices, united in singing
sweetly, as none but children can sing. We took them by
surprise, for our visit had not been announced.

The room was large, and the seats, all facing the same
way, were elevated one above another, with the largest chil-
dren on the upper row, and all seated in gradation, down to
the lowest, on which the little things looked like mere babies.

Our entrance did not seem to create the least excitement
— no one moved out of place ; and when called upon by their
head teacher, a middle-aged, amiable appearing woman, to

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 131

give spscimens of exercises, they responded without liesita-
tion. We heard several of the eldest, and some pretty small
ones, read, and saw specimens of writing on the blackboard
which were very creditable. They sang seveml pieces for our
amusement, in which the whole school joined, even to the
smallest baby.

I noticed three aisles — one through the centre of the
rows of seats, and one at each end, so that the entire school
could move out without confusion. Indeed, order seemed
to be a very prominent feature in this school discipline
which we had a fine opportunity for witnessing.

It so happened that our visit in this department was at
noon, the children's lunch time, and we saw tliem march
in single file— the largest in front, and so along down to the
smallest— each placing hands on the shoulders of the one
fronting him or her, and all singing merrily as they went
into a large adjoining room. Tliis room had seats through
the centre, and uj) and down the sides. Under the side seats
were deposited neat little baskets with the children's lunch •
and, as they marched, under the direction of the teachers
around this room, in slow, regular order, each one took up
his or her basket, swung it on an arm and marched on,
until the last baby scholar had received hers. A few, who
were too small to look after their baskets, were helped by larger
ones, who took them up and hung them on the arms of their
little owners.

A considerable length of time was required for this ;
and, as a matter of course, children in school from half past
eight in the morning till twelve, as these had been, must be
hungry ; and it required a good deal of practice in se]f-denial
to wait the proper time for eating. I watched them closely,
but did not detect one child prying into a basket until the
last one was seated. Then all at once stopped singing, and
raising the lids of their baskets, commenced to devour the
contents, and with as much chit-chat and sociability as a

132 CORRESPONDENCE OF

group of philosopliers, with the exception of a few who were
out of health. Those, the matron called into a small adjoin-
ing room, which served as a drugshoj), and dealt to each a
dose of cod liver oil, before they lunched.

I took the liberty of examining their baskets, and found
theu- lunch to consist, generally, of bread and butter and a
bottle of wine, which, in this country, almost seems a neces-
sity instead of being a luxury. Those mothers who wished
their children to have warm lunches, could either bring or
send it into the vestry, where the matron or teacher receives
it; but neither parent nor servant is admitted in, so as to
mingle with the children. •

We saw little beds or mattresses on which the smallest
ones are placed when they fall asleep, and they are permitted
to sleep as long as they please. We were told that these
children always sing when they move — singing seems to be
their element. They looked happy in their schoolroom ; and
to see thetn at lunch — eating and drinking, and full of chat
and fun, was a very amusing and interesting sight. I pre-
sume that as many as one hundred and fifty were present,
perhaps more. This is the only school in Paris composed of
boys and girls. This is called an ^' Object school."

I have not visited a "kindergarten," but hope to do so
on my return, and report to the readers of the Jitvenile In-
structor.

ELIZA E. SNOW.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 133

LETTER XXXYIII.

Bologna— House of Galvani, Inventor of the Galvanic Battery— University of
Anatomy— Florence— Railroad through the Apennines— A Tunnel Two
Miles Long— Damage by High Waters- Rome— The Forum— Triumphal
Arch of Titus— Ruins of Heathen Temples— The Colosseum — Arch of
Constantine— Famous Churches— Aqueduct of Nero— St. Anthony's Day,
Blessing Horses and Asses— Pio Xono— Italian Unity— Victor Emanuel
Denounced.

Hotel D'Allemagne, Eome, Italy,

January 17tli, 1873.
Pkesident Bkigham Youxg:

I wrote to you on the 1st, on tlie 3rd and on the Tth of
the present month, at which time we were at Venice. Since
then we have visited Bologna, a city of the Romagna, having
about 100,000 inhabitants, somewhat remarkable for its walls
and arcades. It was here that the galvanic battery got a
start, and the house of Galvani was shown to us, and also
the room in which the experiment was tried. Anatomy was
first taught in the same room. Tiie University has now 400
students, and claims to be one of the oldest in the world.

We spent several days at Florence, which is a very fine
city, and has been for several years the capital of Italy, and
there are less signs of rottirg down and decay in this city
than in any other we have seen. The railroad from Bologna
to Florence, leading over and through the Apennines, passes
throug'.i 4.5 tunnels, over many bridges, heavy fills and deep
cuts, and finally comes down the mountains like a succession
of mammoth W's. One of the tunnels is about two miles long,
and several others are of considerable length.

Great damage has been sustained in many parts of Italy

134 CORRESPONDENCE OF

by higli water, and we have been several times delayed and
had to change cars in consequence thereof.

To-day we have visited tlie ancient Roman Forum, with
the ruins of the Triumphal Arch of Titus, the Temple of
Augustus, of Castor and Pollux, of Vespasian, of the Basil-
ica Julia, the Rostrum, etc. , etc. Thence we went to the ruins
of tlie Colosseum, to the Temple of Venus and Rome, the Arch
of Constantine, the Cathedral of St. John Lateran,the Aque-
duct of Nero, the Scala Sancta, the Church of Maria Maggiore,
and the Church of St. Anthony, and as it was St. Anthony's
day, we saw tlie blessing of horses, mules and jackasses.
They were driven up in front of the church ; the officiating
priest in his robes, surrounded by a number of his assistants
also in uniform, came out of the church, reading a solemn
service in Latin, and when he got through he sprinkled a
little water towards the horses, pocketed the money and
retired. Though it may seem ridiculous, this service has been
performed hundreds of times to-day, and there was a com-
plaint of irreverent feeling, that all the people did not get
their horses blessed.

Pio Nono keeps himself closeted in the Vatican, and
does not intend to make a public appearance while the here-
tic Victor Emanuel controls the city.

The Italian Parliament is in session, and Italy is now
enjoying the benefits of its united government in its postal
arrangements, currency and custom dues. Instead of eight
set^^ of officers there is but one, and the postal arrangements
with America are better than those in France.

The high church party denounces Victor Emanuel in
severe language, while the red republicans do the very same
thing in nearly the same language.

Our party are in usual health. Since I left Bologna I
have had enough of rheumatism to make me think of Dixie,
for the climate is quite mild.

GEORGE A. SMITH.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 135

LETTER XXXIX

At Rome— Ruins of Ancient Temples — Excavating the Forum — The Holy-
Staircase — Arch of Titus — The Colosseum — St. Anthony's Day — Palaces
of the Emperors— Ruins of Caligula.

EoME, Italy, January 18tli, 1873.
Hy Dear Sister M. T. Smoot:

You in Provo, and I in Rome ! Who wonld have antic-
ipated tliis wide separation? Yesterday, Mr. Wood, Mr.
Cook's agent, with whom arrangements were previously made
to show us the most important points here, conducted us to
some portions of the ruins of this ancient city. We were
shown the remains of the Temple of Venus, Jupiter, etc., the
ancient Forum, the Rostrum so famous for speechifying —
portions of gigantic columns in a reclining position, several
standing in their original places and in a good state of pres-
ervation, considering their great age. We were informed
that the late Popes have exercised their influence in preserv-
ing these ruins, which are now attracting the attention of great
numbers of people from other parts, particularly from Eng-
land and America.

At the expense of the government, many hands are now
employed in excavating a portion of the great Forum of the
ancient emperors, the Csesars, etc., which, by gradual chan-
ges and usages, has been at times occupied by shepherds, and
has been buried to the depth of several feet by accumulations
of debris. There is a paling around the ruins, and no
one is allowed to enter without permission. As we stood on

136 CORIIESPONDEXCE OF

a portion that has been nnburied, we saw the stalwart guard-
officer hurry a man off from the premises, who, no doubt,
had stealthi]}^ intruded. We were all right, for our guide,
an Englishman, seemed to be of considerable consequence;
he is agent and sub-editor of the Swiss Times, an arch^olog-
ical lecturer, etc. When he conducted us to the " Holy Stair-
case," said to be the identical one that the Saviour ascended
in the court of Pilate, I asked him if he would swear to it.
He said, emphatically, " I will not swear to any tiling." But
directly afterward he said, "I will swear to the aqueduct, and
I will swear that the stairs were brought from Jerusalem, and
I will swear to the Arch of Titus," whicli was before us.
We saw a man and woman slowly ascending the stairs, which
none are allowed to ascend except on their knees ; our incred-
ulity prompted us to accept the suggestion of our guide and
ascend by a side flight, which was considered less sacred ; we
found a representation of Christ on the cross in front of the
"Sacred Stairs." We visited the celebrated Colosseum, which
must have been a most magnificent structure in earlier days,
being capable of seating eighty-seven thousand, with stand-
ing room for twenty thousand more.

It was St. Anthony's day, and we witnessed the ceremony
of blessing animals, which was the most amusing of all. On
that day the priest blesses horses, mules, donkeys and all
kinds of animals. A fine span of horses, richly caparisoned,
was driven in front of the church ; the priest, with several
attendants, came out, dressed in black gowns with white
tunics. Standing in front of the horses, with grave pompos-
ity, he read a service in Latin, which probably the animals
understood as well as himself; after which he took a long
handled swab from a kettle, in the hand of a boy standing by
his side, and spirted water (probably "Holy,") in the direc-
tion of the horses' faces, but not far enough to reach them ;
and then, after pocketing his fee, the priest returned into the
church. The coachman, a young man, could hardly hold

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 137

Ms countenance, looking as if he were witnessing a ftirce,
and felt that the spectators all sympathized wi^li him.

Monday, January 20th.

Yesterday afternoon Mr. Wood took us through, around
and under many of the ruins of the palaces of the emperors
—portions of the walls built by early Romans. Many of the
specimens show vestiges of beauty and magnificence. In
several instances, trees have grown in crevices of ponderous
edifices which were constructed of rock, brick and cement,
their growth having made large openings, forcing the struc-
tures apart and thus producing dilapidation. I will enclose
you a leaf which I plucked from a shrub growing on the
remains of the ruins of Caligula. In exhuming these ruins,
inscriptions are found which identify many of them.

Last night Brother Carrington joined us, and brought
what of our mail had arrived in Liverpool. * * * ->^ We
are all in good spirits ; my health was never better, although
•' sight-seeing " is not the easiest work in the world. Clara
and I get along just as well as two persons could do, and I
feel no lack of companionship.

I get but little time to write, have done this by " piece-
meal." With much love, I am as ever,

ELIZA E. SNOW.

138 COREESPONDENCE OF

LETTER XL

Rome and its Populati<in— The Seven Hills — Purchase of Real Estate by
Napoleon III — Excavations by the Government— The Forum — Anthony
and Julius Csesar — Where Virginius Stabbed his Daughter — Famous
Obelisks — Temple of Venus — The Tarpeian Rock— Dimensions of the
Colosseum— Visits to Cathedrals— St, Peter's— A Call on the American
" Minister,

EoME, Italy, January 21st, 1873.
Editor Deseeet News:

We arrived here on the 15th uU. This city is built on
both sides of the Tiber, about fifteen miles from where it
empties into the Mediterranean. In 1867, it contained 215,
000 inhabitants, of whom 6,000 were clergymen, 5,000 nuns,
4,500 Jews, 450 Protestants, 7,300 soldiers, and, in the winter
season, about 25,000 visitors. In the day of its greatest
prosperity Rome exceeded two millions ; in the middle
of the fourteenth century it had been reduced by disease,
IDOverty and war, to less than twenty thousand people.
What is now understood as modern Rome, is surrounded by
a wall twelve miles in length, about fifty feet high, and built
of brick.

The famous " seven hills" on which Rome was principally
erected are now measurably uninhabited. A few churches,
monasteries, nunneries, old farm houses, gardens and vine-
yards occupy these hills which formerly astonished the world
with marble edifices, palaces and magnificent temj^les; much
of this glory and grandeur now lie from ten to twenty feet
beneath the surface of the ground. Napoleon the Third pur-

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 139

chased extensive grounds on whicli a portion of an'^ient
Rome was built, and expended large sums in excavations to aid
him in his " History of the Caesars." He made many import-
ant discoveries, several of which we saw while exploring the
ruins— portions of streets, temples, beautiful edifices, numer-
ous statues, marble and granite columns, which were found
buried twenty feet underground. The Italian government is
now prosecuting the work commenced by Napoleon, con-
stantly bringing to light Roman history and its antiquities.
We saw sufficient of the remains of the ancient Roman Forum,
the place of popular assemblies, where the orators addressed
the people, to satisfy us of its former grandeur and magnifi-
cence. We stood where Anthony, in his artful speech over
the murdered body of Julius Caesar, aroused the indignation
of the populace against the conspirators ; and where Yirgin-
ius procured his knife, and killed liis daughter to preserve
her from slavery. We also walked over the ground where
the Sabine women rushed frantically between their husbands
and fathers to prevent the impending battle.

In the Piazza di St. Pietro we saw a famous obelisk
which was brought to Rome by the Emperor Caligula and
placed in the Vatican Circus. It was removed in 15S6 and
erected on its present site under the superintendency of
Dominica Fontana. This huge monument weighs nearly one
million of pounds. It is said that Fontana in constructing
Ms machines had neglected to make allowance for the ten-
sion of the ropes, produced by the immense weight, and that
at the critical moment, though the spectators had been pro-
hibited under penalty of death from speaking or shouting,
one of the eight hundred workmen cried out " Aqua alle
funi," i. e., water on the ropes, thus solving the difliculty.
His descendants were granted important privileges for this
hazardous interference. Another obelisk we noticed called
the "Obelisk of the Lateran," of red granite covered with
hieroglyphics, which was brought from Alexandria to the

140 COKRESPONDENCE OF

mouth of the Tiber in a vessel of three hundred oars. It is
supposed to have been standing in Egypt anterior to the exo-
dus of the Israelites, and probably is four thousand years
old. It is 141 feet high, and weighs nearly 455 tons.

Some portions of the celebrated Temple of Venus and
Rome still remain. It was built- by the Emperor Hadrian
after liis own design ; when it was finished, he asked Appolc-
dorus what he thought of it. The architect replied that it
was very good for an emperor, whereupon Hadrian ordered
him to be beheaded.

We went to the "Tarpeian Rock," the precipice from
which criminals were thrown down; there is considerable
rubbish beneath, but it is still sufficiently lofty to insure un-
pleasant results of a fall from its summit.

There are very few monuments that exhibit more effectu-
ally the splendor of ancient Rome than the remains of the
celebrated Colosseum. It was commenced by Vespasian and
completed by Titus, after his conquest of the Jews. It is
said that sixty thousand Jews were engaged ten years in this
gigantic antique structure. After it had fallen into decay, it
was used as a quarry from which were built churches and
palaces until, by its consecration as holy ground, on account
of the number of martyrs supposed to have suffered within
its walls, this vandalism was discontinued. It seated 87,000
people, with standing room for 20,000. Its inauguration,
anno domini 81, continued one hundred days, during which
5,000 wild beasts and 10,000 captives were slain. Its circum-
ference is 1,641 feet, the height of the outer wall, 157, the
length of the arena, 278, and its width, 177 feet, the whole
superficial area, six acres. In the Museum of the Capitol, we
saw a striking representation of the character of the former
scenes enacted in the arena of this amphitheatre. A marble
statue of a dying gladiator— a wonderful specimen of the
perfection to which the art of sculpture had attained. The
figure is in a reclining posture, a deep cut in the side, the

P A L E S T I X E TOURISTS. 141

blood trickling down, a broken sword lying beside it, the
muscles gradually relaxing and strength failing, the linea-
ments of the face expressing intense anguish, yet determined
resolution to conceal pain, as the poet says —

I see before ine the gladiator lie;

He leans upon his hand— his manly brow

Consents to death, but conquers agony,

And his droop'd head sinks gradually low,

And through his side, the last drops, ebbing slow,

From the red gash fall heav}^ one by one.

Like the first of a thundershower ; and now

The arena swims around him ; he is gone

Ere ceased the inhuman shout which hailed

The wretch who won.

We visited several celebrated Koman cathedrals, St.
Peter's first and foremost. The area of this church is 212,321
square feet, its exterior G51 feet in length, its height from the
pavement to the cross on the summit is 448 feet. In contains
290 windows, 390 statues, 46 altars and 748 columns. Tlie
dome rises 318 feet above the roof, and has a circumference
of 652 feet. In the seventeenth century the dome showed
signs of giving way, and was strengthened by means of huge
iron hoops.

We ascend to the lantern by an easy stairway, where we
iiave a magnificent view of the surrounding country, extend-
ing to the blue waters of the Mediterranean. The ball on the
summit affords room for sixteen persons, though from the
ground it appears little larger than a man's hat.

Previous to the Papal states being incorporated into the
Italian kingdom, it was customary, on certain days in the
year, to present from this church a grand spectacle— a vast
illumination of the dome, facade and colonnades by 4 400
lamps. It is thought that this great display will never be
repeated. The Pope has remained singularly quiet, refnsino-
to officiate at public festivals since ''Victor " took possession
of Rome. Some attribute this inaction to a design to awaken

142 COKRESPONDENCE OF

sympathy and create a stirring interest in his favor with
Catholic communities throughout the world. We were in-
formed to-day that the Pope had just received a delegation of
distinguished gentlemen from England, representing a large
body of men who had solemnly engaged to render whatever
assistance he might require.

We called at the American Minister's to-day ; not finding
him at home, we left our cards with his secretary. We shall
probably have an interview with him before leaving Rome.
Our tour under Mr. Cook's management thus far has
proved perfectly satisfactory. Our railroad transits have in-
variably been first-class, and our hotels generally. We
remain here three days longer, then go to Naples.

LOEENZO SNOW.

PALESTIXE TOURISTS. 143

LETTER XLI

Leave Venice— A City with One Hundred and Thirty Churches— A Famous
University— Villa of King Victor Emanuel— Leaning Towers— Road over
the Apennines— " The Garden of Italy"— At Florence— Pisa— The Cam-
panile—The Basilica— Rome— Ancient Ruins— Beggars— Santa Scala or
Holy Staircase— Aqueduct of Nero— The Apollo Theatre— Palaces of the
Csesars— The Pantheon— Capitoline Hill— Prison where St. Peter and St.
Paul were Confined— House of Rienzi— Column of Pius Antoninus—
The Chamber of Deputies— The Sixtine Chapel— Cemetery of the Capu-
chins—Visits to Famous Localities and Places— The Quirinal— The Ap-
pian Way— Tombs of Celebrated Romans— Tumuli of the Horatii and
of the Curatii— Circus of Romulus— The Vatican— Baths of Caracalla—
Golden House of Nero — Statue of Moses, ^

Hotel D'Allemagne, Eome, Italy,

January 23d, 1873.

Editoes Salt Lake Hekald:

After I had mailed my last letter to you from Venice on
the 5th inst., Mr. George Dunford, of our party, received
letters from home that required his immediate return on
account of business matters, and he left us on the mornino- of
the 7th iust. , very much regretting that circumstances did not
permit him to go with us any further. We left Venice on the
8th at 7.40 a. m., X)la Padua and Ferrara, for Bologna, where
we arrived at 12.16 p. m. Tliis is one of the most ancient
and important towns of Italy, the capital of the Eomagna , sit-
uated in a fertile plain at the base of the Apennines, between
the Eeno, and the i:\posa and the Savena rivers ; population
about 90,000. It possesses 180 churches, twenty monasteries
and a venerable and celebrated university. Tlie town was

144 CORRESPONDENCE OF

founded by ths Etrascans. Irnerius introduced the study
of the Roman law in 12G2, whilst his successors, the Glossa-
tors, devoted their energies in its interpretation. The studies
of medicine and philosophy were introduced at a later period,
and a theological faculty was established by Pope Innocent
yi. The anatomy of the human frame was first taught here,
in the 14th century, and here galvanism was discovered by
Joseph Galvani in 1789. It is a remarkable fact, that this
university has numbered members of the fair sex among its
professors, among them Vovella d' Andrea, a lady of great
personal attractions, who is said to have been concealed by
a curtain during her lectures. The antiquated aspect of the
town, its picturesque mediaeval architecture, lofty arcades
and venerable churches, all bear testimony to the i:»eculiar
character of the place. We visited the Gallery of Fine Arts,
the Anatomical Museum, said to be one of the finest in the
world, and took a drive through the town and to the villa of
King Victor Emanuel, situated on a hill, from which a very
fine view is obtained of the city and its environs. Bologna
also boasts of two leaning towers. One of them, the Torre
Asinelli, was erected by Gherardo degli Asinelli in 1,109, is
272 feet high and three feet four inches out of the perpen-
dicular; the other, the Torre Garisenda, was erected in 1,110
byFilippo and Ottone Garisenda, is only 138 feet high, but
eight feet out of the perpendicular. On the 9th we left
Bologna at 1.25 p. m. for Florence. The road over the Tuscan
Apennines is one of the most imposing structures of the
kind in existence. Bridges, forty-five tunnels, and heavy
fills are traversed in uninterrupted succession. Beautiful
views are obtained of the valleys and gorges of the Apen-
nines, and toward Florence we descended on a very steep
grade in a regular zig-zag, and going three times over the
same ground, to the luxuriant plains of Tuscany, called the
*' Garden of Italy." We arrived at Florence at 5.46 p. m.,
and put up at the Hotel Victoria. During our stay we called

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 145

upon the American vice-Consul, Mr. J. C. Matteini, No. 7
Via Maggio, and registered our names. Of the principal
churches we visited the cathedral, a very fine edifice, on the out-
side 555 feet long, 840 feet wide, 354 feet high ; the Battistero,
Carmine, San Croce, San Lorenzo and San Michael, the pal-
aces of Vecchio and Pitti, and a fine gallery of pictures and
statues. Florence has now about 140,000 inhabitants, and is
beautifully situated on both banks of the Arno. The princi-
pal drives and the park are every afternoon crowded with
the finest turnouts of the fashionable world, and we have
never before seen so much display since we left home.
On the 4th inst., we took train* for Pisa at 9.20 a. m., and
reached there about 11.30 a. m. In the afternoon we visited
the Campanile, or clock tower, remarkable for its oblique
position. It was commenced in 1174 and finished in 1350 ; it
rises in eight different stories, is 151 feet high and 12 feet out
of the perpendicular, and is usually known as the "leaning
tower." The Basilica or cathedral close by is a fine edifice,
constructed entirely of white marble, with black and colored
ornamentations, 292 feet in length. These being the princi-
pal attractions of Pisa, we left next morning at 9.50 a. m. for
Rome, where we arrived in beautiful moonlight at 10 p. m.
We put up at the Hotel d'Allemagne and commenced our ar-
rangements for sight-seeing with the agent of Messrs. Thomas
Cook & Son, Mr. Shakespere Wood, on Friday morning the
17th inst., and I will give you the names of all the places of
interest which we visited every day, as it would be impossible
for me to go into details. If you can form any idea of the
distances of this city, once the mistress of tlie world, situat-
ed on seven hills, you will see that we have been doing hard
work to see all that could be seen in so short a time as was
allotted to us. Friday 7th, we visited the old Roman farm,
between the Capitoline and Palatine hills, saw the ruins of
Ihe Basilica Augustus and that of Julia, the Temple of
Castor and Pollux and that of Vespasian, the ruins of the

146 CORRESPONDENCE OF

Public Treasury, the Arcli of Titus, the Rostrum of the cele-
brated Roman orators, the Via Sacra, the old water drain
and marks on the pavement of diiferent games played at that
early period by the "boys" of those Roman citizens.
Thence we drove to the Colosseum, the Temple of Venus and
Rome, the Arch of Constantine, the Church of St. John Lateran,
the Baptisterie close by, where there is a font in which Con-
stantine is said to have been baptized, thence to the Church
of St. Maria Maggiore and the Church of St. Anthony, where
we witnessed the blessing of horses, mules, etc., as it was St.
Anthony's Bay. Some of the horses driven up to the door
of the church, and even oijr own team that we had that day,
really seemed to be in need of a fii-st-class blessing. The
place around the door of the church was lousy with beggars.
After looking at the Santa Scala, or holy staircase, which is
said to have been brought here from the Palace of Pilate, and
on which the Saviour came down from the Hall of Judgment,
and the Aqueduct of Nero, which was thirty-five miles long,
we returned to the hotel, being satisfied that we had done a
good day's work. The following day it rained very hard
and we spent our time in writing up our journals. In the
evening some of our party visited the Apollo Theatre, and wit-
nessed the performance of the Opera of Ballo il Mashere,
which, as the name indicates, includes a regular Italian mas-
querade ball, and finished with the ballet of Gilileo Galileo.
Sunday the 19th we had a sacramental meeting in the morn-
ing and in the afternoon we drove to the extensive ruins of
the palaces of the Caesars.

At 7 p.m. President Albert Carrington arrived, to join
our party, and he brought us our letters from home up to
December 25th, and our semi-weeklies of December 21st
and 25th. Monday the 20th, we visited the Pantheon, the
Capitoline Hill and Museum of Sculpture, the equestrian
bronze statue of Marcus Aurelius, the Marmertine Prison,
where Peter and Paul are said to have been imprisoned,

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 147

the gate Janus Qimdrifons, the Goldsmiths' Arch, ruius of
the Temple of Vesta, of the Temple of Fortuna Virilis, the
house of Rienzi, the Tlieatre of Marcellus, the Column of Pius
Antoninus, the Basilica of St. Paul, which is one of the finest
churches of Rome, the Chamber of Deputies, winch was in
session, and the Church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. Sun-
day, the 21st, we went to the Sixtine Chapel in the Vatican,
containing Michael Angelo's celebrated painting of " The Last
Judgment" and the " Loggie and Stanze " of Raphael. We
then went through the greatest part of the Vatican picture
gallery and the lower portion of St. Peter's Church. In the
afternoon we visited the cemetery of the Capuchins, where
the skulls and skeletons of about 5,400 members of that
order, who had died, were piled up in columns, pilasters and
wall and ceiling ornaments of every conceivable shape, in a
subterranean vault. It was a very peculiar sight indeed.
Then we visited the Church of St. Maria degli Angeli, the
Baths of Diocletian, the Basilica of St. Clement of the 12th
century, below that the Basilica of St. Clement of the 4th
century, with well preserved frescos, which were only dis-
covered several years ago ; and below tliat the house of St.
Clement and the Temple of Methras. We also called the same
day on the American Minister, Mr. George P. Marsh ; but, as
we did not find him in, we left our cards with the secretary of
legation. Wednesday, the 23rd, we visited the Church St.
Augustine, the piazza (square) Navona, which is the site of
the circus Agonalis, the statue of Pasquin, the Varnisi
palace, a very large building, erected of stones taken from
the Colosseum, the guard house of the 7th cohort of the
Vigiles, the Church of Chrysogono, Monte Cavallo, with two
large bronze statues of horses, and on the same square, in the
Quirinal Palace, a number of very elegantly furnished rooms,
now occupied by king Victor Emanuel. In the afternoon we
drove five miles out of the city on the once celebrated Appian
Way, which leads from Rome to Brindisi. The road is lined

148 CORRESPONDENCE OF

on both sides with tombs of celebrated ancient Romans, some
of them very large, and among the rest the tumuli of the
Horatii and Curiatii ; also the ruins of the large villa of the
Quintilli ; the Ustrinum, a place surrounded with walls,
where the dead bodies were burned in former times and the
ashes were put in vases for burial ; thence we drove to the
world-renowned catacombs of Calixtus, the old circus of Rom-
ulus, the Arch of Drusus, the Columbaria, where the vases,
containing the ashes of burnt bodies were preserved in the
walls of the building in niches, similar to pigeon holes on
a large scale. This finished another day's work. On Thurs-
day, the 2'Sd, we drove to St. Peter's, and ascended the dome,
visited the Vatican sculpture gallery, the ruins of the Baths
of Caracalla, covering 40 acres of ground, the Church St.
Stefano Rotonda, containing on its walls paintings of all im-
aginable kinds of martyrdom to which the early Christians
had been subjected. From there we went to the ruins of the
golden house of Nero, which contains some very well pre-
served frescos; to the Baths of Titus on the Esculine Hill,
and finished our programme with the Church of St. Pietro, in
Vinculi, which contains a beautiful white marble statue of
Moses, by the celebrated Michael Angelo. Saturday, the 25th,
we intend to leave for Naples, where we stay till the 30th,
thence we go to Brindisi, where we take steamer for Corfu,
and thence, on the 1st of February, we go aboard the Lloyd
steamer for Alexandria. All of the party are in usual health.

Very truly yours,

PAUL A. SCHETTLER.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 149

LETTER XLII.

Go to Turin and Venice — A Hotel in Water— A City Without Carriages-
Famous and Curious Glass Manufactures — Bridge of Sighs — Bologna,
Florence and Pisa — At Rome — Cemetery of the Capuchins — Burial Place
of Five Thousand Monks — Arches, Chandeliers and Candlesticks of Hu-
man Bones — Palace of Victor Emanuel.

EoME, Italy, January 24th, 1873.

Editoe Woman's Exponent:

From Genoa, where I wrote you last, we went to Turin,
from Turin to Venice. The time has been when Venice exer-
dsed a powerful influence at home and abroad, and claimed
to be " mistress of the seas." That day has gone by. The
hctel at which we put up appeared to be completely imbed-
del in water ; but we found, on the opposite side from where
we entered, stepping from our gondolas on to stone steps, it
clained a narrow strip of terra firma. There is not a car-
riage in the place — in the public garden three horses are
kept on exhibition— all travel and business, except that of
pedeirian capacity, is done on the water by the means of
oars p-opelled by human muscles.

The once boasted silk manufactures of Venice have
dwindld into a solitary one, and that, I was informed, is
workedby hand. In the manufacture of glass I think they
are no^^^ere excelled, especially in that of the ornamental
kind. Ve visited one establishment. It is a curiosity to
see into bw many forms and textures glass can be worked.
We saw ;vomen spinning and reeling it into fine threads,

150 CORRESPONDENCE OF

while others wove it into fanGy plates, necklaces, etc., which
seemed elastic and strong.

The Grand Hotel Victoria, our stopping place, is a fine
establishment, and affords good accommodations for travelers.

But I must hasten on, and leave Venice with its palaces,
palazzas, prisons. Bridge of Sighs, gondolas and canals, for
another consideration ; and from thence to Bologna, thence
to Florence, where for the first time since leaving liome we
are located on the ground floor of the hotel

FLOREIS^CE

Beneath high, villa-dotted hills,

That in succession rise
Like rich gemm'd parapets around,

The'lovely Florence lies.

The Arno, broad and gentle stream.
That flows meand'ring through.

Divides, but in unequal parts,
The city plat in two.

I've seen its princely palaces
Where wealth and ease reside.

Where independence fills her sales
With luxury and pride.

1 see you, Florence, all the while.

So beautiful and gay ;
I ask, Is this your common dress.

Or. this vour holidav?

Or, this your holiday?

Be wise, and, while their golden show'rs
The bounteous heav'ns distil ;

Avoid debasing luxury,
Prolific source of ill.

The crown of peace is on your head.
Its wreath around your brow;

The royal carpet, newly spread.
Adorns your threshold now.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 151

From Florence we went to Pisa, from thence to Eome.

Of the much I have seen here, I can say but little in one
letter. We are traveling under the direction of Mr. Cook,
the London tourist. He furnished a guide to take us out
five days, and show us the most interesting portions of the
city. Our programme concluded last evening ; and feeling
that I have " done " Rome, I am doing up matters to-day,
preparatory to leaving for Naples to-morrow— writing you is
one of the items.

Among the many curiosities witnessed, I will mention
one remarkably singular, although not the most pleasing. It
is the Cemetery of the Capuoliins, in the Franciscan Monas-
tery. Our guide took us to the door, where we were met by a
monk wlio conducted us through four apartments in which
five thousand and four hundred monks had been buried, and
nearly all of tlie bones of these persons were in plain view.
A narrow path on one side of the room afforded a passage,
parallel with which was a railing over a very low wall to pre-
vent intrusion into the main portion of the room which the
bones oxupied. It is impossible to describe the sensation
produced by the sight of millions of human bones assorted
and arranged— some on arches from four to five feet high,
under which a body, apparently in a similar state to that of
an Egyptian mummy, was standing dressed in a black gown,
oth3rs were symmetrically formed into niches where other
bodies were placed in a reclining position ; others were ar-
ranged in fanciful forms and figures on the ceilings above.
The long bones were packed by themselves — the arches being
mostly formed by them, and some of them crowned with
several rows of sculls— the small ones being used in making
ornaments. Everything— the chandeliers, candlesticks, etc.,
were made of bones! The arrangement of them required
nuch care and study, and no very slight artistic skill.

The manner of these monks is, when they bring a body,
ti take up the bones of the one that had been longest buried,

152

CORRESPONDENCE OF

and place the fresh one in the vacancy, and in this way the
bones are accumulating from time to time.

Those bodies which do not decompose are placed in the
arches and niches of these bony structures, and preserved in
this state. We saw a number of them, one, who died as late
as 1867, with whom our guide had been well acquainted.

With all the seemingly ludicrous arrangements, these
bones are sacredly prized by the living monks. On being
asked if they would sell a skull, the answer was decidedly
"no." The strange curiosity of this exhibition interested
me much, but I was glad to turn my face in the direction of
fresh air as soon as the novelty of the scene was explained.

We visited the palace of Victor Emanuel— passed
through halls, reception rooms, ante-chambers, state rooms,
dining rooms, etc., very beautiful — the furniture rich, and
altogether magnificent. We should have been better satis-
fied had we interviewed the occupant, but that was not in-
cluded in the programme.

ELIZA E. SNOW.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 153

LETTER XLIII

Description of the Vatican — Decorations of Michael Angelo — "The Last
Judgment" — Anecdote of Paul III and Michael Angelo— The Appian
Way — Remains of Seneca — Baths of Caracalla — A Much Venerated Chapel
— Footprint of the Saviour— Obelisks — Foram of Trajan — Statue of St.
Peter — Constantino Embracing Christianity — Naples — Herculaneum —
Pompeii — Mount Vesuvius.

Naples, Italy, January 28tli, 1873.
Editok Deseret News:

I will now mention a few more items which came under
our observation while in Rome. We were much interested
in the Vatican Palace, the residence of the Pope. It em-
braces an immense area, ],151 feet in length, 767 in breadth,
eight grand staircases, 200 smaller ones, twenty courts and
4,422 apartments. It contains a vast collection of the most
celebrated marble statuary and paintings in the world.

The ingenuity and wealth of the Roman pontiffs during
many centuries have been employed to make this palace
suitable for the accommodation of the representatives of St.
Peter in regard to splendor and magnificence.

The distinguished artist, Michael Angelo, was engaged a
number of years in decorating some of these apartments
with his best paintings. One of these we noticed in particu-
lar was a large picture in fresco, covering one end of a lofty
room, fifty feet wide ; it is called " The Last Judgment."
Michael Angelo labored nearly eight years upon this work.
Pope Paul III manifested much interest in this painting, and,
to encourage the artist, went to his studio accompanied by

164 COREESPONDENCE OF

ten of his cardinals, which was considered an extraordinary
condescension on the part of "His Holiness." He wished
the picture painted in oil, but the artist would not consent,
declaring that " oil painting was an occupation fit only for
women and idlers and such as had plenty of time to throw
away." In the ujDpcr part of the picture is the Saviour seated
in the act of pronouncing judgment. On one side are a
multitude of saints and patriarchs, on the other the martyrs
with the symbols of their sufferings — St. Catherine with the
wheel on which she was broken, St. Sebastian, with the ar-
rows by which he was killed, St. Bartholomew, carrjdng his
skin, &c. Below is a group of angels soundi.ng the last
trumpet, and carrying the books of judgment. On the left
is represented the condition of the damned — the demons are
seen coming out of the pit to seize them as tbey struggle to
escape, their features expressing the utmost despair, at the
same time exhibiting passions of rage, anguish and defiance.
On the opposite side the saints are rising slowly from their
graves, aided by angels to ascend into the regions of the blest.

Paul III was displeased with the nudity of the figures
and intended to destroy the whole. On hearing this objection
of the Pope, Michael An gel o said, " Tell the Pope that this is
but a small affair, and easy to be remedied — let him reform
the world, and pictures will reform themselves." The Pope
engaged Volterra to cover the most conspicuous figures with
drapery, which caused the Italians to nick-name him Bra-
ghettone, that is the breeches maker. Michael Angelo was
obliged to submit to the Pope's will, but revenged himself in
the following style upon Biagio, master of ceremonies, who
suggested the indelicacy of the figures. He represented him
in one of the angels of the picture standing in hell as Midas,
with asses' ears, his body encircled by a serpent. Biagio
requested the Pope to compel the artist to expunge this
figure, but he declared he could only release from purgatory.

We made an excursion of several miles in the country.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 155

traveling on the celebrated Appian Way, a road built in
ancient times by the Romans. They were accustomed to bury
their dead beyond the city along the sides of this thorough-
fare, for which purpose thousands of monuments were built,
thickly studding both sides of the way, the distance of about
thirteen miles — many of them massive and lofty, built of
brick, stone and concrete, with an external covering of
polished marble, ornamented with beautiful statuary, and
otherwise magnificently decorated. Among the monumental
ruins is one said to contain the remains of Seneca, the great
moralist, one of my favorite authors, who unjustly suffered
death by the order of Nero. His statue in marble, like a pro-
tecting angel, still remains over the crumbling ruins of his
monument, and even should this statue also disappear, the
elevating moral sentiments he inculcated cannot perish, but
will ever perpetuate his memory.

We saw a spacious enclosure where the Romans prac-
tised burning the bodies of the dead, in order to place their
ashes in urns or vases to be deposited in tombs. We were
shown the remains of the bathing establishment of Caracalla,
constructed somewhat on the principle of the Turkish bath.
It embraced an area of about forty acres, most of which had
been covered with arched mason work, now fallen down. A
large portion of the wall still remains ; some fifteen feet
depth of earth has been excavated to show its original plan
and grandeur.

We were conducted into a small chapel held in high
esteem by the Catholics through a tradition that Peter, when
imprisoned in Rome, escaped in the night, and upon reaching
this point the Saviour met him and told him he was going to
Rome to bo crucified the second time, whereupon Peter, tak-
ing the hint, returned to the city and suffered crucifixion. On
the floor of this church is a marble slab with a fac-simile of the
footmark of the Saviour, which is pretended to have been
made upon the road pavement on which he stood.

156 COKRESPONDENCE OF

Rome possesses many obelisks and monumental columns,
one, erected by Bernini, formed of red granite covered with
liieroglypMcs, stands in the Piazza Navona, in the midst of a
fountain, on rock-work forty feet high ; the height of the
obelisk is fifty-one feet. I was amused with an anecdote con-
nected with this monument related by our guide. Bernini
had bitter enemies who insisted that the foundation was in-
adequate to the support of the column. With the greatest
difficulty, overcoming the immense influence against him, he
succeeded in erecting the obelisk. One day his enemies
raised a tremendous excitement by reporting that the foun-
dation was giving way. Tlie square was soon filled with an
enthusiastic populace, every moment expecting the super-
structure to go down. Bernini, on hearing this state of
things, proceeded to the square in his carriage — arriving in
front of his work, disregarding the hisses and groans of the
people, he ordered ladders, connected them together, and as-
cending to the top of the obelisk, drew from his pocket a ball
of twine, unwound until he had four strings, each of sufficient
length to reach across the square, and fastened one end of
each to the top of the column. He then descended — gathered
the opposite ends, walked around the square, fastening each
end at opposite points to the buildings, by means of small
nails driven into the plaster of the walls. He then coolly
stepped into his carriage and drove home. Before he left the
square, however, the people comprehending the joke, hon-
ored him with thundering applause, to the great discomfiture
of his enemies.

The Forum of Trajan has been partially uncovered, re-
vealing statues, broken columns and many otlier relics in
great numbers. One obelisk one hundred and twenty -four
feet high still stands in this Forum, formerly surmounted
by a colossal statue of the Emperor Trajan, now by that of
St. Peter. It is covered with upwards of 2,500 human figures,
averaging two feet in length. In this Forum it is said that

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 157

Constantine, in the presence of the dignitaries of the Empire,
and a vast assemblage of the people, renounced Paganism
and declared for Christianity; tliat upon this announcement
the Christians present raised a loud and prolonged shout of
five minutes continuation. Some Pagan officers, who were
present, looked glum and sullen. The Christians, noticing
this, and firing up under the excitement, motioned that every
Pagan should be compelled to follow the example of their
illustrious Emperor.

We arrived at Naples from Rome on the 25th ult.; have
visited Herculaneum and Pompeii, and to-morrow expect
to climb Mount Vesuvius, notwithstanding the following,
which appeared in the Naples papers of yesterday :

" There has been a slight eruption of Vesuvius in the last twenty-four
hours; flames and red-hot stones were projected to a great height all day-
yesterday, and windows at Castellamare were shaken out by the earth's
vibratory motion. There is an unusual volume of smoke issuing from the
mouth of the crater, and the instruments at the observatory indicate the
presence of strong electrical currents."

Should the aspect of the mountain appear to be threaten-
ing in the morning, we may change our present intentions,
and gratify our curiosity in contemplating it in the distance.

LORENZO SNOW.

158 COEEESPONDENCE OF

LETTER XLIV

Cathedral of St. Januarius — Beggars and Peddlers — Excavations of Pompeii
— Villa of Diomede — Villa of Cicero— Inn of Albinus— Vestals of Nar-
cissus— House of Sallust — Bread Baked 1800 Years Ago— Ancient Baths —
Temple of Fortune— Temples of Jupiter and Mercury — National Museum
— Relics of Pompeii — Herculaneum — Ascent of Vesuvius.

Hotel des Eteangeres, Naples, Italy,

January 29th, 1873.

Editors Salt Lae:e Herald:

On the 25th inst., we left Rome at 1.5 p. m., for Naples,
where we arrived at 8.16 p.ra. Next day, Sunday, the 26th.,
we had a meeting in the morning, and in the afternoon we
drove through the city and the principal promenades, to get
a general idea of this place. This city is beautifully situated
in the form of an amphitheatre, on the bay of Naples, and
has 600,000 inhabitants. The principal church is the Cathe-
dral of St. Januarius, with many fine statues and tombs. The
streets are full of beggars and peddlers, who use all imagina-
ble tricks to get some pennies out of your pocket.

On the morning of the 27th we drove through the villages
of Portici and Resina to the excavations of Pompeii, which
city has been buried nearly eighteen centuries. Among the
principal places visited we saw the villa of Diomede, in
which the skeletons of seventeen persons were found, and
the villa of Cicero in the Street of Tombs, outside of the gate
of Herculaneum ; then inside the gate we visited the inn of
Albinus, the house of the Yestals of Narcissus, the house of

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 159

Sallust, oue of the most elegant in the city, and near by a
bakery where several loaves of bread with the baker's name
stamped on the top were found in the oven, several wine
shops, and the house of Polybius. In the street of Thermae
or Baths, are the houses of Apollo, Meleager, &c. In the
street of the Forum is the Temple of Fortune, the Public
Baths and the School of the Gladiators. In the Forum are
three triumphal arches, built with brick and lava, encased in
marble, the Civil Forum, paved with marble, the Temple of
Jupiter, the Temple of Venus, the Basilica, the tribunals, the
prisons, and the Temple of Mercury. Then we visited the
ruins of the great theatre, 223 feet internal diameter, and the
amphitheatre, with thirty-five rows of steps, divided into
three stages.

The following day we paid a visit to the National Muse-
um, where we found a large and interesting collection of
statues in bronze and marble ; agricultural, mechanical and
surgical implements, articles of glass, etc. , which had been
found in Pompeii, showing that the people living there at
that early period, were highly advanced in many of the arts
and sciences. On our way home from Pompeii we had paid
a short visit to the excavations of Herculaneum twenty-six
feet below the modern town of Resina.

To-day we visited Vesuvius, and had very favorable
weather, and a fine view over the city, and bay of Naples,
the island of Capri, the villages of Portici, Resina, Torro del
Greca, Castellamare and Sorrento. We drove to the Her-
mitage, wliere we arrived at 11.30 a. m. At noon we started
on ponies, and President Smith in an arm-chair, carried by
four men, for the foot of the cone. Arrived there at 12.45
p.m., and after a very steep and fatiguing ascent through
loose gravel, we reached the crater at 2 p.m. We could at
times see almost down to the bottom, and then again heavy
masses of smoke hid up the view entirely. The smell of sul-
phur in some places was almost unbearable, and the guides

160 CORKESPONDENCE OF

made it a business to cook eggs over the hot cracks aronnd
the crater.

To-morrow we leave for Egypt, ma Brindisi and Corfu,
all of us enjoying good health.

Yours truly,

PAUL A. SCHETTLER.

LETTER XLV.

City of Naples— Dwellings of the Poor— Beggars— Pompeii— The Earthquakes
of Anno Domini 63 and 79— Excavations and Relics— Herculaneum— The
Museum of Naples— The "Secret Cabiuet"— Ascent of Vesuvius— Pliny
the Elder— Thirty-four Volcanic Eruptions— The " Hermitage"— From
Naples to Brindisi— Hardworking Women— Turkish Towns and Villas-
Corfu— Olive and Grape Culture— Religious Service in a Greek Cathe-
dral—No "Grecian Bend"— Take Steamer for Alexandria.

Alexandria, Egypt, February 6th, 1873.
Editor Deseret News:

I will commence where I closed my last letter, at Naples.
The city of Naples contains a population of over half a mil-
lion. It is beautifully situated on the slope of a range of
hills bordering the Mediterranean. Including its suburbs, it
is nearly eighteen miles in circumference. The streets, like
those of most other cities of Europe, are generally narrow,
though some are wide, handsomely paved and bordered vdth
elegant buildings, five, six, and seven stories high. We
noticed in many parts of the city, that the lower stories are
built without windows ; air and light being admitted through
the door in front, which is generally large, always standing

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 161

open except at night, when the occupants retire to rest.
These apartments were swarming with laboring people, many
of whom api)eared in great poverty. We have visited no
city where so much begging is practised as in Naples. In
many places beggars thronged us by multitudes.

We visited Pompeii, distant a few miles from Naples,
and spent several hours in walking through tlie streets and
examining its interesting and mournful ruins. In the year
A. B. 63, the city was partially destroyed by an earthquake.
The inhabitants abandoned the town but returned directly
afterwards, and it had regained nearly all its splendor, when,
at mid-day, on November 23d, A. D. 79, the eruption destined
to destroy it commenced. The wooden roofs of the houses
were either set on fire or broken in by the weight of the
matter deposited on them. It is thought that, inasmuch as
but few skeletons have been found, nearly all of the inhabit-
ants were enabled to escape. They returned soon afterwards
to dig the soil in which the town was buried, and carried
away the valuables left in their houses, and some precious
objects from the public edifices. The villa of Diomede is one
of the largest establishments. The remains of seventeen per-
sons were found there during the excavations. Some of
them were shown us at Pompeii, others we saw in the National
Museum in Naples. Close by the garden gate of this villa
were discovered the skeletons of the proprietor and his at-
tendant—one holding in his hand the keys of the villa ; the
other, a purse which contained one hundred gold and silver
coins.

Quite a large portion of the city is now excavated, ex-
hibiting streets, private buildings, temples, theatres, foun-
tains, wine cellars, public squares, etc., etc., in a wonderful
state of preservation. The whole resembles a large, magnifi-
cent town, the inhabitants of which had suddenly fled, or
gone out on a general excursion.

In returning to Naples we stopped a short time in Hercu-

162 CORRESPOND EXCE OF

laneum, which contains some objects of interest. The ancient
theatre has been ex'^avated, which appears to have consisted
of nineteen tiers of seats, sutTicient to accommodate ten
thousand persons — its orchestra is twenty-six feet below the
surface of the present town, Resina.

The next day we spent a few hours very agreeably in the
celebrated Mus'^um of Naples, whioh contains a vast number
of apartments richly stored with relics of ancient art and
science, and constitutes a general depot of the two ancient
cities, Pompeii and Herculaneum, and other localities of
Naples and Sicily. The "Secret Cabinet," which was for-
merly closed to all visitors, is now open to gentlemen, but is
still closed to ladies and the Catholic clergy. Its contents
exhibit, in a striking manner, the dissipated public taste, and
the licentious and beastly practices of the inhabitants of
those doomed cities, Pompeii and Herculaneum, showing that
they well merited the terrible judgment meted out to them so
suddenly.

We concluded to pay our respects to Mount Vesuvius.
It is nearly four tliousand feet above the level of the sea. In
the eruption of A. D. 79, the elder Pliny lost his life. In
1631 several currents of lava burst forth at once and over-
whelmed a number of cities at the foot of the mountain.
Resina, partly built upon the site of Herculaneum, was con-
sumed by the burning torrent, and it is said that four
thousand persons perished in the catastrophe. Thirty-four
eruptions have taken place since 1750, extending to April,
1872. In this last, thirty persons perished upon the moun-
tain, simply through venturing incautiously. We left our
hotel in a carriage at 9 a m, and reached the '* Heraiitage " at
11.30, situated upon the slope of the mountain, about one
mile below the foot of the cone. The road to this point
has been built at great expense, is very good, but extremely
serpentine, passing over fields and hills of lava, which have
been thrown out from the crater at different periods. We

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 163

could proceed no further by carriage. President Smith, ac-
cording to previous arrangement, was carried in an arm-
chair, upon the shoulders of four Italians, to the foot of the
cone, while others rode on ponies to the same pohit, over
a tortuous path, in places very narrow and rocky. Here we
left our ponies. President Smith, borne upon the shoulders
of his stalwart bearers, took the lead, while we followed,
assisted by our strong walking-sticks. The ascent was diffi-
cult and fatiguing, in places very steep, with ashes and sand
nearly one foot and a half deep. We enjoyed a magnihcent
view of the surrounding country, the long range of the
Apennines in the distance, covered with its snowy mantle, the
ruins of Pompeii, the beautiful city of Naples and its great
bay, dotted with many ships and steamers. We were one
hour and a quarter in making the summit after leaving the
foot of the cone. The crater was partially clear of smoke,
affording a fine opportunity for examining the wonderful
abyss. We tumbled a few rocks over the rim, which were
more than thirt}^ seconds reaching the bottom. Some of the
party tried their strength of nerve by standing upon a craggy
point, which appeared to hang over the burning chasm, and
thrusting sticks into the smoking apertures,which inflamed in
a moment. One of the party also sought to acquire fame in
boiling and eating an egg in the midst of the burning heat
and sulphurous smoke. It was judged that the mouth of
the crater would equal in dimensions a ten acre block. The
mountain, all around; appeared only a thin shell in a heated
state, and for a long distance below the summit, here and
there, volumes of smoke are issuing. We descended the
mountain at nearly a running pace, which occupied only
about fifteen minutes, arrived at our hotel at nearly six
o'clock p. m., and indulged in a remarkably late breakfast
the next morning.

We left Naples by train on the 30th, for Brindisi. A
great portion of the country through which we passed, is

164 CORRESPONDENCE OF

cultivated by the spade ; and we saw here, and also in many
other parts of Italy, the women engaged in this laborious
employment — in one instance we noticed a company of
women repairing a break in the railroad, by carrying gravel
upon their heads in baskets.

At Brindisi we took steamer for Corfu. We had a pleasant
passage — the sea smooth, the weather fine, like Spring, and
the air pure and bracing. We passed close to the coast of
Albania, and had a fine view of Turkish towns and villas,
which appeared here and there on the slopes of the moutains.

The city of Corfu contains about twenty-four thousand
people, the island some fifteen villages with seventy thousand
inhabitants, and forms a portion of the Grecian Government.
The olive and grape are cultivated upon the island very
extensively.

Sunday morning we attended Greek service in a magnifi-
cent cathedral. The psalms, prayers and portions of Scrip-
ture were read in modern Greek, and in a very amusing
operatic style.

In the afternoon, the capacious square in front of our
hotel was enlivened with thousands of promenaders gaily
and richly dressed. The fashionable Grecian ladies, however,
made no display of the "Grecian Bend." A company of
politicians passed us — directly a row ensued, and one was
stabbed to the heart a few steps from where we stood.

We took steamer for Alexandria and arrived here early
this morning. We had fine weather, a' smooth sea the whole
distance, and no sickness, a very remarkable circumstance.
We remain here four days, and then proceed by rail to Cairo,
one hundred and thirty miles distant.

LORENZO SNOW.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 165

LETTER XLVI

Railroad Rido Across Italy— At Foggia— A Filthy Hotel— A Night in a Rail-
way Station— Brindisi— Arrival at Corfu— Mementos of Venetian Rule-
Services in a Greek Church— Holy Water— Kissing Pictures of Saints— A
Political Meeting— A Man Killed— Take Steamer for Egypt— Alexandria
— Pompey's Pillar— Cleopatra's Needles— A Mahommedan Cemetery—
Wa iling for the Dead— A Mussulman Gala Day.

Alexandeia, Egypt, Febniary Stli, 1873.
President Brigham Young:

Our railroad ride across the ankle of Italy was interesting,
passing througli many tunnels and much heavy work, and
giving us a hurried view of the agricultural aspects of this
portion of southern Italy, some of which is very fertile and
well cultivated, though in the hands of an indolent and de-
generate race. At about 9 p.m. the train stopped at Foggia,
and we were told we must remain there all night. This inform-
ation annoyed us, as we were apprehensive it would cause
us to miss connection with the steamer. We went to the
principal hotel in the small town, and found it so filled with
lazzaroni, vermin and filth that we returned to the station
and spent the night on the benches in the waiting room.

At the appointed hour in the morning a telegram ar-
rived announcing the train two hours behind time. We then
telegraphed to the steamboat office at Brindisi, but soon
learned from a Greek trader, who spoke English, that the
boat would not leave until after our arrival. Brindisi has a
beautiful small harbor, completely land-locked. In the days

166 CORRESPONDENCE OF

of the Roman emperors it was a place of much importance,
being the terminus of the great road l^nown as the Appian
Way from Rome. It was a great depot of sup23lies for Roman
military operations to the eastward.

We arrived at Corfu at 2.30 p. m. of Feb. 1, and took
our quarters at the St. George Hoteh These islands were
under British 2Drotection from 1818 until ceded to tlie Greek
Government by the request of the inhabitants a few years ago.
They send nine members to the Grecian Parliament. They
had been for hundreds of years under the Venetian Govern-
ment, as many monuments of Venetian celebrities and the
frequent sight of the two-winged lion still testify. The fall
of Venice left them under the control of the French. Great
Britain, being unwilling they should fall into the hands
of the Austrians under the reconstruction of the European
map in 1815, caused them to be constructed into a republic
under the name of the Republic of the Ionian Isles, under
the protection of Great Britain, then sent a commissioner and
an army to govern the islands until the recent cession, blow-
ing up, in the mean time, the immense fortifications that had
been erected there by the .Venetians, fearing, as they said,
that they might fall into the hands of the Austrians.

The Island of Corfu is about thirty miles long, and in
one place fifteen miles wide ; is mountainous and rocky ;
produces grapes in great abundance and many choice fruits;
the grass, grain and many of the trees were green, while
several varieties of trees were without leaves. Twenty-five
hundred years ago these islands contained " the most learned
and highly civilized nation of antiquity ;" but now their ap-
pearance does not justify the rule of progress, only in the
backward way. The Greek church has been the religion
here for 1,400 years. We went to the principal one on Sun-
day, Feb. 2. The service consisted in reading, in an operatic
way, from the New Testament, to which the large audience
was very attentive, the reading being in modern Greek, cer-

PALESTINE TOUEISTS. 167

tainlj an improvement on the Latin service in the Roman
churches, which nobody understands ; it was, however, all
Greek to us. The church was decorated with crosses, paint-
ings and holy water vases, and lighted with numerous wax
tapers ; hundreds of people were dipping their fingers in
holy water and crossing and sprinkling themselves, and
with great gravity kissing the pictures of the Saints in the
same manner as the Romans kissed the toe of the image of
St. Peter, in St. Peter's Church in Rome.

Sunday p. m. a political meeting occurred, and many
thDusands of people assembled in the Grand Square, the next
Saturday, being the day of election for members of the Greek
Parliament, they were selecting candidates. We could not
understand the nature of the- questions, but they became so
exciting that one man saw proper to kill another, and during
the evening the government kept soldiers on patrol through
the city*

About one a. m. of the 3d we went on board the Austrian
Lloyd's steamer Saturno, and found our state rooms had
been secured by an agent of Mr. Cook. We had a very
pleasant steam over a smooth sea, and arrived in this port at
7.30 a. m. of the 6th. There were a great number of pas-
sengers, including clergymen, doctors, lawyers, and others
from England and America, mostly 67Z route for Upper Egypt.
They were much surprised to find live specimens from
" Mormondom ;" and, as they would keep talking to us, we
preached to them nearly the whole voyage. They were a class
of people that would not go to our meetings, but by this
means heard something of the gospel.

The Turks are the rulers here. The Egyptians are de-
scendants of the Arabs, who conquered the country in the
7th century, and the numerous crosses with other nations
cause the streets to display a hue mixture of Europeans,
Nubians, Abyssinians, Bedouins, Jews, Copts, and degene-
rate Greeks, and the greatest variety of costumes of any place

168 CORRESPONDENCE OF

I ever visited. In the days of the Roman emperors this place
is said to have been fifteen miles in circnit, and to have con-
tained 600,000 inhabitants, and some of the finest temples
and palaces in existence. But little remains to mark even
the site of this ancient city. Pompey's Pillar is a fine cohimn,
98 feet 9 inches high. Cleopatra's Needles, one of which, 77
feet high, is standing, and the other fallen and covered with
debris, point out the spot where the Temple of C?esar stood.

We visited the Mahommedan cemetery ; the monuments
are plain and without statues. Thousands of Mussulmen
were to-day engaged in wailing over their dead; many had
pitched tents for that purpose to keep off the sun, and others
were in the open air. Most of the women wear vails, which
hide the face except the eyes. We also visited the Christian
burying grounds, which contain many fine monuments, most-
ly to Europeans, among which we saw two American graves.
The fig trees are at present leafless ; the bananas are covered
with foliage and have fruit two-thirds grown. The date is a
beautiful tree and in full foliage. Many fruit and flowering
shrubs are in bloom.

We expect to leave on Monday morning, 10th, for Cairo.
We have met Mr. Alexander Howard, the principal drago-
man for Mr. Cook's trains in Palestine, and according to
programme shall arrive in Jaffa on the 23rd. Alexandria is
situated so near the sea that it has rains at certain seasons,
and is [now well stocked with mosquitoes. Irrigation is
necessary and is managed much as we do it in Utah. They
are now irrigating portions of their gardens.

Our party are all well and in good spirits. The water
was so smooth that none of them was sick while on the Adri-
atic and Mediterranean seas. To-day is a Mussulman gala
day, and while some are wailing for thedead, others are firing
cannons, and thousands in the market places are engaged in
sports and pastimes.

Bro. Schettler has had a ride on a donkey, and has

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 169

bought Turkish, caps for several of ns, which give us quite
a Turkish appearance.

I learn tliat the firing and celebration to-day are in com-
memoration of the day that Mahomet ascended the mountain
from Mecca, and that the pilgrims to Mecca have ascended
the mountain to-day, and all the faithful rejoice.

GEOKGE A. SMITH.

LETTER XLVII

Leave Naples— Arrival at Foggia— On Board the " Trebisonda "—Cross the
Adriatic— Corfu— Visit a Greek Church— Embark on the "Saturno"—
Correcting False Impressions-^The Ionian Islands— Reach Alexandria —
Crowds of Arabs, Turks, Greeks, Copts, Armenians, Syrians, &c. — ISIa-
hommedan Passover — Summer Gardens and Palace of the Viceroy-
Cleopatra's Needles. •

Hotel de L'Eukope, Alexandria, Egypt,

February 9th, 1873,

Editors Salt Lake Herald:

According to our programme, we left Naples on the 20th
of January, at 4 p. m., for Brindisi, but on our arrival at
Foggia, at 10.40 p.m., we were told that no train was going to
Brindisi before 6.25 the next morning. We took a couple of
hacks to drive to the finest hotel of the place, but on arriving
there we found it such a filthy place that we could not make
up our minds to stay there over night, and preferred to pass
the night at the waiting room of the station. The train, next
morning, was one hour and a half behind time, and we feared

170 COREESPONDENCE OF

we miglit be too late for the steamer. We telegraphed to the
office of the Austrian Lloyd Steamship Company, and found
out soon after that the steamer was not leaving Brindisi be-
fore midnight. We reached there at 3.36 p. m., and went
immediately on board the Trebisoiida, 400 horse power, and
2,303 tons capacity. She is a line boat, almost new, and we
had good accommodations and a pleasant passage. When
we awoke in the morning, we had crossed the Adriatic, and
were sailing along the bare mountainous coast of Turkey.
At 2 p. m, we reached the harbor of Corfu, were taken ashore
in boats, and put up at ths St. George Hotel, which was so
crowded that three of us had to sleep in one room. Several
of the party took a carriage and drove about seven miles over
the island, which contains 74,000 inhabitants. Sunday morn-
ing we visited a Greek church and witnessed the ceremonies,
which in some respects much resembled those of the Catholic
Church. Parts of the Evangelists and some prayers were
read by the priests in modern Greek, so that the people could
understand, which is not the case in the Catholic churches,
where the ceremonies are perfooned in Latin. About mid-
night we went aboard the steamer Saturno, Captain Leva,
400 horse power, and 3,308 tons capacity, which touched here
on her way from Trieste to Alexandria. We had good berths
reserved for us on the deck, and found a large party of Mr.
Cook's on board, mostly English and some Americans.
Among the English were several clergymen and doctors, with
whom we had a good deal of conversation during tho passage,
and corrected them in many foolish ideas which they had
picked up about us in sensational newspaper reports. We
had a beautiful passage, the sea being remarkably smooth,
and weather fine and warm all the time. The table was well
supplied, and fruit of this country was abundant. We
passed the Ionian islands of Santa Maura, Zante and Argostoli
the first day, and the following morning the island of Candia.
On awakening on ^Thursday morning, the 6th, we were

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 171

in sight of the Egyptian coast, and dropped anchor at 7 a. m.
in the harbor of Alexandria.

Crowds of Arabs soon came aboard our steamer to get
hold of our luggage and take us ashore, but Mr. Alexander
Howard, Mr. Cook's chief dragoman, soon made liis appear-
ance and brought us safely ashore with our baggage, which
had to undergo a very superficial examination at the custom
house, and we had to leave our passports with one of the
officials, with instructions from him to call for them at the
American Consulate, which we did yesterday and got them
vised. Alexandria has at present about 220,000 inhabitants,
composed of people of almost every nation, and in seeing the
streets filled with Turks, Greeks, Arabs, Syrians, Copts, Ar-
menians, the genuine Negro from Nubia, Bedouins, etc., in
their very different and sometimes romantic costumes, we very
soon realized that we had reached another continent. Our
hotel is situated on the Grand Square, and from our windows
we can look down upon this mixed crowd, and take our
notes. We visited the Mahommedan burial place, where the
people gathered in large crowds, yesterday and to-day, to
weep and wail over the graves of their dead friends, as this
is the passover feast of the Mahommedans, called " Biram."
Close by, on an eminence, which was probably the highest
ground of the ancient city, is the ""most striking monumental
relic of Alexandria, called Pompey's Pillar, of beautiful red
granite, ninety-eight feet and nine inches in height. Thence
we drove to the summer palace and gardens of the Viceroy
of Egypt, and to the public gardens, through groves of date
palms, and saw many wild and tame fig trees, bananas and
other tropical plants and flowers. On our wa}^ home we
looked at Cleopatra's Needles, two large obelisks, one erect
and one fallen, which were set up in front of the Temple of
Caesar, which^the Alexandrians had erected in honor of the
Emperor. Another pccount assigns the erection of this
temple to Cleopatra, to commemorate the birth of her son by

172 CORRESPONDENCE OF

Julius CcGsar. The standing one is seventy-one feet high,
and the fallen one sixty-six feet. To-morrow we leave for
Cairo, where we intend to stay about one week, thence we go
to Suez, Ismaila, and Port Said, where we take steamer on
the 22nd inst. for .Jaffa.

Yours truly,

PAUL A. SCHETTLEE.

LETTER XLVIII.

Rome — Excavations by Xapoleon III — Naples — Pomp and Beggary— Thou-
sands of Homeless People — Ascending Vesuvius — Brindisi — Corfu —
Women " Beasts of Burden "—Embark on the " Saturno " — " Sunrise on
the Mediterranean " — Alexandria.

Alexandria, Egypt, February 9th, 1873.

Editor Woman's Exponent:

I wrote you last in Rome. We found very much in that
ancient capital of the world strikingly interesting. The un-
remitting work of time is nowhere more apparent than in the
ruins of that once magnilicent city. The excavations com-
menced at the expense of Napoleon Third, and which are
continued by the present government of Italy, have brought
to light most astonishing specimens of former grandeur and
architectural skill. Although much has been unburied, much
more remains, not only many feet beneath the surface of the
earth, but also below spacious palaces and temples of com-
paratively modern structure, which have been erected upon
the ground formed by accumulations tlirongh the lapse of

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 173

ages, that constituted a sepulchral arch over the Rome of the
Caesars. While there we were informed of a design to
remove these modern buildings in favor of perfecting the
work of excavation, and since leaving have read a published
article announcing that the work of demolishing had com-
menced.

But I must leave Rome for the present and hasten on to
Naples, where we arrived in the evening of the 25th of Janu-
ary. That is a city of pomp and beggary ; in fact, there,
begging appeared to be more a necessity than in Rome, where
children well clad, fat and apparently well fed, seemed to beg
for mere amusement, no doubt being trained to the business.
But in Naples we saw poverty strikingly apparent, and beg-
gars clust':ired in droves. Thousands of men, women and
children were on the side-walks and in the streets, lounging
about as though they had no abiding place ; most of the men
smoking pipes and cigars, some of the women knitting,
others spinning flax in the most simple manner, with a distaff,
from wliich ^they drew the thread, and a bobbin or spool
which they twirled to give a twist to the thread and then
wound upon it.

Many'of these people have no resort for the night only
as tbey huddle into the porches of the churches, on the steps,
or in niches in the corners of the streets. Returning rather
late from Pompeii one evening, we saw groups of these
houseless people on steps leading into churches. They are
accustomed to this manner of existence, it can hardly be
called living. Warm climates, in which people easily exist,
foster indolence ; and it is doubtful whether any inducements
could prompt these people to industry.

President Smith and most of his party ascended to the
crater of Vesuvius ; my ambition was satisfied with excel-
lent views of this natural wonder at a lower point. Continu-
ally throwing out volumes of smoke, and frequently ashes
and stones, it is a marvel that people residing near, and at

174 CORRESPONDENCE OF

the base of, this fiery mountain, can feel the serenity they
manifest.

From Naples we went by rail to Brindisi, from there by
steamer to Corfu, one of the Grecian isles, thirty miles in
length, and from one to fifteen in breadth. It seems like a
cluster of high hills and low dells, mostly covered with
olives and grape-vines, with here and there a cypress. Varie-
ties of vegetables are growing in some parts, also flax, which
we saw nearly in bloom. Tlie Grecian women, living in the
country, are, many of them at least, *' beasts of burden." I
never saw such gigantic bundles carried by human beings as
these poor women carry on their heads. In the city of Corfu,
as in most of the cities we have visited, America and England
are represented in the circles of fashion. The grand prom-
enr.de and public gardens were very gay, especially in the
afternoon of the Sunday we spent there.

At 12 (midnight) of the 2nd of February we embarked
on the Satur7iOy an Austrian steamer, and arrived in Alexan-
dria on the morning of the 6th. We had a delightful voy-
age, no one of our party was se9,-sick ; the sea was calm,
although the day before and the day after our voyage were
very boisterous.

SUNRISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN.

We mounted "Satiirno's" deck to see
A grand, magnificent scene —

The rising Sun in its majesty,
Diffusing its golden sheen.

A charming precursor first appear'd

In volumes of golden rays,
Increasing their splendor till all around

The horizon seemed to blaze.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 175

Anon, the disk of the "king of clay,"

O'er the wat'iy main arose ;
Now upward and onward he makes his way,

Till the canopy gaily glows.

The morning is fine, the air serene,

And the sky above is clear,
Except where a beautiful cloud

Like a floating nymph appears.

The sparkliug waves of the sea below.

The blazonry over head.
The horizon wrapp'd in a burning glow,

A thrilling enchantment sj^read.

No place that we have visited makes one feel so thorough-
ly from home as Alexandria ; and in no place have we had
more comfortable quarters and better fare than here. Yet
the medley of nations, religions, costumes, colors, dialects,
etc., etc., and the dilapidated appearance of the city, consti-
tute a scenery at once interesting, ludicrous and extremely
amusing. But my sheet is full, and I will leave Alexandria,
with this introduction, for a future opportunity. We go to
Cairo to-morrow.

ELIZA R. SNOW.

176 COERESPONDENCE OF

LETTER XLIX

In Cairo — Description of Alexandria — People of Various Nationalities —
Riding on Asses — Arab Runnei's — Turkish Dresses — Veiled Ladies —
Cleanliness of the Mussulmen — Washing and Prayer — The Mahommedan
Hegira — Mourning for the Dead — A Famous Greek Church — Joseph's
Well — The Pyramids — The Sphinx — Gardens and Palace of Gizeh — Mar-
riage Festivities.

Caieo, Egypt, February 14tli, 1873.
Editor Woman's Exponent:

We are now in the flourisliing city of Cairo, but I will
take you back to Alexandria, to wliich I introduced you in
my last.

Although the buildings generally, in that once celebrated,
antiquated city, are specimens of age and decay, it contains
some respectable appearing ones, recently built and owned
by foreigners. Most of the streets are unpaved, narrow and
filthy. Our hotel in Alexandria occupied a pleasant posi-
tion ; our rooms, on the third floor, fronting a public square,
eight or ten rods in width, affording us full views of two
streets and four sidewalks, which were, most of tlie time,
thronged with people and animals. From our balcony and
windows, which opened at full length, we had an excellent
opportunity for studying national peculiarities. The sight
was at once intensely amusing and interesting. It would be
impossible to give more than a faint idea of the strange vari-
eties to be seen at a glance : men, women and children of
every shade of complexion, from the fairest blonde to the
most glossy jet, with every variety of feature, and in every

PALESTINE TOUEISTS. 177

imaginable costume. In five minutes 1 counted twenty dif-
ferent styles of covering on the lieads of that number of male
bipeds, saying nothing of those of the feminines. Mixed
up with pedestrians may be seen men, women and children
on donkeys, men on horses and mules, camels laden with
enormous masses of straw, grass, lumber, rock, and frequent-
ly with a man on the top of the load ; people of all classes, in
carriages and buggies, rudely constructed vehicles containing
twenty persons— men, women and children ; and, to complete
the medley, dogs and monkeys.

The most comically amusing practice, and one of con-
stant exhibition, is a person, either Turk or Christian, on a
donkey, with a man or boy in gown or turban, running in
the rear, and with a stick punching or striking the animal to
quicken its speed. Our highly respected cashier and inter-
preter, Brother P. A. Schettler, adopted this fashionable
style, but much to the regret of Miss Little and myself, he
disappointed us of the gratification we anticipated in witness-
ing the interesting and undignified exhibition, by performing
it clandestinely. These Arab runners outstrip donkeys, and
equal horses at pretty good speed. It is quite customary for
people of consequence to have one of these runners in front
of their carriage-horses, clearing the street before them.
President Smith and party rode out this forenoon in two
carriages, with a runner in white gown and turban, in advance
of each.. They felt themselves to be men of authority — stick
in hand, ordering people, donkeys, etc., aside to clear a pas-
sage.

On the streets, Americans, English, French, Germans
Italians, Greeks, Turks, Abyssinian Jews, etc., etc., mix, and
it is impossible to discover from appearance who feel most at
home. Several of an English party who crossed the Medi-
terranean with us, have already adopted the neat little Turk-
ish cap, which, with turban and gown, is the predominant
style in Egypt. In Alexandria, most of the hotel servants

178 CORRESPONDENCE OF

appeared in no other. I had tried to persuade some of the
gentlemen of our party thj^t this costume might become them,
but, up to date, they have only donned the cap, the gown is
only yet in prospect.

The custom of veiling the face, which is much practised
here by Egyptian women, appears to be very inconvenient.
I have already seen thousands with only the eyes, and some-
times the forehead exposed ; some with white veils and dressed
in white ; others with black and dressed in black, and also
in various colors; some very richly clad. Most of the veils
are short, made of thick lace, and fastened across the face
just below the .eyes. The outside garb or covering, nearly
square in form, is laid over the head, fastened under the
chin, falling loosely over the shoulders, reaches to the instep,
and frequently parting in front, exposes to advantage a beau-
tiful, rich underdress. Walking in the public garden, seated
in an arbor, on the sidewalk, riding on a donkey or in a car-
riage, every Turkish or Egyptian woman you see, looks as
though she had a large shawl over her head. Consideiing the
outside appearance of the den-like houses of the Arab Ma-
hommedans, it is very surprising to see how neat they look.
Many, both men and women, dress in white, and really
white ; their religion enjoins cleanliness. They have foun-
tains in front of their mosques, where the people wash be-
fore prayer. We frequently see them washing themselves
beside the street, probably preparatory to praying, for where-
ever a true Mahometan is, wlien the hour of prayer arrives,
he bows to service. We have seen several, where we were
passing, bowing their heads to the ground while their lips
moved as in silent devotion.

But to Alexandria. The first morning after our arrival,
the early and frequent discharge of cannon, reminded us of
our "Fourth" and "Twenty-fourth." On enquiring the
cause, we were informed that the pilgrims were then ascend-
ing the mountain in commemoration of the Hegira, or flight

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 179

of Maliomet to Mecca. It was also tlie time for the "Wail-
ing for the dead " in the Mahommedan cemetery. Our curi-
osity prompted us to walk a tiresome distance through dust,
iilth and crowded streets, to the place designated, where we
found thousands of people of all ages, and, with very few
exceptions, all in Mahommedan costumes.

The graces are covered with clay moulded into a com-
pact oval form, raised from one to two feet above the surface,
and many of them surrounded with one, two and three steps.
Beside many of tlie graves were those, apparently, who were
relatives of those interred, weeping, mourning or praying,
while another class, with no mourning sympathies whatever,
was exhibiting the greatest mirth — playing on rude instru-
ments, daacing-monkeys, buying, selling, eating, drinking,
smoking and having a gala time. Not comprehending their
words and doings, the entire scene seemed to us a master-
piece of confusion. The throng was so dense it was difficult
to wend our way into the midst sufficiently to gratify our
curiosity, which we did as soon as possible, lest we might be
thought intrusive ; and in coming out, we were beset with
importunities to purchase all kinds of trinkets, bread, cakes,
figs, oranges, dates, and many other things altogether anony-
mous to us; but it being Sunday, we were out without any
" backsheesh " in our pockets, and of course were not pre-
pared to trade.

In Cairo we have visited a Turkish mosque, a Jewish
synagogue, a Greek church, in which we were shown '' where
Joseph, Mary and the Saviour resided when they fled from the
wrath of Herod;" a church of the Copts, " Joseph's Well,"
which is two hundred and fifty feet deep, the Pyramids and
"Sphinx," the Museum of Antiquities, the gardens and pal-
ace of Gizeh, which belong to the Khedive, of whom we had
a good view as he passed us in his carriage while promen-
ading on his premises. He has four wives and quite a num-
ber of children, four of whom were married durins: the past

180 CORRESPONDENCE OF

month, wliich has been a continued holiday festival. Many-
thousands of lamps have gorgeously illuminated, it is judged,
more than fifty acres in extent— hung in arches, over gate-
ways, in arbors, and most tastefully arranged in every direc-
tion. Yesterday the festival closed and many were engaged
in removing the lamps and other costly ornaments. During
the festivities, firing of cannon was frequent,^and the exhibi-
tions of fireworks in the centre of the illuminations were ex-
ceedingly grand. Three of the recently wedded are sons;
the daughter's nuptials were since our arrival. It is said
that her intended had seen her photograph previous to mar-
riage, but not her face. If that is so, it is to be hoped that
he has met with no unfavorable disappointment. She has
the reputation of being very pretty and amiable.
On the 17th we leave Cairo for Suez.

ELIZA E. SNOW.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 181

LETTER L

Leave Alexandria— Cross the Nile— Irrigation — Method of Cultivation— Arab
Mounds — Primitive Mode of Dressing — A Famous Mosque — Josepli's
"Well— Cairo— Church where Joseph, Mary and Jesus Tarried— The Oldest
Mosque Known— Visit to the Khedive's Gardens— A Drive to the Pyra-
mids—Backsheesh— The Sphinx — Religious Services by the Dervishes —
Marriage of the Khedive's Children — City of Heliopolis— Temple of On—
Fountain of the Sun — A Famous Sycamore Tree.

Hotel Shepheaed, Cairo, Egypt,

February 16tli, 1873.

Editors Salt Lake Herald:

We left Alexandria at 9.40 a. m. on the 10th instant, by
rail, for this city, and crossed the Rosetta branch of the Nile
near the station Kafr-ez-Zyat, over a fine iron bridge of twelve
spans, which had cost £400,000, and also the Damietta branch
of the Nile, near the station Birket-es-Sab. Part of the coun-
try we passed through was highly cultivated, and a most
perfect system of irrigation is used, without which the inhab-
itants can raise nothing. They divide the fields and gardens
by dams, in small squares of from twelve to fifteen or twenty
feet, and flood them one after another, and the sand being
impregnated with the rich alluvial deposits, gets exceedingly
productive. We also passed many Arab mounds, like mud
villages, and many of the inhabitants approached pretty
near in their clothing to the fashion prevalent in the Garden
of Eden. We reached our hotel at 4 p. m. , and were com-
fortably quartered, though we had to take double-bedded
rooms, as the house was full. The party has visited the

182 CORRESPONDENCE OF

Mosque Mahomed Ali, which is one of the princix^al ones,
built of white oriental alabaster on an eminence called the
" Citadel, " from which a very line view of the city, with its
400 mosques, minarets, churches and palaces, and the pyra-
mids, can be obtained. On the east side of the Citadel Hill
is Joseph's Well, 290 feet deep, and immediately below the
Citadel the fine mosques of Sultan Hassan.

On the 12th we drove to the old city of Cairo, about
three miles out, and entered through one of the arches of ttie
old aqueduct. We went into a very old Coptic church,
where, it is said, Joseph and Mary tarried with the child
Jesus, then to an old Jewish church and a Greek church of
very early date, dedicated to the patron St. G-eorge ; but the
first monument of interest is the Mosque of Amer, to the east
of the village, which is said to be the oldest mosque known.
In the afternoon we called upon the vice consul of the
United States, who promised us tickets of admission to two
of the finest gardens of tlie Khedive, which we have since
visited, and through the politeness of one of the French
guards in charge of one of the summer palaces in these gar-
dens, we were conducted through the principal rooms, which
were fitted up in a most magnificent Oriental style. Th«
name of this palace and garden is Ghezireh, and that of the
other Choubra.

On Thursday we drove to the Pyramids of Gizeh, and
arrived there in about two hours. There are three large ones,
called the Great Pyramid, or Pyramid of Cheops, the Che-
phren Pyramid, and the Mycerinus Pyramid. The great one
is 756 feet long, 480 feet high, and has an area of 571,536
square feet. The weather being warm and the ascent fatigu-
ing, only Mr. Thomas W. Jennings and myself made up our
minds to climb to the top platform, with a number of the
other travellers who were continually arriving. With the
assistance of four strong Arabs, two of whom took me by the
hands, and two of them pushing and lifting me from behind,

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 183

where the steps were foui* feet high, and after resting several
times, I rea'^hed the top in seventeen minutes, when my
Arabs gave me three cheers and a tiger in regular Yankee
style, and tolerably good Arab English, asking me of course
for the unavoidable "backsheesh," or fee, which you hear
from early morning till late in the evening sounded in your
ears for real or imaginary services rendered. I stopped about
fifteen minutes and enjoyed a beautiful view over the Nile
valley, the city of Cairo, the sandy desert of Saharah, with
Memphis and other pyramids in the distance. This pyramid
is over 4,000 years old, and it took 366,000 men about twenty
years to build it. My Arabs took me safely down again, and
accompanied me with candles to the inside to see the sarcoph-
agus of the builder. The narrow passage was floored with
finely polished marble, in some places only three feet high,
and as the way was first downwards, and then rising at an
angle of twenty-six degrees, and the air rather close, it was
almost more difficult to see the inside than to climb to the
outside platform. Near to this great pyramid is the world-
wide celebrated Sphinx, of fine red polished granite, of
which the head and neck are only visible, the rest being
buried in sand. The head measures from the forehead down
to the chin thirty feet. It is the work of Chephren, the
builder of the second pyramid, and was situated to the
south of the Temple of Isis, and north of the Temple of
Osiris.

The following day we visited a mosque of the Dervishes,
and saw them perform their religious exercises, which con-
sisted in their forming a semi-circle, in the centre of which
stood an old Dervish, who directed the services. The per-
sons in the circle had their long dark hair hanging down
over their shoulders, and to a kind of drum music stooped
down forward, touching the ground with their hands, and
then throwing tlieir heads with flowing hair backward as far
as they could, groaning and howling fearfully and working

184 CORRESPONDENCE OF

SO fast that the perspiration was running down their faces,
and once in a while one fell down exhausted, when they put
something in his mouth and he was foaming like a madman.
Some others were whirling around inside the circle, and it
was altogether the most singular and horrible-looking relig-
ious exercise to witness.

The Khedive has married off several of his children
lately, and great festivities have been going on here for the
last thirty days at his ex]3ense, as balls, suppers for foreign-
ers, who only required a card from their consuls, fireworks,
illuminations, etc. We were in time to see some of the latter,
which were very fine indeed, and far surpassed anything
Europeans had seen before in their own great cities. The
illuminations of the palace, the gardens, and surrounding
grounds, covered about fifty acres of ground.

Most of the party being occupied with letter-writing for
this mail, yesterday President George A. Smith and myself
took a drive to the ruins of the old city of Heliopolis . We
passed the ruins of the Mosque and Tomb of Melek Adel,
and drove through vineyards, olive groves, and highly culti-
vated gardens and fields to the oldest obelisk in Egypt, which,
with another, stood in front of the great Temple of On, in
which Joseph's father-in-law officiated as a priest, and where
Moses studied. (See Genesis xli, 45). Close by in the vil-
lage Matareeah is the Fountain of the Sun, which, as tradition
says, was salt until the holy family arrived there, and "Our
Lady bathed in it, when it turned soft and sweet." A few
steps from it is an old sycamore tree, under which the holy
family is said to have camped. This city contains 400,000 in-
habitants, and the Khedive is making wonderful improve-
ments in the new part of it. As in Alexandria, a great many
donkeys are used to get about, and numbers of camels for
riding and for carrying burdens are seen in the streets.

PAUL A. SCHETTLEK.

PALESTINE TOUEISTS. 185

LETTER LI.

Cairo— Mosque of Mahomet Ali— Joseph's Well— The Khedive's Festivities-
Visit a Coptic Chiu-ch— A Sheik Hanged— Hieropolis and City of On—
The Place where Moses was Educated— Virgin Mary's Sycamore Tree—
A Salt Well Miraculously Sweetened— Plain of Heliopolis— Defeat of the
Mamelukes— Egyptian Hotel Accommodation— Land of Goshen— Suez—
Where the Israelites Crossed the Red Sea— An Arab Village.

ISMALIA, Egypt, February 19th, 1873.
Peesident Beigham Young:

I wrote to you from Alexandria, from which place we
went to Cairo, the capital of Egypt, understood to be the
largest city in Africa, said to contain more than 400,000 in-
habitants. It presents the strange mixture of a European,
African and Asiatic town all under one. The Frank quarter
contains many fine European buildings, and some newly
made and very pleasant public gardens, but the whole city is
unpaved. A few streets that are newly made are wide and
convenient and have flagged sidewalks ; all the others, em-
bracing an area of some three miles by two, are very narrow,
many of them too much so for one loaded camel to pass
another. Most of the houses are built of concrete, and many
of them are out of repair. The Mosque of Mahomet Ali,
commenced by that prince, and finished after his death, is the
finest public building that we saw in Cairo. A great portion
is very neatly finished inside with Oriental alabaster, and is
better suited to the purposes designed than any Catholic
church I have visited. It is erected in the old citadel, ren-
dered famous by the destruction* of the Mamelukes by Ma-

186 COKRESPONDENCE OF

hornet Ali, and on the site of the old Palace of Saladhi. The
view of Cairo from the south side of the mosque is the finest
I saw. Near this building is a well they call Joseph's, and
many travellers Lave rejoiced in seeing what they believed
was the well of the son of the old patriarch Jacob ; it would
seem, however, that Saladin, the Fatimite Calif, so renowned
in the history of the Crusades, located the citadel here, not
because it was the most commanding point in the then new
city of Cairo, but because he learned by experiment that
fresh meat would keep much longer here than in any other
place in the city. In clearing oif the spot of ground for the
foundation an old well was discovered, which had been dug
and walled by the ancients. Saladin ordered the sand to be
cleared out with which it had been filled, and his other name
being Yoosef, the well has taken that name. Its depth is 290
feet, and is descended by a gently sloping staircase. The
water is raised by mule power, and is only fit for irrigating
and for animals to drink.

We called on the Consul General, Mr. Beardsley, who
treated us very courteously. His health is delicate. He com-
plained of having had to attend the Khedive's festivities twice
a week for four weeks, given on account of the marriages of
three of his sons and one daughter ; his delicate health and
apparent fatigue caused us to make our call brief.

The United States Consul for Cairo treated us courteously ;
he is a native Egyptian ; he procured us passes into two of the
gardens of the Khedive, and told us if we had arrived one week
sooner he could have procured us admission to the rooms of
the harem, but the close of the festivities made it impossible.

We visited a Coptic church, and employed one of its
members, Solomon Monsoor, for our dragoman while in Cairo.
The Copts are bigoted and ignorant. The Greek Church also
has its organizations here, one of which we visited, but Chris-
tianity here is of a low type, though the present government
protects all religions in a * manner entirely disliked by the

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 187

more zealous Mahommedans. Mr. Beardsley told us that tlie
Khedive had recently hung a Dervish sheik for interfering
improperly with his neighbors' religious rights. He thinks
that while the present Khedive lives any one is free to follow
his religious convictions, but remarked that he has much
prejudice and bigotry to combat.

We visited several palaces and their surrounding grounds
belonging to the Khedive, constructed and laid out with tlie
spirit of modern improvement, and which are highly creditable.
We paid a visit to the obelisk at Heliopolis, which is all that
remains of the renowned city of On. The obelisk is sup-
posed to be one third of its length in the ground ; there are
sixty -two feet above ground, and it is surrounded by a lux-
uriant sugarcane held.' The surrounding ground is a vast
accumulation of the ruins of the old city , and is exceedingly
fertile, a considerable portion liaving been recently brought
under cultivation by the Khedive, who brought to it the
waters of the Nile. The obelisk is six feet square, tapering
to the summit, and is covered with hieroglyphics.

Joseph's wife Asenath was the daughter of Potiphar,
priest of On, our grandmother, of course. Moses was edu-
cated here, as tljis was the seat of the great college where the
Egyptian notables received their schooling. Its name. On, is
said to have been determined from the interpretation of an
inscription on the obelisk.

Near this place we visited a sycamore tree which bears
the name of the Virgin Mary ; it is said that Joseph and
Mary camped by this tree when on their flight to Egypt with
the young child Jesus in the days of Herod. Near this tree
is a well which was salt at that time, but Mary washed in it,
and it made it sweet. A donkey was at work raising the
water by a rude wheel to which were attached several earth-
en jars. We drank, and found the water pure, but warm,
the taste much resembling that of the big spring at St. George
in Utah. The tree is very old, and has suffered severely by

188 CORRESPONDENCE OF

devout people carrying off pieces of it and carving their
names on it, to prevent which the owner has surrounded it
with a substantial picket fence, and that has been disiigured,
although neatly painted, with awkwardly cut Roman initials.

The large plain of Heliopolis has recently been brought
into cultivation, by bringing the Nile waters over it, and is
very productive. It is memorable in Egyptian history as the
battle field upon which Selim the Second, Sultan of Turkey,
defeated the Mameluke Caliph in 1517, reducing Egypt to a
Turkish province for 356 years, except the three years it was
occupied by the French. The Sultan put the Caliph to death,
but retained the Mameluke aristocracy, on condition that they
paid tribute, renounced their religion and adopted his, and
inserted liis name in their prayers, which they continued to
do until they were destroyed by Mahomet Ali, the grand-
father of the present Khedive, in 1811.

Our hotel accommodations at Shepheard's. were much
better than I had expected to find in Egpyt, though so
crowded that two had to occupy a room. The floors were
stone, but carpeted. They furnished meat, potatoes and wines ;
the hotel fare was sixteen shillings a day. When driving
out we took with us a dragomaq to interpret and keep from
us a numerous lot of beggars and bummers, clamorous for
backsheesh, and only equalled, as far as we had ^traveled,
by the beggars in Naples.

We left Cairo on the 17th by rail for the Red Sea. Sev-
eral hours of our journey lay throu^'h one of the finest culti-
vated regions I have seen, all irrigated by water from the Nile.
We lunched at Zagazig, supposed to be in what was the Land
of Goshen. Zagazig is near some extensive ruins of an ancient
city, Bubastis, said to have been the capital of Egypt in the
days of Shishak, and to have contained a magnificent Temple
of Mercury ; the ruins indicate the site of an extensive city.
A fresh water canal has been constructed from the Nile on or
near the line of an ancient canal, which existed in the days

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 189

of the Pharaohs, to Ismalia, whence it is forced in a pipe 50
miles^to Port Said on the Mediterranean, and the canal con-
tinues in an opposite direction to Suez on the Red Sea, the
railroad lines following near this canal.

A portion of the way from Zagazig a strip is cultivated
on one side, while the other is naked sand, and this line leads
through what was, probably, once a clioice portion of Egypt,
but now it is so desolate that our Utah deserts are but semi-
deserts compared with it.

Suez was considerable of a native town, though the fresh
water had to be brought from a distance on pack animals.
The story so widely circulated, that an artesian well had
been sunk here, is a canard. A railroad by a more direct
route was constructed between Cairo and Suez, but having to
carry water in cars, it was discontinued when the fresh water
canal was completed, notwithstanding the present line is one-
third or more longer. For some time Suez and the canal
laborers were furnished with water by the short road. The
presumption is that the children of Israel crossed the arm of
the Red Sea, named the Gulf of Suez, near this place. A
band? of English clergymen were about starting on camels
this morning to visit] Sinai, said to be a 60 hours' journey.
The gardens at Suez and Ismalia show that the most desert
sand will produce vegetation wherever water can be applied.
There is but little to encourage the growth of these towns, as
the shipping trade goes'directly through. No great expense
is required to keep the Suez canal in order, as we are told the
current keejDS it clear of sediment. Among the most un-
thrifty and cheerless of all human habitations is an Arab
village, located above irrigation, treeless, a mere collection of
miserable mud and concrete huts.

Our party are all in our usual health, and the prospect
is that we shall not think any the less of our mountain home
and friends after our return.

GEORGE A. SMITH.

190 COKKESPONDENCE OF

LETTER LII.

Tour of Egypt— Love of Children among the Egyptians— Divorce and Mari-
tal Infidelity Rare— Turkish Mosques— The Turkish Sabbath— The Copts
—Lack of Education— Mahommedan Schools — Sobriety and Honesty
among Mahommedans — Male and Female Attire — Religious Sects —
Modes of Worship— The Dervishes— Visit to a Dervish Place of Worship
—Hotel Accommodations in Alexandria— Agriculture and Irrigation—
A Steam Plow in Egypt— Suez and the Red Sea— Leave for Jaffa.

Port Said, Egypt, February 22nd, 1873.
Editor Deseret News:

We have now completed our tour in Egypt, wMcli in
many respects has proved the most agreeable and interesting
of any country we have visited in regard to its physical ap-
pearance, and the character, religion, customs and manners of
its inhabitants. It occupies the nortli-eastern part of Africa
and embraces nearly six millions of people— Egyptians,
Turks, Arabs, Greeks, Armenians, Jews, Syrians and Mam-
elukes. The great majority are husbandmen, and their
social condition of a low grade, generally ignorant and uned-
ucated and fond of frivolous amusements. The climate be-
ing warm, and their style of living cheap and simple, their
habitations consisting chiefly of low mud huts, very little
labor or expense is required for the maintenance of families.
I noticed, in passing through many of their mud villages, that
they appeared to be swarming with children. We were told,
and from personal observation believed it to be true, that in
Egypt the practice of raising offspring is the general rule and
is fashionable and popular, and that the estimation in which the

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 191

wife is held by her husband, and even by her acquaintances,
depends in a great measure upon her fruitfulness and the
preservation of her children. By men and women, whether
rich or poor, barrenness is considered a curse and a reproach,
and it is regarded, also, as disgraceful in a man to divorce,
without some substantial reason, a wife who has borne him a
child, especially while her child is living. If a woman de-
sires a husband's love, or the respect of others, her giving
birth to a child is a source of great joy to her and him, mak-
ing her own interest a sufficient motive for maternal tender-
ness. Children here appear to have great respect for their
parents. We are informed that an undutiful child is scarcely
known among the Egyptians or Arabs, and whenever such
an instance does occur, being considered one of the greatest
crimes, its punishment is very severe. It is said that cases
are very rare in Egypt of wives being unfaithful to their hus-
bands.

In visiting the Turkish mosques, we observed that there
were no pictures, images, statues or altars, which universally
decorate the cathedrals in Catholic countries. Friday is their
day for worship. The public service commences about noon
by reading portions of the Koran, and delivering sermons
or addresses by the "Imens." They hold Moses in pro-
found reverence, and also Jesus Christ, but Mahomet as God's
last and greatest prophet. Their creed is '^ There is no Deity
but God, and Mahomet is God's Apostle." Adam, Noah,
Abraham, Moses and Jesus Christ were all God's servants in
their various ages, but the greatest and best is Mahomet.

The Copts are avowed Christians, the descendants of the
ancient Egyptians, and are very numerous. They have regu-
lar convents, nunneries, monasteries and about two hundred
churches. The other religions are the Greek Church and the
Latin or Roman Catholic.

But little attention is paid to education. Parents gener-
ally content themselves with instilling into the minds of their

192 COKRESPONDENCE OF

children a few principles of religion. The child, as early as
possible, is taught to say, '* I testify that there is no Deity
but God, and I testify that Mahomet is God's apostle." The
boys are placed under a schoolmaster to be instructed in a
few simple rudiments of education. The common manner of
instruction is to sit upon the ground or floor, pupils and
schoolmaster, each boy with his tablet in hand or a portion of
the Koran or a kind of desk of palm sticks. All the boys
recite or chant this lesson aloud, at the same time rocking
their heads and bodies incessantly backward and forward,
this practice being thought to assist the memory.

While in this country I have not witnessed a single case
of intoxication, though I have been in many places of large
gatherings for general amusement. On every occasion the
people were remarkably orderly — no boisterous speech'^s,
loud talking or laughter. In these large crowds, and at
hotels where only Egyptian servants and Arabs were employed,
I considered my little effects more secure than at American or
European establishments.

The dress of the men of the middle and higher classes,
consists generally of the following articles — first, a pair of
drawers of linen or cotton tied around the body by a draw-
string or band, the ends of which are embroidered with fancy
colored silk. The drawers descend a little below the knees
or to the ankles. Next is worn a shirt with full sleeves reach-
ing to the wrists, which is made of linen or cotton, muslin or
silk ; over this is worn a garment of silk or cotton descend-
ing to the ankles, having long sleeves. The costume of men
of the lower classes is very simple. These, if not of the very
poorest class, wear drawers, or shirt or gown with wide
sleeves and a woollen girdle or broad red belt. Their turban
is generally composed of a white, red or yellow woollen shawl,
but we saw many different forms of turbans — the common
style among the servants consists of several spiral twists, one
above another like the threads of a screw. Those worn by

PALESTINE TOUEISTS. 193

the upper class are of a better style. The dress of the Egyp-
tian ladies is much after the fashion of that of the men, but
more handsome and elegant.

The Mahommedans, like the Christians, are divided into
various religious societies, each having its peculiar tenets
and practices. The Dervishes constitute an important sect —
are very numerous and in many parts of Egypt are liighly
respected. Their customs and modes of worship are singular
and curious. Sometimes they enter a solitary cell, remain
forty days and nights, fasting from daybreak till sunset, em-
ploying their time in imploring forgiveness, praising God,
&c. Their religious exercises consist chiefly in the perform-
ance of what is called "zikers." Sometimes standing in the
form of a circular or an oblong ring, or in two rows facing
each other, sometimes sitting, they exclaim or chant "Lailah,
Ella-llah" (there is no Deity but God); "Allah! Allah!
Allah!" (God! God! God!); or repeat other invocations
until tlieir strength is nearly exhausted, accompanying their
ejaculations or chants with a motion of the head, or of the
whole body.

I felt a great curiosity to witness their manner of worship
— fortunately an opportunity presented. We took carriages,
accompanied by a Dervish guide of some distinction, and pro-
ceeded to one of their mosques in Cairo. We were requested
to take off our boots before entering the building— their
places of worship being considered sacred and holy. About
fifty Dervishes were standing in the form of a semi-circle —
their head priest in the centre. They were bowing their heads
and bodies nearly to the floor simultaneously and very rapid-
ly, keeping time to miserably wretched music, their long,
flowing hair, and wild, fanatical expressions, together with
their horrible ejaculations and howls, made them appear more
like lunatics or demons than rational beings. They continued
their exercises about fifteen minutes, until, becoming ex-
hausted, they rested a few moments, then commenced repeat-

194 CORRESPONDENCE OF

ing the ceremonies. One of them, either through a high
state of religious enthusiasm or vehemence of exertion, with
a terrible groan fell prostrate, foaming at the mouth, his eyes
closed, his limbs convulsed and his fingers clenched. The
Dervishes were pleased with this occurrence, considering it a
divine manifestation, which increased their enthusiasm. At
length the presiding Dervish raised the fallen man and placed
him in the circle in charge of two of his companions. An-
other occurrence of similar character happened previously to
our leaving the mosque. While these exercises were going
on, two Dervishes stepped inside the circle and commenced
whirling around, using both feet to produce the motion, ex-
tending their arms, and spinning around like tops, with great
velocity. I expected every moment to see them precipitated
headlong upon the floor, but having continued nearly ten
minutes they joined the circle, apparently but little exhaust-
ed.

We were pleased with our visit in Alexandria, and with
our Hotel de 1' Europe, which nearly equals the first-class
hotels in America. Pompey's Pillar, Cleopatra's Needle, thfe
Catacombs, Museum of Antiquities, &c., received a due share
of our attention. But little improvement is at present being
made in Alexandria, compared with tliat of Cairo — it seems
merely of importance as a maritime city.

In traveling in Egypt along the delta of the Nile, where-
ever its waters can reach by overflow or irrigation, the soil
is remarkably rich, fertile and productive. Heavy growths
of wheat, barley, clover, cane, cotton, with now and then a
field of flax, also fields ^of beans, orange, lemon and fine
vegetable gardens, with peach trees now in full bloom.

In passing from Cairo to Ismalia, we saw one steam
plow in operation, but generally the ground is cultivated by
rudely constructed plows drawn by oxen or an ox and camel
yoked together — sometimes by two camels.

We have visited Suez and looked upon the beautiful

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 195

waters of the famous Red Sea, and enjoyed a delightful sail
over a portion of the great Suez Canal.

Tliis afternoon , we leave by steamer for Jaffa, where we
arrange for our Palestine tour, which will occupy about four
weeks, and be performed on horseback.

LORENZO SNOW.

LETTER LIII

Leaving the Land of Egypt — Going to Jaffa — Land of Goshen — City of Bu-
bastis — Suez — Mount Sinai — At K'antarah — Lake of Menzaleh — The Suez
Canal— Port Said.

Hotel de France, Port Said, Egypt,

February 22nd, 1873.

Editors Salt Lake Herald:

This afternoon at 5 o'clock we intend to leave the land of
Egypt by the Austrian Lloyd steamer, for Jafla, where we
expect to arrive to-morrow about 9 a. m. , and step our feet
for the first time on the soil of the Holy Land, where so great
events in sacred history have transpired. On the 1 7th we
left Cairo, per train, for Suez, ma Zagazig and Ismalia, pass-
ing through what was formerly called the land of Goshen,
and reached Suez at 7 p. m., where we stopped at the Suez
hotel. About forty-five miles from Cairo and near the station
of Zagazig, we saw the extensive ruins of the old city of Bubas-
tis, which was one of the most ancient cities of Egypt, where
a magnificent temple of the goddess of Bubastis was erected.
It measured 500 feet in length, and was built of the finest red

196 CORRESPONDENCE OF

granite. At Zagazig we stopped half an hour for lunch, and
at the next station, Aboo Haraed, we met the train from Suez
with Mr. Cook and party, who passed through Salt Lake
City in October, 18 7^, on their trip around the world ; but as
we were leaving the station when they came in, we could not
speak to them. In Suez, but little of interest is to be seen.
It is situated near the northern extremity of the western
branch of the Red Ssa, or Gulf of Suez, and it is supposed
that near this pla^^e the Israelites passed through this sea. In
clear weather you can discern in the far distance some peaks
of the Mt. Sinai range of mountains. On the morning of the
19th we rode bank over the same road we had come to Isma-
lia, which was a very lively place during the building of the
Suez canal. It is very regularly laid out, has good and wide
streets, planted with shade trees, and some tine vegetable
and flower gardens ; and we were told that the sandy soil,
when well watered, would produce almost anything. There
is a nice Swiss chalet of Mr. M. De Lesseps, the principal
designer of the Suez canal, which was the first building
erected here ; then there is a pilaoe of the Khedive, and the
water works, by which fresh Nile water is pumped from the
Cairo Canal in a double row of cast iron pipes, a distance of
fifty miles to Port Said.

We left Ismalia yesterday morning on a small steam-
boat of the Egyptian line, only forty-eight feet long, and
passed through the Suez Canal. We stopped an hour and a
quarter at Kantarah, which is a half-way station, and reached
here at B.30 p. m. We passed five large ocean steamers, and
in approaching Port Said we saw thousands of scarlet flam-
ingoes, rosy pelicans, herons and ducks on the Lake of Men-
zaleh, through which the canal continues thirty-seven miles.
The width of the surface of the canal is 32H feet, wh-re the
banks are low, and 190 feet through the deep cuttings ; at
the base it is 72 feet wide, and the depth is 26 feet. The
slope of the bank is one in five near the water line, and one

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 197

in two at the base ; the total length is 100 miles, and the cost
was about seventeen million pounds sterling. Port Said has
at present about 8,000 inhabitants ; and ifc being a port of the
Mediterranean, there is a good deal more life in the streets
and more business transacted here than at eitlier Suez or Is-
malia.

We have not heard from home for four weeks, but hope
to find a large batch of mail matter at Jaffa on our arrival
there to-morrow morning. We are all in usual health.

PAUL A. SCHETTLEE.

LETTER LIV

Near Jaffa— The Martyrs' Tower— Plains of Sharon— Battle Ground of David
and Goliath— Church of the Holy Sepulchre— St. Stephen's Gate— Valley
of Jehoshaphat— Sacred Relics— Centre of the Earth.

Camp near Jaffa Gate, Jerusalem,

February 26th, 1873.

Elder Eobert L. Campbell:

Your favor No. 7, of December 28, and January 7, was
received in our noon halt in a ruin containing the Martyrs'
Tower, near Ramleh, February 24. I thank you for your
correspondence, and hope you will continue it. Others
of the party got letters fourteen days later than mine. I
stand riding an Arab horse better than I had anticipated.
Our arrival in Jafla was on Sunday morning, 23rd, the
sea smooth, and the day very fine. I presume all the party
were disappointed in the fertile character of the Plains of

198 CORRESrONDENCE OF

Sharon, and the extent to which they are cultivated. The
mountains of Judea are rocky and barren, but flocks of
fat sheep were grazing on the brook Elah, where King David
and Goliath had their encounter. We were tired by our
horseback ride when we arrived here last evening.

We have three large circular wall tents, lined, carpeted,
and furnished with iron bedsteads, tables and camp stools.
We have a Syrian dragoman, who is a Roman Catholic,
named Antonio Macloof. Our cook supplies us with three
excellent meals each day. To-day we have visited the Church
of the Holy Sepulchre, or more properly, the Church of the
Holy Places, for the mother of Constantiue was so exceed-
ingly fortunate in grouping the localities of several mam-
moth events as to enclose them all in one building, which
contains chapels and churches for Greeks, Roman Catholics,
Armenians and Copts. These are enriched with many very
costly presents, of various descriptions, from nations and
individuals.

We met Mr. Cook near Zagazig and passed him by rail
without being able to speak to him, his train having been
detained by drifting sand, or we should have met him at
Zagazig, Egypt. Two of his* 'round the world" part}^ are
now with us ; they joined him at Chicago, and speak highly
of their tour; they left him at Cairo to do Palestine, etc.

Sister Eliza R. Snow proves to be a first-class horsewoman,
and endures the labors of the journey very well. Brother
Carrington found it severe on his rheumatic ankles in riding
down hill. My grey Tartar has not stumbled with me ; the
worst thing I dread is the sun on my head, to mitigate which
I wear a cork hat, with an inside rim, the whole wrapped
with a white and then a straw-colored scarf, and also have a
light colored umbrella, lined with green. I think I shall be
able to stand it, though the sun is pretty sharp here.

Standing just outside of St. Stephen's gate, and looking
into the Valleyof Jehoshaphat, where the Brook Kedron once

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 199

ran, 1 read Zachariali 14, 4, and my impressions of the spot

and situation were far more pleasing than any I have had

since coming to Jerusalem. I do not wonder at Mark Twain

burlesquing the ancient sites, when our guide, Isaac, told us

gravely that there was the rock cleft at the crucilixion, from

which was taken the skull of Adam, and took us into an

adjoining room, called the Greek Church, and there showed

us a small pedestal which he said was the centre of the world,

and under it was buried the skull of our father Adam, which

they had moved some thirty feet from where it was claimed

to be found, for the sake of laying it in the exact centre ; it

even made me smile, and when Sister Snow gravely enquired

how they identified the skull to be Adam's, be honestly

replied he did not know.

God bless you.

Yours, &c.,

GEOEGE A. SMITH.

LETTER LV

View of Jerusalem— Solomon's City Wall— Hole " Made by the Saviour's
Elbow "—Crowds of Beggars— Mourning Women.

Camp near Jaffa Gate, Jerusalem,

February 26th, 1873,
My Dear Son:

My first view of Jerusalem was from the northwest, the
worst view from which to form an impression, being mostly
the wall which must have been chiefly built by the Mahom-
medans since the days of the Crusaders. Some English
archseologists, led by Captain Warren, sank a shaft 140 feet,
near St. Stephen's Gate, and found the city wall of Solomon,

200 CORRESPONDENCE OF

showing that a big levelling had been done by ruins, and
there is plenty of room for more. The Turkish government
stopped the explorations, and they are closed up. This ex-
plodes most of the identical spots that are shown, though in
some cases the original rock appears at the present surface.

The mountains that we passed over are as thoroughly
rocky, and the rocks broken in shivers, as could well be
imagined. I think they must at some time have been cov-
ered with a coat of soil which has been either blown or washed
away.

I could but be amused to-day when the guide showed us
a rock with a hole said to have been made by the elbow of
the Saviour when he sank under the cross. The rock is built
into a wall claimed to be near or at the spot where he sank ;
the hole is large enough for Christians to have dug out quite
a number of relics. Beggars are almost innumerable, and
they beg, and follow, and whine, and cry, until one almost
has to strike them to get rid of them. One old man, nearly
naked, squats by the roadside near the Jafla gate, trembling
all over. Mr. Bergheim tells us he is a professional beggar,
and owns 600 olive trees and four orchards, and spends a
couple of months, while foreigners are visiting Jerusalem, in
begging. We saw bands of professional mourning women,
dressed in white, going to the graveyards to mourn for the
dead ; they do it better than amateurs.

Love to all the folks. It is raining States' fashion, and
is quite chilly, and our tent leaks a little, though we have a
very good one.

GEOEGE A. SMITH.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 201

LETTER LVI

Leave Port Said— Jaffa— Mussulman Customs Officials— Travelliug Arrange-
ment—The Oldest Seaport in the World— Place where the Ark was Built
—Jonah's Place of Embarkation— House of Simon the Tanner— Mahom-
medan Funeral Ceremony— Plains of Sharon— The Martyrs' Tower— A
Night in the Desert— Start for the Holy City— Battle Field of David and
Goliath— Resting Place of the Ark of the Covenant— Rose of Sharon— St.
George's Church— Mount Zion— Mount of Olives— In Camp before Jeru-
salem.

Jerusalem, February 26th, 1873.

Editor Deseret News:

Saturday evening, tlie 22nd inst., we steamed out from
Port Said, and the following morning anchored within a half
mile of Jaffa, the first seaport of Palestine. In boisterous
weather and rough seas, landing is difficult and dangerous —
frequently impossible, occasioning much annoyance and
great expense to tourists. As we arose at early dawn, our
anxiety was relieved by finding we were favored with a
smooth sea and fine weather, and we were enabled by means
of small boats to disembark with comparative safety. On
approaching Jaffa from the sea, it presents a charming and
picturesque appearance, being situated upon a high eminence,
its streets rising one above another like seats in an amphi-
theater, surrounded by beautiful lemon and orange groves
and tall waving cypresses. On entering the custom house
with our baorgage, some francs bestowed upon the smiling,
obsequious Mussulman official saved the trouble of looking
up our passports and occupying time which otherwise would

202 CORRESPONDENCE OF

have been employed by officious Turks in ransacking our
satchels and trunks. We proceeded on loot to our encamp-
ment, carriages being out of the question, through the suburbs
of the town, till we came to a Turkish cemetery near the
shore of the Mediterranean. We found the arrangements
completed for our travelling expedition — two sleeping tents,
a separate one for the ladies, a kitchen tent with cook stove,
a saloon or dining tent, iron bedsteads, mattrasses, clean
white sheets, abundance of bedding, carpets and camp stools.
We were provided with good horses, saddles, an efficient
dragoman, plenty of servants and preparations to serve three
meals per day under the supervision of an experienced cook.

Jaffa is considered the oldest seaport in the world ; it
has a population of about five thousand, principally Arabs,
Greeks, and Mahommedans.

The interior of the city does not compare favorably in its
appearance with its exterior. The streets are narrow, crooked,
and filthy in the extreme — the houses uncomfortable, dark
and gloomy, and the occupants are certainly unprepossessing
in manners and general appearance. This is the ancient
Joppa of Bible history, and is supposed to be the place
where Noah's Ark was built, the port where the prophet
Jonah embarked when fleeing from the presence of the Lord,
and where Hiram, King of Tyre, brought the cedars of Leba-
non for the building of the Temple at Jerusalem.

Among other places of sacred interest, we visited the
'' House of Simon the tanner, by the sea side," where Peter
had the remarkable vision in which the will of God was
revealed concerning the Gentiles, by letting down a sheet
containing all manner of b'easts, &c., and heard the voice
commanding him to " rise, kill and eat."

During our encampment we witnessed a ceremony of
Mahommedan burial. The corpse o fa child, wrapped in white,
was borne to the grave, without a coffin, in the arms of a
Mussulman, attended by the parents and a few friends. The

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 203

body was placed in a small enclosure formed at the bottom
of the grave by stones placed around, after which several
small paper packages were emptied into the grave ; the en-
closure containing the corpse was overlaid with flat rocks,
the grave filled with earth, then a half bushel of beautiful
little sea shells scattered over. Several women, clothed in
white, knelt around the grave and commenced weeping and
wailing in the most affecting manner, which they continued
for several hours.

The next morning our tents were struck and we mounted
our horses, following our dragoman in single file along the
winding streets of Jaffa, lined with crowds of gazing Arabs
and Mussulmen. After leaving the town we passed through
extensive and lovely orange and lemon groves loaded with
golden fruit, and presently reached the flowery Plains of
Sharon. The atmosphere was sweet and balmy, the gorgeous
sun spreading its enlivening rays upon the beautiful country
around, the morning lovely as ever dawned upon the holy
land of Palestine. We feK^ that we were passing over the
land once occupied by the children of Abraham, the plains
once trod by the kings of Israel with their marshalled hosts,
the land of the apostles and prophets. We were in Pales-
tine ! The Holy Land ! The consciousness of the fact was
inspiring. Hour after hour we rode onward in silent and
solemn meditation ; at length we reached the city of Ramleh,
four hours distant from Jaffa, where we stopped to rest our
animals, and partake of refreshments. Here is " The Mar-
tyrs' Tower." We ascended a flight of stairs to its lofty
summit, which commands a magnificent view of the sur-
rounding country — the Plains of Sharon, Arab villages here
and there upon rising mounds, gigantic prickly pear hedges,
olive orchards, and now and then a palm tree rising majes-
tically above the whole, and the mountains of Judea appear-
ing in the distance.

We resumed our journey, passed trains of loaded camels

204 CORRESPONDENCE OF

mounted by half naked Arabs, smokinf^ their long pipes,
looking down smilingly from tlieir "ships of the desert,"
doubtless sympathizing with us in our humbler mods of
travelling.

The soil is generally rich and fertile, growing fields of
wheat and vegetables. The dev/s fall profusely, and we
were informed tliat latterly rain is more frequent in Palestine
than in former years.

About 4 p. m. we arrived at our encampment, a beautiful
basin enclosed by romantic hills at the entrance of the Valley
of Ajalon. Through the night we were serenaded by bands
of musical frogs accompanied by howls of jackals in the ad-
jacent hills, relieved by the low plaintive chants of our Turk-
ish guards, and charming songs of cuckoos perched in the
branches of olive trees around our camp.

On the following morning, after an early breakfast, with
our faces toward the " Holy City " we moved forward, passing
through the Valley of Ajalon, and soon commenced ascend-
ing into a more elevated region of country, generally rocky
and mountainous, producing but little more than required for
the flocks of sheep and goats ranging upon it.

About 12 we stopped to lunch under the shade of olive
trees in the Valley of Elah, where it is said David selected
his stones with which to combat Goliath, while the two con-
tending armies were encamped on the slopes of the adjacent
mountains. At a short distance from this locality we were
shown the Kirjath-jearim of sacred history, where the " Ark
of the Covenant" is said to have rested twenty years.

The Valley of Elah is richly ornamented in the midst of
its rocky surface and sparse vegetation, with what is called
the " Rose of Sharon," a flower of a deep red, velvety ap-
pearance, three inches in circumference or thereabout, grow-
ing from six inches to one foot in height. We saw but few
on the Plains of Sharon, more in the Valley of Ajalon and in
some other parts of the hilly country. They were blooming

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 205

on the top of the crumbling ruins of St. George's Church,
built by the Crusaders on the identical spot where the Ark is
said to have rested.

One hour's ride from our lunching place will bring us to
Jerusalem. We move on and at length ascend an eminence,
and gaze on the " Holy City," Jerusalem. Away to the right
is Mount Zion, the city of David. Off to our left, that lofty
eminence, with an aspect so barren, is the Mount of Olives,
once the favorite resort of our Saviour, and the spot last
pressed by his sacred feet before He ascended into the pres-
ence of His Father. These interesting historic scenes, with
all their sacred associations, inspire thoughts and reflections
impressive and solemn. Yes, there is Jerusalem! Where
Jesus lived and taught, and was crucified, where he cried *' It
is finished," and bowed his head and died! We slowly and
thoughtfully wind our way down the hill, passing the Kus-
sian buildings and other prominent establishments, until we
reach the city and enter our encampment.

LOEENZO SNOW.

206 CORRESPONDENCE OF

LETTER LVII

On the Mediterranean— At Jaffa^Cheap Oranges— Visit a German Colony—
Arimathea — Hills of Juclea— Valley of Ajalon— Lydda of the Acts—
Kirjath-jearim— Mount of Olives— The Holy City— Camp by the Jaffa
Gate— Church of the Holy Sepulchre— Where the Saviour was Scourged
—Judgment Hall— Place of the Crucifixion —Valley of Jehoshaphat —
Garden of Gethsemane— Tomb of Zacharias— Jacob's Well— Solomon's
Pools— Bethlehem— Church of the Nativity— Dead Sea— Ruins of Jericho
— Elisha's Fovintain-Gilgal— Christ's Hotel— Mosque of Omar— Judgment
Seat of Solomon— Tomb of Aaron's Sons— Pool of Bethesda.

In Camp before the Jaffa Gate of Jerusalem,

February 25th, 1873.

Editors Salt Lake Herald:

We went on board the steamer Vesta, at 5 p. m. on Sat-
urday the 22nd, at Port Said, and had a very fine and smooth
passage over the Mediterranean to Jaffa. When we awoke
on Sunday morning, we were in sight of the coast of Judea,
and dropped anchor in the harbor of Jaffa, the ancient Joppa,
at 7.30 a. m. In stormy weather landing is very difficult
here, and in rough weather it is quite impossible, so that the
steamers have to go on to Beyroute ; but we were favored
with a smooth sea, though the breakers on the coast run
pretty high. Our boats passed safely through the huge
rocks, and we stepped ashore at 8.15 a. m.

By the aid of a backsheesh, which was openly asked
of us from a custom-house official, our luggage was allowed
to pass without any examination, and we went immediately
through narrow, filthy, crooked and ill-paved streets to our

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 207

camp outside of one of the gates, where we found our tents
pitched and ready to receive us. Mr. Alexander Howard, the
chief dragoman, had come here a few days ahead of us, and
all the necessary preparations for our party, and for others,
who are travelling with Mr. Cook, were made.

Jaffa is a very old seaport, and makes a fine appearance
from the sea as it rises in the form of an amphitheatre. It also
looks well from the surrounding hills in the distance, as it is sur-
rounded by beautiful orchards of oranges, lemons and almonds.
Some of our party bought one franc's worth of oranges (about
20 cents), and got thirty. A few of those we bought measured
thirteen inches in circumference, and we were informed that
extra specimens sometimes measure from eighteen to twenty
inches. They are also of very good quality. We were quite
astonished at the richness of the soil around Jaffa and
througli the Plains of Sharon, as we expected to see nothing
but a barren waste.

Sunday afternoon we had to select our horses and sad-
dles, as we were to leave early in the morning. We visited
the German colony close by our camp, about half a mile out-
side the gate, and were introduced tt> its superintendent, Mr.
Cbristoph Hoffman, by the American vice consul, Mr. Ernest
Hardegof, also a German, who lives there and keeps a hotel.
We had quite a pleasant interview with Mr. Hoffman and
some of his associates, and got from him some information in
regard to their colony, and how they obtained a clear title
from the Turkish government for their lands. In the course
of tlie afternoon Mr. Hardegg called upon us in our tents and
kindly offered his services.

The principal point of interest here is the '" house of one
Simon, a tanner," beautifully situated hy the seaside, (see
Acts X), which we visited, and went on the roof, where it is
said Peter had that remarkable vision recorded in Acts X — 11.
It was also here that the cedars of Lebanon were brought
from Tyre, and then transported to Jerusalem. Here Peter

208 COEllESrONDENCE OF

restored Tabitha to life, (see Acts IX— 3G) and tradition says
tliat this is the place where the Ark was built.

Shortly before we struck our tents on Monday morning,
the 24th, th? prince of Saxe -Weimar, whose tents were close
by ours, arrived with a smal] suite and was received with mil-
itary honors. At 8.30 a. m., we were all in the saddle and
commenced our thirty days' trip, on horseback, through Pal-
estine. We rode for some time through beautiful orange^
groves, fenced in with gigantic prickly pear hedges, and then
came upon the fertile Plains of Sharon. At 11.80 a. m., we
reached the ruins of the old Mosque of Ramleh, supposed to
be the ancient Arimathea; ascended the Martyrs' Tower,
from which a beautiful view of the surrounding country and
the Mediterranean is obtained ; and took our lunch in the
shade of the old walls. We liad been sad]y disappointed on
our arrival at Jaffa in not lindina: any letters from home, and
had been without any news for four weeks. It was, there-
fore, a matter of great rejoicing among us, when a special
messenger reached us h^^re with our long expected letters,
dated up to January 21st; especially as the contents were
generally satisfactory.

At 1.30 we broke camp, and rode over the hills of Judea
to the mouth of the Valley of Ajalon, which we reached after
a three hours' ride, and found our tents pitched, as the pack
animals, with all the baggage, had gone through without
stopping. We have two large round wall tents, about six-
teen feet in diameter, one of which is our dining tent, which
President Smith and myself ocoupy as our bedroom during
the night, and on the top of wliich the stars and stripes are
flying to the breeze. The other one, of the same size, is occu-
pied by Messrs. Lorenzo Snow, Albert Carrington, Feramorz
Little and Thomas W. Jennings ; and a smaller one, of about
twelve feet in diameter, is for the ladies, Miss Eliza R. Snow
and Miss Clara S. Little. We have iron bed-frames, and a mat-
trass and sufficient blankets to keep us pretty comfortable.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 20&

We have three meals a day, and pronounce the table as one
of the best we have had since we left home. Then there is a
tent for our dragoman, Mr. Antonio, a Syrian, for the chief
cook, and for his two assistants. Besides, we have ten mul-
eteers, and fifteen pack animals in our outfit.

At 7.30 next morning we were all in the saddle, and
traveled for some time through the Valley of Ajalon and then
over the rough and barren mountains of Judea, passing
within sight of Ludd, which is the ancient Lydda of the Acts
IX— 32, and stepped a short time at Kirjatli-jearim (I Sam. VII
—12), at the ruin of the Church of St. George, which was
built by the Crusaders in 1200 on the spot where the Ark of
the Covenant rested for twenty years. A few miles further
on we stopped for lunch at 11 a. m., in the Valley of Elah,
where there is the brook from which David is said to have
taken the smooth stones with which he slew Goliath. We
continued our journey towards the '^ City of David," at 1.30
p. m., and our road led us over very steep and barren hills,
from which at some points we had a fine view over the Plains
of Sharon and the Mediterranean in the distance. About 2.
15 p. m. , we came in sight of the Mount of Olives and a por-
tion of the *' Holy City," when various meditations passed
through my mind. We rode along by the Greek, the Rus-
sian and the Prussian convents, also some fine private build-
ings of Europeans, outside the walls of this city, till we
reached our camping ground on the northwest side of the
city, within a few minutes walk of the Jaffa gate, at 2.30
p. m.

To-day we engaged a guide to show us through the city,
the streets of which are very narrow and badly paved. The
principal street, called ^' Christian Street," is only from twelve
to fifteen feet wide, and the population is variously estimated
from 20,000 to 30,000 inhabitants. Jerusalem has a number
of gates, wMch are closed during the night. On the north is
the Damascus gate, on the south the Zion gate, on the east

210 COKRESPONDENCE OF

St. Stephen's gate, and on the west the Jaffa gate. Several
others, as those of Herod, the Golden gate, etc., are always
closed.

After visiting a few shops we went to the Church of the
Holy Sepulchre, in which we were shown a good many
sights. At the entrance we saw the slab on which the body
of the Saviour was anointed for his burial ; the place where
Mary stood at the crucifixion ; the sepulchre itself, with most
gorgeous decorations, and covered with a large number of
golden and silver lamps, which are always kept burning ;
the stone where the angel sat when Mary came to the grave ;
tlie spots where the Saviour and Martha stood, when slie met
him after his resurrection and thought he was the gardener ;
the sword and spurs of Godfrey of Bouillon, who was King
of Jerusalem in 1100 ; the pillar of flagellation, on which the
Saviour was scourged ; the stone which was rolled from the
mouth of the sepulchre ; the tombs of Joseph of Arimathea
and of Nicodemus : the place where the Saviour stood before
they took him to Mount Calvary, and where he left his foot-
prints in the rock upon which he stood ; the place where
Mary sat after the crucifixion, and was comforted by the
other women ; a rock which was rent during the earthquake ;
the place where they divided his clothes, and cast the lots
over his coat ; the place where St. Helena, mother of the Em-
peror Constantine, sat to pay off the workmen ; the place
where she found the three crosses ; a very fine altar erected
and presented to the church by Ferdinand Maximilian, Arch-
duke of Austria, in 1857 ; a reddish column on which the
Saviour sat when they crowned him with a crown of thorns,
also an imitation of the original crown. Then we went into
the Greek chapel, in the centre of which is a kind of plat-
form, which they point out as the centre of the world. Be-
low this is the Chapel of Adam, where they told us that the
skull of Adam was baried. Then we were shown the place
where the cross of the Saviour stood and the crosses of the

PALESTINE TOUEISTS. 211

two thieves ; close to it a large rock, rent during the earth-
quake ; the tomb of Melchizedek ; the places where the Sa-
viour was nailed to the cross, and where he was taken off.
Our guide was honest enough to tell us that he did not believe
all these places to be the identical spots, and when it came to
the story about Adam's skull and some other legends, we could
not help smiling. From the Church of the Holy Sepulchre we
proceeded to the ruins of the Church and Hospice of the
Knights of St. John, which were destroyed by the Saracens in
1178. The Superintendent, a German, told us that the Sultan
had made a present of these grounds to the present Emperor
of Germany about three years ago, but it was a very expensive
present, as they liad already removed 500,000 donkey loads of
dirt to make the excavations, and it would take from two to
three hundred thousand loads more to finish the job. From
there we. passed the Pillar gate, through which condemned cri-
minals were led out to Mount Calvary, to be executed ; thence
we turned into the "Via Dolorosa," or way of sorrows, where
Veronica wiped the perspiration from the Saviour's face, and
where an impression of his features was left on her handker-
chief. Close to this spot i s the place wh ere her father burnt her
in a small oven because she believed in Christ. A little beyond
was the spot where the Saviour fell a second time with the
cross, and left a large mark of his elbow in a rock. Then we
came to the rich man's house at whose door Lazarus lay, and
to the place where the Saviour fell with his cross the first
time, and where Mary met him and wept. We passed the
Catholic church, '^Ecce Homo," the site of Pilate's palace, of
which one arch is left ; and the pool of Bethesda, which is now
dry and being filled up — it measures 360 feet in length, 130 feet
in breadth and is 75 feet deep. From there we went through
the St. Stephen's gate outside the walls, and had a fine view of
the Mount of Olives ; the road on which David ran from Absa-
lom ; the Valley of Jehoshaphat ; the Garden of Gethsemane,
and the place where Stephen was stoned. In returning out-

212 . CORRESPONDENCE OF

side the city walls to our camp, we passed the Tomb of Zach-
arias, which has an elevation of thirty feet, and is cut out of
solid rock, (see Matthew XXIII— 29 to 35) and the quarries of
Solomon under the walls of the city.

March 3, 1873.— The night of the 26th to the 27th of Feb-
ruary was cold, and it was raining quite hard, but as it looked
like clearing up in the morning, we struck our tents and
left for the Dead Sea.

At 7.30 a. m. we passed Jacob's Well, where he met
Rachel with her father's sheep ; at 9 a. m. stopped at Rachel's
Tomb a little beyond, a few minutes, and rode over an ex-
ceedingly rough and stony road to Solomon's pools. There
are three of them, the upper one 380 feet long, one end 250
feet wide, the other 160 feet, and 25 feet deep ; the middle
one is 423 feet long, west end 148 feet wide, east end 250 feet
wide, and 39 feet deep; the lower one is 582 feet long, 207
feet wide, and 50 feet deep. They are filled from a spring in
the neighborhood. The walls are partly formed of massive
hewn stone, and partly by exnavatlons in the solid rock. We
rode along the aqueduct to Bethlehem, where we arrived at
11.15 a. m. The streets are very narrow, steep and crooked
and we stopped only long enough to visit the Ciiurch of the
Nativity, with its many stories and legends. On the allpged
spot where the child Jesus was born is a silver star, laid in
the floor with the inscription, in Latin, "■ Hie de Virgine Maria
Jesus Christus natus est." We rode about one mile down
the Rill-side, and lunched under an almond tree. At 2.30 p.
m. we again mounted our steeds, and rode over the moun-
tains of Judea in an easterly direction. We soon came in
sight of the Dead Sea in the distance, ^nd the high mountains
of Moab on the eastern shore. We visited the Greek con-
vent of Mar Saba, where John the Baptist is said to have com-
menced his ministry ; and camped two miles beyond, near the
dry bed of the Brook Kedron. The following morning we
had to get up at 5 o'clock, because we had a long day's ride

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 213

before us. The road was partly very rongli, but tlie weather
was fine. We liad a Bedouin sheilv, or chief, and three armed
Bedouin guardsmen along. When we neared the shore of
the Dead Sea, nine Bedouins came out of the canes and
wanted to stop us ; but as soon as they saw that we were
guard-ed, five of them fled and our men took the guns of the
four others. We stopped about forty-five minutes, filled
several bottles with water, and three or four gentlemen of our
party and of another one that was traveling with us, indulged
in a bath. About an hour's ride brought us to the banks of
the Jordan, where we lunched under the shade of the olive
trees, and about 4 p. m. we reached the ruins of Jericho,
which consist of an old tower and parts of an aqueduct. (See
Joshua II— 1 ; VI— 1 ; XXIY— 11 ; also Matth. XX— 29 ; Luke
XIX— 1.) Here is alsoElisha's Fountain, the water of which is
very good. Near to this place is Rilia, the ancient Gilgal.
(See Joshua IV, 19,20, Judges II-l, and I. Samuel X-8.) After
supper some fifteen Bedouins came to our camp from the
neighboring village to dance for us ; they also performed a
sham fight, and finished the programme of their evening's
entertainment with the song, " May the ladies' eyes be like
tlie moon, " in Arabic.

The following morning, the 1st of March, we started back
for Jerusalem; stopped for lunch at a fountain near some
ruins called "Christ's Hotel;" passed through Bethany,
where are the houses of Mary, Martha and Lazarus, and the
tomb of the latter, and two miles further we crossed the Val-
ley of Jehoshaphat, passed through the Jewish graveyard,
and reached our old camp ground outside the Jaffa gate about
3 p. m.

On Sunday, March 2nd, we visited the Mount of Olives,
in the forenoon, and, in the afternoon, held a sacramental
meeting in one of our tents, and strolled through the narrow,
dirty streets of the city. To-day we visited the Mosque of
Omar, tiie grounds of wliich cover an area of 1 ,500 feet long

214 CORRESPONDENCE OF

by 1,000 feet wide, and are said to be the site of Solomon's
Temple. The mosque stands about in the centre of these
grounds, and is a fine piece of Saracenic architecture. It is
considered the second holy place in the Mahommedan world,
and is built on Mount Muriah, It was begun in A. D. 680, and
finished in seven years. In front of the east gate, or gate of
David, is the throne or judgment seat of Solomon, under a
beautifully ornamented dome in the open air, supported by
pillars. We entered by this gate, were shown the inside of
the roof, finished in carved cedar wood, the beautifully colored
windows, and the rock Es-Sukrah in the centre of the
mosque, said to be the top of Mount Moriah, on which Abra-
ham offered his son Isaac. Under this huge rock is a cave,
In which it is said that Jesus, Abraham, David, Solomon,
Moses and Elijah have prayed ; and in the centre of the floor
of this cave is a marble slab, beneath which the Mahommedan s
say is the " Well of Souls," sometimes called the *' Gate of
Hell," and by others the " Gate of Paradise."

In passing through the yard to the Mosque El-aksa, in
the same enclosure, we saw an old, dry fountain, of Solo-
mon's time, where the people made their ablutions before go-
ing to prayer. In this last named mosque we saw the tomb
of the two sons of Aaron ; the pulpit of Omar, finely carved
in cedar wood and ornamented with ivory, said to be the only
part preserved from the inside of Solomon's Temple; the
studio of Omar, witli ancient marble columns ; and a marble
cradle, in which, tradition says, Jesus slept during the three
days he was lost from his parents, when twelve years old.
Under another building, our guide sliowed us about twenty-
six feet of the original wall of the "Horse gate," and some
pillars of Solomon's time ; and below another building, the
extensive " Stables of Solomon. " We then ascended one of
the towers of the city wall, which forms one side of the en-
closure of the grounds, near the pool of Bethesda, and had a
very fine view of the city and environs ; saw the Golden gate,

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 215

the '* Place of Wailing," close to the outside of the wall of
the mosque, where, against a wall of huge blocks of stone,
the devout Jews go to mourn over their calamities every
Friday evening.

Before returning to camp, I called with President Smith
on Mr. Abraham Askenasi, the Rabbi of the Portuguese
congregation in Jerusalem, to whom he had a letter of intro-
duction from a Rabbi in San Francisco. We were kindly re-
ceived, treated to some refreshments, and the Rabbi said he
would return the call at our tents to-morrow.

I forgot to give you the dimensions of the Dead Sea. It
is a beautiful smooth lake, of extremely saline and bitumi-
nous water, about forty miles long by ten miles wide, and
covers the destroyed Cities of the Plain. There is a remark-
able stillness brooding over the whole region. The surface of
the water is upwards of 1,300 feet below the level of the sea.
Among the party traveling with us, part of the way, are two
pleasant gentlemen by the name of N. C. and E. O. Hills,
from Illinois, who are of Cook's around the world party, and
who passed through Salt Lake last fall.

Wednesday morning, the 5th inst., we intend to leave
Jerusalem for the division of Samaria, en route for Damascus
and Beyrout, which we expect to reach on the 22nd, if all is
well.

Yours truly,

PAUL A. SCHETTLEB.

216 CORKESPONDENCE OF

THE DEAD SEA— A MONUMENT.

Though " dead," it is a living moiuiment.
'Tis peerless, archless, towerless, and, though
Devoid of every architectural
Embellishment, it justly claims to be
The prince of monuments in Palestine.

It is a monument of justice, and
Of righteous doom, of crime and wickedness,
A speechless, speaking monument of wrath
Divnie, poured out on guiltiness
Of dark abominations — monitor
Of warning to the generations past.
The present, and to all that are to come.
It stands where stood the "Cities of the Plain" —
"Where Sodom and Gomorrah, steeped in sin,
Were first devoured by fire, then swallowed up !

Its dense, saline, preserving properties
Are morally significant of the
Great purposes of God concerning sin—
"Whene'er iniquity attains its full.
To sweep it with destruction's besom, and
To ultimately purify the earth.

O'er clitfs precipitous — thro' winding trails —
Rocky acclivities and frightful steeps —
At times, in zig-zag course, to cut the heights
That otherwise were inaccessible,
O'erlooking dark abysses, gaping chasms,
And, sometimes, beautiful seq'uester'd dells,
"Where Nature, most successfully, has made
Attempts at wildly grand sublimit3^
"We went in search of this strange monument,
And found it nestled quietly beneath
Judea's mountains — on a sterile plain,
"Where solitude in death-like stillness reigns.

This Sea, when seen as we beheld it — 'neath
The cloudless noon-day sun, is beautiful.
The lucid rays appeared on crystalline
To fall, creating myriads of gems,

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 217

Which sparkling, glowed with dazzling brilliancy,
As if the Sea's smooth crest were overspread
With little, shining pearls most bounteously
To crown with gaiety the briny deep.

We gazed upon the Sea: 'Twas motionless.
As if in reverence for the Almighty power
Of Deity, whose awful mandate called
It into being.

In deep silence wrapped—
Without a sound of moving waters, or
The gentle murmur of a stirring wave,
All, all is silence, and this silence speaks
Far more impressively than uttered tones.

'Tis God's own monument, and proof against
The wreck of ages and the waste of time.
Jebusalem, March 3d, 1873. ELIZA R. SNOW.

< >■ ^ ■« »

LETTER LVIII

Land at Jaffa— Orange and Lemon Orchards— German Settlements in Pales-
tine—Valley of Ajalon — Ancient Battle Field — Church of the Holy
Sepulchre— Start for the Dead Sea— Famous Localities Mentioned in the
Scriptures— Novel Water Vessels— Bethlehem— Monastery of Mar Saba—
Brook Kedron — The River Jordan — Ruins of Jericho— Movm tain on
which the Saviour was Tempted— A Bedouin War Dance— Bethany-
Church of the Ascension— Backsheesh— Mosque of Omar — Saddle of
Mahomet-Mount Moriah— Garden of Eden— Sacred Cradle-Foundations
of Solomon's Temple— Visit to the Chief Rabbi— Ancient Parchments.

Camp near Jaffa Gate, Jerusalem,

March 4tli, 1873,
President Brigham YouNa:

Dear Brother:— We landed at Jaffa at about 8 a. m. of
the 23rd ult, after a pleasant twelve hours' ride by screw
steamer, the Vesta, over a smooth sea from Port Said, none
being sea-sick ; the sea, being smooth, was very favorable for
landing. We went directly from our landing to camp, where

218 CORRESPONDENCE OF

our tents were ready pitched, just outside the walls of the
small towu of Jaffa, and near a Mahommedan cemetery. The
Turkish officials only took time to look at our passports, and
the custom house officers examined but one trunk, which did
not happen to be ours. Mr. Alexander Howard, Mr. Cook's
dragoman, met us on board the ship. The orange and lemon
orchards at Jafla are the tinyst I have yet seen. The town is
a disgusting, dirty little jumble of narrow, crooked streets
and small buildings.

Mr. Hardegg, the American vice consul, treated us with
courtesy and introduced us to Dr. Hoffman, the President of
the Temple of Jaffa, as they term an association of abont600
Germans, who believe God is rebuilding the temple spiritu-
ally through them. They have purchased some land from
the Sultan, and showed us an Arabic deed of the purchase,
and a plot of it. Although they have been there but a short
time, they have proved to be successful farmers, as it has
rained sufficiently to enable thnm to raise wheat and barley,
but fruit and vegetables require irrigation. Several had re-
cently died of liver and bowel complaints, but they were now
healthy. The Germart settlements in Palestine are being in-
creased by some Germans who have lived in Russia, and are
leaving the country in consequence of the Russian Govern-
m'^nt's requiring them to ignore their own and learn the Rus-
sian language ; this will likely strengthen the German inter-
ests in Palestine.

We moved out of camp about 9 a. m. on Monday, the
24th ult.,and passed over the beautiful Plains of Sharon,
muoh of which is in cultivation, and very productive. After
lunching at the Martyrs' Tower, near Ramleh, we camped for
the night near the entrance to the Valley of Ajalon, where
there was good water, and which reminded us of Joshua's com-
manding the sun to stand still in the Valley of Ajalon. From
this camp, on the 25th, we at once entered the mountain region,
and nooned in the Valley of Elah, near the place where King

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 219

Saul encountered the armies of the Philistines, and where
David selected the live smooth stones for his contest with
Goliath. This valley is very narrow. From the Plains of
Sharon to Jerusalem the country is very rocky; if ever there
was any soil in this country, it seems to liave disappeared
from some cause. We camped near the Jaffa gate, on the
west side of Jerusalem, pretty well tired and lame from our
two days on horseback.

On the 26th we visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre,
and came to the conclnsion that the mother of Constantine
was very successful in grouping into so small a sparse so many
of the notable planes connected with the death and resurrec-
tion of the Saviour as to get them within the walls of one
building; it is certainly immaterial as to where the identical
square yard is, but the old monks have carried the matter of
identity farther than we feel to endorse.

Our mail from Liverpool reached us at our noon halt
at Eamleh. and some of the party received letters to January
21 ; I received one to January 12.

It rained all the night following our visit to the Holy Sep-
ulchre, but our tents protected us very well ; three of them
are circular wall tents, with fly and lining, provided with
iron bedsteads, camp stools, carpets, tables, wash-bowls, ex-
cellent bedding, &c. ; Sisters Snow and Little occupy one,
■ Brothers Snow, Carrington, Little and Jennings another, and
myself and Schettler the one in which our meals are served,
and over which flies the United States flag. They furnish us
three substantial meals a day, very well cooked and served.
There is also a circular tent in which the cooking is done on
a range heated with charcoal burned from the trimmings of
the olive trees.

February 27th, we struck tents about 8 a. m., and
started in the direction of the Dead Sea, by rather a zigzag
route, to enable us to visit certain points. We passed Jo-
seph's Well, Rachel's Tomb, and over rough and stony hills

220 COERESPONUENCE OF

to the Pools of Solomon, and followed the aqueduct to Beth-
lehem, where we visited the Church of the Nativity, saw the
star indicating the spot where the Saviour was born, the man-
ger in which he was cradled, the spot where Joseph was
warned to flee into Egypt, and several other notable points,
which are said to be of mathematical accuracy, all grouped
within the walls of a Greek church, which contains many rich
gifts and line ornaments. On nearing Bethlehem we met
large numbers of young women carrjdng pig skins full of
water ; the aqueduct is out of repair, and would require
a little work to fix it, but failing that little, the water
has to be carried some lialf a mile. The town is on a
side hill, and may contain 2,000 or 3,000 inhabitants.
The passages through it are narrow, crooked, steep, and
in many places difficult for horsemen to pass. Great
numbers of traders surrounded us at the church to sell us
trinkets manufactured from pearl, olive wood, and stones
from the Dead Sea. We lunched in what is called '* The
Shepherds' Field," and thought it might be the place where
the shepherds were informed of the birth of the Saviour.
We saw sheep on the mountains, and thought of King David,
barley growing, and of Kuth and Boaz. The buildings
around the place of nativity are divided into three portions, by
Greek, Latin and Armenian Christians. We visited the Mon-
astery of Mar Saba, and the men of our party were admitted,
our dragoman having procured a permit from the Greek Bish-
op of Jerusalem. An ignorant monk established this place
about 1,400 years ago, and since then, they say, no woman
has ever been permitted to enter its precincts, the monks
are civil. Mar Saba, the founder, died A. D. 532, aged 94.
The present convent is so massive as to appear almost im-
pregnable, and would perhaps be so to any arms but artillery.
They have an immense number of skulls, which they say be-
longed to their brethren who were killed by the Saracens, and
it is said there were 12,000 monks at one time connected with

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 221

this establishment. The Brook Kedron, when it has water,
runs by this convent. We passed some tents of Bedouins,
and camped near them, about two miles from Mar Saba.

On the 28th we ascended some hills, and descended
many, some of which were steep, rocky and sideling, visited
the Dead Sea, rode to the ford of Jordan, and lunched where
it is said Joshua and Israel crossed dry-shod, by a great mir-
acle, althougli the river was overflowing its banks, as was
usual in those days at harvest time ; where Elijah and Elisha
crossed in the same miraculous manner, and where John
baptized the Saviour and repentant Israel. It is asserted that
John began his preaching at Mar Saba, said to be the reason
why the convent is placed there. We rode across the Valley of
the Jordan, and came to the conclusion that a farm of several
thousand acres might be irrigated from the river. The ruins
of Jericho consist of a tower, foundations of an old wall, a
broken arch, and several large mounds. The site is covered
with a species of tliorn resembling that which grew on the
site of St. George. We camped at Elisha's Spring, so named
from his having healed the waters, which are now excellent.
Our dragoman showed us a mountain, the highest in siglit,
which he said was the one upon which Satan took the Saviour
and showed him all the kingdoms of the world; Antonio said
he was so informed, but he was not sure of it. About fifteen
Bedouins came to our camp and performed* a war dance, and
a sham fight, which would have done credit to Utah Indians
In Walker's palmy days, and sang, no doubt in elegant
Arabic, accompanied by instruments, "May the ladies' eyes
be like the moon." We paid the sheik eleven francs for the
performance.

On the 1st inst. we lunched at the ruins called Christ's
Hotel, and, passing Bethany, reached our former camp
ground about 2 p. m., our whole journey with slight excep-
tions being over high hills, rough rocks, and interesting
rocky desolation.

222 CORRESPONDENCE OF

March 2nd, Mr. Antonio, our dragoman, packed one of
our tents, &c. to tlie Mount of Olives, and pitched it a little
north of east from the Church of the Ascension, in which is
shown a print of the Saviour's foot in a solid rock, said to
have been made by him when he ascended. From this mount
one has the finest view of Jerusalem, and can also see the
site of Jericho, a portion of the course of the river Jordan,
the point where it enters the Dead Sea, and several reaches
of the sea. We returned to camp about noon, going and
returning by the Damascus and St. Stephen's gate, and the
Garden of Gethsemane.

Backsheesh! Everywhere we hear this word, from little
and great, sick and well, young and old ; the almost naked
man, who lies trembling in the Jaifa road, imploringly
reaches out his hands for backsheesh ; he is a professional,
and has 600 olive trees, and four or five orange orchards, and
spends two months in begging during the season of travelers
passing through. All the holy places are thronged with beg-
gars.

Our dragoman hired a Bedouin sheik to accompany us
to the Dead Sea, to keep the Bedouins from robbing and
plundering us, and notwithstanding he paid him, he called
on us to-day for more, and we deemed it best to give him an
additional 10 francs.

After getting the mail matter off in the afternoon of- the
28th ult. , Brother Carrington walked around Jerusalem out-
side the walls, and on the 1st inst. he walked through many
of its streets, and again examined it from different points out-
side, and after all he says he cannot imagine why King David
selected it for a site for his capital.

March 3rd, I, with tbe rest of the party, visited the
Mosque of Omar. They had no slippers large enough for
me, so I tied two pooket liandkerchiefs over my boots. We
employed a very e*15cient guide, and I subjoin from my jour-
nal the chief items of his comments. The Mosque of Omar

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 223

and the Mosque of El-aksa are witliin an enclosure of about
1,500 feet. The guide first showed us the north, or Paradise,
gate, then the east gate, in front of which he pointed out the
site of the judgment seat of Solomon, under a small dome
called the dome of ciiains; then through the east or David's
gate into the mosque, where he pointed out a green marble
slab in the floor, in which 19 nails from the cross had been
inserted, of which all but three and a half had disappeared,
and when they disappear the world will come to an end ; he
then pointed out the saddle in which Mahomet rode before
he went to heaven ; then a number of korans ; then a large
rock in the centre of the mosque on wliicli tradition says
Abraham offered up Isaac, and which is said to be the sum-
mit of Mount Moriah ; on one side of this rock he pointed to
a place from which Mahomet ascended to heaven, leaving the
impression of his feet in the rock, and to the finger prints in
the rock made by the angel Gabriel when he stayed the rock
from following the prophet; the Mahommedans had kissed
the footprint so much, that, to preserve it, they cut the piece
out and locked it up with seven hairs of his beard, which
are shown but once a year. He then took us into a cave
under the rock, and pointed us to a tongue of rock, on the
right hand side, w^hich said to Mahomet: " Peace be with you,
you prophet of God, "to which Mahomet replied: "Peace
be with you, you rock of God ; " he then pointed to an altar
in the cave where Solomon prayed, to one where Elijah
prayed, and to places where Abraham and David prayed ;
then to a cavity in the top caused by Mahomet's bumping his
head against it when rising from prayer ; then to a hole in the
centre of the top through which they threw down the ashes
of the sacrifices ; then to a round slab, in the centre of the
cave, over the mouth of a deep well, called the Well of Souls.
We then went outside the mosque and were shown a pnlpit
in the open air; near by is a fountain, now dry, used for
ablutions previous to praying. We then passed under an-

224 CORRESPONDENCE OF

other building, and were shown a portion of the old wall and
several columns of the horse gate ; from that to the Mosque
of El-aksa, in the same ennlosure, and were shown a small
black marble slab in the wall, brought from Mecca by Ma-
homet ; those who can walk some fiftdfen feet, blindfolded,
and touch the slab, are pure, the others not. We then went
into the mosque, built about A, D. 607, and were shown the
tomb of the two sons of Aaron, the footprints of Jesus in a
rock, a marble altar where Moses offered prayer, the pulpit
of Omar, made of cedar and ivory, said to be from Solomon's
Temple, then two sets of two pillars, each set near together —
those who can pass through are pure, the rest not ; then the
studio of Omar, surrounded with columns ; then a well down
which is the Garden of Eden , then a marble cradle in which
Jesus slept when twelve years old, at the time he was lost
from his parents. From that mosque, still in the same en-
closure, we went to the stables of Solomon, now underground;
then along the east wall, this wall being also the east wall of
the city, to a point where a stone pillar projects horizontally
some three feet beyond the outer face, and on which Mahomet
is to sit in judgment on the world. From there we went to
the site of the Golden gate, and had a fine view from one of
the towers of the wall. We then went outside the enclosure
to a Jewish wailing place, the only spot where the founda-
tions of the Temple of Solomon are visible, outside the en-
closure. Brother Schettler and I then called on the Kabbi of
the Portuguese congregation, to whom I presented a letter of
introduction from the Rabbi of San Francisco. He said the
letter was a good one, and that he liked the looks of my face.
I talked to Brother Schettler, he to a German Jew, and the
Jew to the Eabbi, as the latter could only speak in Hebrew,
Portuguese and Turkish. He offered me a cigar; I told him
I did not smoke. He said he was glad I had called on him,
and brought a glass of water and some preserves, also cups
of coffee for each of us. He remarked that the Jerusalem

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 225

Jews were very poor, but if they had control, they would
make great improvements. He said the Mosque of Omar
was on the site of Solomon's Temple, but not in the centre ;
also that no Jew goes inside the mosque inclosure. He believ-
ed the God of Hosts would some day redeem the land. He in-
troduced me to two of his friends, who showed us some ground
they had bought from the Turks, and were erecting upon it a
hospital and some dwellings for the poor Jews, with funds
from abroad. We then went to their synagogue, and found it a
plain, well-furnished building ; and from there passed through
the grain market, and through a jumble of narrow lanes,
arched over in places, and returned to our camp. The
Rabbi very courteously said he would call upon me in camp.

March 4th, at 10 a. m. , we received a visit from Abraham
Askenasi, chief Rabbi in Jerusalem ; we understand he is
selected by the Turkish Sultan, and has received some titu-
lar orders from him. They express a firm faith in the redemp-
tion of Israel and the return of the ten tribes. They say
there are no springs here now, but used to be in the days of
Israel's prosperity, and there will be again. Rain water is now
their only supply, and later in the season it sells at a farthing
a bottle. Europeans have been boring for water, but unsuc-
cessfully, it not being time for it. The interview was very pleas-
ant and interesting, and the Rabbi and three of their principal
men who accompanied him appeared to be men of intelligence.

We visited Mr. Shapira's collection of ancient parch-
ments, some of them very old, dug from beneath the ruins of
synagogues both in Palestine and Arabia; they possess much
interest. These writings are on various kinds and qualities
of parchment, one of which, found in the mountains of Moab,
discloses the idea that the Gods were male and female, and
religion older than the law of Moses.

Your brother in the ministry of the priesthood,

GEORGE A. SMITH.

226 CORRESPONDENCE OF

LETTER LIX

Suez — Red Sea — Port Said — On Board the "Vesta" — Anchor off Jaffa — Pass-
ports Demanded — Commencement of Tent Life — House of Simon, the
Tanner — Traveling to Jerusalem— Plains of Sharon — Valley of Ajalon —
Valley of Elah— Mount of Olives— Chvirch of the Holy Sepulchre — Tomb
of Rachel — Bethlehem— Dead Sea — Jordan — Jericho — Gilgal— Bethany —
Mosque of Omar.

Jerusalem, March 4tli, 1873.
Editor Woman's Exponent:

I wrote you last in Cairo, Egypt, from wlieuce we went
to Suez, where we paid our respects to the Red Sea, of an-
tique celebrity. I walked up and down its low bank, admired
its beautiful, calm surface, as it lay in sweet repose with
wave unstirred, and reflected deeply on the past of its inter-
esting history.

From Suez we went by rail back to Ismalia, which we
passed on our way from Cairo to Suez. From Ismalia we
went by steamer on the great Suez Canal, one of the modern
" wonders of the world, " to Port Said, a town built on artifi-
cial ground, made of material taken from the bed of the
canal. On the evening of the 22nd of February, by the aid
of boats, we went on board the Vesta, of the Austrian Lloyd
line of steamers, and early the next morning anchored off the
coast of Jaffa, which we safely reached in boats, although
this is considered the most dangerous of seaports. The Med-
iterranean washes the foundations of the buildings. We
ascended a few steps, and entering a narrow, muddy street.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 227

were met by a host of natives, clamoring for our satchels in
anticipation of a fee of backsheesh for relieving us from car-
rying them. Presently a smiling, corpulent biped, in turban
and gown, demanded our passports, at tlie same time giving
us a hint that he would compromise his demand for a fee, to
which our cashier readily assented, and thereby, also j)ro-
tected our baggage from being overhauled at the Custom
House.

We walked directly to our encampment, found our tents
in readiness to receive us, and were delighted with the many
conveniences provided by Mr. Howard, agent of Mr. Cook of
London, under whose arrangements we are traveling.

Thus, under as clear sunshine as had ever shone on the
ancient Joppa, and on as bright a morning as ever dawned
on the land of Palestine, we commenced tent life, and, to
render it more impressive, it was Sunday morning.

TJiere is nothing attractive in the appearance of the inte-
rior of tliis ancient town. It is said to contain about five
thousand inhabitants. As we saw them in crowds in the nar-
row, crooked streets, they are the representatives of low life
and degradation. We walked a long, roundabout distance
to visit the " house of one Simon, a tanner," situated " by
the sea side, " and were glad to return to our tents in the
suburbs, where we breathed the pure fresh air. The sur-
roundings of the ciiy are pleasant and richly decorated with
groves of the lemon and orange, whicli are watered from wells
dug in their vicinity. With me, the reflection that we really
were in Palestine, the land rendered dear to the Saints of
God by some of the most interesting associations of mortal
life — the history of the past in connection with the anti'^ipa-
tions of the future, which no other people than Latter-day
Saints can so fully appreciate — was tlie all-absorbing thought.

Early on Monday morning our camp equipage, which
consists of everything necessary for genteel boarding houses,
was packed, and, in monstrous bundles, lashed to the sides

228 COKEESPONDENCE OF

of donkeys, mules and horses ; our tents struck and packed ;
the laden animals and tlieir drivers started off; when we
mounted our horses, and, following our dragoman, went in
the same direction, leading to Jerusalem.

For a considerable distance after leaving the city, the
street, on both sides, is lined with the most luxuriant orange
groves we have seen, the limbs bending with the weight of
large clusters of the golden fruit, and protected by hedges of
cactus of an enormous size. We traveled till noon over the
beautiful Plains of Sharon, and stopped to lunch in the vicin-
ity of Ramleh, where the attendants who had our mid-day
refreshments in charge, consisting of light bread, cold boiled
mutton, chicken, a boiled egg for each, an orange each, and
bottles of water, had preceded us, and opened our lunch on
mattrasses provided for the purpose. The majority of the
attendants proceeded ahead in time to pitch tents, put up for
each an iron bedstead, (which, by the way, is rather a small
pattern for President Smitli, but very comfortable for the rest)
tables, seats, etc. , and get the camp stove and cooking appa-
ratus all into working order preparatory to evening dinner,
served with soups, meats, vegetables and pastries.

The country through which our afternoon ride led is
very uneven, some portions rocky and barren. We encamped
for the night on a lovely green, called the entrance to the
Valley of Ajalon, conspicuous in the history of Joshua.
Next day we rode through the Valley of Ajalon, up moun-
tain ridges, where we had delightful views of the Plains of
Sharon and the Mediterranean. The country is very pictur-
esque, the road zigzag, winding around and on the sides of
mountains — pass Kirjath-jearim, famous in the history of
David, lunch in the Valley of Elah, and, in the afternoon in
view of the Mount of Olives, which we leave at our left, and
arriving at the memorable city of the ancient Jewish nation,
the once favored of the Most High, the site of the Jerusalem
from which the " Word of the Lord" shall yet go forth, we

PALESTINE TOUKISTS. 229

found our tents in readiness and entered them with hearts of
thankfulness to God for His protecting care and blessings in
bringing us to this destination in safety.

But I must hasten to a close. The next day, the 26th,
we spent in and about Jerusalem, visited the Church of the
Holy Sepulchre ; had a fine view of the Garden of Gethse-
mane ; and the next morning struck tents, and spent tliree
days in visiting the Pools of Solomon, the Tomb of Rxr^hel,
Bethlehem, the Dead Sea, Jordan river, Gilgal, Jericho, Beth-
any, etc., — have not time for description. On the evening of
the 1st of March returned to this city, visited the Mount of
Olives and the Mosque of Omar. To-morrow we leave for

Syria.

ELIZA E. SNOW.

LETTER LX

One Day in Jerusalem— Rachel's. Tomb— Description of the Pools of Solo-
mon—Birthplace of the Saviour— Church of the Nativity— Grotto of the
Nativity— Altar of the Innocents— Studio of St. Jerome— Bedouin Arabs
—The Shepherds' Field— Convent of Mar Saba— Skulls of the Dead— An
Ancient Palm Tree— River Jordan— Rencontre with Bedouins— Descrip-
tion of the Dead Sea.

Jerusalem, March 5th, 1873.
Editor Deseret News:

After remaining one day at Jerusalem, according to pro-
gramme, Feb. 22 we struck our tents, resumed our saddles,
and started on an excursion of three days to Solomon's Pools,
Bethlehem, Convent of Mar Saba, the Dead Sea, the Jordan,
returning by the way of Bethany to Jerusalem.

About six miles' ride over a rocky, sterile country,

230 CORKESPONDENCE OF

brought us to Rachel's Tomb. It is a small, stone building,
forty feet long and twenty wide, and is respected by Chris-
tians, Jews and Mahommedans. Here we made a detour
over a miserable, rocky, tortuous path of some three miles,
to the Pools of Solomon. These pools consist of three im-
mense reservoirs, situated in a broad valley about three miles
from Bethlehem. They are partly excavated in a rocky bed,
and partly built of large hewn stones, and so arranged that
the bottom of the upper pool is higher than the top of the
next, and the same with the second and the third. The first
pool is three liundred and eightj^ feet in length, twenty-five
feet deeio, and about two hundred and forty feet broad. The
ser^ond is about one hundred and sixty feet from the upper
pool, four hundred and twenty-three feet in length, about two
hundred and forty in breadth, aurl thirty -nine in depth. The
lower one, nearly two liundred and fifty feet from the middle
pool, is five hundred and eightj^ feet in length, about two
hundred feet wide and fifty deep.

These pools receive their suj)plies from a subterraneous
fountain, some distance up the valley. The water from these
pools was formerly conveyed in an aqueduct by Bethlehem, in
a winding course, to Jerusalem ; but at present it only goes
to Bethlehem. These pools are supposed to have been built
by Solomon. From this point we continued our course over
rocky ridges, following a narrow, winding trail, till we reached
Bethlehem, the birthplace of our Saviour.

This city is pleasantly situated uj)on a mountain ridge,
the slopes of which are terraced with rows of fig and olive
trees, rising one above another in regular gradation. The
population of Bethlehem is about three thousand, principally
Christians. The Church of the Nativity is about the only
attraction. We entered it and followed a Avinding staircase
to the Grotto of the Nativitj^, which is brilliantly lighted with
about thirty silver lamps, kept continually burning. The
floor is laid with precious marbles. A white marble slab,

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 231

placed in the pavement, set around with jasper, in the centre
of which is a silver sun, is encircled with the following words :
Bic de Virgine Maria Jesus CJiristus Natus Est, i. e.
Here Jesus Christ was born of the Virgin Mary. Though we
had scruples respecting this being the identical spot it repre-
sented, still these words, in connection with the peculiar cir-
cumstances around, produced impressions never to be forgot-
ten. Near by was pointed out the place where the wise men
stood while presenting the Royal Infant myrrh and frankin-
cense. A little distant from this we were shown an altar
which is said to indicate the place where twenty thousand
children, murdered by Herod's order, were buried; now
called, on this account, "The Altar of the Innocents. " A
painting directly over it represents the massacre.

We were conducted into a retired, solitary niche of this
church, almost devoid of light, the identical Studio of St.
Jerome, where he spent most of his life in deep study, and
produced those works which gave celebrity to his name.

Before leaving Bethlehem it was considered policy to em-
ploy a Bedouin sheik, as security against these barbarians who
inhabit the mountains through which we were to pass. These
Bedouins chiefly live in tents, their flocks and herds consti-
tuting their principal means of support. Their dress is plain
and rather primitive— a flowing skirt or gown and a scanty
undergarment of coarse calico fastened around the waist by a
leather belt, ornamented with .rows of cartridges in brass
tubes ; to these are added a long-barrelled shotgun, with
flint-lock, slung over the shoulder, and knife stuck In the
belt. This wandering people cultivate the soil to some ex-
tent. In passing over the mountains of Judea we sometimes
saw enclosed patches of cultivated ground near their camps,
and many flocks of sheep and goats feeding in the glens and
upon the adjacent mountains. Tourists are not safe in trav-
eling through their country unless accompanied by some of
their own people.

232 OOEEESPONDENCE OF

We stopped to luncli in an olive orchard a short distance
from Bethlehem, an enclosure called " The Shepherds' Field,"
where the shepherds watched their flocks by night, when the
angels appeared to them announcing the grand and glorious
event.

From here our route was over a rocky, tortuous path
through the wilderness of Judea, scarcely a tree, shrub or
brush to be seen in any direction. The whole country is
barren and rockj^, herbage here and there sufficient only for
the sustenance of sheep and goats. The mountain scenery
was beautiful and sublime ; occasionally I stopped my horse
upon a lofty summit to gaze upon the surrounding scenery, a
vast wilderness of mountains in an endless variety of form
and size. Towards evening we arrived at the Convent of Mar
Saba, about ten miles from Bethlehem. We descended a
broad, paved staircase to a small platform in front of the
massive walls, in which was a small iron door. We were
closely watched by a singular looking friar, peeping through
a loophole overhead. Presenting our letter of introduction
from the Greek authorities at Jerusalem, which was scrupu-
lously examined, we were admitted and conducted through
the building, by the presiding friar, a tolerably good looking
and intelligent gentleman.

This convent, in some respects, is the most singular and
extraordinary building in Palestine. It is situated in the
midst of the wilderness where John the Baptist commenced
his ministry. It is built upon the side of a terrific ravine, and
consists of irregular massive walls, towers, chambers and
chapels, built upon narrow rock terraces and precipices, ad-
vantage being taken of natural caves and grottos in the rocks
and sides of the cliffs, insomuch that we could scarcely tell,
as we passed along the narrow galleries and flights of stairs,
what was natural and what artificial ; the ravine is several
hundred feet deep, the side of it covered from top to bottom
with these natural and artificial works, woven imperceptibly

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 233

one into another, forming a fortress of immense strength. It
is considered one of the richest convents in Palestine ; and
the strictest precaution and watching are observed to prevent
the wild Bedouins, who are constantly hovering in the vicin-
ity, from entering and carrying off its treasures. St. Saba,
the founder of this convent, was born in the year 439. He
was a man of remarkable sanctity, and held in such high
veneration that he drew thousands of followers to this deso-
late region. He had around him, at one time, fourteen thou-
sand people in this glen and its neighborhood. He died in
this solitary retreat at the aoe of ninety-four years. We
were shown his tomb in a small, neat chapel, also an apart-
ment containing a pile of skulls of monks who had been
martyred by the Persians, and a grotto where St. Saba spent
many years of his life, which, according to tradition, was
originally a lion's den. We saw a palm tree still flourishing,
said to have been planted nearly fourteen hundred years ago,
by St. Saba.

This convent belongs to the Greek Church. The monks
are required to observe the most rigid rules of abstinence and
fasting, never allowed to eat flesh, and strictly enjoined to
allow no woman to enter their presence or cross the threshold
of their establishment. A small, peaceful tribe of Arabs,
residing in adjacent glens, are employed by these friars to
convey their food and clothing from Jerusalem.

In a small, open square, they spread out upon the pave-
ment their little articles of traffic, consisting of beads, but-
tons, crosses, walking sticks, etc., inviting us to make invest-
ments. About seventy of these anchorites live togetlier in
tliis building, where everything around exhibits an aspect of
gloom and misery, as might be expected where nature is in-
terrupted by the exclusion of the cheering, enlivening and
happy influence of woman.

From Mar Saba we proceeded to our encampment, half a

234 COEEESPONDENCE OF

mile distant, in a beautiful dell, encircled by stupendous
mountains.

The following day, having nine hoars' ride before us, we
started before sunrise, our path extending over high, barren,
rocky ridges, through a wild, desolate region, skirting fear-
ful ravines, and passing along the brink of frightful chasms
and precipices, occasionally catching a glimpse of the Dead
Sea, through breaks in the distant cliffs ; at length we behold
the sacred Plains of Jordan, and there lies, in full view, the
Dead Sea, with its waters sparkling beneath the bright and
burning sun.

Having descended into the valley, while passing through
a jungle of tall cane and thorns, those of our party in front
suddenly encountered a band of armed Bedouins, whose
fierce looks and threatening attitude prompted them to turn
back very hurriedly. Antonio, our dragoman, immediately
rushed up from the rear to ascertain the cause of inter-
ruption ; on his approach, the Badouins concealed themselves
among the cane and bushes, except three, who stood their
ground defiantly. Antonio, somewhat excited, hurried the
company rapidly through the jungle, then galloped up to the
three Bedouins, and, aided by his men, forced their arms
from them, and took them as trophies of victory to the Dead
Sea. The sheik being in the rear, and not appearing till
the aflray was nearly over, some conjectured that he dictated
the ruse ; our subsequent acquaintance with him, however,
convinced us that this supposition did liim injustice.

The Dead Sea is the most remarkable body of water in
the world. It is ten miles wide, forty in length— lying in a
deep 'ravine, about thirteen hundred feet below the level of
the Mediterranean, enclosed by loftj^ clifis of bare, white and
grey limestone. We stopped on the shore near where the
Jordan empties. We noticed here quantities of drift wood
which had been accumulating for ages ; but little else ap-
peared except sterility, dreariness and death-like solitude.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 235

We were inlbrmed that nothing was to be found upon any of
its borders exhibiting life, except here and there where a
brackish fountain, or little streamlet from the mountain, pro-
duces a small thicket of cane, willow and tamarisk. I think
the water is more intensely salt than that of any other body
of water except Salt Lake. It contains twenty-six per cent,
of saline matter, which is sufficient to render it fatal to animal
life. It is as transparent as the water of the Mediterranean.
Its specific gravity is so great that the human body will not
sink, and eggs float when two-thirds immersed.

After spending some time in gratifying our curiosity and
in experimenting on the bathing qualities of its waters, we
left its dismal shores, steering across a flat, sterile plain, some
three miles distant, and stopped under some willows on the
banks of the sacred Jordan, near the place where it is sup-
posed the Israelites crossed, and where our Saviour was
baptized.

But I am reminded of the increasing length of my letter,
and although we are now in Jerusalem, intending to start in
the morning to visit northern Palestine and Syria, my corres-
pondence must leave us for the preseut in this Scriptural lo-
cality, with its impressively solemn associations.

LORENZO SNOW.

236 COERESPONDENCE OF

LETTER LXI.

Visit to the Jordan River — Sacred Localities — Singular Custom Among thq
Cliristians of Palestine — Fountain of Elisha — Valley of the Jordan —
Brook Cherith— Plains of Jericho — The Jericho of To-day — Entertained
by Bedouins — Bethany — Residence of Mary and Martha — Tomb of Laza-
rus— Garden of Gethsemane.

Palestine, Marcli 6tli, 1873.

Editoe Deseret News: •

Our visit to the River Jordan was interesting. As we
drank of its sweet and refreshing waters and washed in its
sacred stream, our thoughts and reflections recurred to the
days of childhood, when we were accustomed to peruse the
Holy Scriptures describing the important events which trans-
pired in this locality — the passage of the Israelites when the
channel became dry, as the priests, bearing upon their
shoulders the sacred ark, stepped into the flowing stream ;
the dividing of the waters by Elijah when he passed over the
dry bed and was taken up into heaven from the plain on the
opposite side by a whirlwind ; and Elisha, as he returned,
took the mantle of Elijah that fell from him, and smote the
waters, saying, "Where is the Lord God of Elijah? " thus
making the third time the Jordan was divided. But another
event of much deeper interest is associated with this place —
the baptism of our Saviour, referred to in the following lan-
guage— "John came preaching in the wilderness of Judea,
and Jesus came from Galilee to Jordan to be baptized of
him ;" and we were at or near the identical point where all

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 237

thess memorable events had taken place, standing upon the
bank, looking down into the glen, and bathing in the same
stream which had borne silent witness of these sublime occur-
rences.

This stream of Biblical history flows through a glen vary-
ing from two hundred to six hundred yards in width, and
from fifty to one hundred and fifty feet in depth below the
surrounding plain. The bottom of the glen is sprinkled here
and there with shrubs ; tamarisk, oleander and willows grow
on the banks of the stream, which are generally very steep.
The Jordan varies in width from eighty to one hundred and
fifty feet, with a depth often of ten or twelve feet. It flows
through the Sea of Galilee ; from the great fountain at Dan,
to where it empties into the Dead Sea, its distance in a direct
line is ninety-two miles. The Sea of Galilee is about six
hundred feet higher than the mouth of the Jordan, and sixty
miles distant. This river has a rapid current, making it dan-
gerous to bathers unacquainted with the stream. A gentle-
man from New York, who joined us at Jaffa, stated that on
his previous tour to Palestine, while bathing here, he was
suddenly carried down by the force of the current, and at tlie
last moment was saved by a dexterous and extraordinary
effort of his dragoman.

A singular custom prevails among the Christian churches
of Palestine — that of bathing in the Jordan every year at
Easter. They gather in multitudes, putting themselves under
the protection of a Turkish escort, headed by the Governor
of Jerusalem or his deputy, to protect them from the Be-
douin robbers. Starting from the "Holy City," traveling
on foot and upon mules, donkeys and camels, through the
wild, mountain regions of Judea, they cross the Plains of
Jordan, and on reaching its sacred stream rush indiscriminate-
ly into the flowing waters, young and old, men and women,
regardless of propriety or even decency. Through this cere-
mony they anticipate peculiar favors and heavenly blessings.

238 CORKESPONDENCE OF

Having suffioiently examined tlie Jordan and its sur-
roundings, we proceeded across the plains, making our
encampment at the Fountain of Elisha, near the ruins of
Jericho. This fountain consists of several small springs
which flow from beneath a large mound. These are the fam-
ous waters which were healed by Elislia, as spoken of in
Scripture. A stream flows from them of considerable size,
which waters a portion of the Plain of Jericho. The Valley of
the Jordan, in the direction we crossed, is about ten miles in
width, possessing a rich soil, and with proper tillage could
be made abundantly productive. A great portion of it, how-
ever, is a dreary, desolate region. Some parts of the valley
watered by the Brook Cherith and the stream issuing from
Elisha' s Fountain are covered with lotus trees interspersed
with willows and a prolific growth of weeds. Some distance
from these water courses, the trees and shrubbery are more
thinly scattered, which viewed in the distance resemble an
immense park, beautiful and picturesque. These plains
were formerly celebrated for^their richness and fertility — their
palm groves and luxuriant gardens, producing honey and
balm, reckoned the most fertile region of Judea. Now,
nothing of this kind remains. The Plains of Jericho were
formerly considered the garden of Palestine ; their aspect
now is strangely different, nothing is seen but small fields of
grain intermixed with thorny bush. A small village, occu-
pied by Arabs, is the only modern representative of the an-
cient Jericho. The houses are formed of stone walls, built
np loosely without mortar ; the roofs fiat and covered with
brush and gravel ; the yards and wretched patches of gar-
dens are enclosed by winrows constructed of the bows of
thorns ; the walls of the village, to protect its shiftless inhab-
itants from the raids of the Bedouins, are made of the same
material. In riding through this disgustingly filthy town, we
were lustily cheered by some dozen dirty, half-naked children,
collected for this purpose, but more particularly for back-

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 239

sheesh. Sheep, children, goats, women and nien, all indis-
criminately huddled together, and no doubt this people de-
served the profligate character given them, /. e. similar to
that of Sodom and Gomorrah.

In the evening, some twenty Bedouins appeared in our
camp, equipped and prepared to amuse us by their accom-
plishments in music and dancing, for the purx)ose of laying
claims to our backsheesh. We considered it policy to accept
the offer : accordingly we took seats before our tents. Tliey
posted themselves in a standing line immediately fronting us,
each having a short sword girded under a ragged mantle, all
scantily and shabbily clad, making rather a, primitive appear-
ance. They commenced their singular manoeuvres by dodg-
ing forward and back at the same moment, clapping their
hands, accompanied with rapid stepping of the feet and' a
strange chant, occasionally making a whizzing, thrilling
whoop, the like of which was never heard but from the throat
of a Bedouin, their chief standing in front, twirling and
flourishing a naked sword in the faces of his comrades, keep-
ing time with their fantastic motions, steppings, chantings,
and whoopings, occasionally turning suddenly, he made the
whole exceedingly impressive by flourishing the naked blade
close to our faces. The drift of their songs, we were told,
was highly flattering to the ladies, and complimentary to the
gentlemen — the former for their extraordinary beauty, the
latter for their anticipated liberality in bestowing backsheesh.
We took the hint, and recollecting several robberies and
murders which had occurred in the vicinity, we paid them
for this wretched entertainment, constantly adding more, un-
til we excited their admiration. We retired to our tents, re-
flecting on the strange difference between the present occu-
pants of this locality and those who inhabited it when
prophets converted bitter springs into sweet fountains, and
smote impetuous streams, piling up their waters on either
side and walked through on dry ground.

240 CORRESPONDENCE OF

The following morning, after breakfasting and drinking
the sweet waters of the Fountain of Elisha, we left the Plains
of Jericho, and ascended into a wild, rocky, mountainous
region, our path lying along the brink of the most sublime
ravine of Palestine. It is many hundred feet deep, where
but little else is seen than precipices of naked rocks, contain-
ing here and there a grotto seemingly inaccessible to anything
but eagles ; yet we were informed that these solitary caves
were once occupied by hermits, some of whom reduced their
bodies to a condition that four raisins per day supplied the
cravings of appetite. Down to an immense depth, we dis-
cerned a small stream tumbling over the rocks, which we
were told was the "Brook Cherith, that is before Jordan,"
where the prophet Elijah was fed by ravens, while the fam-
ine prevailed in Palestine.

We stopped for lunch under the shade of some crumb-
ling walls and pointed arches, where our generous sheik left
us, his services being no longer required. Before leaving, he
inscribed, in beautiful Arabic, his official name in my journal.
Mounting our horses, we soon reached Bethany, situated
about two miles from Jerusalem. Its location is pleasant and
romantic, being built on the eastern slope of Mount Olivet,
partially surrounded by steep hills, encircled by old, decayed
terraces, supporting a few scattered fig and olive trees. It is
a poor, miserable village, with narrow, filthy streets ; the
whole presenting a dismal appearance, yet a place of sacred
interest. Here dwelt the sisters, Mary and Martha, with
Lazarus their brother. Here Christ raised Lazarus from the
tomb and presented him alive to his weeping sisters. Here,
too, was the house of Simon the leper, in which Mary anoint-
ed Jesus with precious ointment and wiped his feet with her
hair. The sites of these events are still pointed out — the
house of Simon, that of Mary and Martha and the tomb of
Lazarus. The latter is a deep vault, partly excavated in the
rock, and partly lined with masonry. We stopped our

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 241

horses at the front of the entrance. This opens on a winding
staircase leading to a small chamber whence a few steps more
lead to a small vault in which the body is said to have been
placed. We made but a short stay in this village, much to
the disappointment of a crowd of dirty, ragged customers
who clamored fearfully for backsheesh.

As we approached Jerusalem, we descended a steep hill,
down a rocky, winding, shelvy path, past an immense ceme-
tery and the Garden of Gfethsemane, with its ornamental
trees, gravel walks, flowers and shrubbery, then around the
towering battlements of Jerusalem, and soon reachsd our
encampment, well pleased with our three days' excursion.

LOEENZO SNOW.

APOSTROPHE TO JERUSALEM.

Thou City with a cherished name,

A name in garlands drest,
Adorned with ancient sacred fame,

As city of the blest.
Thy rulers once, were mighty men,

Thy sons, renowned in war:
Thy smiles were sought and courted then

By people from afar.

A holy Temple, built as God

Directed it should be,
In which His glory shone abroad,

W^ith heav'nly majesty;
Was great adornment to thy place.

And lustre to thy name ;
With much of grandevir, wealth and grace.

To magnify thy fame.

242 CORKESPONDENCE OF

The Lord was with thee then, and deigned,

In speech well understood,
Thro' prophets, by His wisdom trained,

To counsel for thy good.
Attracted by illustrious fame,

As by a ruling star,
To study wisdom, people came

From other climes afar.

Thine then, a chosen favored land.
Was crown' d with plenty's smile ;

The mountains dropped down fatness, and
The hillsides wine and oil.

And thou wert like a golden gem
Upon a nation's brow.

Jerusalem, Jerusalem,

Alas! What art thou now?

Degraded, and on every hand.

From wisdom all estranged ;
Thy glory has departed, and

All, but thy name is changed !
From God withdrawn— by Him forsook—

To all intents depraved ;
Beneath the Turkish iron yoke.

Thou long hast been enslaved.

Divested of all heavenly rites.
Thy crest has fallen low ;

Around thy walls are squalid sights
Of beggary and woe ;

Thy streets are narrow, filthy lanes-
Offensive to the breath ;

Thy pools appear like sewer drains.
That breed disease and death.

No Temple now, that God designed-
No church by him approved-
No prophet to reveal His mind,

By inspiration moved ;
Where once, a royal banner spread,

The '* Crescent," waving now:
A sable wreath is on thy head,
And blood upon thy brow.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 243

The curse of God those changes wrought,

Throvigh crimes the Jews have done,
When they, His counsels set at naught •

And crucified His Son.
Since then, has retribution's liand

Put fortla its fearful skill,
Upon thy structures and thy land,

A destiny to fill.

Thy children — seed of Israel,

Of God's "peculiar care,"
On whom the weight of judgment fell.

Are scattered everywhere.
» * * * « * « *
Thy sun has not forever set —

God has a great design,
And will fulfil His purpose yet,

Concerning Palestine.

Th' appointed hour will surely come,

According to His will,
For God, with " Faithful Abraham,"

His cov'nants to fulfil.
Thyself redeemed from deep disgrace

Of filth and negligence,
These uncouth structures shall give place

To taste and elegance.

Thy walls shall be of preciovis stones —

Thy gates, of richest pearl ;
And on thy tow' ring battlements

Shall sacred Banners Furl ;
The seed of Jacob, then shall dwell

In bold security :
" More than thy former glory, shall •

Thy latter glory be."

E. R. SNOW
Palestine, March 6, 1873,

244 CORRESPONDENCE OF

LETTER LXII

Topography of Jerusalem— Hill of Evil Council— Mizpeh— Mount of Olives-
Valley of Jehoshaphat — Hinnom and Kedron— Absalom's Pillar— Siloam
— Mosque of Omar— Solomon's Temple— Hill of Zion — Tombs of the
Holy City— Mount Moriah— "Worship of Moloch— Scarcity of Water in
Jerusalem — Political and Financial Condition of the Jews — Place of
Ijamentation.

Palestine, March 7th, 1873.
Editor Deseret News :

I was much interested in the topographical appearance of
the country around about Jerusalem. The city is situated
on a broad mountainous ridge, between the two valleys of
Hinnom and Kedron. All around, from one to three miles
distant, are loftier summits, consisting of irregular broken
ridges, varying from fifty to two hundred feet above the
buildings of the city. They slope down, forming into small
plains, low valleys, and steep, rugged ravines, presenting a
panoramic view, beautiful and sublime. Along the western
horizon rilns a long range of hills, about the same height as
that on which the city stands.

On the south, some distance from the city, is the '* Hill of
Evil Council," where it is said Caiaphas had a house where
the priests and elders met to compass the destruction of
Jesus ; it is now covered with the ruins of some village.
Northwards, rising conspicuously in the distance, is '* Neby
Samuel," the ancient Mizpeh, which is distinguished by its
hio-h towers. On the east, about half a mile from the city
walls, the Mount of Olives rises from the Valley of Jehosha-

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 245

pliat, olive trees ornamenting its slopes, its summit crowned
by a mosque, with its liigh tapering minaret. Some portions
of these hills show little else but white rocks, projecting from
the soil, which is pJmost as white as the rocks themselves ;
others are covered with fields of grain, and fig and olive
orchards .

The plateaus and vales are generally cultivated, and
covered with herbage, and fig and olive trees. The ravines,
especially the Hinnom and Kedron, in places are so steep
and rugged that nothing is seen, scarcely, but a few olive
trees here and there, growing upon narrow terraces, built
upon the rocks and cliffs. The summit of the Mount of
Olives rises several hundred feet above the city, affording one
of the most commanding views of Jerusalem and its sur-
roundings.

I ascended this mountain, and obtained a favorable posi-
tion upon the highest point on its summit, spent a happy
hour in surveying the *' Holy City," its environs, and the
endless objects of rare and sacred interest, which formed the
magnificent scenery around. Through the olive trees along
the declivity could be discerned the white top of " Absalom's
Pillar," and the grey excavated clift's of Siloam; the high
walls of Jerusalem appeared with their square towers ; the
Mosque of Omar, with its magnificent dome in the centre, oc-
cupying the site of Araunah's threshing floor, and Solomon's
Temple, around it a grassy area, the whole encircled by olive
and cypress trees; the two domes and the strong square
tower of the Church of the Sepulchre, the massive towers of
the citadel standing upon the Hill of Zion ; in the distance a
long line of high hills, and low broken ranges of mountains,
with intervening vales, plateaus and wild ravines — the whole
forming a marvelous picture of varied beauty and magnificence.

It is astonishing, the number of cemeteries we observed
around about Jerusalem. It is truly Eaid, that the " tombs "
of the '' Holy City" are more numerous than its buildings.

246 CORRESPONDENCE OF

Nearly every hill and valley is studded more or less with
these monuments.

The slopes of Mount Moriali and Mount Olivet, and por-
tions of the deep valleys of Hinnom and Jehoshaphat form
exclusive burying places. In viewing the multitude of
tombs in the rocks and cliffs along tlie ravines of Hinnom,
we were forcibly reminded of the prophecy of Jeremiah —

" They shall bury in Tophet till there be no place.

" They have built the high places of Tophet, which is in
the valley of the son of Hinnom, to burn their sons and
daughters in the fire."

Here, at the bottom of the defile, amid its cliffs and rocky
steeps and gloomy scenes, the Israelites performed their wor-
ship of Moloch, alluded to by Jeremiah. These heathen rites
consisted in making a burnt offering of children in the fol-
lowing manner —

A statue of Moloch was erected of gigantic proportions,
consisting of brass, in the form of a man's body, with a
head like that of an ox. The interior was hollow, in which
was constructed a large furnace, by which means the whole
statue could easily be made red hot. The children to be sac-
rificed were then placed in its arms, while drums were beaten
to drown their cries. It is asserted, however strange it may
appear, that Solomon was the first who formally introduced
these fearful practices, though previous to this they had been
performed occasionally by the Israelites.

Seeing no lake, pond, stream, rivulet, nor scarcely a liv-
ing well or fountain , in or around Jerusalem, we naturally
inquired liow its inhabitants, especially its former dense pop-
ulation, were supplied with water. We were informed that
within the walls of Jerusalem living wells and fountains, at
present were comparatively unknown. Three small fountains,
in the lower part of the valley of Jehoshaphat, are said to be
the only waters that can be depended upon in the region
around.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 247

The city is cliiefiy suj^plied by means of its cisterns,
every house of any importance having one or more of these,
so arranged that the winter rains can be conducted into them,
by means of pipes and ducts, from the roofs and court yards.
With suitable care the water in them can be preserved
pure and sweet during the whole summer. Besides these
private cisterns, there are many public tanks, pools and
reservoirs in the city and suburbs. We saw the ruins of aque-
ducts, cisterns and immense tanks, which showed that in
former periods great attention and a vast amount of labor
had been employed to secure supplies of water.

In every quarter of the site of the ancient city numerous
reservoirs and cisterns are discovered — some of immense
capacity, excavated in solid rock ; others, formed upon the
fiat surface of the rock, built up around with stones, thickly
lined with cement. One of these subterranean reservoirs
was discovered eighty feet below the surrounding surface.
Subterranean aqueducts lead in various directions from the
cisterns, frequently formed in the solid rock, extending many
hundred yards. How these numerous cisterns were sup-
plied is still a great mystery. Some imagine it was effected
by conduits connecting with secret springs and fountains a
long distance beyond the city.

The Jewish rabbi, with whom we conversed, stated that
many springs and fountains, which formerly supplied the
inliabitants of Jerusalem, had long since ceased to flow, but
he expected the time was near when they would be revived
into living waters.

Jerusalem occupies but a small space — its walls are but a
little over two miles in circumference. Its population has
been variously estimated ; the following particulars, I believe
are tolerably authentic : Jews nine thousand, Mahommedans
five thousand, Christians about four thousand, making a
total of eighteen thousand.

The political and financial condition of the Jewish popu-

248 COERESPONDENCE OF

lation is not very flattering or prosperous. Tlie people are '
generally poor and oppressed, without means or opportunity
of improving their circumstances. They receive large contri-
butions from Europe and America, to aid in objects of charity,
and in making small improvements in the way of public
buildings.

In our interview with the chief rabbi, we learned that
foreign influence is operating, in a small measure, in their
favor toward softening the feelings and moderating the rules
of the Turkish authorities ; that they are allowed to purchase
and hold title to real estate ; but they have no money to ex-
pend in this direction, and if they had it would be discoura-
ging under the present system of taxation. All kinds of
property are heavily taxed, and all private and public enter-
prise is discouraged. A direct tax is levied on persons,
cattle, land and fruit trees ; tobacco and silk pay about forty-
two cents per pound, and all other articles eight per cent. ,
either in kind or money.

Near where the temple formerly stood, is a small paved
area where the Jews have been permitted, during many
centuries, to approach the precincts of the site of the Temple
of their forefathers, and lament and wail over the ruins, and
the desolation of their nation and sanctuary. In this retired
locality, each Friday, Jews of both sexes, of all ages, and
from every quarter of the world, are seen weeping, bathing
the stones with their tears, and lifting up their voices in loud
lamentation. No one can witness this scene without being
touched with feelings of the deepest sympathy, and the poet
may well say :

"Oh, weep for those that wept by Babel's stream,

Whose shrines are desolate, whose land a dream ;
"Weep for the harp of Judah's broken spell,

Mourn— where their God hath dwelt, the godless dwell!"

LORENZO SNOW.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 249

LETTER LXIII

Sacred Localities— The Stone of Unction— The Holy Sepulchre— The Chapel
of the Angel— Hill of Calvary— The Hole in which the Cross was Planted
—House of Pilate— "Behold the Man"— The True Cross— Opposition Gar-
dens of Gethsemane — Rivalry of Christian Sects— A Terrible Massacre-
Fighting Among Christian Zealots Prevented by Turkish Guards-
Christianity Despised by Jews and Mahommedans.

Palestine, March 8th, 1873.
Editor Deseret News :

Among the variety of objects which claimed our atten-
tion while at Jerusalem, was the Church of the Holy Sepul-
chre. It is an extensive building, with a host of sacred relics
and holy places, grouped together within a few yards of one
another ; among others, tlie place of the Saviour's crucifix-
ion ; the spot where his body was anointed for burial ;
where the Virgin stood, and witnessed the crucifixion ; the
place where his body was wrapped in linen clothes ; the rent
in the rock produced by the earthquake ; the place where the
soldiers cast lots for his raiment ; the column to which he was
bound when scourged ; the place where he was stripped by
the soldiers ; and the prison in which he was incarcerated
previous to being led to the place of crucifixion, &c.

In front of this building is a small area, occupied by a
sort of bazar for the sale of sacred relics, and used also as a
place of gathering for all classes of pilgrims. Within this
building, near the door, surrounded by a low railing, is the
Stone of Unction, which consists of a marble slab, on which

250 CORKESPONDENCE OF

the body of the Saviour is said to have been anointed for the
burial. This, we were told, however, is not the real stone,
as that was concealed underneath to prevent devout pilgrims
from carrying it off, or wearing it away by constant kissing,
as was the case with the bronze toe at St. Peter's, at Rome.
Several lamps are suspended over this sacred spot, and kept
constantly burning. We proceeded to the apartment appro-
priated to the Holy Sepulchre, twenty-six feet long, by
eighteen broad, ornamented by a dome. We entered, first a
small apartment, called the Chapel of the Angel, where it is
said he sat upon the stone which had been rolled away from
the door of the sepulchre. A portion of this stone stands
upon a low pedestal, though it is asserted that the real stone
was stolen by the Armenians, and is now exhibited in their
chapel. From this apartment, a low narrow door opens into
the vault of the sepulchre. It has a dome roof sustained
by short marble columns. The place where the Saviour's
body is said to have lain, is covered by a marble slab, con-
siderably worn at the edges by the continued kissing of pil-
grims. A large number of gold and silver lamps are sus-
pended over it, and kept constantly burning. It is fitted up
as an altar ; above it are costly gifts, thickly set with precious
stones, presented by different sovereigns of Europe.

A Greek priest was officiating when we entered, who
signified his recognition of our presence by scattering sweet
perfumery in great abundance over our persons. All pil-
grims were sprinkled in like manner, who were constantly
crowding in upon their hands and knees, kissing the cold
marble, sobbing and bathing it with their tears. This is said
to have been hewn in the rock, but we could see no rock —
the floor, tomb, and walls are all marble.

We ascended a flight of steps leading to an apartment or
small chapel, which is said to cover the Hill of Calvary.
Here was shown a rent or hole in the rock, as that in which
stood the cross while the Saviour hung upon it. Many other

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 251

places were shown, which it is needless to mention. After
leaving this building, we went to the House of Pilate, which
is said to occupy the same locality as that of the Roman
Governor ; we saw but little, however, to satisfy us of the
identit}^ of the Judgment Hall. We came to a building said
to cover the place where Jesus came forth wearing the purple
robe and crown of thorns, when Pilate exclaimed to the
people, "Behold the man." The place was pointed out
where the Saviour sank under the weight of the cross, when
Simon the Cyrenian was compelled to take it up, and bear it
after him ; also the spot where Veronica appeared with a nap-
kin to wipe the sweat off the Saviour's brow, when his portrait
was miraculously impressed upon it. This pretended relic
is preserved as one of the chief in the Basilica of St. Peter's
at Rome.

Considerable mystery, contradictions and disputations
exist in reference to the identity of these sacred relics and
holy places. In regard to those embraced within the Holy
Sepulchre, it is maintained by some intelligent writers that
none of them are genuine. Doubtless some of them, if not
many, are strangely misplaced.

Religious enthusiasts of opposite sects vied with each
other in searching out relics, and places to be reverenced and
adored by people of their 'respective persuasions, performing
pilgrimages to the Holy Land, their zeal, in some instances,
carrying them beyond the bounds of honesty, to practising
deceit and imposition. Many of these places had been re-
maining for centuries beneath the gradual accumulations of
debris, and could not be identified, either by history or
tradition; consequently, divine intimations were sought,
miraculous tests applied, and other methods resorted to in
order to establish their claims to genuineness.

Helena, the mother of Constantine, when about eighty
years old, in the fourth century, is said to have been divinely
impressed to proceed to Jerusalem and make sacred dis-

252 COREESPONDENCE OF

coveries — to search out the true cross, the holy sepulchre,
and other relics and localities connected with the crucifixion
of the Saviour. Accordingly, she went to Jerusalem and,
enlisting the services of the inhabitants, instituted a search
for the cross of the Saviour. Digging through the debris,
some twenty feet or more, at length three crosses were dis-
covered, together with the tablet, the nails and crown of
thorns. The tablet or inscription, " This is Jesus the King of
the Jews," being separated from the crosses, therefore the
true cross could not be identified. At last a remedy was dis-
covered. A lady of quality was confined upon her bed in
Jerusalem, of a fatal disease. The three crosses were success-
ively presented to her ; the two first without effect, but on
the approach of the third, she sprang from her dying couch
perfectly restored. Thus the identity of the true cross was
established. The pillar to which Christ is said to have been
bound when he was scourged, is carefully secured, that it may
not be stolen by pilgrims, who are only permitted to touch it
with a small, round stick, some four feet long or more, kept
for this purpose. This stick, after having one end put in con-
tact with the sacred relic, is then kissed by the pilgrims with
great fervor and veliemence. While present we witnessed
many instances of this fervent and striking devotion.

We visited the reputed Garden of Getlisemane which
belongs to the Latin Church. An oj)position one has recent-
ly been established by the Greek Church. As soon as the
trees have sufficiently grown, and other fixtures remained
long enough to impart an ancient and venerable appearance,
it will then be exliibited to devout pilgrims as the real genu-
ine Garden of Gethsemane.

The low, sunken condition of Christianity in Jerusalem,
is pretty clearly illustrated in the following description of
scenes enacted in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. On
Easter eve, each successive year, it is pretended that holy fire
descends from heaven, lighting up all the lamps in the Holy

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 253

Sepulclire. On this occasion multitudes of enthusiastic pil-
grims are assembled from every quarter of the globe, await-
ing with burning anxiety to participate in its benefits, and to
receive its holy influences. Just before the prescribed mo-
ment for this miraculous descent, the Greek Patriarch enters
the tomb, alone, and presently gives out through a hole in
tlie wall, the holy fire, to the eager and excited multitude.

In former years all the churches participated in tlie per-
formance of these rites, but latterly have desisted, one after
another, till, at present, this practice is continued only by
the Greek Church. At these extraordinary scenes, very
serious accidents frequently occur — old men and women
crushed and trampled to pieces, or perhaps quarrels arise be-
tween rival sects, resulting in shooting and stabbing one
another. In eighteen hundred and thirty-four, deplorable
and fearful scenes were enacted in that sacred buildino-
While the church was crowded with Christian pilgrims, a
contention arose, in which the Turkish guards engaged ; the
confusion soon became general, and directly grew into a
terrible battle. The scene of horror can not be described.
"Numbers were bayoneted or knocked down with the butt
ends of muskets, and their blood and brains scattered upon
the wall and pavement, each seeming intent to destroy
his fellow, or save himself from immediate destruc-
tion. Many were pulled down and trampled to death while
endeavoring to escape from the building. When order was
restored, the dead were lying in heaps around, and even
upon the Stone of Unction the bodies of the dead were piled
up, and in some places the wounded and dead were thrown
together promiscuously, one upon another, five feet high or
more.

The Turkish government is obliged to keep a guard
constantly watching at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, to
prevent these contentions and fightings between the rival
Christian churches.

254 COKEESPONDENCE OF

These contradictions, contentions, impositions by tlie
rival Christian sects, in Jerusalem, render the Christian re-
ligion a subject of scorn and contempt, both to the Jews and
Mahommedans, and it is certainly a matter of serious regret
that, in this enlightened age of Christianity, such things
should exist in this sacred locality where our holy religion
was established, and our Saviour martyred.

LOEENZO SNOW.

LETTER LXIV.

Robbers' Glen— Bethel— Ancient Shiloh— Jacob's Well— Joseph's Tomb-
Mount Gerizim— Ancient Shechem— Ancient Samaria— Tomb of John
the Baptist— Dothan— Plains of Esdraelon— Mountains of Gilboa— Spring
of Jezreel— Suite of Rooms of Joseph and Mary— Dining Room of the
Saviour and his Apostles— An Assyrian Chapel— Mount Carmel, Nain —
Church of the Annunciation— Assyrian Pilgrims.

Camp at Nazaketh, Galilee, Palestine,

March 9, 1873.
President Brigham Young:

Dear Brother: — We broke camp at Jerusalem on
the 5th inst., and rode over a rocky, barren and
almost desolate country, and camped in a ravine cal-
led the Robbers' Glen, near a spring termed the Rob-
bers' Pool. The country is generally too rocky, barren
and dry to produce anything. In the afternoon we passed
several large and thrifty fig orchards and some olive groves.
We passed Bethel at some distance on our right, and other
ancient sites, but saw nothing that we could date back to the
Jewish era, some of the ruins belonging to the Roman, some

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 255

to the Saracen, but more to the Crusader period ; tradition
alone indicates the location of ancient Jewish cities. On the
6th we passed the site of ancient Shiloh, where the land was
divided by lot among the children of Israel ; visited Jacob's
Well, and nearby what some claim to be the Tomb of Joseph,
which has been recently repaired by the British Consul. At
Jacob's Well we were shown Mounts Ebal and Gerizim ; on
the summit of the latter the Samaritans have a mosque in
which they annually offer sacrifices ; they are said to be the
oldest and smallest sect in the world. There are said to be
extensive ruins on the summit of Gerizim. We camped that
night near the city of Nablus (ancient Shechem); the day's
ride six hours. During the day the valleys were wider, bet-
ter cultivated, and more fruitful than nearer Jerusalem.

On the 7th it rained most of the day, and during our ride
we visited the site of ancient Samaria, for more than 200
years the capital of the ten tribes of Israel, and it endured a
seven years' siege by the Syrians, and was miraculously re-
lieved ; and afterwards was taken by the Assyrians, after
three years' siege, when they were carried away captive. We
were on the site during a rainstorm and saw ruins and
columns, apparently not dating beyond the time when Herod
built a palace there ; he also built a temple, and made other
considerable improvements. The Tomb of John the Baptist,
said to contain one set of his bones, dates back to the Knights
of St. John, and is the best preserved ruin on the site. The site
is not inferior to any I have seen in Palestine for a city, and
could be easily defended against ancient warfare. In the rain
we missed Dothan, where it is said Joseph was sold to the
Ishmaelites, and lunched on some rocks, and after an eight
hours' ride camped neaj: Jonin, a small collection of Arab
stone huts. Around it are lemon, orange, olive, dates, and fig
trees, looking thrifty, and indicating fertility in the soil, were
there sufficient rain.

At 7.30 a. m. we were in the saddle, and soon crossing

256 CORRESPONDENCE OF

the Plains of Esdraelon. Wliat the Bible calls a valley we
term a ravine ; and what is here termed a plain we call a
valley. We were shown the mountains of Gilboa in the dis-
tance, where Saul was defeated and slain. After riding five
hours, during which a short, sharp shower swept over us, we
lunched on a hill side, and in half an hour rode through and
camped on the east side of Nazareth. Brother T. Jennings
made a detour and visited the Spring of Jezreel, the place of
encounter between Gideon and the Midianites.

The last day's ride was through a country that could be
made very delightful with plenty of rain. Some portions of
the route from Jerusalem had 'what may be termed a rough
road, more of it a pack trail, and much of it a very rough
bridle path, and it is astonishing to us how the Arab horses
manage to keep on their feet. It is also astonishing to see
how thoroughly the prophecies in relation to the desolation
of this country have been literally fulfilled. A little barley
and wheat has been of late years raised in favorable spots
without irrigation ; wherever water can be obtained for ir-
rigating, the soil is very fertile. Limestone is the prevail-
ing rock from Jaffa to Nazareth, and it is certainly a stony
land.

To-day we visited what was once a synagogue, said to be
the one in which the Saviour preached, Luke iv, 16 ; it has
been newly plastered. We then went to a monastery, and
were shown what thej^ said were the parlor, bedroom and
kitchen of Joseph and Mary ; then visited the site of what is
claimed to have been the workshop of Joseph, a few stones
of the old foundation being pointed out, also a wardrobe and
cupboard said to have been made by Joseph ; then a chapel
containing a large limestone, appar^tly in its natural posi-
tion, on which it is said the Saviour and his disciples frequent-
ly partook of their meals, both before and after his resurrec-
tion. I tiien went to a Protestant church and heard Dr.
Zeller deliver a discourse in the Assyrian language to about

PALESTINE TOUEISTS. 257

60 persons. The singing and all the service was conducted
in that language, and the small audience appeared very
cleanly, intelligent and attentive.

After dinner we ascended the hill, back of Nazareth,
from which Mount Tabor is seen near by on the east, and be-
yond the mountains east of Jordan ; Mount Carmel and the
Mediterranean to the north-west, the hill of Nain to the south,
the village of Cana and much of the Plain of Esdraelon and
the country between the points mentioned. On the summit
of the hill were several matrons, maidens and children ; also
a few Arab men, who were around a tomb the3^ said was the
tomb of a prophet, but we could not learn his name or faith.
They all appeared to be very jolly, and one man offered to
dance for half a franc, which was paid to him, and then one
of the women danced for the same fee. Their mode of danc-
ing required but little exertion.

This town is said to contain from 3,000 to 5,000 inhabit-
ants, and the ways are very narrow, crooked, many of them
steep, and very filthy. Sister Snow attended the service in the
Greek church at 7 this morning, and Brother Schettler soon
after ; it is called the Church of the Annunciation. Late in
the afternoon Brother Carrington and I went to the Church of
the Annunciation, where we found a few persons attending
service in a room very beautifully adorned, much after the
manner of like churches in the Ionian Isles and Switzerland.
A monk placed wax candles in our hands and showed us
down several marble steps into a beautifully fitted up side-
room, where he pointed to a covered spring, claimed by the
Greeks to be the fountain where the angel Gabriel made the
announcement to the Virgin Mary, and drew up a pitcher of
water, of which we drank, finding it pure and good, as is all
the spring water of these limestone regions. There are two
other places here claimed bj^ different sects as the localities
of the Annunciation. A dime was the monk's fee for liis
services in showing us the fountain and drawing the water.

258 CORRESPONDENCE OF

Near us was a large encampment of Assyrian pilgrims, men,
women and children, who had come a forty days' journey on
their way to Jerusalem ; they also rested over the Sabbath.
Neither our dragoman or guide, nor any one we could find,
understood this language, so we could not converse with
them. A mother in their party died Saturday night, and the
funeral services seemed to partake both of the Moslem and
Christian form ; the child of the mother was the principal
waller.

Our camping places have frequently been near grave-
yards, and we have often seen bands of women, with white
outer robes, wailing and lamenting over the graves of their
relatives ; they are generally professionals, hired to do the
mourning, and are supposed to perform the service better
than amateurs.

GEOKGE A. SMITH.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 259

LETTER LXY.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre— Sacred Localinos — Religious Services on the
Mount of Olives — Dedication of the Land of "Palestine— Hospice of the
Knights' Templars — Trades Among the Arabs — Arab Cookery— Visit to
the Chief Rabbi — Valley of Hinnom — The Gibbeah of Savil— Bethel —
Robbers' Glen — Mosque of Shiloh — Jacob's Well— Mounts Ebal and
Gerizim— Sychar— A Gala Day — Dothan— Valley of Esdraelon— Mount
Tabor.

Nazareth, March 9th, 1873.
Editor Woman's Exponent:

I wrote you on the 4th ult. , the day before onr final
departure from Jerusalem, and so hastily that I said very
little of that great centre of attraction. In the estimation of
Eastern Christendom, the " Church of the Holy Sepulchre"
is the most sacred place on earth. Within its idolized pre-
cincts, a Turkish guard is constantly stationed to prevent
quarrels between the different sects of Christians — Roman
Catholics, Greek Catholics, Armenians, etc., who have sepa-
rate chapels in this extensive building, where they each per-
form their respective modes of worship. But, notwithstand-
ing this precautionary measure on the part of the govern-
ment, serious and bloody fights sometimes occur, which the
Mussulman very reasonably considers uncomplimentary to
the Christian religion.

We were shown tli rough the varied departments of the
edifice, our guide pointing out many "identical" places,
where important events of Bible history transpired ; and,
although our credulity as to specified localities failed of
being whetted to a point, we knew and felt tliat we were

260 COEEESPONDENCE OF

really where the ancient Jerusalem once stood, and conse-
quently in the vicinity where those scenes transpired, and it
did not matter essentially whether this or that, was the
''Stone of Unction," whether Ma,Ty stood on this or that side
of the sepulchre when Jesus manifested himself to her after
his resurrection, whether the one secured in the wall, which
we were permitted to touch with a rod, was the '' True Cross,"
etc., etc. We knew by incontrovertible testimony, that here
Jesus was crucified for the redemption of man, was resurrect-
ed, ascended, and, at no very distant day, '' will in like man-
ner descend."

On several occasions I took the liberty to question our
guide respecting his own faith in some items which he seem-
ed anxious to impress us with as "■ identical," and, to our
great amusement, he shook his head with an expressive
smile which he tried in vain to sui^press.

Sunday morning, March '2nd, President Smith made ar-
rangements with our dragoman, and had a tent, table, seats
and carpet taken up on the Mount of Olives, to which all the
brethren of the company and myself repaired on horseback.
After dismounting on the summit, and committing our ani-
mals to the care of servants, we visited the Church of Ascen-
sion, a small cathedral, said to stand on the spot from which
Jesus ascended. By this time the tent was prepared, which
we entered, and after an opening prayer by Brother Carring-
ton, we united in service in the order of the Hol}^ Priesthood,
President Smith leading in humble, fervent supplication,
dedicating the land of Palestine for the gathering of the
Jews and the rebuilding of Jerusalem, and returning heart-
felt thanks and gratitude to God for the fulness of the Gospel
and the blessings bestowed on the Latter-day Saints. Other
brethren led in turn, and we had a very interesting season ;
to me it seemed the crowning point of the whole tour, realiz-
ing as I did that we were worshipping on the summit of the
sacred Mount, once the frequent resort of the Prince of Life.

PALESTINE TOUKISTS. 261

The next day we took another stroll through the city,
visited the Mosqne of Omar, which, by Maliommedans, ranks
as the second of holy places ; they claim that it contains the
throne on which Mahomet will judge the world. It is the
best edilice in Jerusalem.

The fallen Hospice of the Knights Templars, near the
Church of the Holy Sepulchre, in its very dilapidated condi-
tion, affords shelter to many braziers, barbers and cornchand-
lers ; one room in the great ruin is used for a bazar, another
for a tannery, one for bathing, etc. Many common kinds of
trade are carried on in the streets. A thoroughfare is fre-
quently the 'only home of the Arab— there he eats, drinks,
buys and sells ; when he would rest, wash or pra}^, he retires
to the court of his mosque, which is the true Moslem's safe
resort, and from which no officer can drive him. There he is
sure to find water, for every mosque is supplied with at least
one fountain, where all must wash before prayers ; and when
he has finished his devotions, he may throw himself upon
the mats and rest. With a bundle of sticks, the cook
kindles a fire on a little cluster of stones, places over it a
kettle or pan, into which he puts a few olives, lentils, a
piece of fat and a handful of parched corn, stirs and simmers
them together until it is delicious to an Arab's palate. Lep-
ers, the personification of filth and wretchedness, were to be
seen in huddles on the street outside the city wall, beggars,
reminding us of the lazzaroni of Naples.

Although I felt satisfied with my visit to that world-re-
nowned city of sacredly interesting histories of the past, and
of bright prophetic anticipation for the future, and in spite
of the deep sense of the curse of God resting on the land
and on the people, my feelings during our stay had become
so pleasantly associated with the scenic view of the surround-
ings of this ancient site of time-honored memories, that I
realized a feeling of reluctance at bidding a final adieu.

On the 4tli President Smith and others called on the

262 CORRESPONDENCE OP

chief Jewish Rabbi, Abraham Askenasi, and in the evening
we had a very interesting interview with him and three
others, who called at our tents.

On the morning of the 5th, leaving our place of encamp-
ment in the Valley of Hinnom, we commenced an ascent,
rising to an elevation which commands a line view of the
city, Mount Olivet and the variegated surroundings. Here I
curbed my impatient steed while I treated my vision to a
lingering, farewell gaze, and looked for the last time, with
deep thoughts and with feelings of intense interest.

A little over two liours' ride brought us to Ischal, the
Gibbeali of Saul. From there we rode to Bethel, the place
of Jacob's vision, and, at night, after travelling through a
narrow, crooked ravine, in a trail as rough as jagged rocks
could make it, with mountains above, rising almost perpen-
dicularly to a great height, we encamped near the Robbers'
Glen, in a beautifully romantic spot, with a fountain of pure
water flowing out of the rocks.

On the 6th we passed the Mosque of Shiloh. The face
of the country here is picturesque. We stopped at Jacob's
Well, and by bringing into requisition every bit of cord and
rope attainable, succeeded in drawing water from the depth
of 75 feet. This well is near the entrance to the valley be-
tween Mount Ebal and Mount Gerizim. The site of the
ancient Sychar, is said to be a little to the north of, and in
sight of, this well, which is supposed to be where Jesus
asked the Samaritan woman for water. A short distance from
Sychar, is Nablous, the ancient Shechem, the city of Joshua
and the Judges, said to have been five hundred years older
than Jerusalem, and to have claimed the precedence. Nab-
lous is situated on the east slope of Mount Ebal, opposite
Mount Gerizim, on which Moses called the hosts of Israel
together, and said " Choose ye this day whom ye will serve."
We found it surrounded by olives and palms, and refreshed
by flowing streams. It was a gala day, and we saw multi-

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 263

tudes in holiday costumes, promenading, singing, dancing
and having a cheery time beneath the shade of rows of tall
trees, the sight of which seemed a special luxury. We en-
camped near the town, very much admiring the natural gran-
deur of the scenery, combined with the fertility and rich
productions of the soil, so strikingly in contrast with the
general sterility. The fig, which grows here abundantly, is
just putting forth leaves, signifying '' that summer is nigh."

The next morning we started in the rain, which continued
alternately during the forenoon, which whetted our apprecia-
tion of umbrellas. Our trail lay in a picturesque country,
although extremely rugged at times, apparently where
nothing but goats and reptiJes could go, and we were led to
wonder at the strange changes since the " iron chariots of
Solomon," were in use here. It truly seems that a series of
earthquakes, as well as of political revolutions are indis-
pensably necessary before roads, instead of trails, will be the
order in this judgment-stricken land. We stopped a short
time at the miserable looking village which occupies the site
of the ancient Samaria— passed the Mount Carmel range—
Dothan, the place where Joseph was sold by his brethren ;
and entered the beautiful Plain of Esdraelon, (Megiddo) the
great battlefield of ancient Israel. Nearly in the centre of
this delightful plain, is an elevation of perhaps two miles in
circumference at the foot, in regular conical shape, very
smooth, having the appearance of an enormous mound, and
sufficiently elevated on the centre to overlook the entire
plain. What an enviable location for a splendid mansion !
But it is minus all that kind of decoration— in this country,
with very few exceptions, the houses are grouped, some on
the tops and others on the slopes of rugged mountains.

We passed Mount Tabor on our right, and, after riding
over a rocky winding path, came in sight of the memorable
city of Nazareth, which, by straight line is sixty, by camel
trail eighty, miles from Jerusalem. It is impossible for me

264 CORRESPONDENCE OF

to describe my thoughts and feelings as we rode slowly on
its narrow, crooked and indescribably filthy streets, passing
crowds of people outside of dreary-looking dens, (from the
doors of many of which smoke was issuing, they being the
only apertures for its escape) holding out hands and asking
for backsheesh. I was forcibly reminded of the question of
Nathaniel, " Can any good come out of Nazareth ? " Nazar-
eth lives in the past : it was, for years, the earthly home of
our Saviour — this gives it immortality. More anon.

ELIZA E. SNOW.

LETTER LXVI

Farewell to Jerusalem— A Gala Day—Arab Agriculture— Nablous, Ancient
Shechem — Among Ferocious People— Avengers of blood— Cultivation of
the Olive— Samaria.

Syria, March 11th, 1873.

Editor Deseret News:

Leaving Jerusalem, we ascend by a steep, rocky, vend-
ing path to the commanding heights of Mount Scopus, where,
turning backward, we take a long, lingering look at the
" Holy City " — its noble domes, its high, tapering minarets,
and its surrounding mountains. We descend the mountain
into a naked, desolate region, our path lying over rocky pla-
teaus, through deep ravines, and over barren hills covered with
loose stones and sharp rocks. A small village is seen away
to our left on a lofty hill, flags and streamers flying, guns
firing, and groups of men and women gaily attired, in open

PALESTINE TOUEISTS. 265

air, rejoicing in the dance. We pass several towns perched
among the gray rocks, on the mountain slopes, or crowning
the summits of higli hills, also several sites of ancient towns
overspread with ruins. Sterility and barrenness form the
general features of the country. The trees are few, gnarled
and stunted, here and there sticking out from rents and holes
in the rocks, and broken, decayed terraces, and still clinging
to the cliffs.

The second day we found the hills and glens less rugged,
the country improving in general appearance, the soil more
fertile and better cultivated. We passed through many
winding valleys with landscape beautiful and picturesque,
the hills terraced from base to summit, supporting vines, lig
and olive trees, the scenery enlivened by wild flowers, bright
and gay, springing up from the green, luxuriant herbage.
The Arab is seen with his primitive plow, and diminutive
oxen, breaking wp his ground ; a Bedouin on his fleet steed,
with his brass-bound gun suspended over his shoulder, gal-
lo]3ing over the hills ; the Mussulman, with his wives and
children, scantily dressed, plucking the weeds from his patch
of grain ; peasants passing in their gay dresses of red and
green ; long strings of mules, donkeys and camels, winding
along the tortuous path ; the shepherd preceding his flock of
sbeep and goats, leading them along the mountain slopes, or
standing with them clustered around a favorite fountain.

We are now approaching Nablous, a modern town on
the site of the ancient Shechem, a name familiar to the bibli-
cal reader. Clambering up a steep, rocky path, we arrive at
the crest of a lofty ridge, where we enjoy a lovely, romantic
scene — the finest and most pleasing since leaving J erusalem.
Before us lies an undulating plain, stretching far away north-
ward, encircled by picturesque hills, no object on its surface
to break the view ; around its borders are small groves of
orange trees and here and there clumps and rows of olives,
giving it the appearance of a European park. The villages

266 COEEESPONDENCE OF

here as elsewhere, instead of being located on the plain, are,
for security, built on 'the crest of steep hills, or high up on
the acclivities.

The people we now meet appear different in character,
manners and dress from those occupying the country we have
passed. They look daring and ferocious, ready to commence
hostilities on the slightest provocation. Armed cap-a-pie
with a long flint-lock shot gun, a huge dagger sticking in
front of their girdle, pistols, and a large knobheaded club,
they seem pleased in displaying these arms, and, judging
from their sturdy, athletic appearance, I have no doubt they
could employ them to great advantage. We frequently met
these fellows armed in this manner, driving along a miserable
looking, half-starved donkey, loaded probably with all he
possessed, except his arms and shabby clothing. There is,
however, a cause for this oddity. A bloody feud, most likely,
exists between his family and some other family, which was
commenced hundreds of years ago by their ancestors. Some
person was killed, and one of that person's family killed an-
other in return ; then another was killed in revenge, and thus
it has continued until the present. Every member of the
family is in danger, and lives in dread — any moment the
avenger of blood may pounce upon him. Therefore he is
armed at all hours, and in all places — when leading his flocks
on the mountain, his donkey on the road, or when plowing
in the field, oft-times having to flee from house and home,
and abide with strangers. This fearful state of things arises
from the following law of the Koran, " O, true believers, the
law of retaliation is ordained to you for the slain — the free
shall die for the free." I suppose Mahomet drew this from
the Old Testament, but failed to make the corresponding
merciful arrangements — " cities of refuge."

The second night we camped in a lovely spot, in the
suburbs of Nablous. This city, known in Bible history
as^Shechem, possesses the most charming and picturesque

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 267

scenery of any site in Palestine. It is situated along the base
of Mount Gerizim, on the south side of a verdant valley,
sparkling with streams and fountains, and decorated with
olive trees, gardens and fruit orchards. Tlie cliffs, hills and
mountain slopes, supporting terraces, rising one above an-
other in regular gradation, growing narrow strips of waving
grain, together with tig, olive and orange trees. The valley
is clothed in the richest foliage and vegetation. Viewed from
different points, the city, with its white -domed buildings, and
its mosques, and. towering minarets, presents a charming pic-
ture. Nablous contains eight thousand inhabitants, only five
hundred of whom are Christians. The buildings are con-
structed chiefly of stone; in style and general appearance
they are similar to those in Jerusalem. The streets, as in all
other towns in Palestine, are narrow, crooked and extremely
filthy. The houses project over and cover them, being sup-
ported on arches. The inhabitants have the reputation of
mistreating strangers, especially ladies. Prompted by curi-
osity, no doubt, they visited our tents by multitudes. In
turn, we perambulated their filthy city, experiencing no ill-
treatment. In Shechem, as we learn from sacred history,
Simeon and Levi avenged the dishonor of their sister Dinah,
by murdering the whole population of the city, having first
decoyed them into complete disability of defending them-
selves. It was the first spot where Abraham pitched his tent
in Canaan — "Place of Shechem at the oak of Moreh." Ja-
cob also, on his return from Mesopotamia, pitched his tent in
this then pastoral region. This is the place where Jacob sent
his favorite son, Joseph, to look after his brethren. *' A cer-
tain man found him wandering in the field " and directed
Mm to Dothan, about twelve miles north, where they had
removed. Here Rehoboam was proclaimed king over all
Israel ; and not long afterwards the ten tribes revolted, and
made Jeroboam, the son of Nebat, king, and establislied
Shechem as the capital.

268 CORRESPONDENCE OF

Soap, cotton and oil are tlie chief productions at Nablous.
The olive is extensively cultivated, and is seen around every
village and hamlet. Clothed in mid-winter, with their soft,
grey foliage, they always impart beauty and add an air of
cheerfulness to the landscape. The olive is slow in its growth,
requiring from twelve to fifteen years before it begins to pay
the expense of cultivation. It is long-lived — one thousand
years and upwards. The older ones have a remarkably ven-
erable appearance, with their great gnarled and furrowed
stems, especially when representing the last stages of life's
decline. Usually the fruit ripens in November and December,
and is beaten off with long sticks, and the use of ladders,
and gathered by women and children, who carry it away in
baskets on their heads to the press, where the oil is extracted
by an apparatus quite rude and primitive. The berries are
placed in a round cavity excavated in a rock, when a huge
stone is rolled over them by oxen, or manual force. The
pulp is bound up in mats, placed under the press, which is
forced down by a screw or heavy beam. The liquor is par-
tially heated, the oil is then skimmed, and put into skins, or
earthern jars.

From Nablous (Shechem) to Samaria, our next principal
point, we pass through a lovely country — over terraced hills,
and winding through partially cultivated valleys, with fields
of grain two-thirds grown, and orchards of figs and apricots.
Small villages are seen crowning summits of distant hills o
perched high up their rocky sides, seldom appearing in the
rich vales below.

Samaria contains about sixty buildings, with four hun-
dred inhabitants. It occupies a narrow, rocky plateau, mid-
way up the side of the steep, lofty hill. In the midst of a
gentle shower, we rode up to the village through a narrow,
winding path, climbing over large boulders, and forked, slop-
ing, conical, shelving and slippery rocks. Halting a few
minutes we then ascended to the summit, on which is an open

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 269

area, formerly surrounded by columns, only a few of which
are now standing. In descending the mountain , we reached
a place on its slope, covered with magnificent ruins — a quan-
tity of columns, some standing, others broken and lying in
fragments over the ground. Sixty or more of these pillars,
two feet in diameter, eighteen in height, are standing without
their capitals, deeply sunk in the ground. It is supposed
that these columns were designed to decorate the principal
street of the ancient city. Large quantities of hewn stone are
strewed around, over the plowed fields and the orchards in
the valley below, and piled into the terraces which partially
encircle the hill.

In viewing these immense ruins, I was reminded of the
fearful prediction of Micah : "I will make Samaria as an
heap of the field, and as plantings of a vineyard, and I will
pour down the stones thereof into the valley, and I will dis-
cover the foundations thereof."

LOEENZO SNOW.

270 COREESPONDENCE OF

LETTER LXVII.

A Famous Scripture Locality— A Village of Robbers— The "Fountain of
Gardens "—The Battle Field of Palestine— Mounts Tabor and Hermon
— Nazareth— The Holy Grotto — Workshop of Joseph — Table of Christ —
Arab Ploughs— Cana of Galilee— An Arab School— Sea of Galilee —
Tiberias— Bedouin Spinsters — Residence of Mary Magdalene— Serenaded
by Bedouins — Backsheesh.

Syeia, March 15th, 1873.
Editor Deseret News :

Leaving Samaria, we wind up a rocky acclivity and pass
through an avenue of olive trees, to a smart looking village,
located on a stony ridge. Our road now lies over low hills
covered with dwarf oak and hawthorn, through rich valleys
abounding in wheat fields, fig orchards and groves of venera-
ble olive trees, with gnarled and furrowed trunks, clothed
with gray foliage, and along over hills whose terraced sides
are covered with vineyards. Several villages are seen dotting
the hillsides or crowning their lofty summits. We passed
through some low, winding ravines. These are the passes so
often defended by the " ten thousands of Ephraim and thou-
sands of Manasseh" against their northern invaders. In the
midst of these hills, the famous Gideon, the hero of Manas-
seh, was nurtured and reared; through these passes he
marched at the head of his little army against the Midianites,
who were lying in multitudes in the Valley of Jezreel.

We passed a large village surrounded by olive groves.
Its inhabitants have a bad reputation. It is said that they

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 271

will not miss an opportunity of plundering the solitary trav-
eler when found in the neighboring glens.

Friday, 7th, we camped at Jenin, interpreted '* fountain
of gardens." It contains three thousand inhabitants, chiefly
Mahommedans. The town is charmingly situated, command-
ing a view of the great Plain of Esdraelon. The low hills
behind are overspread by shrubbery, with here and there
patches of olives. Around the town the landscape is clothed
in rich verdure, variegated with flowers of brilliant colors ;
also fine gardens encircled by hedges of cactus of immense
growth, and palm trees here and there raising their graceful
heads. The Plain of Esdraelon, the famous battlefield of
Palestine, stretches far away, from fifteen to twenty miles to
the base of the mountains, below Nazareth, on one aide en-
closed by the hills of Galilee, on the other by the mountains
of Samaria, the whole forming one vast, unbroken expanse of
verdure. In all this plain, not a village or hamlet appears,
though they are seen dotting the slopes of the surrounding
hills, or perched on their rocky summits. Long strings of
Bedouin tents are here and there strung along its borders,
and numerous flocks and herds are fattening on its luxuriant
herbage.

Several fierce looking Arabs visited our tents in the even-
ing, whose appearance failed to impress us favorably respect-
ing their future intentions ; our guards occasionally fired a
gun during the night, indicating their presence and prepara-
tion for defense. The following morning we passed over the
Plain of Esdraelon. We now have a view of Mount Tabor,
dotted with oaks from base to summit, and Mount Hermon,
panoplied in snow. After descending a steep, rocky ridge,
we wind through a dreary glen, opening into the valley of
Nazareth. We rode through the crooked, filthy and narrow
streets of the city of Nazareth, and pitched our tents near its
borders. The town is located in narrow ravines, and on the
narrow, rocky declivities by which they are separated. A

272 COREESPONDENCE OF

little valley opens out before it, about one mile long and one
half mile in breadth, engirdled by high, bleak hills. The
valley is divided into small, plowed fields, in the centre of
which are patches of gardens, enclosed by hedges of cactus.

The Franciscan convent is the most prominent structure,
then a mosque with its white tapering minaret looms up from
among the low buildings. The city contains four thousand
inhabitants, the larger portion of whom are Christians.

Nazareth is remarkable for being the home of the
Saviour's boyhood — the scenes of his private life. Many ob-
jects and places are shown, associated with the Virgin and the
Saviour — the "Holy Grotto," where the angel announced to
Mary that she was favored of the Highest : the " Worksliop of
Joseph," in which Jesus worked ; the " Table of Christ," &c. ,
but having little faith in their idetitity, I waive description.

We remained over Sunday, and next morning pursued
our way, leading over some fine valleys under moderate cul-
tivation. Arabs were plowing the fields. Their plows, and
mode of using them, are remarkably simple and primitive.
This instrument consists of a crooked stick, four inches in
diameter, shod with iron six inches wide, tapered to a point,
a wooden peg through the top forming the handle. In the
middle of this stick, the end of a small round pole is fast-
ened, the opposite end is attached to the yoke by strings or
ropes. The yol^e is formed by a short, straight pole, with
bows partly of wood and partly of rojjes. It is placed upon
the necks of two dwarfed, wretched oxen or cows, the size of
our ordinary yearlings. In one hand the Arab holds the
handle of his plow, in the other flourishes a long stick, by
virtue of which the machine is put in motion, and its velocity
regulated. It works into the soil about four inches, breaking
the same in breadth. The land, under this mode of cultiva-
tion, will yield, per acre, probably six or eight bushels. Un-
der proper management, it would produce five times the
amount .

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 273

We stopped at an Arab village, known in Bible history
as Cana of Galilee, consisting of a few low, dirty dwellings.
We dismounted and entered a small, miserable structure,
called a chapel, containing some old stone pots, which once,
as we were informed, contained the water which Jesus con-
verted into wine, at the wedding. Withdrawing from this
place of relics, I entered a hall some fifteen feet in length by
thirteen in breadth, divested of door and windows, occupied
by Arab children as a schoolroom. Some thirty or forty boys,
seated in rows upon the ground, each with a small tablet,
covered with characters, were chantingtheir lessons very loud
and with remarkable energy. This chanting and repeating
together is the usual method adopted by the Arab teacher in
instructing "the young idea how to shoot," it being main-
tained that it fixes more indelibly the principle in the mem-
ory. However this may be, I am certain the chanting scene
was strikingly impressed on my memory, and the picturesque
appearance and noisy characteristics of an Arab school
cannot be forgotten.

At length we reach the summit of a lofty mountain and
look abroad on the vale of Gennesareth, and down one thou-
sand feet upon the Sea of Galilee, whose surging waves were
once stilled, and the howling tempest silenced by the voice of
the Saviour. Descending the steep declivity, we spread our
tents among some old ruins, rent walls, and crumbling towers,
directly upon the shore. The effects of the great earthquake
of 1837 are everywhere distinctly visible.

The Sea of Galilee is about fifteen miles long, from six to
seven broad, though, owing to the remarkable clearness of
the atmosphere, it looks much smaller. It occupies the
bottom of a deep basin, the sides of which shelve down with
gradual slopes from the summits of the surrounding hills.
On one side these hills or mountains rise nearly two thousand
feet, intersected by deep ravines. The Jordan flows into it
from the east, and passes out at the south. It is about seven

274 CORRESPONDENCE OF

hundred feet above the level of the Dead Sea, into which the
Jordan empties, after accomplishing a remarkably serpentine
tour through the valley which bears its name.

We are tented in the suburbs of Tiberias, which is a small
village of two thousand inhabitants. It numbers eight hun-
dred Jews, poor, sickly-looking and friendless, an appear-
ance, unfortunately, too applicable to the generality of this
people whom we saw in the towns and cities of Palestine.
They are permitted to occupy a small area in the middle of
the town, where they have erected small synagogues, and
established some common schools.

Close upon the shore is a Latin convent, which stands on
the spot, as we were informed, where the scene of the mirac-
ulous draught of fishes occurred. Tiberias was built by
Herod, the murderer of John the Baptist, in honor of the
Roman Emperor, and was the capital of the province of
Galilee.

The next morning we moved camp up the lake six miles.
President Smith, Professor Carrington and T. W. Jennings,
with two American gentlemen, taking boat and making the
excursion by water ; tlie remainder of the company, with
myself, mounted horses and followed the shore. Our ride was
interesting and cheering, under the influence of a smiling
sun, and in an atmosphere of Egyptian balminess, far below
the cold breezes of the hills of Galilee. We overtook some
Bedouin ladies, each perched on the hump of a camel, travel-
ing in the same direction, chanting their native songs very
plaintively. Our young Arab guide, with becoming suavity,
engaged them in an interesting conversation, the general
features of which he afterwards explained. They informed
him that they had no husbands, which circumstance they
reckoned a great misfortune. This was attributable, they
said, to one cause only. The laws and customs of their
country permitted the father to dispose of his daughter for
any stipulated amount, the price varying from five hundred

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 275

to eight thousand francs, according to the beauty and ac-
complishments of the lady in question ; that they could
readily procure husbands, but the young gentlemen who
fancied them, and whom they wished to favor, were not pre-
pared to meet the exorbitant demands of their fathers ; con-
sequently they were not married, which they regretted
exceedingly. It was the custom of the ladies, they said, to
marry early, at the age of twelve or thirteen years ; that they
themselves were rising of twenty, a circumstance which made
them uncomfortable and very melancholy.

We passed a cluster of low houses, resembling hovels
more than human dwellings. This was formerly the resi-
dence of Mary Magdalene, wliom the Saviour delivered from
the power of demons. Our path now lay along the gravelly
shore of the sea, and through tangled thickets of thorns,
cane and tall nettles, occasionally passing clumps of olean-
ders, adorned with blushing roses, peeping out beneath their
green luxuriant foliage. At length we reached our camping
ground, a romantic spot — a pretty patch of green sward,
formed of clover and other grasses, near a remarkably large
fountain, whose sparkling waters burst forth beneath a large
grey mountain and swept down into the sea, some yards
below, A camp of wild Bedouins, on our approach, com-
prehending our wishes, generously consented to withdraw to
a distant locality. Before leaving, however, they proposed to
honor us with a serenade. Their instruments were strikingly
rude and, as we presently learned, better adapted to loud,
shrill noise than to musical harmony. Our animals were not
excitable under ordinary circumstances, but this was a little
too much for their nerves— looking towards the tempestuous
sounds they commenced snorting, prancing, breaking away,
and rushing off in various directions. In this state of things,
we saw, that, however flattering the serenade might be to our
vanity, it was a drawback to our progress as tourists ; hence
we intimated to our Bedouin admirers that though we ap-

276 CORRESPONDENCE OF

predated the honors they were laboring to bestow, should it
suit tlieir convenience to terminate at once the peculiar enter-
tainment we should consider ourselves eminently favored.
They closed the amusement witli a modest suggestion that
some backsheesh was due for their services, which having
paid, our muleteers hurried off in search of the animals.

LORENZO SNOW.

LETTER LXVIII.

Services in a Greek Church — Personal Cleanliness and Mean Dwellings of
Turks and Arabs — Nazareth — Armenian Pilgrims — Hills and Plains of
Galilee — Arab Villages— Communism— Novel Method of Churning —
From Alexandria to Cairo— Sea of Galilee.

Damascus, Syria, March 17th, 1873.

Editor Woman's Exponent :

In my last I left you at Nazareth. Our encampment
was near a Greek church, and the next day being Sunday,
soon after sunrise, I strolled in the direction, and seeing the
people gathering, went in where a large congregation appear-
ed devoutly worshipping. Unlike the Roman, the Greek
Catholics perform their services in the language understood
by the people, modern Greek, and the difference in effect is
strikingly visible in the countenances of the congregation.
After listening some time to services, to me unintelligible —
witnessing the usual ceremonies of kissing the picture of
Jesus and his mother — sprinkling with *' holy water" and
kneeling and bowing before the cross ; and seeing no one but
myself in foreign costume,' lest my presence should be intru-

PALESTINE TOUKISTS. 277

sive, I withdrew, feeling thankful to God for the gifts and
ordinances of the Everlasting Gospel— particularly that of
baptism for the dead.

In my preceding letter I mentioned the dirty streets and
dreary houses of this city ; and while in the church, I notic-
ed, as I have frequently done, what seems to be a general
characteristic, ^. e., the appearance of personal cleanliness,
being in contrast witli the intolerably negligent and uncom-
fortable-looking houses the people occupy ; this with both
Turks and Arabs, but particularly the latter. I have, in a
great many instances, seen men dressed in white from the
waist to the ankle ; and women from the top of the head to
the feet (and it was really white) come out of the most untidy
and forbidding-appearing dwellings ; huts made of mud with
a small opening for entrance, and entirely without windows
— groups of women in white seat themselves on the ground
which they do as readily as we sit on chairs and sofas, and
yet look as clean as though the soil of the earth was not
adhesive.

But a spectacle of a difierent kind was presented before
me while at Nazareth. A short distance from our encamp-
ment, were a large company of Armenians on pilgrimage to
Jerusalem, some of them partially tented— others grouped
in squads under the precarious shelter of projecting rocks at
the foot of a ledge that lined the mountain side.

They were forty days from Armenia ; their appearance
was deplorable. Prompted both by sympathy and curiosity,
I walked into their midst and the closer view increased my
heart-ache for poor degraded humanity ! Old, middle-aged,
and young, down to the little infant, miserably clad, and
truly the personification of filth. The sight was a sad picture,
for the expression of their faces corresponded with their out-
ward condition. Their cooking utensils were few and
simple, and what I saw of their food seemed less comfortable
and sufficient than their clothing. But, whatever might have

27.8 COERESPONDENCE OF

been the difference in circumstances and motives, these poor
Armenians held one object in common with ns — we were
coming from, they were going to, Jerusalem.

Monday morning, the 10th of March, we left Nazareth,
passing over the hills and plains of Galilee ; saw many of
the wandering Arabs, or Bedouins, who live in movable
habitations, and change from place to place, as suits conveni-
ence, for grazing and agricultural purposes. Many of them
have large herds of sheep, goats and cattle ; cultivate the
ground to some extent ; and raise wheat, barley, beans, and
sometimes other vegetables. Their houses, or rather tents,
are constructed of flags made into long plats, similar to rush
window blinds, but of a much coarser and stronger texture,
and sufficiently wide for the height of the building. These
are set upright in a square form or otherwise to suit the taste
or convenience of the occuj)ants, and covered with a very
coarse kind of haircloth which is said to be impervious to
water. These tents can be taken down at pleasure and rolled
in packages for transit. Sometimes large villages are built
in this manner ; we passed through quite an extensive one,
with some of these buildings in course of erection. I noticed
several large ones that were connected together in line, making
a long row, in front of which were several large soup kettles ;
and the apartments seemed to be filled with occupants, every
appearance indicating a community style of living. I was
quite amused with a churning operation. The cream or milk,
whichever it might be, was confined in a goat skin which
was placed on a rudely constructed swing, out of doors, and a
woman was keeping it in motion, back and forth. These
Arabs are apparently of a lower grade, and are much less
cleanly in appearance than those who live in mud huts. In
going by rail from Alexandria to Cairo, we found the country
dotted Avith mud towns and villages. We passed through
one of very small extent, said to contain twenty thousand in-
habitants. It is very surprising to see how compactly these

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 279

people are stowed in their small houses, and how closely the
houses are huddled together.

I now leave you on the beautiful Sea of Galilee— a place
of more than ordinary interest in Bible history.

ELIZA K. SNOW.

LETTER LXIX

Cana of Galilee— Ancient Stone Jars — Jotapa— A Memorable Battle Field-
Tiberias— Sea of Galilee— Ancient Ruins— Chorazin—Bethsaida— Site of
Capernaum— Lake of Gennesareth— At Dan— Cesarea Philippi— Burial
Place of Nimrod— Castle of Subeiteb— Damascus— Visit the American
Consular Agent— Mosque of St. John— Interview with Abd-el Kader.

Camp on the Eight Bank of the Kiver Abana,

Damascus, Syria, March 18, 1873.

President Brigham Young:

Dear Brother:— On the 10th, a ride of five miles from-
Nazareth brought us to a small huddle of rude stone huts,
said to be on the site of Cana of Galilee. A primitive looking,
house is'shown, said to be on the site of thatjn which the wed-
ding was held where the Saviour turned the water into wine.
Two large, rough stone pots, much resembling the old hominy
blocks of the early settlers of Missouri, were shown us by a
monk, who, in very broken English, informed us they were
the ones the Saviour used at the time ; they will contain some
twenty -four quarts, and are now used for baptismal fonts.

About two miles from Cana is the site of Jotapa, memor-
able in history for its desperate defense, under Josephus,
against Vespasian, in the Jewish war. We passed through

280 COREESPONDENCE OF

the Valley of Hattin, where Saladin, the Caliph of Egypt,
gave the final blow to the power of the Crusaders in the Holy
Land. The region traveled over is smoother and less rocky
than any thus far this side of Jerusalem, except the Plains of
Esdraelon. Camped inside the walls of Tiberias, which is on
the west shore of the Sea of Galilee, or Lake of Tiberias, or
Lake of Gennesareth, some four miles north of where Jordan
leaves the lake. There are extensive ruins here that date
back to the time of Ilerod the Tetrarch, the murderer of
John the Baptist. The present walls were probably built by
the Crusaders, and enclose much unoccupied ground. The
place was damaged by an earthquake in 1837. The inhabi-
tants are mostly of Jewisli descent. Some hot sulphur
springs, about a mile south, were formerly celebrated for
their efficacy in rheumatic complaints and skin diseases.
We saw three small fi.shing boats, one of which had just
unloaded several fish resembling suckers, bass, shiners and
catfish. There were very fair potatoes in the market, and
our dragoman bought some. I looked through the principal
shops for a pair of gloves, but they had none.

Our dragoman, Anthony Makloof, on the morning of
the 11th, chartered a fishing boat, and Brothers Carrington and
T. Jennings and I took a three-hours' boat row, some nine
miles, to where the Jordan enters the Sea of Galilee, where
we took a short stroll on the right bank of the Jordan ; there
was an encampment of Bedouins on each side of the river,
with their goats' hair cloth and rush cane or flag tents, flocks
and herds ; several of the cattle, as they passed us, fat and
jolly, curled their tails like young pigs. The river enters
from between low hills, and has a small valley on each side
by the lake, and is about three feet deep across the bar. We
lunched under the shade of two large old trees, and then
rowed southerly along the western shore about three miles,
and landed at the supposed site of Chorazin, where are a
few ruins. Another hour's row in the same direction

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 281

brought us to the supposed ruins of the Bethsaida of Peter
and Andrew, where are now some Arab mills, from which
point a short row brought us to our camp, which had moved
up the lake about six miles to the fountain of the fig tree
(Ain-et-Tien), on the supposed site of Capernaum, where
there is scarcely a ruin visible.

On the 12th, on our route, we ascended rocky hills
several thousand feet and viewed the lake. Aside from the
Bible associations, the lake is very beautiful ; our guide
books and maps state it to be from 600 to 650 feet below the
Mediterranean ; the hills surrounding it slope to its shores,
except at the small crescent-shaped valley of Gennesareth.
As the location of many of the Saviour's teachings it is an
object of great interest to the Christian mind. While I was
bathing in the lake I saw a pilgrim bow down to the lake and
kiss the stones, from ignorant reverence. It is about six
miles by thirteen, and is 165 feet deep. If abundant rains
fell upon the country it would be fruitful. Our dragoman
tells us that nearly all vegetation now looking so fresh will
in a few weeks be dried up.

At several points, in ascending the rocky hills on the
morning of the 12th, we saw traces of an ancient road, said
to have been built by the Romans from Damascus to Tiberias,
on which the rocks they had smoothed were so slippery that
our horses could scarcely keep their feet. In the afternoon
we passed some patches in cultivation, and a large spring-
named Ain Meltahah, on which is a rude mill, and camped
at another large spring in the upper valley of the Jordan,
the finest region we have seen this side of the Plains of
Esdraelon, Some of our Bedouin neighbors visited us. A
boy about nine read, apparently very well, in Arabic, what
our guide said was a portion of the history of Joseph.
Several were moving their tent villages, preparatory to farm-
ing ; they have considerable herds of cattle and flocks of
sheep and goats, and a few camels. Their ploughs are

282 COKEESPONDENCE OF

insufficient for good work ; tliey plough with oxen. Frogs
were numerous and musical.

Thieteejs'th. — Passing numerous Bedouin tents and
herds, and crossing a branch of the Jordan on an ancient
stone bridge, we lunched at Dan, under two large oaks.
Here is one of the principal fountains or springs of the river
Jordan ; we drank the pure water, and thought of Abraham
at Dan, in pursuit of the kings, to recover Lot, (when he
pursued the kings to Hotab, on the right hand of Damascus,)
and of the calf which Jeroboam set up here to prevent Israel
from going to Jerusalem to worship. Unless there was better
water at Jerusalem then than now, Jeroboam had selected the
most pleasant site. In the evening we camped at Banias,
the Cesarea Philippi of Herod Agrippa, where Paul was held
bound and where Christ enquired— " Who do men say that I
the Son of Man am ? " Matthew XVI, 13. The place is now
a small village of filthy, miserable Arab stone huts, and frag-
ments of broken columns and pilasters occupy the site.
Here we visited another of the main springs or fountains of
the Jordan, which supplied the ancient city with an abund-
ance of tlie best of water, and is now used for irrigation.

FouETEENTH.— We rise about 5,000 feet over rocky steep
paths and one snow bank on the spurs of the Mount Hermon
range, rendered slippery by the rain of the previous night,
and then a long rapid descent, rough and stony, brought us
to an Arab village on a beautiful little stream in a deep rocky
gorge, where we lunched, and we camped for the night at
Kefr Hauar, another small Arab village on the bank of a
pretty stream ; here is the reported burial place of Nimrod.
We have seen several small groves of timber being raised by
irrigation. Our pack train starting some time after we did
was caught some two hours in a rain and snow storm, while
we were ahead of it. A boy came into camp with six perfect
toes on each foot, and six fingers on each hand, including
thumbs.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 283

On a liigli peak above Banias are the ruins of tbe castle
Subeiteli, wlii(3li covered an area of 1,000 by 200 feet, and
which we passed near by on our left ; it dates to the period
that Judea was a kingdom, and is said to be one of the most
magniiicent ruins in Syria.

Fifteenth. — As we advanced towards Damascus cultiva-
tion began to increase, and we passed some vineyards on light
reddish soil, and lunched in a small grove of young thrifty
trees carefully raised by irrigation. For some two miles
outside the walls, on the side we entered, we passed between
large helds, orchards and gardens made luxuriant by irriga-
tion upon the plan in practice in Utah, and this belt of
cultivation seems to extend around the city, while beyond
the belt thus cultivated it appears barren. Our way to camp
led directly through the city by narrow and ill-paved streets
thronged with people. This city, said to be the oldest in the
world, has made very shabby improvements. Eliezer, Abra-
ham's chief steward, was a native of Damascus, about 1,913
years before Christ. It needs some Yankee enterprise to
reconstruct this place, though its present condition demon-
strates what irrigation might be made to do in this part of the
world.

Sunday, 16.— We met in one of our tents and adminis-
tered the sacrament in the afternoon.

Monday, 17. — We made a call upon the American
Consular Agent, N. Meshaka, a native Syrian, who has never
been in America. He treated us very courteously, and we
conversed with him for some time. He asked us many ques-
tions in relation to our faith, being able to converse to some
extent in the English language; he is not a Mahommedan.
He informed us that the Mahommedan s could marry four
wives, and buy as many as they might be able or wish to.
He said the Turks would not approve of allowing women the
privilege of voting, that placing them too nearly on an equality
with man. We walked through a portion of the street called

284 CORRESPONDENCE OF

Strait, and through many streets and ways all narrow, and
visited what our dragoman told us was the best private resi-
dence in the city. We came to the conclusion that Damascus
is one of the shabbiest built cities we have ever visited; its
great beauty consists in the possession of water and land for
perhaps some twenty square miles, which has been reclaimed
from the surrounding desert. It is wonderful to us how
these crowded haunts of human beings are preserved from
destruction by pestilence. The Consular Agent told us that
at this season the city was healthy, but in summer and fall it
is sickly. According to Dr. Burns, this city has some 150,000
human beings on an area of about a mile square, with 200
mosques thrown in, one of which is in an enclosure of 1,100
feet by 800.

At 3 o'clock Mr. N. Meshaka, accompanied by two of his
friends, called upon us in camp. He informed us that if we
wished to establish missions in this country it would be
necessary to obtain permission from the Sultan. The Prince
of Saxe Weimar has just passed our camp on his entry to
Damascus, announced by the firing of artillery, and received
by thousands of people lining the side of the road, giving us
a good opportunity to see the people ; some 3,000 troops,
cavalry, artillery and infantry, had previously gone out to
escort him ; he is a young man in a plain light gray suit.

Moi^rDAY, 18 — This morning a servant of the Consular
Agent, dressed in a ginger-bread Turkish livery, with a
curved sword and whip, called at our camp by order of the
Agent, and conducted us to the great mosque, or Grand
Harem, or Mosque of St. John. In 705 it became entirely a
mosque ; previous to that it had been a Christian church, and
from the time of the Saracen occupation half of it was Chris-
tian; before that, or originally, it had been a heathen temple,
and some of its ancient columns are still remaining. They
showed us a tomb containing a gold casket said to contain the
head of John the Baptist ; behind an iron grating the ankles

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 285

of Mahomet are pointed out. We ascended one of tlie min-
arets and had a fine view of tlie city and its surrounding gar-
dens, groves, cultivated fields, and the neigliboring villages,
beyond which is desert. We then visited Abd-el-Kader, ren-
dered historic by his long and able defense of Algeria against
the French, and also for his kind rescue of many Christians
in the massacre of 1860. His Highness treated us with much
courtesy, and our interview was very pleasant. He said it
was 27 years since he went to France, and he liad resided
here 16 years. It is said that Mahomet when as a camel
driver he first came in sight of Damascus, refused to enter it,
saying; *' Man can have but one paradise, and my paradise
is fixed above;" this may illustrate the difference between
the naked desert, and the portion irrigated by the waters of
the Abana and Pharpar.

Brothers Snow and Carrington will take the post coach
for Beyrout this evening at 6 o'clock, timed to arrive there
to-morrow at 8 a. m., 14 hours' ride ; we expect to reach there
on horseback Friday evening, 21st, if the weather proves as
favorable as hitherto.

The party are all well, peaceful, and in good spirits.
Many thousand ladies visited our camp yesterday to see
Sisters Snow and Little.

GEOEGE A. SMITH.

AT THE SEA OF GALILEE.

I have stood on the shore of the beautiful sea,
The renown' d and immortalized Galilee,
When t'was wrapp'd in repose, at eventide.
Like a royal queen in her regal pride.

286 COERESPOI^TDENCE OF

No sound was astir— not a murmuring wave —
Not a motion was seen, but the tremulous lave,
A gentle heave of the water's crest —
As the infant bi-eathes on a mother's breast.

I thought of the present — the past ; it seemed
That the silent Sea with instruction teem'd;
For often, indeed, the heart can hear
What never, in so"Und, has approached the ear.

Full oft has silence been richly fraught
With treasures of wisdom and stores of thought,
With sacred, heavenly whisperings, too.
That are sweeter than roses, and honey dew.

There's a depth in the soul, that's beyond the reach

Of all earthly sound— of all human speech,

A fiber too sacred and pure to chime

With the cold, dull music of Earth and Time.

'Tis the heart's receptacle, naught can supply
But the streams that flow from the fount on high,
An instmct divine, of immortal worth,
An inherited gift, through primeval birth.

Again, when the shades of night, were gone,
In the clear bright rays of the morning dawn,
I walked on the bank of this self-same Sea,
Where once our Redeemer was wont to be.

Where, *' Lord save, or I perish," was Peter's prayer.
Befitting the weak and the faithless elsewhere.
And here, while admiring this Scriptural Sea,
Th' bold vista of Time brought th' past up to me.

Emboss' d with events when the Prince of Life
Endured this world's hatred, its envy and strife;
When, in Him, the Omnipotent was revealed,
And, by Him, the wide breach of the law was healed.

The gates He unbarred, and led the way.

Through the shadow of death, to the courts of day ;

And "led captivity captive" when

" He ascended on high, and gave gifts unto men,"

E. R. SNOW
Damascus, Syria, March 17th, 1873.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 287

LETTER LXX.

Leave Jerusalem— Bethel— The Robbers' Glen — Ruins of Shiloh— Jacob's
Well— Gerizim and [Ebal — Shechem — City of Samaria — Church of St.
John the Baptist — Dothan — Valley of Jezreel — Endor — Nazai-eth — Church
of the Annunciation — Cana of Galilee — Dwelling Place of Joseph and
Mary — Tiberias — Where Nimrod was Buried— Cesarea Philippi— Damas-
cus.

Damascus, March ISth, 1873.

Editors Salt Lake Herald:

At 8.15 a. m., on the 5th inst., we left Jerusalem en route
for this city. The weather was pleasant for traveling, and we
reached Beeroth after a three hours' ride. After lunch we
passed Bethel, where Jacob had his vision (see Gen. XXVIII,
10-22) ; rode through a canyon, which is called The Robbers'
Glen, and camped for the night at the mouth of the same,
where a number of years ago a traveling party had been
murdered. During the day we passed through many olive
groves and fig orchards, and in the valleys a good deal of
barley was sown, and looked very well. The following morn-
ing we broke camp at 7.30 a. m., passed through the ruins of
Shiloh at 9 a. m., where there is a very large and remarkable
old tree (see Josh. XVIII, 1 ; XIX, 51 ; Jer. VII, 12-14). We
lunched at Jacob's Well, (see John IV, 6), between the moun-
tains of Gerizim and Ebal ; this well is seventy -five feet deep.
In the afternoon we rode on to Nablous, the Shechem of old,
which was one of the cities of refuge (see Josh. XX, 7). It
is quite a large city now, and there seems to be some business

288 CORRESPONDENCE OF

transacted here, but the streets are very narrow and filthy.
On Friday morning it was raining and continued during the
forenoon; the road was very much up and down hill, and
in some places exceedingly rough, and also slippery on ac-
count of the rain. Our Arab horses are very sure-footed, and
it is astonishing to us how safely they carried us over really
dangerous looking places ; thank the Lord, we have not met
with any accident. We rode now over the hills of Samaria,
and about 9 a. m., we passed the site of the ancient city of
Samaria, which is beautiful for location. A large number of
granite columns, a good many standing, and others prostrate,
are found all over the hill. Here are also the ruins of the
Church of St. John the Baptist, with his supposed sepulchre,
and by reading Micah I, 5-7, it will be seen how literally the
Divine judgments have been executed. In the afternoon we
passed Dothan, where Joseph was sold by his brethren;
crossed the frontier between Samaria and Galilee, and reached
Jenin, near the entrance to the fields of Esdraelon, after eight
hours' ride, at 4.15 p. m. We had stopped about one hour
for lunch in the middle of the day.

Saturday the 8th, we left about 7.30 a. m., and passed
over the fertile and well cultivated Plains of Esdraelon, called
in the Scriptures the Valley of Jezreel and Plains of Megiddo,
(see Judges VI, 33 ; 2 Chron. XXXV, 22), and had mostly
good roads but they were muddy from yesterday's rain. To
our right we saw the mountains of Gilboa, Little Hermon and
Endor, in the distance, where Saul visited the witch under
cover of the night. A little further on, Mount Tabor came in
sight which makes a very striking appearance ; and a little
after 3 p. m. we readied Nazareth, which is nicely situated on
a mountain slope, reaching down into the valley. Our tent
ground was at the foot of the town, and close to the Greek
Church of Annunciation. A large number of Armenians,
who had come forty days by land to perform a pilgrimage to
Jerusalem, were camping close by.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 289

We spent the Sabbath in visiting the Greek Church of
the Annunciation, where we were shown the fountain wliere
Mary sat when the angel appeared to her ; then we went to a
Catholic church, whicli, it is said, was the synagogue in
which Jesus preached to the Jews, (Luke IV, 16 to end) ;
thence to a Latin convent, where a polite friar showed us several
natural caves, generally called the *' parlor, bedroom and
kitchen" of Mary, where she is said to have lived with Jo-
seph. He took us to another chapel, erected on tlie site of
Joseph's carpenter shop, and showed us some antique furni-
ture ; and still in another chapel he showed a large natural
rock, on which he said the Saviour had eaten, before and
after his resurrection. To show us all these sights he had to
take us through a number of streets, and we came to the con-
clusion that of all the narrow and dirty streets of the Pales-
tine cities we had visited, the beautifully situated Nazareth
could boast of the most crooked, the steepest and the filthiest.

Monday morning before leaving Nazareth we witnessed
an Armenian funeral of a pilgrim woman, who had died the
day before. We started at 8 a. m., and after riding about an
hour and a quarter we reached Cana of Galilee, where Na-
thaniel was born and where Jesus worked his first miracle
(see John II, 1 to end). Our road led alternately through fer-
tile valleys and over high hills. At 3 p. m. we came in sight of
the Sea of Galilee, also called the Lake of Tiberias or the Lake
of Gennesareth, and at 3.45 we reached our tents, pitched at
the north end of the City of Tiberias, within about ten rods
of the shore of the lake, which is very beautiful. It isaboat
thirteen miles long by six miles wide, and 620 feet below the
level of the Mediterranean. We had a fine moonlight night,
the moon being nearly over our heads, and we enjoyed the
scenery very much. We visited the city, around which ex-
tensive ruins of its former greatness are found, and also two
hot sulphur springs a mile south of the town, the tempera-
ture of which is said to be 144 degrees, Fahrenheit. Tuesday,

290 CORRESPONDENCE OF

the 11th inst. , we had a delightful morning and saw to the north
of the lake Mount Hermon, ten thousand feet high, whose tops
are covered with eternal snow. President Greorge A. Smith,
Albert Carrington and Thomas W. Jennings, with two other
gentlemen, took a ride over the lake in a fishing boat to the
mouth of the Jordan, while the rest of our party traveled
along the shore about six miles north, to our next camping
ground, at the supposed site of Capernaum, where we found
a splendid spring of good water, shaded by a large venera-
ble fig tree. The following day we traveled over some high
hills to the plains by the waters of Merom, and camped near
another spring, a few miles north of the famous fountain of
Ain Mehalah. On Thursday we passed over very fine farm-
ing land, saw a number of Bedouin tent villages, large herds
of stock and flocks of sheep and goats, lunched under two
large shade trees at Dan, near one of the principal sources of
the Jordan, and reached Banias or Panias, the ancient Cesa-
rea Philippi, at 2.30 p. m. Here, from a cliff of limestone
about 100 feet high, bursts forth another source of the river
Jordan ; and broken columns and many ruins all over the
neighborhood speak of the former greatness of this place
where the Apostle Paul made his celebrated defense before
King Agrippa, (see Acts XXV and XXVI.) During the night
we had a heavy thunder storm, and one of our tents fell down.
Friday, the 14tb, we traveled over the spurs of Mount
Hermon, rising to an elevation of more than 5,000 feet, and
traversing very hard and stony ways. We reached the Arab
village Beit Jenin, at noon, and stopped there for lunch and
rest for about two hours, near a nice spring. Two and one
half hours more riding brought us to the Arab village Kefr
Hauar, which is said to be the burial-place of the "mighty
hunter" Nimrod. This was one of the hardest day's riding
we have had, and our pack train, that had taken another
road, was traveling for three hours in a rain and snow storm.
Next morning we left a little before 8 a. m. , our road leading

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 291

US through fertile and well cultivated plains, and we soon
saw the minarets of ancient Damascus in the distance. The
road was excellent all day, and soon after nooning we were
approaching the luxuriant suburbs, passing through fields,
gardens, vineyards and orchards, which extend round about
Damascus for miles, and are watered from the streams Abana
and Pharpar. The gardens and orchards are fenced with
walls of dried mud, cut in immense square blocks, and the
walls are from eight to ten feet high. All the apricot trees
were in blossom, and the whole region looked very fertile.
We entered through the eastern gate, and rode through the
whole city, as our camping ground was outside the western gate.
The streets and suburbs of the city were crowded with people,
and a great number of women were out in their white robes, as
it was "Miram," one of the Mahommedan holidays of Lent.
Damascus is generally admitted to be one of the oldest cities of
the world, and is said to have been founded by the grandson of
Noah. It contains now about 150,000 inhabitants, mostly
Mahommedan s, and but very few Europeans are seen in the
streets. The Scriptural references to this old city may be found
in Gen. XV, 2 ; 2 Sam. YIII, 6 ; 1 Chron. X^^II, 6 ; 1 Kings XI,
24 ; 2 Kings V, 12 ; VIII, 7 ; XIV, 28 ; XVI, 9 ; 2 Chron. XXVIH ,
5; Isaiah VIII, 4; X, 9; XVII, 1, and Jer. XLIX, 23, 24.
We have called upon the American Consular Agent, Mr.N.
Meshaka, a Syrian, with whom we had quite a lengthy and
pleasant interview, and he returned the call at our tents
with some of his friends. We also took a stroll through
the city, looked at the numerous bazars, saw the extraordi-
nary old plane tree, the trunk of which is forty feet in circum-
ference, passed through the street called '« Straight," (see Acts
IX,10,11,) and intend to visit some more places of interest.

We are all in good health, and expect to leave to-morrow
for Beyrout.

PAUL A. SCHETTLER.

292 CORKESPONDENCE OF

LETTER LXXI.

start for Beyrout— At Damascus— An Excellent Road— Massacre by Turks-
Rain — At Kob Elias — Arrive at Beyrout— Sacred Relics — Monkish Riv-
alry— Physical Contrast Between Arabs and Jews— Silk Culture— Groves
of Figs, Oranges, Olives and Dates.

New Oriental Hotel, Beyrout, Syria,

March 24, 1873.

President Brigham Young:

Dear Brother — On Tuesday evening, 18th inst. , Brothers
Snow and Carrington took post coach for Beyrout, where
they arrived on the morning of the 19th, and posted the
letters I wrote to you at Nazareth and Damascus, and other
letters forwarded by them, to go by the steamer on the 20th.
During the time we remained at Damascus, several thousand
women came out to look at our camp, and great numbers of
them kissed Sisters Snow and Little, and seemed much inter-
ested in seeing them.

Our programme included a visit to the ruins of Baalbec,
but it was not deemed best to make it. This arrangement
proved to be well-timed, as I learned from a Mr. Todd that
his party to Baalbec were exposed for several hours to a cold,
severe and drenching storm of hail and rain on Wednesday
and Thursday. Where we were the weather was favorable.

The French company's road, 112 kilometres of five-
eights of a mile each, is well macadamized, and kept in
excellent repair. It crosses the Anti-Lebanon and Lebanon
ranges of mountains and the beautiful plain or valley between

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 293

them, wliich is irrigated by abundant streams flowing from
the two ranges, and is well cultivated. The massacre of the
Christians by the Turks at Damascus, in 18C0, caused six
European powers, including Turlvey, to send some 6,000
French soldiers to Damascus, to protect tlie Christian inter-
ests ; probably from this move sprang the excellent road
between Damascus and Beyrout, made, kept in repair and
owned by a French company, who have a charter for fifty
years, at the expiration of which time the road is to become the
property of the Turkish government; should that event trans-
pire, Mr. N. Meshaka, U. S. Consular Agent, said the road
would at once be allowed to go out of repair. A change from
rocky trails to this smooth road seemed very agreeable,
though the descents were fatiguing.

During the night of the 18th we had a rain, which
changed our rather damp camp ground into a swamp, making
our start on the morning of the 19ih an agreeable change.
The day threatened rain but it passed to the north of us.
Camped at Dimas,in the Anti-Lebanon range.

Thursday night, 20th, we camped at Kob Elias, an Arab
town at the east base of the Lebanon range. The valley
between the two ranges is one of the most fertile and best
cultivated that we have seen, water for irrigating being sup-
plied by streams fed by rains and melting snows.

We arrived at Beyrout at 2.45 p. m., Friday 21st, and
stayed in camp until the 22nd, when we went to the New
Oriental Hotel, the hotel where Brothers Snow and Carring-
ton were being full. Our dragoman, Mr. Anthony Makloof,
proved himself efficient in conducting us from Jaffa to this
place, and in providing very comfortably for our wants.

We have had but part of a day's rain during our jour-
ney from Jaffa — on the 22nd of February. We were pro-
vided with good horses, and they performed their part well.
We all arrived here in good health.

In my letters to you I have reported rather minutely what

294 CORRESPONDENCE OF

has been told us by our guides and the monks, &c., in rela-
tion to the old sacred sites and relics, which may be illus-
trated in the case of John the Baptist. At the Church of San
Lorenzo, in Genoa, we were shown the chain with which he
was bound, and a casket which contained his head ; Pope
Innocent having decreed that no woman should enter the
chapel containing these relics only on one day in a year,
Sisters Snow and Little were not admitted into the chapel ;
the monk informed us there could be no mistake about their
identity. When at Samaria, in the Church of St. John the
Baptist, erected by the Knights of St. John in the 11th cen-
tury, and much dilapidated, we were allowed to look into the
tomb and see the bones of St. John and his family. When
visiting the Grand Harem at Damascus, once the Church of
St. Jolm, and now the Mosque of St. John the Baptist, we
were shown an enclosure containing the head of John the
Baptist in a golden casket. When in Venice, in a church, I
was shown a piece of marble upon which the guide assured
me the head of John the Baptist fell when it was cut ofl', and
a casket containing his remains, wliich he assured me were
brouglit from Palestine about 800 years ago. I suppose it
would be sacrilegious to doubt the identity of all these sacred
remains. I visited the Garden of Gethsemane, was shown by
a monk the spot where the Saviour was arrested and the tree
under which he sweat great drops of blood. The garden is
surrounded by a good, newly built wall ; the olive trees are
very old. The Greek monks have another garden near by,
which they assert with equal positiveness to be the true one.
Owing to a mis-date, accidentally made in advising the
Liverpool office, we get no mail matter here, but expect to
receive it at Constantinople on the 31st. On our way there
the ship makes short stops at Cyprus, Rhodes and Smyrna,
giving opportunity for going ashore.

At Bey rout, there are some schools and missionary estab-
lishments belonging to Catholics and Protestants, but we are

PALESTINE TOUEISTS. 296

told they are sustained by large coutributions from abroad.
Most of the business here is conducted by foreigners ; and
as many as possible, botli natives and foreigners, get ap-
pointed to some public office of a foreign government, or a
dragoman or servant to some officer of sucli government, to
avoid many of the exactions of the Turkish government.

So far as could be observed in a hasty ride through the
country the Bedouins ands* others of Arab descent seem to be
tall, litlie, well-proportioned and athletic, indicating a goodly
degree of physical purity; our dragoman informs us that
adultery is punished with death, which aids in preserving
from physical corruption and degeneracy. The Jews seem to
be a down -trodden race.

In this vicinity the cultivation of the mulberry and the
production of silk are carried on to a considerable extent ;
and in many places the slopes of the mountains are exten-
sively terraced and cultivated and dotted with small villages ;
and in an intervening valley some good sized groves of pine
are well cultivated, while figs, oranges and olives are raised
in large quantities, and date trees are tolerably numerous, •f'f

GEOEGE A. SMITH.

296 CORRESPONDENCE OF

LETTER LXXII.

Sea of Galilee — Tiberias — A Daughter of Alicia — Visit Jewish Residences —
Human Beings and Asses Dwelling in one Room — The Cleanest Town
In Palestine — Mouth of Jordan — Chorazin and Bethsaida — Ruins of
Magdala — A Ramble on the Sea Sliore — Mount Hermon— Damascus and
Its Forty Thousand Dogs.

Beyeout, March 24tli, 1873.

Editoe Woman's Exponent:

Aside from the deep interest with which sacred history
clothes the Sea of Galilee, it is beautifal. We camped with-
in the walls of Tiberias, a small town situated on the sea
shore. As I walked along the edge of the water, a young
daughter of Judali came — filled a large earthen jar with sea-
water — placed it on her head, according to the usual custom,
and started home. Prompted by her gracious and friendly
greeting, I followed, and by signs (how much bother that con-
founding at Babel has occasioned!) made her understand
that I wished to accompany her home. She seemed pleased,
and on entering, set her jug down in the front room, and
leading the way into the second and only remaining one —
which was parlor, sitting and sleeping room, as I under-
stood by being shown where the mats for lodging were
deposited — she introduced me to an elderly woman, who
received me very cordially. The room was very small and
neatly spread with rush or flag rugs over the earth floor. The
two Jewesses motioned me to follow them through a small
opening^ — the only one except the door — into a little garden

PALESTINE TOUKISTS. 297

containing a few ^' petatis," one or two low trees, a few shrubs,
mint, etc. I had some pretty wild flowers in my hand which
the young lady threw down very significantly, at the same
time plucking and presenting me green branches from a
hyssop bush, the most flourishing shrub in the }■ ard. To this,
although destitute of fruit and flowers, they seemed to attach
a great deal of consequence. The garden, or yard, had no
egress but the one through which we entered, consequently,
we crawled back into the house, when the young Jewess took
me across the street into another house, where we found a
neatly-dressed Jewess, with but one room, and I think at
least one-third of that was appropriated to donkeys, their
portion being defined by a narrow ditch, which served as a
trough, in which they were feeding. She was tending an in-
fant, and rising, saluted me politely, and urged me to occupy
her stool, which was the only seat present. The floor was
hard, smooth ground, destitute of carpet or rug; an iron
tripod about five inches high was standing over a fire in the
lady's portion of the room, on which something was boiling ;
and although whatever smoke existed must have circulated
through the room it was not perceptible. Despite all the
peculiarities, there was an order and an air of neatness in
this house that really surprised me. I give these descriptions
as samples — these houses appearing to be about the average
type. The population of Tiberias is mostly Jews, and it
has the distinguishing honor of being the cleanest town in
Palestine.

The next day President Smith, Professor Carrington,
Brother Jennings and two American gentlemen traveling
with us, wishing to enjoy a boat-ride on the sea, were rowed
across to the mouth of the Jordan, supposed to have been
near the locality of Chorazin and Bethsaida, while the rest of
the party preferred riding on horseback to the place of des-
tination, occupying two hours along the sea side. We passed
the ruins of Magdala, said to be the place where Mary Mag-

298 CORRESPONDENCE OF

dalene formerly lived, and preceded the boaters nearly four
hour?. In the meantime, Miss Little and myself took a sea-
side walk in search of shells for our friends at home ; but
after promenading the shore and scrutinizing tlie water's edge
for a long distance, pronounced it a failure— selected a few
pebbles and returned to camp, tired if not fatigued.

Of the Sea of Galilee I shall probably say more hereafter.
At this point the snow-crowned Mount Hermon is in plain
sight, the spur of which we traveled over on the 14th after
encamping at Banias, the ancient Cesarea Philippi, the pre-
ceding night. We ascended to the height of five thousand
feet, over the roughest passes and trails imaginable— some-
times over rocks apparently as smooth as glass, and the great-
est wonder was that our animals kept in standing position. But
they are trained to rocky, difficult passes— they know but little
of roads ; this I learned after leaving Damascus, from which
place to Beyrout is a splendid macadamized road, on which
between these two points the " diligence" for passengers, and
a mail coach run daily. Until on this road, I had not dis-
covered that my horse was skittish, but here— feeling out of
its latitude, it was afraid of everything, and although I had to
be all the time on the watch, I was much amused; the rest of
the animals manifested in a greater or less degree the same
strangeness of feeling.

Before we reached Damascus, for a long distance, the
way was lined on each side with fields of grape vines, appar-
ently well cultivated. We rode through the city and camped
on an open square washed by the beautiful river Abana ; and
the next morning I expressed my willingness to admit the
statement that Damascus keeps forty thousand dogs— their
noise in proof.

Here, as has been customary with the party whenever
consistent, we had the sacrament administered on Sunday.
Monday we accompanied President Smith on a visit to the
sub-American Consul, N. Meshaka, a native Syrian, who

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 299

spoke English tolerably. He received us with marked kind-
ness— asked President Smith many questions concerning our
people, politics, religion, etc., spent an hour or more in
earnest conversation, and expressed himself much gratified
with the call, which he returned in the evening. Before we
left, an attendant served to each a tiny cup of coifee, con-
taining about half a gill, which, as a national token of friend-
ship, courtesy prompted us to accept.

ELIZA R. SNOW.

LETTER LXXIII

Leave Damascus— The only Wagon Road in Syria— Fine Scenery— Moun-
tains of Lebanon— Beyrout—Finisli of Camp Life— On board the " Mars"
— Islandof Cyprus— Rhodes — Patmos— Scio — Smyrna— Lesbos — Tenedos —
Dardanelli — Abydos — Gallipoli — Sea of Marmora — Golden Horn — Con-
stantinople.

Hotel d'Angleterre, Constantinople,

April 4th, 1873.

Editors Salt Lake Herald:

We left Damascus on the morning of the 19th of March,
having given up the idea of visiting the ruins of Baalbec,
and took the nearest route for Beyrout, which is a fine
macadamized wagon road, 112 kilometers, or about 67
English miles long, built by a French company, and kept in
excellent condition. This is in fact the only wagon road in
Palestine and Syria, all the rest being pack trails and bridle
paths, and no vehicle could pass over them for any distance.

The scenery we passed through was very fine. Our road

300 CORRESPONDENCE OF

led for miles through gardens and orchards, and then
through some romantic mountain gorges, that reminded us
much of our canyons at home ; and we camped for the night
near the Arab village of Dimas, situated on the spurs of the
Anti-Lebanon. The following morning, before we left,
several thousands of black goats came out of the different
parts of the village to be driven to the surrounding hills for
pasturage. After passing through a few more canyons we
descended the Anti-Lebanon, into a large plain or rather
highly cultivated valley, situated between the Lebanon and
Anti-Lebanon ranges of mountains. We stopped for lunch
near the river Lithany, and camped for the night near Kob
Elias, on a spur of the mighty Lebanon. Friday morning,
the 21st, was very cold, and we had to ascend for about two
hours before we reached the summit, which is here 6,825 feet
high. For the rest of the day the road was continually
descending towards Beyrout, which made this last day of ours
in the saddle rather fatiguing. We had a beautiful view of
the '* Glory of Lebanon," and the nearer we approached
Beyrout, the more the fertility of the soil and the beauty of
the scenery increased. We passed through beautiful vege-
table gardens, fig orchards and a large number of thrifty
mulberry plantations, till we reached our camp ground at
Beyrout, at 2.45 p. m.

On the afternoon of the 22nd, we moved to the New
Oriental Hotel, close by the Mediterranean, as our time for
Palestine camp life had expired. The time of our departure
by steamer was fixed for the evening of the 24th, but she
was about twenty-four hours behind time, and we had to lie
over another day. At four p. m. we went aboard the steamer
Mars, 400 horse power, 3,356 tons, and as it had been
blowing hard a few days ago, the ship rolled considerably,
and quite a number of the passengers got sea-sick. Next
morning the sea was calm, and we reached Larnaka, the
principal city on the Island of Cyprus, at 8.30 a. m.,and

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 301

stopped there till 4.15 p. m. to load and unload freight
(mostly fruit) and passengers. During the niglit and next
day we steamed northwest, and had heavy headwinds, so
that we could not make up for lost time, as was intended. At
5.30 a. m., the 28th, we dropped anchor at Rhodes, and
stopped there about three hours, but the surf was so high
that the captain advised the passengers not to go ashore,
except those who had to stop here. Five boats had been
upset the day before, and three men drowned. Some parts
of the island looked very romantic and fertile. From here
we steamed in a northerly direction through the Grecian
Archipelago, and passed a number of beautiful islands,
among them, a little after dark, the celebrated Island of
Patmos, where John the Revelator had his wonderful visions.
Early the following morning we reached the Island of Scio,
where we took aboard a large number of cases of oranges
and lemons. At 9.15 we left, and reached Smyrna, at 4.15 in
the afternoon. Sunday morning we went ashore for about
three hours, and walked through the principal parts of this
ancient city, but we had no time to go to Ephesus by rail, to
visit the ruins of the lately excavated temple of the Diana of
Ephesus, which we very much regretted. We departed at
11.15 in the morning, and passed a number of islands. In
the evening we arrived at Mytilene, the ancient Lesbos, and
the following morning at Tenedos. At 10 in the morning we
stopped one hour at Dardanelli, passed a few miles farther
to Abydos, where Leander used to swim across to visit his
beloved one. At 2 p. m. we reached Gallipoli, stopped a
couple of hours and then entered the Sea of Marmora. Early
on Tuesday, the 1st of April, we reached the Golden Horn,
and as the sun was rising we had a beautiful view from the
deck of our steamer of the city of Constantinople, with its
many mosques and minarets. This city occupies one of the
finest natural situations in the world, being built upon a
tongue of land of a triangular shape, which lies upon the

302 COERESPONDENCE OF

west side of the souihern entrance of the Bosphorus. On
the northern side of the city is a branch of the Bosphorus,
called the Golden Horn, which forms a magnificent harbor.
Beyond this are the suburbs of Pera, Galatea and Sophana,
the former of which is the principal seat of trade. We put
up at the Hotel d'Angleterre, where we found a number of
letters and papers from home, which were very welcome to
us, as we had not received any letters since the 24th of
February. In my next I will give you a description of our
visit at Constantinople. To-morrow morning we expect to
leave for Athens, reaching there on the morning of the 7th,
and stay about five days in Greece. Mr. Feramorz Little
with daughter and Mr. Thomas W. Jennings intend to
leave our party at Syra, and go direct to Trieste, to reach
there next Thursday, the 10th.

PAUL A. SCHETTLER.

LETTER LXXIV.

Damascus — Reception Rooms Of a Prince — River Abana— At Dimas— Large
Plocks of Goats — In Camp on the Anti-Lebanon Mountains — The
Scenery of Lebanon — Contrast Between Art and Nature — Beyrout— Silk
Industry — Entertained by Turks — Adieu to Tent Life — On Board the
"Mars."

Constantinople, Turkey, April 8th, 1873,

Editok Woman's Exponent:

The city of Damascus has a venerable appearance —it is
very shabbily built, and whatever taste may be internally dis-
played, its private buildings exhibit none on their exterior.
We visited what had the reputation of being the best apart-
ments in the place— just fitted up for the reception of a German

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 303

prince, whose arrival was hourly expected. The recep-
tion room was a cushioned siesta, open in front and facing a
square, or open court, in which was a large fountain. From
this we were conducted into a large, square room, which
strange to say, was well lighted with glass ; the front part
was floored with variegated marble, on which stood a white
marble basin, four feet in diameter, into which the water
was gently flowing from a fountain. The back part of the
room was raised some six inches above the front, carpeted,
and amply supplied with lounges, sofas, etc., all in veritable
eastern style, and exceedingly neat. This same young
Prince of Weimar and suite have been several times on board
steamers with us — we i^saw them in Jaffa and Jerusaleiu,
where, as well as in Damascus, they were received with a
display of public honors.

On the morning of March 19th, we left the old city of Scrip-
tural celebrity — the scene of many former striking incidents,
particularly that of the miraculous conversion of Paul, and
having walked on the ''Street called Straight," (which judg-
ing from tlie gate leading into it was much broader formerly
than now)— with its one hundred and fifty thousand inhabit-
ants, without shedding any tears of regret. Now, instead of
narrow trails, we travel on the broad, smooth '^ diligence road,"
through a narrow gorge between high rocky ridges, overlook-
ing narrow strips of fertility along the beautiful Abana river,
which skirts the almost perpendicular bluff's for several
miles, and at night camp at a village of hovel-like dwellings,
called Dimas. The next morning, while waiting the adjust-
ment of tents, baggage, etc. on the pack mules, we were much
interested in seeing the numerous goat herds with their large
flocks of goats, starting out to the mountains which sur-
rounded us on all sides ; and, particularly to our amusement,
numbers of these goats issued from the doors of the houses,
to which there was but one opening. As the goats came
through the doorway, they were intermingled with men,

304 CORRESPONDENCE OF

women and children. Our encampment was on a ridge of
the Anti-Lebanon range.

The next day we traveled over an extensive valley lying
between the two ranges, which as we approached the great
range was highly cultivated, and crowned with luxuriant
fields of grain, with houses representing civilization, if not
refinement. Leaving this delightful landscape scenery, we
ascended a steep ridge, where we camped for the night, in
sight of lofty peaks of the celebrated Mountains of Lebanon,
covered with snow ; and felt the atmosphere cooled by its
frosty breath. The next morning, as we ascended the highest
elevation, we found the cold intense — banks of snow, from
time to time, lying on the roadside, much to the annoyance
of our animals — they seemed to be making its acquaintance
for the first time.

At several points on this Lebanon range the view is beau-
tiful beyond description — not only beautiful, it is grand and
magnificent, combining a portion of sublimity, that, while
you are struck with admiration, a feeling of awe instinctively
entwines around your imagination. I was so captivated with
the wild, bold, majestic scenery of nature, exhibited in an
interminable variety of forms, before, behind, all around me,
that many times I stopped my horse, that I might feast my
eyes on the surrounding beauties of nature — the almost un-
cultivated '* Griory of Lebanon." Some of the mountain
slopes presented an appearance of having been terraced long
ago, and in many places the vine is seen in rows, apparently
struggling against the wash of storms and the waste of
years.

The place where for the last time we dismounted for
lunch I shall not readily forget. It was on a high elevation
overlooking a cluster of ridges which rise in proud loftiness
over deep ravines, that, viewed from our stand-point, pro-
duced a sense of giddiness from their immense depth. Al-
though the sides of their eminences are very steep, they are

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 306

terraced, and, from base to summit, highly cnltivated, and
covered with many varieties of vegetation, and exhibit, in a
striking illustration, the effect of the skilful power of art in
softening and in transforming the rough and wild condition
of nature. To complete this strange, picturesque scene, the
broad, smooth road, paved with white limestone, com-
mences a descent directly from our lunching place, and, in-
stead of crossing the ravines and running in a straight line,
it winds and zigzags around, low down at the foot of these
eminences, its whiteness forming a marked contrast to the
green verdure of vegetation, the luxuriant foliage of shrub-
bery and shade trees, and the gay colors of the flowers,
already in full bloom.

After leaving this point, which is about ten miles from
Beyrout, the road runs in a straight direction, and, for a long
distance, is lined on both sides with fields of mulberry.
These trees have an old appearance — the trunks being very
large, and the branches young and small from constant prun-
ing. The manufacture of silk is quite a business at Beyrout,
this place having superseded Damascus, where formerly it was
carried on extensively.

Before our arrival in Beyrout, our dragoman, having
special business in the city, left us in charge of a Turk who
could not speak English, and understood it but little ; and as
we preceded our pack mules with tents, etc., he took us to a
house where we were received with tokens of kindness:
everything was done that hospitality need suggest — we were
seated in the best room on cushioned seats, were served to
tiny cups of coffee, glasses of lemonade, etc., were shown
into their weaving establishment with many specimens of silk
manufacture— all this time without understanding what
prompted these expressions of friendship, for we could not
comprehend a word of each other's language. After some
time Antonio, our dragoman, came and relieved our curiosity,
by informing us that the people of the house were relatives

306 COKEESPONDENCE OF

of the man who introduced us to them. Presently our tents
were pitched and we left the hospitable roof, and invited the
lady of the house with two or three others to accompany us,
which they did. The distance was short, but others seeing
these, joined in, and then others joined them, and by the
time our tents were reached, we had a large procession. At
this time there was a public demonstration in favor of a
German Prince, just entering the city, but we concluded that
ourselves drew the most attention. The next forenoon we
were visited by multitudes; some of the ladies urging Miss
Little and myself, we accompanied them to tlieir homes,
which we found, though simple in style, very neat.

In the afternoon — the 22nd of March, we mounted horses
for tlie last time — bade adieu to tent life, and rode to the
hotel, and on the 25th went on board the steamer Mars^ of
the Austrian Lloyd line, en route for Constantinople.

ELIZA E. SNOW.

LETTER LXXV

Four Days at Constantinople — Visit the German Minister — Embark on
the "Mars" — Arrive at Athens — Famous Grecian Ruins — Religious
Toleration.

Hotel'des Etrangees, Athens, Greece,

AprU 10th, 1873.
President Brigham Young:

Dear Brother: — Our short stay of four days at Constanti-
nople gave us but little time to form an acquaintance with a
people so reserved and exclusive in their domestic aflfairs as
are the Turks. The more we examined the city, the more we

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 307

appreciated its line situation. The qnarters called Galatea
and Pera, between the Golden Horn and tlie Bosphorus, are
being built up much in the European style. Many parts of
Constantinople proper, called Stamboul, have been burned
at different periods ; and much of the remainder would be
improved by clearing off the old rickety wooden buildings,
widening and straightening the streets and erecting more
sightly and substantial buildings. Its population, including
immediate suburbs, is stated to be 1,078,000, and under a lib-
eral government it would become one of the largest commer-
cial cities in the world.

Its possession has been fiercely contested within the
period of history, it being recorded to have been besieged
twenty-four times, and taken six times. The Latin Crusaders
under Dondolo, the blind Doge of Venice, in 1203, con-
quered and pillaged this city, not even sparing the tombs of
the Emperors. The sacred ornaments of the Church of St.
Sophia were carried to Venice. Its final conquest, by Sultan
Mahmoud II, was in 1481. The Mosque of St. Sophia,
stripped of its images, its crosses and paintings mutilated,
remains in good preservation to this day ; four stately mina-
rets have been erected to give it the character and appearance
of a mosque. To build that church Justinian plundered the
temples of Asia, Egypt, Greece and Rome. It measures 235
feet north and south, by 350 east and west, and was built in
the Byzantine style. When it was taken by the Turks it
was filled with a worshipping congregation of frightened
men, women and children, who hoped they would be pro-
tected and their lives preserved in the church ; history states
they were massacred in the building by the soldiers. Our
guide told us that a clergyman was performing service at the
time, and was but half through ; that the marble opened
when the Turks entered, and enclosed the minister and his
boy assistant ; and that when the Christians again take the
building, the marble will open, and the priest and boy come

308 COREESPONDENCE OF

out and finish the service. The guide did not seem to credit
the legend, but said it was believed by many.

A considerable portion of the inhabitants of Constanti-
nople are Greeks. General Baker, the American Minister,
with whom we had a pleasant interview, stated that the Turks at
the present were far more tolerant towards the Christians than
the Christians are towards each other. He expected to soon
receive instructions to sign a protocol which will authorize
American citizens to purchase and hold real estate, and enjoy
the rights and protection of citizens.

We called on the German Minister and were courteously
entertained.

We witnessed the procession of the Sultan going to the
mosque on Friday, the Turkish Sunday, accompanied by his
son. A magnificent boat, richly gilt, with a highly orna-
mented throne under a canopy, rowed by 26 oarsmen, a
smaller boat with the son, rowed past seven steamships of war
formed in line, with their masts and rigging covered with
men ; during the time 21 guns were fired by the ships ; he
was received at the mosque by some 1,200 infantry, and a
large number of officers in gay uniform ; he stepped from the
boat to the platform, and walked up tlie steps into the
mosque. On his return the firing was omitted.

Constantinople is somewhat remarkable for a large num-
ber of very fine horses, well fed and cared for.

On our visit to the Sweet Waters we saw hundreds of
carriages, a large number of which contained Turkish ladies,
only their eyes unveiled, though most of the veils were thin.
The turn-outs were most of them first-class, the sexes of the
natives riding separately.

On the morning of the 5th we went on board the steam-
ship Mars^ and arrived at Syra on the evening of the 6th,
where Brother and Sister Snow, Brother Carrington and my-
self reshipped on the steamship Wieriy while Brother Little
and daughter and Brother Jennings, not wishing to visit

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 309

Greece, stayed on the Mars on their way to Trieste and Venice,
expecting to stop a day or two at Venice, from which place
Brother Little and danghter purpose proceeding to England.

We arrived at Piraeus, the port of Athens, which lias a
beautiful land-locked harbor, on the morning of the 7th.

On the 8th visited the Temple of Jupiter Olympus ; six-
teen of the original 120 columns are standing ; a fallen one
shows the mode of their construction ; also the Arch of
Hadrian near by, which formerly was on the line between the
city of Theseus and the city of Hadrian, who reigned in Rome
A. D. 118. Then drove to the Monument of Lysicrates, said
to be the most ancient monument in the Corinthian style, B.
C. 335. Then to the Dionysiac Theatre, on the east corner of
the south-east slope of the Acropolis, built B. C. 340. Then
to the Odeum of Herodes ; from there the guide pointed out
the so-called Museum Hill, the prison of Socrates, the Pnyx,
and Mars Hill, all near by. Then to the propylcan entrance
to the temples on the Acropolis ; on the left was the pedestal
of the Statue of Agrippa ; to the right the ruins of the Tem-
ple of Nike Apteros, or Victory without wings, erected in
honor of the Greek victory at Marathon ; from thence the
guide pointed out the Island of Salamis, and the Straits of
Salamis, where the Greeks defeated the Persians in a naval
battle. We then went into the Parthenon, or Temple of the
Virgin ; then to a point where we had a fine view over Athens,
and much of the surrounding country. Then to the Erech-
theum, a temple just north of the Parthenon, and near the
north wall of the Acropolis. Then we drove to the Pnyx,
and stood on the stone platform from which it is said Demos-
thenes and others used to address the people assembled in
the open air. Then we drove to the Temple of Theseus, in
which are many specimens of statuary more or less injured,
and many other antiques. Then to an old cemetery recently
laid bare in part, where are some fine specimens of burial
monuments. Then we were shown one side of the Magazine

310 CORRESPONDENCE OF

of Hadrian, which had some fine columns. Then an ancient
market gate, near which was a stone column on which was
chiseled an ancient price list. Then the Temple of Eolus, or
the winds, and from thence to the hotel, after an interesting
and instructive out of nearly four hours.

Last evening, agreeable to invitation , we took tea at the
American Minister's, and spent some two and a half hours
very agreeably.

This city is said to contain 48,000 inhabitants, and Piraeus
11,000, the two connected by a five-mile railroad, the only one
in Greece. There are two other good, small harbors near the
Piraeus.

Christian religions are tolerated, but no proselyting is
allowed, except to the established oriental Greek Church.
The King, though a Lutheran, has his children baptized by
immersion by the Greek Patriarch, constituting them members
of the Greek Church, as is their Russian mother.

The orange trees are loaded with ripening fruit, and are
both useful and ornamental. What our guide called pepper
trees are much used for shade, and are very handsome.

Only a small part of Greece can be cultivated, the residue
being mountainous and swampy. Barley is headed out, and
looks very luxuriant. The beef is excellent, also the butter
and honey. One thinks of these things after being some
weeks in Turkey. It is asserted that there is no brigandage
in Greece now ; as an evidence, we are told if we were to visit
the field of Marathon, or take a drive in the regions adjacent
to this city, we must give a day's notice, and a guard of sol-
diers will be sent with us at the expense of the government,
which at least shows a determination to protect travelers.

I have not seen an American flag in the Mediterranean,
but yesterday I met the Admiral of the U. S. Mediterranean
fleet, and the Captain of the Wabash and several other ofii-
cers of the U. S. navy. They told me there were six U. S.
ships of war in the Mediterranean, but for some time past

PALESTINE TOUEISTS. 311

they have been off the coast of Spain, watching American
interests there. The Wahasli and another ship are now in
Greek waters.

When Athens contained 500,000 inhabitants, with tlie
temples on the Acropolis in their splendor, it was probably
worth visiting, especially if men spent their time as St. Paul
describes in Acts, chapter xvii. The ruins show an extensive
knowledge of architecture and the mechanic arts. An im-
mense Venetian tower somewhat disfigures the outlines of the
Acropolis. There are marks on the columns of the Parthenon
of the cannonade during the war of Greek independence, and
there is a pile of shells and cannon balls near the Propylea,
or entrance to the temples.

Though not with you in person at the Conference, we
were with you in spirit ; and while traveling to acquire gen-
eral information and to improve health, we ex^ercise our faith
by constant prayer to our Father in Heaven, that a double
portion of the Holy Spirit may rest upon you and President
Wells, and all the priesthood of Zion, and feel confident that
Zion's cause is daily strengthening, while Satan's kingdom is
growing more rotten and divided.

Our party all unite with me in a hearty God bless you

and all Israel.

GEOEGE A. SMITH.

312 CORKESPONDENCE OF

LETTER LXXVI.

At Athens — Plains of Attica — Hill of Mars — Galilee — Scriptural Reminiscen-
ces—Fountain of Dan— Cesarea Philippi — Damascus — An Unfortunate
Architect.

Athens, Greece, April 10th, 1873.

Editor Deseret News :

We are in the city of Athens, surrounded by the ruined
temples and crumbling walls of ancient Greece — have
stood on the lofty summit of the Acropolis, beside the marble
columns of the Parthenon, in the midst of broken pillars and
fallen temples, looking down on modern Athens, the Plains
of Attica, the famous Hill of Mars, and off on the " Flowery
Hymettus." We have met the King of Greece on the side-
walk of Athens, cane in hand, and in simple costume, like
an ordinary gentleman, have seen the nation's deputies debat-
ing in parliament, and have spent an evening at tea with our
American Minister, have sailed on the classical waters of the
Mediterranean, up the Archipelago, among its beautiful
islands. We have viewed Constantinople, its numerous
mosques with swelling domes and pointed minarets, and
promenaded its dark, winding avenues, through its wilder-
ness of bazars, have seen the Sultan — all, and a thousand
things else, since leaving Palestine. Therefore it is possible
an apology is due for so long continuing descriptions of the
Holy Land. Syria and Palestine, in many respects, we have
found the most interesting of any country we have visited.
As regards the character and condition of the people, its

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 313

natural scenery, its having formed the great theatre where
were displayed, during many centuries, the dealings of God
with favored Israel, as well as its being the opening scene of
the gospel dispensation ; besides embracing the sites and
melancholy ruins of ancient cities, so familiar to the biblical
student.

I now return to Galilee. I ascended the mountain above
'* The Fountain of the Fig Tree," to a point overlooking our
camp and commanding a view of the Plain of Gennesareth,
the Sea of Galilee, and the towering summit of Mount Her-
mon. Here I employed the passing moments in serious
reflections on the associations called forth by the peculiar
circumstances around. A great portion of the Saviour's life
was spent in the region around the Sea of Galilee. After
having been expelled from Nazareth, his native city, by his
own townspeople, he came down from the hilly country of
Galilee, and made his home upon these shores, chose his
Twelve Apostles, taught the people in their towns and
villages and on the seaside, as they flocked around him in
multitudes. He performed his mighty works in the cities of
Chorazin, Bethsaida and Capernaum, which stood on these
shores, filled with inhabitants. Eighteen centuries have
wrought marvellous and fearful changes in the scenery and
condition of this locality. When the Saviour and his apostles
were coasting along these shores, addressing anxious multi-
tudes, healing the sick, unstopping the ears of the deaf,
giving sight to the blind and raising the dead, Tiberias,
adorned with its numerous palaces and temples, stood in the
zenith of its glory, its citizens reveling in splendor and
luxury, and its many priests, in imposing costumes, full of
studied systematic knowledge of the law and the prophets,
and glowing with pious zeal to entrap and destroy the
Apostles and the Saviour of the world. Infamy covers the
memory of those priests, and not a single building of that
magnificent city remains, and nothing is seen but patches of

314 CORRESPONDENCE OF

low decaying walls, a few heaps of Lewn stone, and granite
columns strewed around. The country about the Sea of
Galilee was then densely populated — cities and towns occu-
pied its shores, the summits and slopes of the surrounding
hills. Bethsaida, Capernaum, Chorazin and many larger
cities, were teeming with inhabitants, and in the height of
prosperit3^ The Plain of Gennesareth, under the finest
state of cultivation, appeared like a paradise of gardens,
growing luxuriantly the choicest of fruits. This plain is
now overspread with thorns and tall nettles, and everywhere
marked by the finger of desolation. Those cities are now
left without an inhabitant, and their places covered with
heaps of decaying stones and prostrate walls. Capernaum
is so nearly annihilated that even the place it occupied is
subject of keenest dispute among travelers ; and even now,
I see before me in the vicinity of our tents, decaying relics,
considered by some to designate the locality of that ancient
city.

We left the Sea of Galilee, and continued our route
through an improving country, crossed an old Eoman road,
through fields of grain, beans and lentils, passing several
large camps of Bedouins, and for the niglit pitched our tents
at a large fountain, near which a company of Arabs were
engaged in digging a sect, to water a rich plain below. This
night was characterized by a concert of striking wildness,
performed by a great multitude of musical frogs in adjacent
marshes, joined by howling dogs in an Arab camp, mingled
with loud responses of the hoarse voices of our pack-mules,
combined with a hideous chorus of sharp yelping jackals in
the neighboring glens.

The next day we passed several long lines of black tents
of the Bedouins, and numerous herds of cattle feeding in the
plains and rich valleys. They were dwarfed, and were
degenerated like the inhabitants of the country. We
lunclied at the " Fountain of Dan," one of the great sources

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 315

of the Jordan, in tlie shade of a venerable tree, remarkable
for the immense area covered by its branches. On onr de-
parture, two Arabs stopped to enjoy their bread and cheese
in its cooling shade. While thus occupied they were sur-
prised by a marauding party of Bedouins, who relieved them
of all their little conveniences. While sympathizing in their
misfortunes, we were somewhat pleased that we had escaped
their experience. We camped at Cesarea Philippi, on the
bank of a rushing stream, in the midst of a beautiful grove.
Here is the great fountain which forms the main source of
the Jordan, the most celebrated of rivers. From this im-
mense fountain the waters collect, and soon form into a rapid
torrent, rushing along with great impetuosity, tumbling over
rocks, foaming and scattering its spray in all directions. At
this place, that remarkable conversation occurred between
Christ and his apostles, in which Peter affirmed that Jesus
was "■ the Christ, the Son of the living God." And Jesus
answered and said unto him, '* Blessed art thou, Simon
Barjona, for flesh and blood hath not revealed it unto thee,
but my Father which is in heaven: And I say also unto thee,
that thou art Peter, and upon this rock I will build my church
and the gates of hell shall not prevail against it." Thus
securing to every person the privilege of obtaining a like
revelation.

Concerning this city, Cesarea Philippi, we record the
same fate as followed the ancient city of Palestine — fragments
of walls, here and there a stray granite pillar, partially
concealed in the debris, hewn stones crumbling to pieces,
lying in heaps, or scattered over the ground.

The modern village consists of some forty houses massed
together with flat roofs, on which the dirty and filthy inhabi-
tants sleep in the summer season, to prevent being eaten by
flies and bedbugs, and bitten by scorpions, which they are
too lazy to destroy.

The following morning, leaving Cesarea Philippi, we

316 COERESPONDENCE OF

pass over a well watered country, whose inhabitants possess
more energy and enterprise, improving, in a small degree,
a few of the natural advantages which surround them.
We camped at night near what is said to have been
one of the burial places of Nimrod ; and the next day, after
an interesting ride of a few hours, on ascending an eminence
a panorama of great beauty and magnificence burst upon our
view— the city of Damascus, '^the Pearl of the East," its
wide extended plains, on which are a hundred villages,
numerous mosques looming up here and there, above the
immense spreading mass of broad, white roofs, their great
swelling domes, and tapering minarets, adorned with golden
crescents, the great Plain of Damascus, ornamented with rich
fields and beautiful gardens, groves of poplar and walnut,
orchards of tigs, apricots and pomegranates, and numerous
vineyards, sprinkled here and there with tall, conical
cypresses, and now and then a palm lifting its graceful head,
stretching east far away till lost beneath the gray horizon
northward, till reaching the mountains of Anti-Lebanon,
and away south, where it is bounded by the river Pbarpar,
of scripture memory. The picturesque appearance of the
circling hills and mountains casts an air of singular enchant-
ment around this profoundly magnificent scenery — the long,
bare ridge of Anti-Lebanon, the snow-capped peak of Her-
mon, distant some forty miles, a multitude of beautiful conical
hills ; and still beyond, a long ridge of pale blue mountains,
the '^ Hills of Bashan."

Passing along this plain, we entered Damascus, rode
through some of its principal streets and camped outside the
walls, on the banks of the Abana. Much of the richness
and beauty of the Plain of Damascus is owing to the invig-
orating influences of this stream of Bible celebrity, which
flows through it from west to east, and is conducted from its
channel, and carried on to the plain. Another mode of
irrigation, however, is adopted in places where the Abana

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 317

cannot be reached ; it being rather peculiar, I will describe
it. A well is first dug till water is discovered ; the slope of
the plain is then followed, when another is sunk, forty or
fifty yards distant ; the two are then connected by a subter-
ranean channel, leaving sufficient fall for the water to flow.
In this manner a long line of wells is constructed, and the
stream of water thus secured is at last on a level with the
surface, when it is ready to be used. The plain has a great
number of these curious aqueducts, several of which extend
along from two to three miles under ground. Where the
waters of one are spreading life and verdure over the surface
another below is gathering a new supply, obtaining it, in
some measure from the surplus of the former, which soaks
through the soil.

We called on the American Consul, who treated us
courteously and assisted us in accomplishing the object of our
visit to Damascus. Before we left, he spent an hour under
our tent in conversation mutually agreeable. We visited
Prince Abd-el Kader, who, during the invasion of Algiers by
the French, fought so valiantly to preserve the freedom of
his country. The interview was pleasant and interesting —
Mocha, in elegant cups, served in Oriental style, illustrated
his good feelings and respectful consideration.

Damascus is supposed to be nearly four thousand years
old, the oldest city in the world. Some aflirm that it was
founded by Uz, the son of Aram. Atleast, it was a noted
place in the days of Abraham— the steward of his house was
mentioned as "Eliezer of Damascus." The city is about
four miles in circumference, and contains one hundred and
fifty thousand inhabitants— about eighteen thousand of these
are Christians, six thousand Jews, and the rest Mahommedans.
The Christian population, previous to the massacre of 1860,
numbered about thirty-two thousand. During the three
days of those bloody and heart-rending scenes, it is supposed
that nearly three thousand Christians were murdered. Their

318 CORRESPONDENCE OF

private dwellings and churches were burned, their property
destroyed, and the survivors driven forth from their homes
penniless, with no means of support. Women and girls
were seized and compelled to suffer the most fearful of all
forms of slavery. Many of the buildings of these sufferers
still lie in ruins. In walking the streets of Damascus, among
the staring crowds, I imagined there was discernible, in the
sombre countenances of many of the people, similar feelings
to those which prompted the massacre of 1860, and that they
were only waiting an opportunity.

Damascus is noted for the number of its mosques. We
gained access to the principal one, partly through the
courtesy of our American Consul, and partly through the
stimulating influence of a golden Napoleon. On entering
we pulled off our boots and put on slippers. In Catholic
countries, on entering places of worship, taking off the hat
is the invariable requisition, while in Mahommedan jurisdic-
tion the temple of devotion cannot be entered without taking
*' off the shoes," while the cTiapeau may remain undisturbed.
This ancient structure, the " Grand Harem," as it is termed,
is second only to the Mosque of Omar. The Mosque and
square cover an area in length of eleven hundred feet, and
eight hundred feet in breadth. It has three styles of archi-
tecture, and is of great antiquity. It was originally Pagan,
then Syrian Christian, and now Mahommedan. On one side
it has a court surrounded by cloisters with arches in front,
resting on columns of granite, limestone and marble. It has
three minarets— the " Western Minaret," the " Minaret of the
Bride," and the '* Minaret of Jesus." According to Mahom-
medan tradition, when Christ comes to judge the world he
will first appear upon this minaret, bearing his name, he will
then enter the mosque, and summon to his presence men of
every denomination. Under this mosque is a cave containing
a casket of gold, in which is said to be the veritable head of
John the Baptist. Any doubts we may have cherished of its

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 319

identity we refrained from expressing, the same as when
shown similar curiosities in the more enlightened Christian
churches. We ascended one of the minarets, where we had
a splendid view of Damascus and its environs.

A gentleman who spent several weeks in Damascus,
hunting relics and curiosities, related to me the following
anecdote concerning the founding of an ancient mosque,
which stood in sight of our encampment. The Sultan,
wishing to erect a mosque, engaged a distinguished architect,
giving him instructions as to the dimension, style, and
location, fixing the site in the centre of Damascus. The
architect, having completed the work, repaired to the Sultan
to report his proceedings, and claim his reward. The Sultan
enquired if he had followed his directions. He replied that
he had built the mosque according to instructions in every
particular, that it was beautiful and magnificent, and he felt
assured the Sultan would be highly gratified ; but he had
ventured to depart in one item from his instructions — con-
sidering that Damascus had a tendency to spread in one
particular direction, he had located the mosque a short
distance towards that point, from the centre of the city. The
Sultan graciously complimented him on his peculiar fore-
sight, dismissed him with flattering expressions, told him to
go home, and a commissioner should be sent to examine his
work, and if approved, he should be abundantly rewarded.
No sooner, however, had he returned, than an order was sent
by the Sultan to have him beheaded immediately, and the
following inscription engraved upon his tomb, " Let this
architect's head be restored when this mosque becomes the
centre of Damascus." The gentleman said he read this
inscription, in Arabic, on a decaying tomb near the mosque.

The external view of the private dwellings of the people
is not inviting. The rough mud walls and projecting upper
chambers, supported by decaying timbers, have a singularly
rickety appearance. The entrance is by a miserable looking

320 COKKESPONDENCE OF

doorway through a narrow, winding passage, and not unfre-
quently through a stable -yard ; and around the whole is cast
an air of peculiar squalidness. The inside, however, exhibits
a better complexion, many are neat and comfortable, and
some approach to splendor and even gorgeousness, have an
open court with ornamented pavements, a marble basin in
the centre, surrounded with jets d^eau, citron, lemon and
orange trees, and flowering shrubs, affording shade and filling
the air with perfume. The apartments are furnished with
chairs and sofas, with soft cushions, sometimes covered with
embroidered silk and satin, the walls wainscotted, carved and
gilded, and the ceiling covered with ornaments.

A fine macadamized road leading over some fifty miles,
from Damascus to Beyrout, constructed by a French com-
pany, is the only decent road in Syria or Palestine. We
passed over this thoroughfare through an interesting country,
possessing natural scenery of peculiar beauty and grandeur,
arriving at Beyrout, a seaport on the Mediterranean, in
renewed health and vigor, gratified and instructed by our
tour through Syria and Palestine.

LOEENZO SNOW.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 321

LETTER LXXVII

Leave Constantinople— Pirseus— Classical Ruins— The Greek Parliament—
The Acropolis by Moonlight.

Athens, Geeece, April 11th, 1873.
To My Beloved Family :

I was in Constantinople only four days— sight-seeing is
hard work when well followed. That is a great city, con-
taining many objects of historic interest.

We left Constantinople on the 5th, arriving at Syra on the
evening of the 6th, being on the same steamship we had
sailed on from Beyront to Constantinople. We have had
very fine weather and smooth sea. We arrived in the Piraeus
on the morning of the 7th. It is a beautiful land-locked har-
bor, which has been rendered famous by history and song,
since the days of Theseus. Five miles' carriage ride on a
good road through cultivated but unfenced lands, brought us
to our hotel in modern Athens. The city contains about
50,000 inhabitants, has many well built houses, and wide,
well paved, clean streets, which contrast favorably with the
narrow ways and crooked filthy streets of Jerusalem and
Damascus, and other Turkish towns.

To-day I visited the Stadium, the place where the Olympic
games were formerly performed once in four years. King
George has renewed these games, and about 20,000 people
witnessed the performance of wrestling, boxing, jumping,
leaping, foot-racing, pole-climbing, &c. The successful
competitors received their prizes from the hand of the Queen.

322 COEEESPONDENCE OF

The amphitheatre is dug in an oval shape, with seats like
stairs on each side, and could seat 50,000 or 60,000 people,
and all see the exercises. I also visited the old baths, which
have recently been dug up — immense floors of mosaic have
been uncovered ; they were some five feet underground.
They were a very convenient set of baths.

I then went to the Areopagus, climbed to the summit of
Mars Hill, which was somewhat difficult, the stones having
been worn so smooth they were slippery. I stood on the
stone which our guide said St. Paul stood on when he preached
to the Athenians. Acts 17th chapter. I found a French bar-
ber and had my beard sheared.

I re-visited the Temple of Jupiter Olympus ; sixteen
columns fifty-two feet high still remain. Originally there
were 124, ten feet square at the base and six and a half in the
shaft. It was commenced 536 years before Christ and
finished 130 after Christ, making over 600 years in building.

I then visited the Temple of Theseus, which retains a
portion of its marble roof, which is the best preserved of
any ruins I have seen.

I then went to the Greek Parliament, which is in session.
We presented a note from the American Minister, Mr. John
M. Francis, of New York. We were immediately seated in
the Diplomatic Gallery. About one hundred deputies were
in the seats, the King's ministers were occupying their desks.
A spirited debate was in progress in relation to a claim on the
National Treasury, the payment of which was contested.
The President governed the Assembly by ringing a bell, in-
stead of using the gavel. The appearance of the Deputies
was quite democratic, each one seeming to dress according to
his taste or his custom at home. Some of them wore white
skirts, which our guide told us was the Albanian dress.
Dark hair and eyes predominated. The galleries, except the
one we occupied, were crowded to suffocation. The question
at issue seemed to excite deep interest both with the Deputies

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 323

and in the galleries. The President had to jingle his bell
several times, to prevent interruption of tlie Speaker.

A handsome new building is nearly finished to accom-
modate the Parliament, which when done will make them
much more comfortable.

This evening, I have arranged to visit the Acropolis by
moonlight. I do not intend to imitate Mark Twain in steal-
ing anybody's grapes, and consequently have no fear of
being overtaken by the police.

On the evening of the 9th we were invited to tea at 8
o'clock p. m. at the residence of Mr. Francis, the American
Minister. We met there Mr. Goodenough, the American
Consul General of Constantinople. We had a pleasant
visit. Eliza had a long conversation with Mrs. P. , I with Mr.
G., Brother Snow with Mr. P., and Brother Schettler with
Charles S. , son of the Minister. They all seemed deeply inter-
ested in our conversation, " Mormonism " being the sole topic
of the evening To-day Mrs. Prancis called on Sister Eliza.

I expect that we shall leave here to-morrow about 4
o'clock p. m., and arrive at Trieste on the 17th, when I expect
more letters.

Carriage hire here with good horses and seats for four, is
three francs per hour. A guide wlio speaks English, eight
francs per day. Hotel des Etrangers gives us two meals per
day, room and lights for about three and a quarter dollars.
Every place we visit costs extra— for instance, when we
visited Parliament, the man who unlocked the box must have
his fee. Beggars are not near as numerous as they were in
Italy and Turkey. The Greek kingdom has doubled its pop-
ulation since its organization. The King and Queen are well
liked and are doing all they know how to do, to develop the
interests of the country. His garden contains some beauti-
ful orange trees, loaded with ripe fruit, also date palm trees.

GEOEGE A. SMITH.

324 CORRESPONDENCE OF

LETTER LXXVIII.

Beyrout— Protestant College and vSchools— Embark For Constantinople-
Island of Cyprus— Mount Olympus— Sea of Marmora — Arrival at the
Turkish Metropolis— Leave for Athens — Greek Independence Day.

Athens, Greece, April 12tli, 1873.
Editor Deseret News:

In my last I closed with our arrival at Beyrout. The
locality of this city is very beautiful : it stands on a promon-
tory of a triangular form, the apex projecting into the Med-
iterranean, and its base extending along the foot of the
Lebanon mountains. Groves of pine and mulberry are seen
on the rising hills, and covering the mountain acclivities ;
and here and there groups of palm and cypresses. Our hotel,
situated close upon the shore, commands a splendid view of
the Bay of St. George, on which are floating ships and steam-
ers, the Mediterranean, the finest portion of the city, and
some of the picturesque scenery of Lebanon. It is a mental
luxury to look from my window, or out from the open bal-
cony, and contemplate these lovely scenes, wrought by the
hand of God, and by his inspirations in man.

The city contains over fifty thousand inhabitants — one-
third of these are Mussulmen, the rest Christians, Jews and
strangers. Its numerous shops, capacious warehouses, its
busy quay and numbers of bazars, ships and steamers,
exhibit life and commercial enterprise, forming a striking
contrast with the old, threadbare, worn-out, and moth-eaten
systems of doing business, still practised in the towns and

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 325

cities of Palestine. With regard to foreign trade and com-
merce, Beyrout stands foremost in Syria ; the largest imports
are for Damascus, it forming the seaport for that city. The
chief article of export is raw silk, the trade in which is fast
increasing, and every year becoming more important. In the
vicinity of the city, and through the region of Lebanon, the
country is being filled with mulberry orchards ; and little
doubt is entertained of its proving a permanent source of
business and profit.

The new portion of the city is handsomely built, the
private dwellings and public edifices are chiefly constructed
of stone, substantially built, with some artistic display.
Some of the streets are broad and well paved, and nearly
everywhere signs of imjprovement and enterprise are visible,
insomuch that one could almost fancy himself in a European
city.

American and English missionaries have established a
Protestant college and several schools in Beyrout and in
Lebanon. These institutions are accessible to students of
every sect and party who are willing to conform to the regu-
lations, which are skilfully arranged with a view to prosely-
ting. All boarders are required to be present at morning and
evening prayers, and attend Protestant worship, and college
classes upon the Scriptures, during the week. The Bible is
also used as a text book for common instructions, &c. These
educational departments are sustained by contributions from
Europe and America. Some seventy students attend the Pro-
testant college. The British Syrian schools at Beyrout num-
ber over six hundred scholars, and including the branch
schools in Lebanon, rising one thousand.

March 25th, we embarked on an Austrian Lloyd steamer,
for Constantinople. We passed the Island of Cyprus, had a
view, from the deck, of Mount Olympus, the summit of
which was once crowned with the celebrated Temple of Venus ;
passed the Island of Ehodes, where we saw the fortifications

326 CORRESPONDENCE OF

of the "Knights of St. John," their bastions, battlements,
overhanging buttresses and lofty towers. The Island of Pat-
mos was pointed out in the distance, where the Revelator
John received his wonderful visions. We called at Smyrna,
the city honored with many euphonious names — "The Orna-
ment of Asia," "The Crown of Ionia," "Sweet smelling
Smyrna," &c. ; passed the Island of Mytilene, Tenedos ;
went through the Dardanelles, and were shown the place
where Leander, and afterward Lord Byron, performed feats
of swimming ; then steamed over the Sea of Marmora, and at
length arrived at Constantinople, the celebrated capital of
the Ottoman Empire.

The port was crowded with ships, steamers, barges, ferries
and small boats, so numerous that thej^ appeared as if swarm-
ing on the waters, numbering many thousands. This mag-
nificent bay accommodates twelve hundred sail, and is suffi-
ciently deep to float ships of war of the largest magnitude.

For advantages of trade and commerce, and for beauty
of situation, Constantinople undoubtedly excels all other
cities in the world. It stands upon two continents, Europe
and Asia, and upon two seas, the Black Sea and the Sea of
Marmora. Its population is variously estimated at from five
hundred thousand to eight hundred thousand ; of these about
three hundred thousand are Greeks and Armenians, sixty
thousand Jews, and thirty thousand Europeans. It contains
forty colleges, one thousand mosques, many Jewish syna-
gogues, and numerous Catholic churches.

We visited the American Minister, and spent a few hours
in his company very pleasantly. President Smith has made
it an invariable rule to call on our American Ministers and
Consuls, and with an exception, we have been courteously
and kindly received, and in several instances our company
has been solicited. Our cards, and our letters of introduction
from President Young, on every occasion, have been noticed
and honored.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 327

While in Constantinople we visited the principal mosques,
the tombs of the sultans, the offices of the Sublime Porte,
the Treasury, Armory, Mint, Eepository of Antiquities, the
bazars and the Palace of the Osmanli Sultans, the Royal
Seraglio. The Mosque of St. Sophia, which we inspected, in
several respects is the most remarkable edilice intlie Turkish
Empire. It is three hundred and lifty feet in length, by two
hundred and thirty-five in breadth. It was built for a Catholic
temple in the sixth century, by the Emperor Justinian, and
was sixteen years in course of construction. At that time it
was celebrated as the most remarkable and magnificent tem-
ple in the whole empire. In the fifteenth century, it was
converted into a mosque, through the conquering sword of
Mohammed the Second, at the capture of Constantinople. It
has two flags suspsnded on either side of the pulpit, indicat-
ing the victory of Islam over Judaism and Christianity, and
the Koran over the Old and New Testaments. The roof is
constructed in such a manner that it exhibits nine cupolas,
the great dome forming the highest summit and so arranged
that it appears as if suspended in the air; the whole seen
together presents an appearance of singular grandeur and
magnificence. The walls and numerous arches are built of
brick ; the interior of the building is adorned with the richest
and most costly materials— granite, marble and porphyry of
every description ; black marble with white veins, white mar-
ble with rose-colored stripes, green and blue marble, and Bos-
phorus marble with black veins. We counted eight large por-
phyry columns which were taken from the*' Temple of the Sun,"
at Baalbec, and six or eight of green columns of porphyry,
which our guide informed us were from the Temple of Diana
at Ephesus. The floor is formed of variegated marble with
waving lines, imitating the movings of the ocean. The tiles
which cover the arches of the cupolas were made at Rhodes,
of chalk- white clay of peculiar lightness, being only one-
twelfth of the usual weight ; and had inscribed upon them,

328 COREESPONDENCE OF

" God has founded it, and it will not be overthrown : God
will suj)port it in the blush of the dawn." It has sixteen
gates of bronze, adorned with crosses ; the spaces between
them are decorated with beautiful marble, and above them
are mosaic pictures. The central dome is one hundred and
seven feet in diameter, with a rise of forty-six feet, and with
an elevation of one hundred and eighty feet above the ground,
with semi-domes on two sides, of equal diameter. The grand
dome is supported by arches resting on four immense piers,
supported by abutments. Its numerous arches, pillars and
cupolas, are all inlaid with marble mosaics of the most beau-
tiful designs. In the cupola, are inscribed the following
words from the Koran : " God is the light of the heavens and
the earth." On ceremonial occasions, during the night, these
expressive words are illuminated by thousands of lamps,
suspended in circles, one above another, which, aided by
attachments of ostrich eggs, and quantities of tinsel, and
numerous artificial flowers, are said to produce a wonderful
effect.

One hundred architects, during the construction of this
mosque, superintended ten thousand masons, five thousand
working on one side, the other half at the same time, engaged
on the opposite side of the building. It is said^of the
Emperor, that during the progress of the work, he paid
occasional visits, to inspire the workmen, dressed in coarse
linen, a cloth around his head, and a rough stick in his hand.
When the walls had reached about six feet above the ground,
an expenditure of about twenty -two tons of gold had been
incurred ; and a traditionary account is given, that when
this extraordinary structure had been completed as far as the
cupolas, the funds were exhausted, and the people groaning
and murmuring under the heavy burden of imposed taxes ;
whereupon an angel appeared, and, leading the mules of the
treasury to a subterranean vault, loaded them with four tons
of gold !

PALESTINE TOUEISTS. 329

We went aboard an Austrian Lloyd steamer, April nth,
and steered for Athens, the capital of Greece. In going
down the Archipelago, the usual dulness and monotony of
ocean life was partially relieved by the changing scenery and
charming views, constantly exhibited on the numerous
islands we were passing. Syra especially attracted attention —
the picturesque appearance of its capital city of thirty thou-
sand people, drew expressions of surprise and admiration.
Stopping a few hours at anchorage, gave opportunity of
inspecting this locality. The city is built on a gigantic, con-
ical hill, rising steeply from the shore in a semi-circle, over a
mile in width, extending to an immense height ; its narrow
and pointed summit crowned with a large cathedral ; the
whole hill, with its indentures and depressions, covered from
base to summit witli elegant buildings painted white, with
green window shutters, blue cornices and balustrades.

It chanced to be a holiday with the Greeks— they were
celebrating their independence. Flags were floating from the
tops of buildings, and tall masts of the ships in the harbor.
At night, before our departure there was a grand illumination
in which the entire city, and ships at anchor, participated.
The appearance, altogether, was very striking.

We arrived at Piraeus, the seaport of Athens, 7th ult.,
having experienced a favorable passage. We took carriage
and drove to Athens, five miles distant, over a beautiful road,
skirted with poplar and pepper trees.

LOKENZO SNOW.

330 COKRESPONDENCE OF

LETTER LXXIX

Palestine Tour Completed — Beyrout — Constantinople — Reminiscences of
Crimean War— The Pi rteus— Athens, Ancient and Modern.

Athens, Greece, April 12th, 1873.
Editor Ogden Junction;

Presuming that you feel a kindly interest in the progress
of President Smith and party, I take the liberty of dropping
you a few hasty lines— the gentlemen being too much engaged
otherwise.

We completed our Palestine tour, arriving at Beyrout on
the 21st of Marcli, after having experienced the comforts and
discomforts of tent life twenty-nine days and horseback rid-
ing twenty -one. We were two weeks earlier than common
tourists, and, as the season proved, much to our advantage.
Had we ordered the weather to suit our particular circum-
stances, it could not have been more favorable. Most of the
storm was in the night, and our tents were sufficiently pro-
tective to meet emergencies. One forenoon was rainy at
intervals, which, with the exception of one slight shower, was
all the storm we had when out ; and the temperature was
just the thing for horsemanship, with, in two or three instan-
ces, slight specimens of the scorching heat that late tourists
must undergo. We were told that where we beheld fresh,
luxuriant herbage, six weeks later would present nothing but
dry, parched and crisped vegetation.

Bej^rout is quite an improvement on all the towns and

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 381

cities of Palestine and Syria we have seen. It contains many
fine buildings, and some of its streets are, at least, respect-
able. There the mulberry is extensively cultivated, and this
city has superseded Damascus in silk manufactures.

On the 25th we left for Constantinople, where we arrived
on the 1st of April, having passed tlie islands of Cyprus, on
which we had a view of Mount Parnassus, the ancient site of
the celebrated Temple of Venus— Rhodes, Cos, and Scio—
Samos, the birthplace of Pythagoras, and, for a long time,
the residence of Herodotus, and where he composed most
of his history. The steamer anchored at Smyrna, which
aflorded us a short visit to that place of Bible celebrity.

Constantinople, with its Golden Horn and the Bosphorus,
with their ship-crowned bosoms, is magnificent, and occupies
a position of which any earthly monarch might be proud as
a site for a capital. It has a splendid harbor, but like all
Eastern ports is destitute of a landing — probably this seem-
ing negligence on the part of the Government is a policy for
the support of the boatmen of the eighty thousand small
boats or gondolas that ply on these waters. We were told
that a somewhat similar protective system exists in Constan-
tinople in behalf of the water-carriers, i. e. a tax on aqueducts,
cisterns, pipes, &c., for the general supply of water.

The city and environs, including Constantinople proper,
Pera, Gallatin and Sophana, these three being on the opposite
side of the Golden Horn, contain one million and seventy-
five thousand inhabitants — many very large and beautiful
buildings, but the streets, after the order of those in Pales-
tine, a sheer disgrace. We had a fine view of the exterior of
the Sultan's Palace, which is very attractive — the style, though
very ornamental, is exceedingly chaste. It stands on the
shore of the Bosphorus, opposite Scutari. The city is liber-
ally ornamented with mosques, domes and minarets, the usual
diadems of Turkish towns, and is also much beautified with
many tall cypress trees; most of them are in the burial places.

332 COKEESPONDENCE OF

it being here a Moslem requisition that both at the birth and
death of a child a tree shall be planted, which accounts for
the multiplicity which decorate this city.

We left on the morning of the 5th, and as the steamer
clipped its way into the broad waters, I stood on the upper
deck, and as I took a most delightful view of the city and
surroundings, my attention was attracted to the Asiatic side,
where, in full view, stands the immense barracks, which, dur-
ing the Crimean war, was used for a hospital, and in which
Miss Nightingale performed those benevolent nursing services
for which she has been justly celebrated.

Early on the morning of the 7th the steamer cast anchor
in front of the Grecian Piraeus, and, as usual, we were
rowed ashore, took carriage, and rode five miles to the beau-
tiful city of Athens, which, once a place of great renown,
sank into obscurity, weltering under the hand of oppression,
but recently has been so far restored as to present altogether
the appearance of a fine European city. We are informed
that the rebuilding of Athens has been done mostly by Ger-
mans, who constitute most of the present foreign population.

We have seen some grand ruins — enough to give a per-
son of large and active imaginative powers a faint idea of
the wonderful magnificence, beauty and splendor of ancient

Athens.

ELIZA E. SNOW.

PALESTINE TOUKISTS. 333

LETTER LXXX.

The following is a portion of a letter from President
George A. Smith to a member of his family —

Sunday at Sea — The Austrian Lloyd Steamers— An Immense Ship of -wai-—
Leave for Verona— The Quadrilateral— Field of Solferino— Tomb of Romeo.

Hotel au Grand Paris, Verona,

Italy, April 20th, 1873.

We were five days on the waters between Athens and
Trieste; we spent all day Sunday on the steamer in the
harbor of Syra, waiting for the arrival of the Jttpiter from
Constantinople, and changed to it late in the evening; it was
dark and the water somewhat rough, and the process of
changing steamers in a small boat was somewhat difficult,
but was made without accident.

We have had exceeding fine weather at sea, being
altogether some fifteen days since we left Brindisi en route
for Egypt, and I feel to speak well of the Austrian Lloyd
steamers, slow and poking as they go, paddle, paddle, they
carry us safely around. For about fourteen liours after I left
Syra I was sea-sick, after which my disposition to cast up
accounts ceased ; this was caused by a fresh breeze ahead.
We spent one day at Trieste, partly rainy, in visiting the
wonders of that commercial port of the Austrian Empire. A
number of steamers and a great number of sailing vessels
are constantly there. The Austrian government is building
an immense ship of war, the largest of her navy, which
looks like a floating palace, and seems to be a heavy drain

334 CORKESPONDENCE OF

on the Imperial treasury to very little purpose. The streets
are well paved, raostly with good square stone blocks, which
contrast tinely with the rough, narrow, ill paved streets of
Turkish cities. Our hotel de ville was good, but we had to
go up five flights of marble steps to the last floor, they say-
ing they had to put us there because they had 300 guests.
We visited an old cathedral very richly furnished and
decorated, the columns being clothed in red velvet jackets.
We also visited an old Roman tower, a collection of marbles
recently dug out of the ground, the dockyard of the Austrian
Lloyd's Company, where was the iron frame of a large
steamer in course of construction. This company are said to
have 80 steamships afloat, and purpose increasing to 100.

On the morning of the 19th we took car for Verona,
passed through a very delightful country in a high state of
cultivation, producing a great variety of ^clioice things. It
seemed a pleasant change to again get on a railroad ; we had
to change cars twice during the day, and at one station had
our baggage examined by the custom officers of Victor
Emanuel ; they were very polite and gave us as little trouble
as possible consistent with their duties. We have had no
occasion to find fault with the treatment of customs ofiicers
during our journey, and I have only once been asked to
show my passport, which was on landing in Egypt.

Ever since I landed in Palestine I have been exceedingly
free from colds, affections of the throat, and rheumatic
affection in my shoulder and arm, of which I com-
plained last winter, in Utah ; the affection of the throat that
I complained of at Corfu soon passed away. Sight-seeing is
hard work, and I am heavy, and tire out without being able
to accomplish as much as I would like to. It takes consider-
able time to form* acquaintance with the people and institu-
tions of any country we visit, and on that account our
acquaintance is necessarily limited.

Tliis place is one of the four which were at the angles

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 335

of what was termed the "quadrilateral;" it was anciently
fortified by the Eoman emperors ; portions of their walls
and gates remain to the present. In 1815 it was in possession
of the Austrians, who fortified it with the greatest care and
skill they possessed. From a hill in a highly cultivated
garden we had a view of the positions of these forts, which
seem to have done them very little good in maintaining their
supremacy in Italy. In plain sight from the hill was the
field of Solferino, where Napoleon III and Francis Joseph of
Austria contested in a great battle, engaging some 400,000
men on both sides ; " tlie result ceded this region to Victor
Emanuel, and it now belongs to the kingdom of Italy. We
also had a view of another great battle-field of 1866, between
the Austrians and Italians, and though the Austrians were
victorious, the Italians, being the allies of Prussia, secured
as the result of this campaign, the cession of Venetia, and
Italian unity. We visited the old Roman amphitheatre, a
large portion of which is still preserved ; the marble seats
now remaining would seat over 20,000 people, and when
perfect it was said to accommodate, sitting and standing,
some 75,000 ; it is said to have been built somewhere between
A. D. 80 and 284. We have also visited several fine gardens,
in one of them was said to be the tomb of Romeo, the fabled
hero of one of Shakespere's plays.

We take rail for Munich, in the morning.

GEORGE A. SMITH.

336 CORRESPONDENCE OF

LETTER LXXXI.

At Athens— Classical Ruins— Peculiar Customs Among the Greeks— Funeral
Ceremony.

Munich, Bavaeia, April 22iid, 1873.
Editor Deseret News :

I wrote you last, on our arrival at Athens. The whole of
that modern city has been built within the last forty-five
years. It is situated about five miles from the sea, on the
Plain of Attica. Many of the buildings possess some archi-
tectural beauty, which, combined with their yellow- washed
stucco, present an agreeable and lively appearance. Olive
groves, the scene of Plato's meditations, stretching along the
plain, the trees and shrubbery in the Queen's garden, an
orange grove fronting the King's Palace, pepper trees skirt-
ing the boulevards, a few cypresses and Italian poplars,
form the principal foliage which is seen in and around
Athens. The Queen's garden attached to the Palace is a
beautifnl enclosure of several acres, extending along the
boulevards, and partially encircling the Palace, and adorned
with rich shrubbery, flower-beds, luxurious foliage, grass-
plats, artificial waters, and winding gravel walks. Fronting
the palace, is a small, enclosed area decorated with orange
trees, in the centre is a fine fountain surrounded with seats
for the convenience of promenaders. The trees were con-
stantly dropping their golden fruit here and there, on the
gravelly walks, but left untouched by the multitude of

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 337

pedestrians. The King's Palace is the most conspicuous
building in Athens. It is located on a gently rising eminence
at the foot of Mount Lycabettis, and facing what is termed
the *' Square of the Constitution." On this square, Septem-
ber, 1843, the people and troops assembled, and continued
ten hours without any act of violence, waiting for King Otho
to grant the request of their leaders in signing the Constitu-
tional Charter, to which, at last, he reluctantly consented.
The front of the Palace has a portico constructed of marble —
the walls of the building are composed of broken limestone
faced with cement.

The Acropolis is a vast rock, rising to the height of three
hundred and fifty feet above the plain, with a flat summit,
about one thousand feet long by five hundred broad. The
Areopagus, or Hill of Mars, is a lower eminence, forming a
kind of offshoot to the Acropolis. The remains of the
celebrated Temple of Jupiter Olympus occupy a broad square
of ground a little eastward of the Acropolis. Fifteen
Corinthian columns of immense size are now standing, out
of one hundred and twenty-four, which formerly covered a
space of three hundred and fifty-four feet, by a breadth of
one hundred and seventy-one feet. These marble columns
are fifty-five feet in height, and six feet four inches in
diameter. One of the marble beams, supported by tliese
gigantic columns, is said to weigh twenty-three tons. We
noticed one of the pillars which had been thrown down in a
high wind— it is formed of eighteen sections. It is estimated
that three thousand dollars would be required to set up these
sections, and restore the pillar to an upright position, which will
afford a faint idea of the cost of erecting the entire building.

We ascended the Acropolis to inspect its stupendous
and melancholy ruins. When it stood in the fulness of its
splendor, the whole summit was occupied with temples,
sanctuaries, statuary and monuments — only sufficient now
remain to show their former grandeur and magnificence.

338 CORRESPONDENCE OF

There were the marble temples of Minerva, Propylaca,
Wingless Victory, the Erectheum and the Parthenon— also
gigantic statues of Grecian deities, from forty to sixty feet in
height, on lofty pedestals decorated with ivory and gold,
glistening in the sunlight. Some of these colossal statues
could be seen from the decks of vessels, standing a long
distance out at sea. A few massive columns of temples are
seen sustaining huge marble beams, over twenty feet in
length. In the Propylacan Temple, quantities of black
marble were used in its construction, and, the same as other
heathen sanctuaries, was adorned with costly paintings and
historical decorations. The entire expense of this building
has been estimated at about two and a half millions of dol-
lars. The Parthenon is built entirely of marble, and is two
hundred and twenty-eiglit feet long, by one hundred and one
broad. Its ceiling is supported the same as that of the
Propylacan, by huge marble beams, resting on massive
columns. One of the door-ways is thirty-three feet in height
and sixteen feet wide ; the head of the door-way is formed of
marble lintels, nearly twenty-seven feet in length. The
Erectheum has a number of standing columns, supporting
massive marble beams and lintels over door-ways ; most of
this temple, however, lies in a heap of superb ruins. The
frieze of this building was composed of black marble,
adorned with figures in low relief, in white marble. The
surface of the Acropolis is mostly spread with ruins, broken
pillars, pieces of entablatures and sculptured fragments.

The Greeks have some very peculiar customs. When,
after a lengthy absence, friends meet, or when parting for a
considerable time, it is usual to kiss one another on the
cheek. I have noticed in Athens, the same as in Italy, two
gentlemen meeting on the public street, with hats off, de-
monstrating their affection by hugging and kissing each other
in the most violent manner. Many of the Greeks have a
habit of carrying in the hand strings of glass or wooden

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 339

beads, which they manipulate or work with their fingers,
while walking the streets, or in conversation, the same as the
gentleman his watchguard, or twirls his cane, or the lady
flirts her fan, having no religious reference, as the Catholic
in counting his beads.

It is customary to make the sign of the cross in the
following manner : Uniting the tips of the thumb and first
two fingers of the right hand, and touching alternately the
forehead, navel, right breast and left breast, three times in
rapid succession, whenever passing a church, seeing the
cross, or hearing the name of the Saviour spoken. They
have a singular form for burying the dead. I witnessed the
ceremony of burying two persons, who apparently had
occupied respectable positions in society. The processions
were preceded by boys in white robes, carrying a crucifix
and other ecclesiastic insignia of considerable splendor,
followed by priests, chanting in a low, monotonous, melan-
choly tone, while all hats were off, and every hand was
making the sign of the cross, as the solemn train was passing
along the crowded thoroughfare; the corpse, with ghastly
features exposed to full view in an open coffin, covered with
white cloth, variously decorated ; the lid of the coffin painted
with a large cross was carried along in the procession, in an
upright position. The corpse was dressed in the clothing
customarily worn while living ; the head partially elevated,
and the hands folded in front of a picture of the Virgin,
placed on his breast.

Returning from the Museum, we met the King of Greece,
who was walking leisurely along the sidewalk, among the
citizens, dressed in plain, ordinary costume. His appearance
is rather prepossessing ; his figure is slight — of medium size,
light complexion, and eyes expressive of both kindness and
determination. He has the reputation of honesty and frank-
ness— without affectation, and his domestic life above reproach ,
and makes the welfare and improvement of his people a

340 CORKESPONDENCE OF

direct aim and constant study. He is about twenty-eight
years of age — married the daughter of the Grand Duke
Constantine of Russia, and has a family.

The Greek Church and Greek nation may be considered
synonymous words, as one cannot exist without the other,
being interwoven like cotton and woollen threads in a garment.
It is a strong prevailing feeling in the people, that, as the
church cannot exist without the people, so the people cannot
exist as a nation without the church. The banners of the
Revolution were constantly blest by the Bishops, and among
the first victims of that Revolution was the Greek Patriarch of
Constantinople. In fact the first Article of the Constitution
makes the Greek Church tLe corner stone of the political
fabric. It is as follows : " The dominant religion of Greece
is that of the Orthodox Oriental Church of Christ. All other
recognized religions are tolerated, and the free exercise of
worship is protected by law. Proselytism and all other
interferences, prejudicial to the dominant religion, are for-
bidden." Therefore any attempt made by Protestants, in the
way of proselyting, is regarded with suspicion.

President Smith called on Mr. Francis, the American
Minister, who received him courteously, and requested him
and party to spend an evening at his residence. We Lad a
pleasant time with the Minister, his lady and son, also Mr.
Goodenough, the Consul General of Constantinople, who
was spending a few days in Athens. In conversation with
these people, we gathered interesting items in reference to
modern Greece, the king and government. Mr. Francis' fine
abilities and conversational talent draw around him many
visitors, especially Americans. Mrs. Francis is a lady of
intelligence, of lively disposition and polite manners.

We left Athens on the evening of the 12th ult., on an
Austrian Lloyd steamer for Trieste, Austria, where we
arrived on the 17th, after a pleasant passage. This is a
charming town, built in the form of a crescent, on rounded

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 341

and conical hills and mountain acclivities. It is surrounded
with beautiful scenery. The city has a population of about
one hundred thousand. We were shown many objects of
attraction and curiosity.

The 19th, we took train for Munich, the capita] of Ba-
varia, through the Brenner Pass, by the way of Verona, a
town in Italy. Our route led through an interesting country
under an excellent state of tillage— the landscape covered
with verdure, and rich in luxurious foliage, the apple,
plum, apricot, cherry and chestnut adorned with blossoms,
and the vine clothed with leaves, patches of clover, grain in
full growth, green pastures and meadows, and off in the
distance a long high range of mountains, with summits
mantled in snow. We arrived at Verona in the evening and
remained over Sunday.

The country from Verona to Munich is in the highest
state of cultivation, abounding in fields of grain, vegetable
gardens, fruit orchards, and vineyards; nearly the whole
region is dotted with walnut, apple, cherry, apricot, plum
and mulberry, the grapevine stretching from one tree to
another, clinging to the branches, while below flourish
luxuriant gardens, or waving grain. We passed over a
narrow, winding vale, extending over seventy miles, skirted
by lofty mountains, and adorned with towns and villages,
and cliurches, here and there, on high plateaus above the
plain ; streamlets are seen now and then dashing and foam-
ing over rocky steeps, producing cascades of great beauty
and grandeur. We noticed images of the Saviour, nearly
life-size, representing his crucifixion, and secured to posts
placed here and there along the public road. Women were
laboring in the fields, driving plow, spading ground, scatter-
ing manure, and some in tops of trees, trimming the branches.

Monday evening, 21st ult., we arrived in Munich.

LOKENZO SNOW.

342 CORRESPONDENCE OF

LETTER LXXXII.

Brigandage in Greece — The Classical Ruins of Athens — Leave the Piraeus —
The Austrian Lloyds — At Trieste — Verona — Ancient Roman Amphithea-
tre—The Tyrol— Munich.

Hotel Four Seasons, Munich, Bavaria,

April 22nd, 1873.

President Brigham Young:

Dear Brother — On the ^lOth inst. I wrote to you from
Athens. We completed onr visit to that memorable capital,
and read up in the news received just as we were leaving
Constantinople, and closed our correspondence to date. The
Turks and Greeks have failed to agree on a plan to extermi-
nate brigandage, as we learn from the Levant Herald^ a
paper published in English in Constantinople. The Greek
government is doing all it" can to make travel through the
country safe. We were assured by the authorities that it
was safe ; that if we wished to visit the field of Marathon,
Eleusis, the Straits of Thermopylae, or Corinth, if we would
give one day's notice, they would furnish a guard of soldiers
free of cost. We saw proper not to run any risks, as we
were told that the brigands had simply fled across the
line into Turkey, and passed back and forward at their plea-
sure.

It is considered quite a treat to visit the Acropolis and
other ruins by moonlight ; the evening we visited the ruins
the moon was nearly fall, and shining clear and bright. The
fifteen standing columns of Jupiter Olympus display their

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 343

architectural modesty very soothingly to the eye by moon-
light. The sixteenth column, which was blown down in 1852,
or, as the guide said, was thrown down by an eartliquake,
was composed of fifteen pieces, and in all was some 58 feet
high, and about six and a half in diameter. When the 124
pillars of this temple were all standing, the architrave in place
and the marble roof in perfect order, as it was when com-
pleted and dedicated by the Emperor Hadrian, it must have
been a magnificent structure ; and it had been about 600
years in building. The view of the Acropolis by moonlight
was very pleasant, as also tlie view of the city, which has
been mostly rebuilt in the European style within the last 30
years. The Greek government keeps a night and day guard
around these old temples, and is making numerous excava-
tions in different parts of the city and vicinity, having disen-
tombed parts of the ancient walls of the city, numerous
burial places and tombs, baths, and the stadium of Lycurgus,
discovering statues, monuments, and ornamental work,
with inscriptions, from which they can determine dates, and
the names of parties and other interesting facts. A building
is in course of construction, into which it is designed to
gather such of the more valuable of these marbles and
other works of art into a national museum of antiquities,
which will give additional advantage to the student of archae-
ology.

Much of Greece would be very fruitful if it had rains,
but it is a very dry and hot country in the summer, but said
to be very pleasant during the winter. Where water can be pro-
cured for irrigation, it produces a great variety of choice
fruits, vegetables, and ornamental trees.

We steamed from the harbor of Piraeus on the evening of
the 12th. We had a nice view of the Straits of Salamis,
remembered as the site of the defeat of the fleet of Xerxes
by the Greeks in the Persian war. We changed from the
steamer Wien, at Syra, to the Jupiter, and at about midnight

344 CORRESPONDENCE OF

on the 17th we arrived at the Hotel de Ville in Trieste,
Austria. The Austrian Lloyd steamers, in which we have
traveled since leaving Brindisi, Italy, are slow, but safe and
well conducted. Although that corapany run eighty steam-
ships, many of them large, all freight and passengers are
put on and off in small boats and barges, which is a slow
process, and very disagreeable and often dangerous to passen-
gers when the sea is rough. We should have gone ashore at
Cyprus and other points, had it not been for the danger of
being upset. Our steaming upon the Adriatic , Mediterranean ,
Ionian, ^gean, Archipelago, and the Sea of Marmora and
their tributaries was about fifteen days.

On arriving at Trieste we received the Weekly News of
March 5th, 12th, and 19th, and a Herald of the 22nd with
letters from our families. On the 18th we drove through that
commercial town, which shows manifest signs of prosperity
and a live business, it being the principal commercial outlet
of the Austrian Empire, and is said to contain 105,000 inhab-
itants.

On the 19th we traveled through a very fine country,
highly cultivated, to Verona, in Italy, where we spent the
Sabbath. Verona is one of the four fortified places formerly
termed the quadrilateral, and is fortified for miles with every
skilful device that the military engineers of Austria could
suggest, and was supposed to be impregnable. From a high
point, in a beautiful garden in the city, we saw the field upon
which was fought the battle of Solferino, which resulted in
transferring all these forts to the newly formed kingdom of
Italy. The country is very handsome, fertile and well tilled.
We visited a Eoman amphitheatre about 1,700 years old,
which still contains seats of Verona marble sufficient to
accommodate over 20,000 people, and when complete must
have been ample, including standing room, to accommodate
70,000. The gates of the ancient city, portions of the wall,
and some old palaces also remain of the Eoman works. The

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 345

town now contains less than 70,000 inhabitants, but its com-
plication of forts, walls, arsenals, barracks, magazines,
embankments, palaces, and churches renders it a place of
considerable interest.

Our journey from that place to this was accomplished in
seventeen hours by rail up the river Adige and its tributaries
over the Tyrolese Alps at the Brenner Pass, and down the
river Inn and its tributaries. The road is excellent, the cars
comfortable, and the route naturally very favorable for a road
over so mountainous a region. The beauty of the mountain
scenery would reward a lover of the picturesque for a jour-
ney through it, as it contains rich and highly cultivated
valleys and mountain sides until they are so steep as to make
it necessary to stake the soil down or terrace it, above which
an immense forest of timber is crowned with snow. Numer-
ous cascades and waterfalls add beauty and variety to the
scenery.

While in Greece I was conversing with some gentlemen
who spoke English, in relation to the Americans and English
sending missionaries there to convert them. They enquired,
" Why don't they send their missionaries to the heathen, and
convert them to Christ? We are Christians already, and
what sense is there in their spending their time and money to
convert us over again ? We are agreed now and have one
religion, and that the ancient Greek Church. If we follow
these American and English missionaries, we shall have no
religion and be in dispute with each other, and what good can
that all do us?" According to the provisions of the Greek
constitution no person has a right to proselyte from the Greek
Church ; all have a right to enjoy their faith, and teach it to
any one not of the Greek Church ; but as all Greek children
are baptized into the Greek Church, the field for missionary
labor in that kingdom is very limited.

I visited St. Paul's Church, which is the cathedral of that
kingdom, and is a new and handsome building. Though

346 COERESPONDENCE OF

small in comparison with St. Peter's in Rome, it contrasts
favorably with it in not being infested by beggars.

Sister Schettler, wife of Paul A. , came to our hotel to-
day ; she had been visiting her friends for about two weeks,
and is in good health and spirits.

Munich is a live city, the streets are clean, well paved,
and many of them wide and handsome. It contains many
public edifices, all permanent, and many ol them handsome
buildings. Its public institutions are numerous, with ample
pleasure grounds and groves around it. Bavaria is a Cath-
olic kingdom, Louis II its ruler, but it forms a promi-
nent part of the newly organized German Empire. School
buildings, and buildings for universities and seminaries of
learning are numerous. Hospitals, museums, libraries and
theatres, on a grand scale, are also here. Homan Catholic
churches are numerous, and many of them are quite orna-
mental and, we are told, rich in relics.

GEORGE A. SMITH.

LETTER LXXXIII

Constantinople— Island of Syra— Athens— The Acropolis— The Areopagus-
■ Visit the American Minister— Trieste — Verona — Munich.

Munich, Bavaeia, April 22nd, 1873.

Editor Woman's Exponent:

Constantinople, with its many waters and variegated
land scenery — combining beauty and commercial advantages,
surpasses all other locations I have ever seen. From an out-
side view, as we beheld it from the steamer's upper deck,
before, and at sunrise, one cloudless morning, when the
atmosphere was clear of smoke, this great capital of Turkey

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 347

is magniticeiitl}'- beautiful. But, like most eastern oities, in
consequence of narrow, crooked, til thy streets, it will not
bear an intimate acquaintance. It contains many fine edifices,
of which its many minaretted mosques are considered its
greatest ornament ; and to a Saint of God, wlio understands
that He accepts no church, mosque or temple, unless built
by his special direction, these are of little or no interest,
only as a matter of curiosity. The tall, graceful, dark
green cypress trees, of which there are great numbers, especi-
ally in the burial grounds of Constantinople, add much to
the picturesque scenery, and are highly valued as being
productive of health, by absorbing malarious eifluvia from
the atmosphere.

I was interested, and much amused with the novelty of
the bazars — so very unlike anything I had seen. In the first
place, you enter a narrow street or defile, with rows of small
shops with open fronts, ranged along on each side, with
articles for sale on shelves at the back and sides, and strung
up in front — a vendor standing in the center, ready to wait
on you. After going a short distance, other alleys or lanes
lead off in various directions, then others branch out from
them, and so on, till, without a pilot, you may be entirely
lost in a forest of bazars, and your sight bewildered with
their dazzling displays.

The exterior of the Grand Sultan's Palace is a rare speci-
men of taste, chaste beauty and elegance.

On the 5th of April, again on the upper deck of the
steamer Mars, I took a farewell view of the Turkish capital,
while its hills and dells, minarets, domes, towers and masts
faded in the distance, as well as that immense structure on
the coast of Asia Minor, celebrated as the place where
Florence Nightingale bestowed her womanly and heroic aid
in behalf of the sick, wounded and dying.

Near the shore of the beautiful Island of Syra, we
changed steamers, and on the morning of the 7th, landed at

348 COERESPONDENCE OF

Piraeus— took carriage— rode five miles, which brought ns to
the city of Athens. I am not an enthusiastic admirer of
ruins, and time-worn relics of what is dead and obsolete,
especially when they have no possible bearing upon present
progress, yet, in spite of my positive predilections, my atten-
tion was strongly rivetted to some of the stupendous remains
of the ancient splendor and magnificence of a city that
figured so much in the classics and political history of Greece.

But, as I am not a professional archseologist, I shall
leave the description to others. While visiting the Acropolis,
on the lofty height of the plateau, a natural enormous rock
foundation of the original Athens, we had a charming view
of the present.

Anciently the Areopagus, or "Mars Hill," was a judg-
ment seat, where the most important civil and ecclesiastical
cases were tried and sentences pronounced. On this hill the
Apostle Paul stood and addressed the people. I almost
fancied him occupying that strikingly peculiar position — in
close proximity to, and almost surrounded by temples of the
greatest possible brilliancy, dedicated to, and containing
vast numbers of, those venerated deities, the very gods
which he repudiated in the audience of their worshippers ;
boldly telling his idolatrous hearers that " God dwelleth not
in temples made with hands "— '' we ought not to think that
the Godhead is like unto gold, or silver, or stone, graven by
art and man's device," etc.

We were invited to tea at the residence of the American
Minister, Mr. Francis, and lady, where also we met Mr.
Goodenough, American Consul General to Constantinople,
and spent a couple of hours very sociably and agreeably.
We saw George First, King of Greece, on the sidewalk, in
plain citizen costume and were told that he is doing all in his
power to better the condition of the people. His wife, Olga,
is niece of the Czar, Alexander II, of Russia, thus uniting
Danish and Russian element.

PALESTINE TOUKISTS. 349

We left Athens on the 12th, arrived by steamer at
Trieste, Austria, the 17th ; at Verona, Italy, the 19th, and on
the 21st at Munich, Bavaria.

Of all sight-seeing and entertainments, nothing has
pleased us more than the packages of letters and papers
which we met at Constantinople and Trieste, from Utah,
informing us of "home, sweet liome."

ELIZA E. SNOW.

LETTER LXXXIV

The Nile— Heliopolis— Goshen— Red Sea— Holy Places— Sea of Galilee-
River Jordan— Mountain of the Temptation.

Hotel Four Seasons, Bavaria,

April 22nd, 1873.
Elder John Taylor:

Dear Brother : — Your very welcome favor of March 3rd,
per hands of Mrs. Little, was handed to me this morning by
Mrs. Schettler, and read with much gratification.

I recognize, with yourself, the hand of the Lord in direct-
ing the channels of means, and doubt not he orders all things
well. It would have afforded me much pleasure to have had
you accompany me in my travels.

We are pleased to learn that so many are disposed to do
right, and hope those who are worldly-minded will at once
be disposed to reconsider their ways.

Our want of time and lack of knowledge of the
languages of the peoples visited, of necessity curtailed our
facilities for becoming very conversant with their customs and
institutions.

350 CORRESPONDENCE OF

We went up the Nile no further than Heliopolis, where a
beautiful obelisk is all that remains, except tumuli and frag-
ments. This place is said to be On, the residence of my
great grandfather Potiphar, priest of On , and that obelisk is
said to be one of the monuments of his temple. I took
pleasure in the reflection that Asenath, the wife of Joseph
and the mother of his race, walked over that ground, and
looked upon that obelisk when Egypt was in its glory ; and
being of the family of Joseph, my interest on that occasion
was intense. I presume we passed over the land of Goshen,
and that we visited the Red Sea near the spot where Pharaoh
was destroyed. I have but little confidence in the grouping
by Helena, of the identical holy places within the walls of
the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, but I have little doubt
that we saw the top of Mount Moriah. We had a pleasant
ride on the Sea of Galilee, and I was baptized for my health
in the Jordan, where it is said John baptized the Saviour,
and near where Joshua is supposed to have crossed with the
children of Israel. I saw the mountain upon which our
guide said the devil took the Saviour when he showed him
all the kingdoms of the world and the glory of them, I did
not feel enough interested to ascend it, and if I had I would
not have seen all of Palestine.

Brother and Sister Snow, and Brother Carrington, unite
with me in our hearty God bless you for ever and ever, and

all Israel.

GEORGE A. SMITH.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 361

LETTER LXXXV

At Munich— Visit to a Kindergarten— Employments and Pastimes of the
Children— Contrast between Children of Germany and France— Con-
venience of the Kindergartens.

Munich, Bavaria, April 25th, 1873.
Editor Juvenile Instructor:

T wrote you a description of oiie of the schools we visited
in Paris. In that letter I promised to write you again when
I had seen one of the German kindergarten schools ; and
now I have taken up my pen to fulfill that promise.

Mr. Geirisch, the gentlemanly brother of Sister Paul A.
Schettler, who is here on a visit to her relatives, and now with
us, obtained a card of admission from the Department, and
President Smith and party, yesterday, visited one of the
many Universities in this city. The one referred to is a
normal school, expressly for educating ladies for teachers,
with the kindergarten school attached. We are informed
that the city of Munich is divided into districts, like the
Wards in Salt Lake City, and that each district contains one
of these kindergartens, and some of them are very large. I
counted upwards of thirty in the one we visited — boys and
girls, from three to six years of age.

They were not apprised of our visit, and when the porter
opened the door for us to enter, the children were singing
and marching, two and two, hand in hand — the matron, an
amiable-looking lady, walking before them. As soon as we
entered they halted in silence, till we had positions assigned
and then, the lady going in front, a little rosy-cheeked,
laughing boy followed as file leader, and the rest, two and

352 COKRESPONDENCE OF

two, hand in hand, resumed their march, stepping as true to
time as a well disciplined body of soldiers, and occasionally
changing time, by the matron's dictation, without the least
disorder. In the course of the marcli, on intimation of the
matron, they united their sweet infantile voices in harmon-
ious singing, in their own language, which we did not under-
stand.

When the marching exercise ended, they all repaired to
their seats, and each was presented with his and her labelled
portfolio, which the matron took out from a drawer which
constituted a portion of a sideboard, the upper part of which
was of glass, exhibiting specimens of the children's work in
almost endless variety. The portfolios were neat and simple,
made of blue pasteboard, each containing little specimens of
industry, the unfinished piece of work, on which they sever-
ally were soon busied.

Some were weaving paper of different colors, some
perforating white pasteboard in various delicate patterns, one
little boy was intently at work, perforating a lamp shade, of
which the design was beautiful, and, so far as completed,
very accurately executed. Some were working with wool,
others with silk ; and what must be a great stimulus to these
children, is, their work is not useless — they are all, even the
least of them, working for a purpose. Whatever their piece
of work, when it is completed, it is converted into something
of real value, either for use, or for ornament. The lady
informed us that many articles, made by these tiny artists
and manufacturers, had been sent to Vienna for exhibition.

Our time was limited, and we did not hear their exerci-
ses in reading and spelling ; but were shown their tiny, min-
iature gardening implements, consisting of hoes, spades,
shovels, rakes, wheelbarrows, etc. The day being stormy,
the children were all in, but we were told that in fine weather
they are much out in their little garden, adjoining the school-
room.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 353

After six years of age, these children are removed into
other and higher departments, and, as in France, the boys
and girls are educated separately.

We noticed a striking difference between these and the
little ones we saw at school in Paris, as it regards healthful-
ness of appearance these are robust and ruddy, with none
of the sallow complexion and delicate, thin features of the
Parisians.

These children are under immediate tuition five hours of
the day, three in forenoon and two afternoon, but they are
all day in care of the matron, who relieves the mother of all
responsibility of charge, and she can go out to work during
the day, if circumstances require her to do so, without any
encumbrance or anxiety. Not only the poor, but many
wealthy parents avail themselves of having their little ones
kindly cared for and trained by these skilful matrons. The
rosy-cheeked boy, who led in the march we witnessed, is son
of the proprietor of this great hotel in which I am writing.

ELIZA B. SNOW.

LETTER LXXXVI

Munich— Visit to a Royal Palace— Statue of Bavaria— Imperial Wedding-
Vienna— The Arsenal— Summe^- Palace— The Great Exhibition.

Vienna, Austeia, May 6th, 1873.
Editoe Deseeet News :

We spent a few days very pleasantly, and I hope profit-
ably, in Munich, the capital of Bavaria. Our hotel accom-
modations, politeness of host, and the attention of servants,
has been nowhere excelled. The general appearance of the
people in respect to style of dress, their moral character and

354 CORRESPONDENCE OF

education, will bear comparison with that of the first cities in
other European countries. The streets, public gardens, parka
and squares, possess many attractions, but unfortunately the
weather was unpropitious for the full appreciation of sight-
seeing.

Munich is situated in a barren plain, upon both sides of
the river Iser. It contains about one hundred and seventy-
five thousand inhabitants, and is considered the fourth city
in Germany in point of population. Many of its parks,
squares, and public gardens are adorned with fountains,
lawns, shrubbery, cascades, grottoes, equestrian figures and
colossal statues. In one of these squares is a large obelisk,
erected in honor of the Bavarians who were slain in the Rus-
sian campaign of 1812, bearing the inscription, "To the
thirty thousand Bavarians who perished in tlie Russian war ;
erected by Louis First, King of Bavaria, completed Oct. 18,
1833. They died for the deliverance of the country. " The
park, called the English Garden, nearly five miles long by a
half mile in width, is ornamented at vast labor and expense.
We visited the Royal Palace, and spent some two hours in
walking through the imperial apartments, inspecting the
numerous objects of interest and curiosity — the Audience
Hall, embellished with twelve portraits of Roman Emperors;
the Green Gallery, with a great number of Dutch and Italian
paintings ; The Bed-chamber, containing curtains of gold
brocade, valued at the enormous sum of four hundred thou-
sand dollars; and the Mirror Room, adorned with precious
vases of gold and silver, together with chandeliers of
immense value. Also the Hall of Marriages, appropriately
decorated with fresco work ; the Hall of the Emperors,
adorned with paintings by the most celebrated masters ; the
Hall of Charlemagne, with numerous pictures of gigantic
size, commemorative of the most remarkable events in his
life. The Throne Hall is one hundred and sixty feet long,
and seventy-three wide, ornamented on either side by twelve

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 365

Corintliian columns of white marble, supporting galleries.
Between these columns are twelve statues of princes in gilded
bronze, each of which weighs nearly one and a half tons — the
simple cost of gilding was about twelve hundred dollars each.

The Royal Library is a very beautiful building, compris-
ing seventy-seven rooms, in which are contained more than
eight hundred thousand volumes. The Royal Bronze Foun-
dry is much celebrated— monuments have been cast in this
foundry for nearly all parts of the world.

In the south-west of the city, on an eminence, in a large
meadow, stands the colossal statue of Bavaria. It is placed
upon a basement, which is ascended by a flight of forty-eight
steps — the height of the statue itself is thirty-two and a half
feet, and pedestal twenty-eight and a half. This female
statue represents the Protectress of Bavaria, with a lion at
her side. In her right hand she holds a sword, and in her
left a chaplet. This immense statue was cast at the Royal
Foundry. The interior of the figure contains a staircase of
sixty-six steps, which ascend through the pedestal to the
height of the knees, and from thence by a spiral stair to the
head, within which eight persons can be seated.

One day, hearing that the king, with his suite and royal
equipage, was out on an imperial wedding, I set forward, on
foot, in company with my sister, to witness the immense
attraction, which was drawing all Munich into the streets by
tens of thousands. Having submitted to half an hour's
journeying, pressing and smashing, by the patriotic and
enthusiastic citizens of Munich, finally we secured the honor
of gazing a moment on the passing pomp and glory of
His Royal Majesty the King of Bavaria, and occupying a point
toward which he smiled and civilly howed. After narrowly
escaping being trodden down by the crowd, I returned to my
hotel, wondering how much mathematical skill or philosoph-
ical wisdom would be required to determine the exact value
of what was gained by this exposure.

356 CORRESPONDENCE OF

We left Munich on the morning of the 29th, and arrived
in Vienna by train, the following evening. Vienna, the capi-
tal of Austria, is situated at the foot of the Vienna Mountain,
in a plain, near the right bank of the Danube. It contains a
population of about eight hundred thousand.

A boulevard encircles the city, planted with trees, and
bordered with very elegant buildings, and beautiful gardens.
The city exhibits some very remarkable edifices — the Castle,
Cathedral of St. Stephen's, Imperial Palace, and many palar
tial residences of ministers and ambassadors. The suburbs of
the city are very populous, containing many splendid edifices,
fine promenades, and ornamental gardens. Many of the
squares are decorated with various statues and monuments,
displaying great skill in design and execution ; among these
is an equestrian statue of the Emperor Joseph III, who is
represented on horseback, stretching out his hand, and bless-
ing the people. Also an equestrian statue of the Arcli-Duke
Charles, erected in 1860— he is represented at the battle of
Aspern, in the attitude of raising the flag, to lead the grena-
diers to the attack. Also the Column of the Trinity, erected
in 1679, on the cessation of the plague. This column is com-
posed of white Salsburg marble, and is over seventy feet
high; on the pedestal is a rock, upholding Eel igion, a cherub,
overcoming the Master of the Plague, also some bass-reliefs,
representing incidents of sacred history. The Emperor
appears in the attitude of kneeling on the summit of the
column, and angels rising toward heaven. Another very
fine monument, built by Charles VI, consists of a canopy,
sustained by Corinthian columns, beneath which is a group,
representing the marriage of the Virgin. We noticed, in
various parts of the city, many sjjlendid fountains, fine
brido'es, broad, well paved streets, bordered with linden and
chestnut, and skirted with magnificent buildings ; and in the
city and suburbs, many ornamented squares, public gardens
and extensive parks.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 357

Vienna lias numerous cathedrals, some of which are fine
specimens of Gothic architecture. The Church of the
Saviour is an elegant structure, decorated in Gothic style —
built in commemoration of an attempt to destroy the life of
Francis Joseph, in the year 1853. The first stone was laid
by the Emperor, which was obtained from the Mount of
Olives, in Palestine, in 1856.

We visited the Imperial Arsenal, considered one of the
grandest buildings in Vienna ; it is very extensive and sur-
rounded by ornamental grounds. It comprises numerous
workshops, foundries, machine shops, and a Museum of
Arms, containing specimens of weapons of all periods ; artil-
lery of brass and iron, and vast quantities of projectiles. It
has nine steam engines, and two thousand men are kept em-
ployed within the buildings. It casts eighty cannons per
day, and usually makes a run two days in a week.

The Imperial Summer Palace, a short distance from the
city, is charmingly located beside a large public park, encir-
cled by ornamental grounds, and has an orangery of seven
hundred and forty trees, and a grand parterre, decorated
with thirty-two statues, and a large basin, with two splendid
fountains. The palace contains fifteen hundred chambers.

Of late years, great alterations and improvements have
been made in Vienna, by tearing down old fortifications,
erecting public buildings, straightening and widening streets
and thoroughfares, and multiplying, enlarging and orna-
menting public grounds.

We have spent some days in the buildings of the great
exhibition. Everything in relation to it is upon the most
magnificent scale ; but I presume another month will be
requisite to complete the arrangements to get the articles for
exhibition unboxed and in tlieir appropriate places. At
present, great confusion exists in nearly every part of the
buildings. It is supposed that it will exceed, in splendor,
variety, extent, perfection of articles, correctness of arrange-

358 CORRESPONDENCE OF

ment, magnificence and universality, any previous exhibition.
For tlie present, however, I will defer observations on this
subject.

In Austria, as in all other countries which we have visited,
soldiers, in military costume, are seen almost everywhere, in
great numbers.

Perhaps you are weary of these descriptions of what we
are seeing in the world— gorgeous churches, museums, pic-
ture galleries, mosques, zoological gardens, relics, ruins,
antiquities, crumbling temples, statuary, obelisks, sumptuous
palaces, odd customs, singular manners of people, religious
fanaticisms, trickery and impostures, &c., but in sight-seeing
we are confined within the limits of what the pride and van-
ity of the world have labored to exhibit, rather than what, in
many instances, we should have preferred seeing. It would
have been more gratifying to record our inspection of sys-
tems, on magnificent and universal scales, designed to remove
poverty and distress, which, to a greater or less extent,
everywhere prevail ; and to give all an opportunity, irrespect-
ive of creeds, geographical lines or nationalities, of provid-
ing for their own wants and comforts, and of elevating them-
selves to the highest spiritual, physical, moral, and intellect-
ual plane.

LORENZO SNOW.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 359

LETTER LXXXVII

stormy Weather— No Beggars— Royal Marriage— Instruments of Torture-
Visit the American Legation.

Hotel Klomser, Vienna, Austria, April 30th, 1873.
President Brigham Young:

Dear Brother:— While we remained in Bavaria we had a
constant series of storms, rain and snow, which reminded us
that we were in latitude 48 N., materially abridging chances
for sight-seeing and forming acquaintances.

About lip. m. of the 28th, Brothers Erastus Snow and
his son E. W., W. C. Staines, J. G. Bleak and Joseph Birch
arrived at our hotel in Munich.

There is one Protestant church building in Munich, all
the rest ate Catholic, and religious matters are held with a
very tight rein in Bavaria.

I was informed by Mr. Geirisch, Brother Schettler's
brother-in-law, that nearly all the people in Bavaria lived on
rye bread and beer ; but few could afford cheese, and very
few meat.

The streets of Munich are clear of beggars ; I am told it
is a result of police regulations. A great many women work
in the fields as farm laborers. In several instances I saw hale-
looking women drawing loaded wagons in the streets of
Munich ; one span were drawing water, another a load of
flour sacks, others were drawing single drays.

On the 28th, Prince Leopold arrived in Munich with his
bride ; a highly ornamented carriage, drawn by six horses in

360 CORRESPONDENCE OF

gilded harness, was in waiting to receive them at the station.
One or two regiments of infantry and some horsemen escorted
them to a public square, where they were received by the
magistrates. The square and streets for a mile were crowded
with gaping citizens. All the public buildings and many of
the private ones were ornamented with flags. They were
escorted to rooms in the royal palace, prepared by his bach-
elor cousin, King Louis II, for their reception. He is a gen-
eral in the Bavarian army, and served in the Bavarian army
in the late Franco-Prussian war.

The Hotel Four Seasons, at Munich, is one of the largest,
finest and best conducted we have been in. I believe all the
public improvements we have visited are very substantial,
and but few in any way gaudy.

The* railroad and cars from Munich to this city are good,
and the business is well conducted.

The normal school in Munich is not superior to the one I
last year visited in Potsdam, New York, but is really a very
fine school, annually turning out tliirty teachers.

A collection of instruments of torture in the National
Museum were enough to curdle a man's blood ; they were
doubtless the invention of men professing to be the servants
of Christ.

I visited the American Legation this morning. The
weather is cold and unpleasant ; it has been raining and
snowing.

T. W. Jennings is with us. Mrs. Schettler remained in
Munich with her friends. Brother L. Snow and Eliza, and
Brother Carrington are here and well.

GEOEGE A. SMITH.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 361

LETTER LXXXVril

Principal German Cities— the King's Palace — A Famous Glass Factory-
Glass Window Curtains — Visit the Universities — Marriage Festivities —
Vienna and Its Great Exliibition — " No Place Like Home."

Vienna, Austria, May 4th, 1873.

Editor Woman's Exponent:

Dear Lula: — My last was written after our arrival in
Munich, which, after Berlin, Vienna and Hambnrg,is first of
importance in the German Empire, and contains about one
hundred and seventy-five tliousand inhabitants. It is a
handsome, live city — has many beautiful buildings, and some
wide, clean, well-paved streets and side-walks. This is the
place of nativity of Mrs. Paul A. Schettler, whom we had
the pleasure of meeting here, she having preceded us about
two weeks, on a visit to her relatives. We are much indebted
to the kindness of her brother, Mr. Gierisch, who tendered us
assistance in gaining admittance to places of interest. He
conducted us through the King's Palace, and being in His
Majesty's service and confidence, showed us into apartments
not accorded to the inspection of general visitors, many of
whom were in some portions of the Palace with us. We
visited several rooms which represent the sixteentli century,
remaining in the original style of that period ; others of later,
and down to present date, some of which are only used on
special royal occasions. We passed through a large hall
wliicli was being fitted up on the occasion of the Prince of
Bavaria wedding the Princess of Austria, who, with some of
the Austrian Court, are to arrive in two or three days, when
a grand reception is to be given in this hall.

362 COKRESPONDENCE OF

When in Venice we visited a glass manufactory, where
glass was spun into very fine threads, and worked into any
desirable form, as readily as silk; and, in this Bavarian
Palace, we saw magnificent brocade window curtains, of
beautiful colors, made entirely of glass. Some apartments
were ornamented with gold in great profusion. Professor
Carrington thought it a. pity that so mucli of the precious
metal should be useless, which might be better employed in
behalf of suffering humanity. The four walls of one room
were hung with portraits of ladies, called the ''Beauties of
Munich"— Mrs. Soliettler and I thought Salt Lake City could
furnish as many equally as beautiful.

The next day Mr. Gierisch obtained cards of admission,
and conducted us to one of the many universities in the city, _
which we found to be a normal school for the education of
teachers, which graduates about thirty annually. The
ground floor of the building is appropriated to the kinder-
garten, a description of which I forwarded to the Jumnile
Instructor. We visited three of the normal departments : in
one, a lady was superintending, while amateur young ladies
were taking practical lessons in teaching the classes, under
her supervision. The other departments were under the
immediate tuition of gentlemen teachers. In one of these, I
remarked to one of the professors, who accompanied us,
that the young ladies' appearance indicated energy of char-
acter, a requisite attribute for teachers, to which he assented,
adding that they were also good natured, which elicited a
hearty responsive smile of gratification from the young
ladies, and produced a pleasant, general sensation.

In the last department, the number was small : in this,
the students were completing their education, which we were
informed is very thorough.

We were shown into the professor's studio, and also into
the Superintendent's laboratory, where were chemical appa-
ratus and botanic specimens, some of which were enlarged

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 363

illustrations, for the benefit of students— a mannikin, also
separate specimens of human bodily organs, much enlarged,
etc. We were infonned that no young lady can obtain a
diploma as teacher, until she is a prolicient in all of these
branches ; connecting the physical with the mental is cer-
tainly a healthful consideration in the educational process.
A cultivated mind in a sound body can be much more
effective in doing good than in an unsound one; which
makes it requisite that school teachers, as well as parents,
should understand the physiology, and the anatomical
structure of the human body, in order to promote its healtli-
ful condition and adaptation, while rultivating the mind.

In France, boys and young men only are trained in
gymnastics; but here they are practised by both sexes.
They have appointed times for these exercises— we did not
witness them.

The afternoon of the 28th was a gala time in Munich.
At half past three, the Bavarian groom and Austrian bride
would arrive at the depot ; and with their suite, ride in
carriages to the Palace. Of course all Munich must see
them, and that portion, minus contiguous porticos, windows,
etc., were on the streets and sidewalks, ourselves with the
rest, to the number, as was judged, of from forty to fifty
thousand. We were fortunately in a position to receive, or
rather share, their gracious smiles and bows ; but after all
had passed, we began to think of returning to the hotel.
It was of no use to make an effort, and we stood as still as
the pressure of the crowd would admit, for some time, bracing
ourselves as much as possible, to prevent being carried on the
waves of the streaming multitude. All were smiling with
pleasure ; but this gave me a striking idea of the horrors
attendant on a riotous uprising, where people are subject to
be trodden to death without the possibility of escape ! Such
was the eagerness of the people to get a glimpse of the
pageantry of royalty, on this auspicious occasion, that

364 COERESPONDENCE OF

mounted officers were constantly on dnty , pressing them back
sufficiently for the procession to pass. This young Prince is
cousin to the present King of Bavaria, who is not married.

The evening before leaving Munich, we were joined by
Honorable Erastus Snow and his son Erastus, who has been
on a mission in England, Missionary Agent of New York,
W. C. Staines, Elder J. G. Bleake from the Liverpool office,
and Elder Birch from St. George. Having from some un-
known cause, failed of getting our mail, the arrival of these
brethren, and the information they brought, was like "light
shining in a dark place." We all left Munich on the morn-
ing of the 29th, when twelve and a half hours by rail brought
us three hundred miles to Vienna. This is truly a beautiful
city, said to contain 640,000 inhabitants. The streets are
broad, with many open squares for free ventilation and are
kept clean ; the houses are many of them five stories high,
and neatly built. By ascending some four hundred and
twenty steps in the spire of St. Stephen's Church, we had a
magnificent view of the city and surroundings, including the
exterior of the unrivaled Palace of the Exposition, or
'* World's Fair," which, in the distance of two miles, appeared
as if washed by the noble Danube, on which we saw little
boats moving, apparently in miniature.

The Fair was formally opened on the Ist of May, as per
announcement, but it will be one month at least, before its
arrangements are completed. Many hands are constantly at
work making preparations for and unpacking boxes of
articles. The American Department is very little arranged,
and I think no one is complete ; and yet there is very much
of the useful and ornamental already on exhibition ; enough
to illustrate the magnitude of design, and the order and
magnificence of the arrangements. The Crystal Palace in
London is a splendid affair, but will not bear comparison
witli this in Vienna.

Since leaving home I have seen many places and many

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 365

people— people in contrasts of circumstances, with wide
extremes of habit and customs — have seen the rich in pomp
and grandeur, and the poor in beggary and wretcliedness—
have associated with the highly educated and refined, and
with the ignorant and semi-civilized— have visited magnificent
royal palaces, and wretched abodes— have traveled over
fertile plains and sterile deserts, verdant valleys and snow-
capped mountains ; and, although I have cherished a con-
stant determination to enjoy everything enjoyable while
abroad, and have really done so, I still think, as I have
hitherto invariably thought, that home, with the Latter-day
Saints, is the place of the highest happiness attainable on
earth.

ELIZA E. SNOW.

LETTER LXXXIX

At Vienna— Berlin— The Royal Palace— A Large Banquet Hall— Beautiful
New Chapel— Monuments— Visit the U. S. Minister— Freedom of Par-
liament— Multitudes of Soldiers— Unhealthy Moral Condition of Berlin

. Hamburg — Church of St. James — In London Again.

Berlin, Peussia, May 12th, 1873.
Editor Deseret News:

On the 9th ult. we started from Vienna by train, and
arrived here the following afternoon.

The country between Vienna and this, the capital of the
German Empire, some five hundred or more miles, is delight-
ful. Its immense undulating plains, here and there forming
into low hills and rising mounds, all under a high state of
cultivation , present a lovely, picturesque scenery. The whole
country appeared to be filled with industrious and enter-

366 CORRESPONDENCE OF

prising inhabitants. Elegant mansions peeping out amid the
green foliage of romantic groves, villas, with their respective
chapels surmounted with broad domes, or glittering steeples,
and cities occasionally appearing in the distance, crowning
the rising hills, altogether, form a panoramic view that is
almost captivating.

On our arrival here we engaged quarters in the most
fashionable and aristocratic hotel in the city, in a very pleas-
ant and stirring locality.

Berlin is situated on a sandy plain on the river Spree,
and is considered, in several respects, one of the finest and
most interesting cities of Northern Europe — the metropolis of
knowledge for Northern Gfermany, and the cultivated nur-
sery of German arts and sciences. It contains about eight
hundred and thirty thousand inhabitants.

Many of the streets are broad and straight — the build-
ings, frequently four and five stories high. The finest street
passes our hotel — it is called "■ Unter den Linden," and is
decorated with four rows of lime trees. In the centre of this
street is a broad avenue for pedestrians, and on each side,
arrangements for footmen and carriages. This magnificent
thoroughfare extends from the Royal Palace, to the ''Bran-
denburg Gate." This gate is constructed in the style of the
Propylacan at Athens. It is sixty feet in height and one hun-
dred and ninety in width, embracing five passages for carriages
and footmen. It is surmounted by a figure emblematical of
Victory seated in a chariot, drawn by four horses. The
height of the group is nearly twenty feet. The expense of
erecting this gate was in the neighborhood of a half million of
dollars.

The Royal Palace is an extensive building — six hundred
and forty feet in length, by three hundred and seventy-six
wide, containing six hundred apartments. It contains a
chapel, which is remarkable as being the place where the
baptismal ceremony of Frederic the Great was performed.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 367

The Picture Gallery, which is now used for a Banqueting
Hall, is over two hundred in length, and one hundred and
twenty -live feet wide. The largest room in this palace is one
hundred and live feet in length, by lifty-one in width — decor-
ated with a great variety of costly statues, and portraits of
celebrated individuals. These palaces contain a new chapel,
built in ]849, with a cupola measuring eighty-six feet in
diameter. The altar is surmounted by a cross of silver seven
feet in height, studded with gems, the cost of which is esti-
mated at four hundred thousand dollars. There are several
other palaces in the city, and some at Potsdam, a few miles
distant, which is called the ^' Versailles of Prussia."

We have seen several splendid monuments, some of which
we think as line as any we have seen in Europe ; also many
equestrian statues of skilful and elegant workmanship.

We called on Mr. G. Bancroft, the American Minister —
known as the American Historian — were kindly and warmly
received, and enjoyed a very pleasant and sociable interview,
at the close of which he cordially proffered his assistance, to
the extent of his influence, in rendering our stay in Berlin
profitable and interesting. He subsequently, visited us at
our hotel.

Here, we were fortunate in meeting Dr. Schleiden, mem-
ber of the German Parliament, whose acquaintance we had
formed in Salt Lake City, and which we renewed in New
York, as mentioned in a former communication. This excel-
lent gentlemen was delighted to see and introduce us to his
intimate friend, Mr. Kapp, also a member of Parliament.
These gentlemen have called upon us on several occasions,
and have accorded us free access to the House of Parliament
now in session ; and have taken much pains in showing us
objects of interest, and through interesting localities.

We were surprised to see the multitude of soldiers con-
stantly parading the main thoroughfares and streets in this
city. Every day they are marching past our hotel , in bat-

368 CORKESPONDENCE OF

talions, regiments, brigades and divisions, in the most impos-
ing style, with magnificent flags and banners display-
ed— all led by instrumental bands of musicians in rich
shining costumes — the whole performing their evolutions iu
the strictest order, skill and precision, presenting the finest
and most splendid appearance of troops in any country we
have visited.

Those fashionable institutions, " houses of ill-fame," are
said to flourish and command the patronage of nearly all
classes here, as in Paris, the gay metropolis of France; and
some of them are built at an immense cost, and fitted up in
fabulous splendor and sumptuousness. The people of Berlin,
viewed superficially, are remarkably intelligent, and appear
interesting, lovely, beautiful and Jiappy, as though all were
conscientious, moral, upright and pure; but, in this city, as
well as in most others we have seen, corruption, rottenness,
demoralization and misery are underneath.

Considerable sensation was created among the aristocrats
in our hotel, through the calls of distinguished gentlemen,
on our party. Our celebrity reached the public press, where
we were creditably noticed, and perhaps somewhat flattered,

London, May 19th.

We arrived here yesterday. Before we left Berlin, Elder
Erastus Snow and son bid us adieu, en route for Scandinavia,
and Elder Schettler in another direction, to attend to some
necessary business, while President Smith, my sister and I
left for London, ma Hamburg and the German Ocean.

The country from Berlin to Hamburg is not prepossessing
in its appearance. It exhibits no variety nor beauty of scen-
ery— the face of the country is generally low and flat — sim-
ilar to that of Holland, though not abounding in canals and
windmills.

Hamburg contains a population of two hundred and
twenty-five thousand, and is the principal place of commerce,

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 369

and one of the most beautiful cities in Germany. It is situ-
ated on the river Elbe, about eighty miles from its mouth.
The port is very extensive, and crowded with shipping of
various tonnage.

The Bourse, the great rendezvous of merchants and capi-
talists of every rank, presents a lively, stirring business
aspect, between the hours of one and two o'clock, p. m.,
when three or four thousand business people may generally
be seen thronging the apartments.

This city affords a beautiful, fashionable commonage
along the quay, which surrounds the basin formed by the
River Alsten.

The Church of St. James is much noted : it is surmounted
by a steeple three hundred and fifty feet in height. The great
Church of St. Nicholas is also considerably celebrated — it is
ornamented with a magnificent steeple, four hundred and
fifty-six feet high, which affords a wonderful panoramic view
from its summit. The Zoological and Botanical Gardens are
represented to be among the finest in Germany.

We left Berlin on the 15th, and arrived in Hamburg the
following evening, with the intention of remaining one day
only. At the railroad station, the proprietor of a commo-
dious hotel, in the most respectful manner, solicited our
patronage — conducted us into his best apartments, and
bestowed upon us more than ordinary attentions. The next
day, he officiated gratuitously as our guide through the
city — taking particular pains, and manifesting deep interest
in pointing out and explaining every object of interest and
curiosity. At first, we were a little suspicious that these
extraordinary attentions were designed to establish heavy
claims on the purse, but the mystery was at length revealed —
this gentleman had read the German papers, and, at once
recognized us as the "Distinguished Mormon Delegation"
from Salt Lake. Our notoriety here brought us acquaint-
ances.

370 CORRESPONDENCE OF

A gentleman who, for many years, had been successfully
engaged, on a large scale, in emigration, obtained an intro-
duction, and very earnestly solicited our patronage, believ-
ing that, very soon, we should have a heavy emigration
business in that country.

We left Hamburg on the 16th ult. , on the steamer Iris^
making our way over the German Sea, and arrived at Black-
wall, London, on the evening of the 18th, after a pleasant
and prosperous voyage.

LORENZO SNOW.

LETTER XC

Leave Vienna — Bad Weather— Berlin —The Thier Garten— Bismarck and.
Moltke — Prussian Ladies— Hamburg— The Hollanders — A Land of Sol-
diers.

. Hamburg, Germany, May 16th, 1873.

Editor Woman's Exponent:

Dear Lula : — We left Vienna on the 9th, and arrived at
Berlin, the capital of Germany, the next evening. The cold,
stormy weather which overtook us at Munich, followed us to
Vienna and from there to Berlin, where we had but one
sunny day, which we improved in out-door sight-seeing.
Walking down the principal promenade in the city, called
Linden Street, (Unter den Linden) so named from being lined
with four rows of lime trees, we strolled into the Thier Gar-
ten, an extensive public ground with artificial forests and
shrubbery— garden plats, with statues in the centre sur-
rounded with flower beds in full bloom — broad streets for

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 371

carriages and omnibuses— side-walks for pedestrians and on
opposite sides, roads for equestrians. These streets, many in
number, cross at right angles, and extend far away in the
distance, forming deliglitful avenues through the tall trees
with their fresh, shady foliage. This furnishes a healthful
exercise and innocent recreation for thousands. Here we saw
multitudes of people of all classes — promenading, riding on
horseback, in carriages, omnibuses and coaches; while
others, seated on rustic benches — formed to correspond to the
surrounding scenery, were enjoying the social chat under the
shade of waving branches. It was truly delightful ; and I
thought that Salt Lake City, with its ample streets, beautiful
streamlets and the many advantages it possesses, is quite
deficient in this respect — it greatly needs cultivated public
grounds — not only as being ornamental, but also of real
utility.

One of the stormy days we visited the great German
Parliament, where we saw Count Bismarck and General
Moltke, of Franco-Prussian war celebrity ; both are members
of Parliament, and have seats near each other. We also saw
Dr. Schleiden whom we met in New York. The Parliament
House is not so large as the one occupied by the French
Assembly in Versailles, but showed a fuller attendance than
when we visited the latter. The gallery was crowded with
spectators, both gentlemen and ladies, the latter, by the
expression of countenance, manifesting as deep feeling of
interest as the more lordl^'- portion. We listened intently to
two earnest speeches, but not comprehending the dialect,
could not decide on their merits.

I much admire the appearance of the Prussian ladies.
Generally speaking, they exhibit the most womanly good
sense in their style of dress of any nationality I have seen
for several years past. In spite of the prohibition against
judging from appearances, the exterior unavoidably makes
an impression with regard to the interior ; and inasmuch as

872 COKRESPONDENCE OF

dress is acknowledged to be a legitimate index to the mind,
I feel authorized to pronounce in favor of tliese German ladies
—that they are truly worthy of being the mothers, wives and
daughters of the staunch, athletic-looking soldiers of the
Prussian-German Empire, whom I saw every day in full uni-
form, marcliing past my hotel, by thousands. These ladies
dress with taste, and dress well, but with less disfiguring than
fashionables do elsewhere, and in appearance are genteel,
dignified and graceful. I have, here, seen scores of plain
dress skirts worn by ladies apparently of the first class in
society. Good sense is also combined with taste in the
fashion of the ladies' riding suit. The skirt is what Webster
would have called "a sort of betweenity," in length, between
the short and the very long now worn in America, which is
in danger from the horses' feet. The riding hat is the same
as the gentlemen wear— crown of medium height, between
the stovepipe and the fiat, which gives them a stately appear-
ance. But enough about dress.

On the 15th we left Hotel Eoyal, and by train arrived in
Hamburg the same evening. This is an independent city,
the great commercial centre of Germany. Its harbor contains
an immense amount of shipping, and its railroad trains seem
to move in almost every direction — all is stir and bustle.
Hamburg is certainly a live city, and some portions of it very
beautiful.

It was late in the evening when we arrived, but this
morning, when I looked out from one of my windows which
commands a good view of several much-frequented walks,
I was struck with the uncommon size of the people— they
seemed so very large —both men and women, young and old.
After noticing tliem at different times, I remarked that I never
saw so uniformly large people, and that I would like to see
the Hamburg soldiery. This forenoon we took a ride through
the city and my wish was gratified. Hamburg has but two
thousand; and in passing the parade ground, a spacious

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 373

square, we probably saw all of them on drill, which satisfied
my curiosity. We thought those in Berlin much larger than
those we saw in France, and more particularly than those we
saw in Italy ; but these Hamburgers are certainly more of the
Goliath stamp — the tallest and stoutest military I ever saw.
Their costume is of Prussian style.

I have continued to notice the size of the people in all
parts of the city where we have been, and the same charac-
teristic prevails. I made mention of it to a lady of much
travel and observation — her opinion is the same ; but why this
distinction she failed to comprehend. We saw no reason
why this city should promote an extra in the growth of
humans.

The continent of Europe is a land of soldiers. We have
seen so many, that we have become accustomed to the sight ;
but the reflection that the nations are training for war
awakens at all times a painful sensation. While tlie Latter-
day Saints are laboring to establish a kingdom of peace, the
sword is the watchword among the nations of the earth.

This evening we take steamer for London. President
Smith having received, through the Conference minutes,
official information of his appointment as Trustee-in-trust,
and feeling anxious to fulfil every obligation, he has relin-
quished his projected tour to Russia, which will facilitate our
return. On the route, after crossing the Atlantic, my brother
and I anticipate spending a few days with our relations. On
the 25th is the London Conference, after which, we shall sail
as soon as practicable.

ELIZA E. SNOW.

374 COEEESPONDENCE OF

LETTER XCI

In London — Attend Conference — Russian and Turkish Baths — Visit to Topes-
field— Visit From the Marquis of Sligo.

London, May 24tli, 1873.
Peesident Beigham Young:

Your very welcome and interesting letter of April 28th is
received. Previous to leaving Berlin, in Germany, I wrote to
you our expected programme, dated May 11th.

Elder Erastus Snow and Erastus W. are visiting the con-
ferences in Scandinavia. President Carrington returned from
Vienna to England direct, and is looking after the emigration
business ; will send out a company June 4th, He is now in
London.

President Lorenzo Snow, Eliza, Wm. C. Staines, and
Thomas Jennings and myself have passage engaged on the
Wisconsin, to sail May 28th. Brother Scliettler and wife
were expecting to accompany us, but I learn by letter, that
his visits to the Moravians, in Silesia, attract so much atten-
tion that it is doubtful whether he will get through in time to
do so, though his berths are engaged conditionally.

The Moravians were glad to hear him talk, and would
like to hear him preach, but the Prussian laws prohibit it.
Dr. Sclileiden told me that he did not expect any change that
would amount to an increase in religious liberty sufficient to
enable us to preach in Germany at present.

*
PALESTINE TOUEISTS. 375

We attend conference at the Royal Amphitheatre, Hol-
born, three meetings being advertised for Sunday, 20th.

Brotlier Lorenzo and Eliza will probably stop in Ohio to
visit their brothers, and other kindred. I expect to reach
home within ten days after landing, but will telegraph.

Our voyage across the German Ocean, or North Sea, was
pleasant, considering the very cold weather. We sufiered
very little from sea-sickness.

I have been annoyed with rheumatism in shoulder and
arm, whicli caused me much pain, especially while railroad
riding. Since in London I have taken three vapor baths,
half Turkish, half Russian, and the result is I am much
better.

I visited Topesfield, in Essex, believed to be the parish
from which the Smith family emigrated to Topsfield, Massa-
chusetts. Reverend Charles Goocii agreed to search the
records in his possession as soon as I should furnish him
the data — dates and names — which I am to do by letter after
I get liome. He showed me the safe which he said contained
the parish records to Elizabeth's time, in the chancel of his
church. Upon the wall is a monument of marble, skilfully
wrought, to the memory of "Guil Smyth," who died Decem-
ber ISth, 1633, aged 76. The lengthy inscription is in Latin.
It was a description of this beautiful monument, which I had
received from Dr. Gould, that induced me to visit Essex, and
it may induce me to call at Topsfield, Massachusetts, on my
way home, in search of further information. If I do so, it
will probably take four or five days.

Junius F. Wells has been with me since my arrival, and
has shown me as much of London as my time and strength
would permit me to see.

We all sincerely hope that the efforts you have made to
liberate yourself from burdens may have the desired effect —
to lengthen your days and greatly increase your usefulness.
Nothing shall be wanting on my part, with the help of the

376 CORRESPONDENCE OF

Lord, and without his help we are as nothing. I regard my

very existence as a live man, since I received my endowments

at Nauvoo, as one continued miracle.

Regards to Brother Wells and the brethren in the office.

May the Lord bless you.

GEOEGE A. SMITH.

P. S. — The Marquis of Sligo has just called, and has
arranged to take me and Junius through Parliament, which
is in session, on Monday evening. G. A. S.

LETTER XCII

On the Atlantic Ocean— Hamburg — London Conference— Leave for Liver-
pool— Embark on the " Wisconsin."

Steamer "Wisconsin," June 5th, 1873.
Editor Woman's Exponent :

My Dear Lula: — We are seven days out from Liver-
pool— have had smooth sea, and, thus far, a very prosperous
passage. Our steamer affords the best accommodations of
any we have patronized on our tour — the staterooms are more
commodious and the berths and lounges broader and less
pent up, giving sufficient latitude for an ordinary-sized
person, at least, to move. Captain Freeman is a sociable,
cheerful man, apparently much liked by crew and passengers,
and we are as well satisfied as possible with our home in the
midst of the waters.

I wrote you last at Hamburg in Germany, the 16th of
May; that evening we took steamer for London, where

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 377

we arrived on the evening of tlie 18th and put np at ** Cook's
Boarding House," Great Russel Street, where we stopped on
our outward tour, and experienred quite a home-feeling on
our return, especially when joined, as we were, in the
course of the evening by our excellent mutual young
friend and brother, Elder Junius F. Wells. Here Presi-
dent Smith received a letter from Brother Paul A. Schet-
tler, who parted with us at Berlin to visit his relatives,
and to collect genealogies, expecting to join ns at this
point, stating that his old acquaintances gathered around
him in great numbers, and were so anxious to hear
him converse, that he should require more time than he had
anticipated, unless President Smith particularly counseled
otherwise. The party now consists of President George A.
Smith, my brother Lorenzo Snow, T. W. Jennings and my-
self, being highly favored with the company of Emigration
Agent, W. C. Staines, who is returning from Europe to New
York.

In London we attended Conference with the Saints, on
Sunday, in the Grand Amphitheatre, Holborn, where their
meetings were held and well attended— President Carrington
remarked that the assemblies in the afternoon and evening
were larger than he had seen at any previous Conference.
The Spirit of the Lord was free and powerful and the Saints
rejoiced much on that occasion— testimonies were borne of a
very interesting nature, and it is to be hoped that some seed
fell on good ground— suffice it to say, the Saints had a re-
freshing time. Here I met Sister Mercy E. Thompson, whom
we left in London on our way East.

On the 27th we left for Liverpool, where we experienced
much kindness from President Carrington, who accompanied
us from London, and also from Brother George F. Gibbs, of
the Millennial -Stor office ; and on the 2Sth went on board the
Wisconsin. We now feel that we are on our way home,
although my brother and I anticipate spending a few days

378 COREESPONDENCE OF

in the Eastern States with our relatives. Since abroad, I
have neither had time, nor allowed myself to think very
much of home, except in those seasons of devotion and holy
aspirations, when highest interests, and dearest objects are
ever present with us ! but when I shall be permitted to reach
that point, I feel it will supersede every other in interest.

Woman'' s Exponent, of which T have received a few num-
bers, is to me the best representative of Utah, for in that I
see many familiar names, and repeated testimonies of the
continued energies and steadfastness of many of the mothers
and daughters of Zion, in promoting her welfare, in wliich
I shall be most liappy to rejoice with them, and reunite my
weak efforts in the great common, glorious cause.

We've sailed on inanj'- an ocean,

And entered many a port-
View' d many a Princely Palace,

And many a Lordly Court.

Seen many mosques and churches,

And witness'd service there;
And how unlike the Gospel

Their modes of worship are.

How long shall superstition,

Priestcraft and ign' ranee bind
In chains our fellow beings.

And dwarf their powers of mind ?

By undisputed tokens.

His favor' d people know
That God again has spoken,

From heav'n, to man below.

And that the glorious Gospel

Meets every mortal need ;
While Truth Eternal triumphs

O'er every human creed.

By faith and works vmited,

Through Jesus' blood made free;

How noble, pure, and Godlike,
The lives of Saints should be !

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 379

Safe from the fierce destroyer

That on the water rides,
And "terra lirma" dangers,

The Lord our pathway guides.

From man J' a stranger country.

And many a foreign straud.
We now are sailing homeward,

Towards our native land.

To tliose who liave an eye to see aud a heart to under-
stand, the hand of God has been manifest in dispensing
blessings to us as tourists : From calamities and dangers by
storms at sea, in front and rear, we have escaped ; and without
any interruption worthy of note either by sea or land, for
which we feel truly grateful. We expect but a short stay in
New York, which you will accept as an apology for my
writing as I am doing, trying to make the movements of my
pen correspond with the undulating motion of the ship,
which is not the easiest thing imaginable, as you will perceive

by my tremulous scribbling.

ELIZA K. SNOW.

LETTER XCIII

At St. Louis— Fine Scenery— Visit Relatives.

St. Louis, June 20th, 1873.
Editor Woman's Exponent:

Deae Lula:— When writing you last, which was on the
ocean, I did not anticipate either time or opportunity for com-
munication with you again while on my way home, but, in
consequence of the extreme piety of this infidel age, we
are in this great, live city, detained over Sunday. We
arrived here yesterday morning from Kansas, where we
found our youngest brother, whom we had not seen for more

380 CORRESPONDENCE OF

than twenty years — lie was then a boy, now the father of a
large and promising family, and located on a farm one half
mile square, in a beautiful rolling prairie country, command-
ing a view, both grand and magnificent, extending as far as
the eye can reach. I think I never saw a finer or more pic-
turesque landscape scenery, while the soil is rich and very
productive, situated five miles from Osage Mission, the rail-
road station for that section.

But more about St. Louis. We, ^. e. , my brother Lorenzo
and I, intended leaving last evening, but are detained till 10
to-night, the hour admitted as the close of the Sabbath,
which, despite the sacred rest allotted the railroad trains, is
decidedly a day of bustle, recreation and hilarity. While
writing, my ears are saluted with almost every sound imagin-
able— bands of instrumental music playing in various direc- •
tions — the rumble of street cars, which are loaded to their
utmost capacity, constantly on the track, conveying gay
pleasure-seekers to diflerent points — picnics by land and
picnics by water being a prominent order of the day — groups
of people are promenading the side-walks, while processions
are marching on the streets ; but the railroad trains must
not profane the Sabbath.

When we left New York, my brother and I proceeded
directly to the place, in the State of Ohio, where he was born,
and where both were brought up — the place of our childhood
and our youth — also neighboring towns and counties. I had
been absent thirty-seven years ; my brother had returned
once within that time. Very many of our relatives and
friends have " gone the way of all the earth" since we left,
and everything of remembrance has yielded to the strokes of
the battle-axe of changeful Time.

Our former loved associates

Have mostly passed away ;
While those we knew as children

Are crowned with locks of gray.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 381

We saw Time's varied traces

Were deep on every hand —
Indeed, ujjon the people,

More inark'd than on the land.

The hands that once with lirmncss

Could gi-asp the axe and blade,
Now move witli trembling motion,

By strength of nerve decay' d.

The change in form and feature,

And furrows on the cheek.
Of time's increasing volume.

In plain, round numbers speak,

And thus, as in a mirror's

Reflection, we wore told,
With stereotyp'd impressions.

The fact of growing old.

Those of our relatives and acquaintances who remain,
received us with affectionate cordiality — indeed it was one
continued ovation, from first to last, through the counties of
Portage, Geauga, Cuyahoga and Loraine, where we went:
even children born since we left that country came distances
to see and converse with us, the former friends of their
deceased parents. Having been so long abroad, we felt
anxious to return home ; at the same time, being desirous of
seeing as many of our friends and relatives as possible, we
visited night and day — going from place to place in rapid
succession. I am inclined to think that so much visiting was
never before done in so little time.

We succeeded in gathering many genealogies both of
the dead and the living ; and we think, in many instances,
have renewed friendships — revived and created associations
that will extend into eternity. We feel that God is with us,
and humbly trust that his blessing will attend our efforts.

ELIZA E. SNOW.

382 CORRESPONDENCE OF

[TELEGRAM.]

Salt Lake City, June 12th, 1873.
Geokge a. Smith, Sherman House Chicago.

All well— family and friends— glad of your speedy return.

BRIGHAM YOUNG.

[TELEGRAM.]

Pbesident George A. Smith's Return,

EVANSTON. W. T. June 18th, 1873.
Editob Deseret News :

Presidents Brigham Young and Daniel H, Wells, accompanied by a large
number of ladies and gentlemen, left Salt Lake City at five minutes past six
o'clock this morning for Evanston, to meet President George A. Smith.

They reached Evanston all safe, at twenty minutes past one, and met
President Smith and Thomas W. Jennings.

They were well received amidst warm, and cordial greetings.

The weather is delightful, and the trip has been very pleasurable.

D. W. EVANS,
A. M. MUSSER.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 383

LETTER XCIV.

Home Again — Reception by Friends.

Bbigham City, Jiilj 8th, 1873.
Editor Deseret News:

About 7 p. m. yesterday, President L. Snow, on his
return from the "Holy Land," was met at Brigham
Junction, four miles from here, by Judge Wright, Bishop
Nichols, the Mayor and the City Council, together with a
large company of ladies and gentlemen, with the Brigham
City brass band ; also a representation of the Sunday school,
the Superintendent and associate teachers bearing a magnifi-
cent banner with appropriate mottoes. On arriving at the
station, the Central Pacific train shortly appeared. On Presi-
dent Snow alighting from the cars, welcome strains of music
were poured forth from the brass band. As he approached,
the gentlemen took off their hats and warmly greeted him.
The passengers on the Central Pacific train seemed to be in-
spired with the spirit of the occasion, as they waved hats
and handkerchiefs in concert with those of the reception
party.

After President Snow had shaken hands cordially with
each one of the company, Judge Wright, in behalf of the
citizens, delivered an appropriate address, welcoming him
home, &c. ; to which he briefly responded, returning thanks
for this unexpected honor, and alluded to his tour through
many countries, and journey of some twenty-five thousand
miles without a single accident ; had seen much, and often

384 CORKESPONDENCE OF

liiglily gratified with various scenes and objects of curiosity,
but nothing had impressed his feelings so pleasantly as this
meeting with his Brigham city friends.

The vehicles were presently in motion, under the soul-
stirring music, wliich loudly echoed along the Wasatch
Mountains; the procession proceeded for three quarters of
an hour in the bright moonlight evening, when it reached
President Snow's residence. He was here met by a large
concourse of citizens of all ages, anxious to manifest person-
ally, their earnest feelings of welcome. The ceremonies of
reception were here closed by an appropriate tune from the
brass band, when all dispersed to their homes.

A. CHKISTENSEN.

LETTER XCV

SALUTATION TO THE LADIES OF UTAH.

Salt Lake City, July 14th, 1873.

Beloved Sisters in the Faith of the Gospel of the Son
OF God:

It is impossible for me to express the joy and gratitude
of my heart, in being once more in your midst— in the
gathering place of the honest of heart. While absent, I
have ever felt a degree of pride and thankfulness, that my
home was in Utah— in the Valleys of the Rocky Mountains
of America. Whatever others, in their ignorance, might
imagine, we " know " that in Utah are associated the best and
noblest spirits that are tabernacled in the flesh— that here.

PALESTINE TOURISTS. 385

the highest order of intelligence is obtained, and society-
organized in a purer and more perfect form than anywhere
else on earth.

With what sacred feelings I now realize that I am at
home, surrounded by, and associated with, the Saints of God,
many of whom I have already met with warm, affectionate
greetings, and now avail myself of the medium of the Ex-
poneiit, our excellent household paper, for extending to many
others, with whom opportunities may not soon admit of
personal interviews, my most cordial greeting, accompanied
with love and blessing.

Thanks, my dear Sisters, for your faith and prayers,
throngh which, in a great measure, I attribute the blessings
of God in the wonderful prosperity which, from first to
last, attended the party of tourists of which I have the
honor of having been a member. We have traveled twelve
thousand miles by water, and nearly or quite thirteen
thousand by land, without accident, and without a single
failure in making connection, either with steamer or railroad ;
and are now safely home.

Here let me beg acceptance of my thanks, and ac-
knowledgment of my appreciation of the kind and generous
feelings that prompted arrangements for my reception, which
I very innocently frustrated by a '* quiet arrival."

What an honor, to be associated with those who are co-
workers with God in establishing a government of peace and
purity ! The more I see of the world, the more I realize the
necessity of a more perfect form of government than exists
among the nations of the earth ; and how gratifying it is to
a sympathizer with oppressed humanity, to know that God
has now introduced His own authority, and is establishing
His Kingdom, and that all who will, have the privilege of
assisting in this great work. A work of the most important
interest to the living and the dead— one which confers on
living men and women tlie highest possible responsibilities.

386 COERESPONDENCE OF PALESTINE TOURISTS.

While abroad, I often encountered tlie absurd idea,
which many seem unwilling to relinquish, that here, woman
is held in a state of vassalage — " down-trodden," etc., etc.,
to which I invariably opposed, from the fact that nowliere on
earth has women as large responsibilities, and wields as
much influence as with the Latter-day Saints. You, my
Sisters, who are awake to your callings and your duties, will
readily subscribe to the foregoing ; while perhaps a few, who
liave no other thought of the object of their present exis-
tence, than that they are born to be idle curiosities, or play-
things of human life — to trifle away time in selfish vanity,
€an see no good and noble position for woman to qualify
lierself to fill and make light of the most important labors.

We know that inasmuch as we labor for the Kingdom of
■God, our reward is sure, though all else should perish. Let
xis work on — laboring for *' the things which make for peace,'*
faith, hope, charity and perseverance in the path of perfec-
tion, until we shall be prepared for the presence of holy
beings.

Your Sister in the New and Everlasting Covenant,

ELIZA R. SNOW.

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Full text of "Correspondence of Palestine tourists; comprising a series of letters by George A. Smith, Lorenzo Snow, Paul A. SChettler, and Eliza R. Snow, of Utah"

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